James Elias

Forgot to mention it will come with a slanted F-bracket too for low mode...

Looking for £9,000 UK (approx $11,600 US)

James

Hi -

I'm selling a used Steadicam Shadow-V sled - around 3 years old.

Please note I'm selling the sled only with no monitor.

Included:

- Steadicam Shadow-V Sled (3x HD BNC // V-Lock with 12 & 24 volt)

- Tiffen 3rd VL Battery Mount

- Monitor Rods

- Weight Rods

- Blue whale gimbal tool

- Camera Plate

- Steadicam Thermodyne Hard Case

Looking for £10,000 UK (approx $13,000 US).

Open to offers. UK/EU sales will have VAT.

Any questions / offers, please email me direct: james@jameselias.com

Please don't message me here, I won't see it.

I do have a few more photos that are too big for the forum, please email me for them.

Thanks,

James

Cian -

I'd buy either the replacement parts or the complete Merlin... whatever is cheaper.

If you change camera down the line, or you add something to it - you're probably going to need the extra weights.

As Lisa said, get the proper dovetail... it's the most secure way to use it. Anything else that isn't rigid enough will drive you nuts.

Be careful with second hand original merlin dovetails though as they may not grip the stage as well if well used.

Merlin2 dovetails were much stronger.

Good luck

James

I don't get why they designed the top stage in this way, you can not increase pan inertia with the extra weights (only at the lower spar), although this was one of the best features on the Pilot.

Huh?

The stage weights are there to make a lighter camera, heavier - more above gimbal mass. If you want to adjust pan inertia, you can still do so on the lower sled as you could with the Pilot before it.

My guess would be the arms are the same, just with a different name.

James

Christophe -

Call Robin at Tiffen above or Regis at Cartoni France and ask for a new Pilot wire harness. You won't find this on the price list. This will replace the cable running through the sled. You'll need to solder the top stage connections or send it in to Cartoni/Tiffen for service if you're unsure. I'm sure they will help.

Robin will correct me if my memory is wrong.

Good luck,

James

Hi Damien -

I think you will have to ask Jack or Michelle what the serial number is. My name plate with the serial number on it arrived a little later than the actual arm did.

Hope this helps,

James

Hi Ryan -

What adjustments are you looking to make? It's not a difficult arm to set up.

Jerry talks a little about it here at about 18:00.

If you're after something about the detuning, then Jerry's book explains that.

I might have an old master series manual here somewhere... but from memory, it's not detailed.

Not sure what else you'd need to know?

James

I've no idea what an "S80C" is?

But from your description, it sounds like friction in the gimbal more so than a DB issue...

"... where the host quickly moves it up, down, left and right to show that it's balanced and their camera continues to point straight ahead while staying steady and level... My camera is balanced/level when I do this, but slowly spins so the camera points to the side instead of staying straight ahead"

You're describing the host showing static, not dynamic balance.

James

It's just a bronze bushing... call Tiffen, they will have spares.

I'm pretty sure they're pressed into place with a small amount of loctite.

James

Hi Steve

The Clipper 312 just has a 12v line - no 24v line. Batteries hot off the charger often show more than 12v. The flashing LED on the sled (usually to mean low juice) may mean nothing as this is a user adjusted setting that can be changed. It may be set to flash too soon on your sled.

James

Hi Rupert

I'll take it off your hands, I'll drop you a message.

James

Emilio

Try Robin at Tiffen Pinewood (rthwaites@tiffen.com) - pretty sure the Ultra1 had longer rods for use with the UltraBrite. Sounds like you're using the shorter CRT ones. If the U2 rods are the same then try those, Robin will have them I'm sure.

James

Not that it really matters, but the official specs on the GX-series state a 29" range not 32"

http://www.tiffen.com/steadicam_g70x_arm.html

Regards,

James

Hey Steve

I think the problem is the same as we discussed already, especially as you can feel it on the lift knob. Chase Robin up for the tool if you never had one or try and find one that will fit the nut under the lift control to remove the play. It's also mentioned very briefly in one of the manuals. I'd try and get it before IBC or you may be waiting a while.

Best regards

James

Charles,

Robin most likely has that diagram because I remember seeing it - give him a call. If you're having problems he can certainly explain what you need to do and where.

Regards,

James

It was Peter Robertson

Hi Jose

That washer and clip belong above the bearing you see in the picture. The washer goes on first and the clip above it. Just make sure the pin supporting the bearing hasn't fallen through first. I think there is a small ridge on the pin where it should clip onto.

James

I should also mention that in order to do that, the springs came out... it's possible that if there was any twist, the rebuild might have got rid of it.

Neal,

I had a similar issue and it was the ring attached to the spring terminal (that acts as a stop at either ends of the arms range) that was actually coming into contact with the arm as it boomed. The design is such that if it's twisted slightly it could make contact. Carefully place your finger there when it's making the noise and it will be clear if thats the issue as you'll feel it. I also saw it sticking on mine and thats what made the noise. I shaved the ring shaved down slightly and it hasn't been an issue since.

Regards,

James

Adam,

There should be a metal retaining clip that keeps all of this in place. If its missing you should get a replacement from Tiffen. I guess the pins on the docking stand could catch it and pull it off if he's docking it there.

Regards

James

Hi Justin,

Optical Support in the UK have made longer PRO gimbal handles - www.opticalsupport.com - give them a call or email, they may have one.

Regards

James

Kevin - call Tiffen and ask for a Flyer dovetail plate. The Zephyr and Clipper dovetails are the same size but will not work as they lack the rack needed to engage with the fore/aft screw on the stage.

A Flyer plate will work.

Best

James

Hi Elliot,

The Pilot was designed to be docked under the stage and, from memory, the pins on the bracket shouldn't scratch anything under the stage. It's mentioned in the manual.

Best,

James

There are actually two Allen screws under the stage that will reduce the stiffness on that side/side... Or .... Yea...

Don't quote me on it, but I think the SK and ProVid gimbals were the same anyway.