Jason Torbitt

You mean the AB 2 pin power tap on/near the camera handle, the one used to power the onboard light? Should be fine using that, I've run a BFD and a video transmitter off one in the past. Just avoid the 4-pin Hirose at the back of the camera like the plague, don't power anything off that! Blows the fuse easily.

If you need the AB- XLR 4-pin cable take a look here or if you don't fancy spending, I have one you can borrow, I'll post it down to you...

The Host Broadcaster is apparently from Switzerland - HBS (Host Broadcasting Services). One of their directors has been quoted as saying no wireless camera systems will be used because "they are not yet 100-percent reliable"

We're only a few days in, but the guys have been doing some great work, really enjoyable to watch and appreciate such good work, in the heat, with Triax to contend with too, which has its limitations. Who's operating over there? Does anyone know? I know Chris McGuire did the last World Cup, are you there again Chris? If only I had a nice HD television to enjoy it in...There's some nice Jib work taking place behind the goals too, those guys (looks like they're using the ABC 9m jibs again) and of course the Steadicam ops have to be quick off the mark to keep pace with the action and offer a well composed, 'useable' shot for the director.

It would be nice to see some pictures afterwards and read what you guys made of it all. It's unfortunate that it isn't a wireless camera job, the technology has arrived for rackable wireless HD, but clearly as Ant says they're playing ball with the law! I thought another reason for the use of triax also gives the guys in the truck ultimate control over how far the rigs can move, and the area of the pitch they're restricted to. And I suppose they also use the rigs well down the tunnel before the players come onto the pitch, so no possibility of signal dropout if the rigs are cabled as opposed to wireless.

As a point aside, I've also noticed at least two ARRI 35mm cameras filming most matches, from the touchlines, on sticks. Impossible to catch the actual camera type from the fleeting glimpses you occasionally get, but interesting to see. Stand out like anything alongside the ENG guys and stills photographers!

Great work, looking forward to much more of the same!

Congratulations Mikko

Lovely sled, and that G50 arm looks great.

I can't help with the tracking vehicle speed part of your question, having no experience with that - but I do know that racehorses (flat) can get to around 40mph, if not more, which may not sound that fast, but is when you have to keep pace with them. It may also be uncomfortable if you are filming at a racetrack, as the tracking vehicle may not have a tarmac road, it may be grass which = bumps (lots of). If it's a canter rather than race pace then you will stand a greater chance on Steadicam on a Quad perhaps.

The main issue with horses is that they are taller than you expect. The gyrostabilised Wescam Channel 4 over here use is mounted on top of a Range Rover, and is just the correct height to get those shots of the horse and jockey in action - much lower down wouldn't be as easy or look as good.

Just a few thoughts...

I'm on A/B batteries, a mix of ProPacs and Hytrons, and a Trimpac for accessories.

I have a Quad and a Dual 2702 charger. Yes, follow their reccommendation - leave the batteries on the charger when not in use, unless you have no work for a month or two, in which case fully discharge them and store them in your flightcase. Don't store them in cases charged up and allow them to discharge themselves over time.

I'd advise you to sell your dual charger and buy an interactive charger, with discharge module. Then you can analyse your batteries and maintain them fully, and check on voltage/charge status/battery condition etc etc. Martyn Sly-Jex at Anton Bauer gave me a lot of good advice, info and pointers about their batteries -

msly-jex@antonbauer.com

For anyone interested, Tiffen have discontinued manufacturing J7s. (they apparently still sell the jumper cables though for the universal model)

Numbers 3 and 9 have a definate appeal for me...

Yes! That's my favourite shot of the demos too! Its a good illustration of how the AR should be used, as a tool to get particular angles and sequences (that may not always have been possible beforehand). The AR demo DVD is a good watch - Chris does some great shots with it.

I would second Afton's comments - I have the Jerry Hill 2 piece arm cover, which works wonderfully, and also sled covers from Camera Essentials, which I am also extremely happy with. As I said in another thread, the clear plastic refuse sacks are the way to go to protect the camera and parts of the sled if you feel you need it. It is also worth thinking about protection when you're docked - I have some extra large clear plastic rubbish bags that I just put upside down over the entire camera and rig when it's docked on the stand, useful. (and cheap/free, even better!)

Tiffen also make a full sled cover with Steadicam logo on it.

I use clear plastic industrial sized refuse sacks, just stick one upside down over the rig. Covers everything nicely and its waterproof. Also as you can see through it, it makes it obvious that there's a lot of expensive gear docked onto the stand, to any unsuspecting or unthinking people on set.

I use the Jerry Hill arm cover and the Camera Essentials sled covers too.

Thankyou to Tim and the moderators Erwin, Eric and Alec for all your efforts and time on the forum. It is a great resource, and such a wealth of knowledge and expertise that we can all help get better. It's good that all those of us who are involved in our craft can come here for help, advice and great discussion.

The real name thing is excellent too.

Wow

How did this happen? What arm is the spring from? Was the arm under a heavier load than reccommended max, did it bottom out suddenly or anything? Or did it just occur in normal operating use?

Hope there was no other damage to your rig or camera.

Thanks Afton

Good to hear your sled is sorted now. I agree, spending the money may be a nightmare but ultimately worth it, as you say having a sled in spot-on condition is priceless. It's good that you only had the one post replaced too - useful info.

My mark is a wear mark, about 1 inch across, where the top couple of layers of carbon fibre have worn away. I've bonded it for the shorter term, thanks to Robin at Tiffen for the good advice, and I'm happy with it. But replacement of the post in the long term is the solution.

Thanks

Jason

Hi Afton

How did you get on with your post replacement? I'm looking at having the post on my Master Series replaced within a year due to a small wear mark in the carbon fibre, where it looks as if gimbal or docking ring pinching has occurred in the past.

Has anyone had their Master post replaced, and if so, who with? Obviously Tiffen and MK-V spring to mind straight away.

Thanks

Jason

I have been reading much about this, both in literature from BECTU and opinions of GTC members... I will be intrigued to see how this develops.

Shocking and worrying at the same time.

With you all the way, Thomas - I find £200 per day student jobs can be useful for the reel and some quick cash - that arts Uni in Surrey is a good University to get plenty of that sort of work from. I've made plenty of trips down there...Normally on S16 too which makes things more interesting.

Most are organised, some are utterly useless. I recall being up on set at 5am once and not working until 1pm. Another time I was booked for a weekend, but I didn't do a single shot until the Saturday night. Sometimes they sound so organised on the phone too...its when you turn up and you get 'that feeling'...you know how it goes. Carnage all around while you enjoy the obligatory polystyrene cup of tea in the makeup department.

Still, good learning experiences on a personal level and sometimes a technical level. And not forgetting the pay, always useful.

Hi Lars,

This is the gear you're looking for...

Go to Maplin Electronics and search for 'Silicone Grease / PTFE'. Product code N71AN, it's the weapon of choice. Silicone spray keeps the sound department happy!

Cheers

Jason

Hi Sven

I have Rob's cage and it takes the DVX-100 with no problems, I've used it with a DVX countless times

A worthwhile purchase, I couldn't do without it. Great design too.

Gus is talking about the Boland LCD monitor, which MK-V sells to go with their rigs / AR. I think it does HD-SDI.

Thanks Robin

I was going to go down the nuts & bolts route, thinking ahead ready for next time I have to do it! Much easier too. I will also look into the metal plate idea - nice. I have also bought some thin rubber / silicone sheeting which I intend to cut to shape and use to further cushion the lower metal plate against the plastic.

Hi Guido

Tiffen sells these plastic waistbands as replacements, velcro sewn on already. p/n 250-7810. Cost me £65, so around $120. But as you'll have gathered, you need to swap the plastic guides on either sides from the broken waistband to the new one, which is more difficult as it's riveted on.

Although I've heard that the usual stress point is the four screws which connect the waistband with the metal plate (possibly accentuated / caused by stress from the cross back straps, if they're used), mine has cracked at one side, where nuts from the ratchet strap fastenings have slowly eroded a hole in the plastic, which has formed a crack top to bottom. Doesn't affect operating or comfort, I've found gaffer tape is a good fix for the short term. It will be nice when I have it finished.

Hello everyone,

I've had a replacement plastic waistband for my MS vest for a while now, as the one on my vest is cracked at one side. I'm going to sit down and get it done, as I have the weekend to myself. I was just wandering if anyone else reading in had done this before or had any tips.

I need to drill into it for the 4 holes which attach it to the bottom of the chest spar, no problems there, but the problem comes with the two plastic guides on either side of the waistband, which hold the lower belts / ratchet strap assemblies in place. These plastic parts are riveted onto the waistband. What's the best way to get these rivets out? Drill through them with a smaller sized drill bit?

While I'm on it, if anyone has any spare rear tie-down straps they're not using, please send me an email, and I'll take them.

Thanks

Jason "up to the challenge" Torbitt

A useful invention, would be excellent for ENG applications...however I'm less convinced about the Steadicam aspect of it, as most such shots are static and it would therefore render the Steadicam useless (and cause slow destruction of the operator, as he holds a static shot for minutes on end...

The list price for it is still $795. It doesn't visibly look like an attractive option for low mode, you would get a much more secure clamping by using Brant Fagan's VLMB or the MK-V design.

Hi,

Yes I was aware that PAG make batteries for v-mount, AB and of course their own PAG mount. You can also buy adaptor battery plates that clip onto your existing plate, to convert from AB to PAL or v-lock etc etc.

For anyone interested, Martyn at A/B rung me before I even had a chance to ring him - great service. The dead battery is on its way to A/B for evaluation and I'm picking up a replacement Hytron.

If anyone is interested in recelling in the UK, try www.westgatepower.com , I've also collected some phone numbers for others, if anyone is interested send me a PM or email.