Michael Wilson

Switronix is about to release this. Check it out.

 

Here is a test of it from a while back.

 

Models vary in price from $2700 to $3500 somewhere around there. It seems like a decent product but that 150 foot range seems a little weak to me. Could get annoying at times.

 

Can any high end hd wireless users chime in and throw their first take of this product out there?

Something is probably loose on your sled. Check every connection between components. Almost looks like electronic camera stabilization. Try stomping around to see if there is vibration making its way to the sled.

Garrett or anyone in the know,

 

Why did some arms work fine and others not? I took the workshop and loved the the g series arms. A year later I ordered the G50 and it bounced. Got a loaner while mine was being looked at and it bounced as well. Got mine back and it bounced. So I decided to go with a different arm.

 

I don't remember this bounce in the arms at the workshop. I believe Jerry said it happened later in production. Why would one arm have stiction that is made of the same parts but a few years apart?

Im in Missouri but will be working in Austin.

I have a project coming up and I'd like to rent a unit. I'd like to rent a cheaper consumer that has been modded. If you have a lead or quote feel free to post or PM me.

More importantly, to Rob's question, yes, the stiction issue is gone.

 

I wish that the stiction issue would have actually been acknowledged by Tiffen when it was happening to people with the normal G series arms. I lost a lot of sleep over that bouncing arm. I hope some people at tiffen did too.

This is very similar to a nightmare I had the other night, except I was naked at the time.

I have ab batts and charger and ab to vmount adapter plates. Can I put those plates on my charger and charge the vmounts with my ab charger?

I'll keep these two generous offers in mind.

 

I was looking a little closer at the arm and how it moves. One little thing I did notice, could be nothing, is the gimbal arm section comes to a stop before it hits the rubber bumpers.

I can't seem to tune the arm up perfectly. The arm section closest to the gimbal pretty much remains horizontal until the other section (closest to my body) gets close to its vertical limit. I am currently using two blacks throughout the entire arm. I have interchanged all of my 4 black springs and the sections still don't follow one another as they should. I spent a few hours today playing with tension in each bone and can't seem to get it figured out. I tried 4 blues and the arm sections seemed to follow each other nicely. With all this in mind the arm still booms smoothly and isolates my movements perfectly. I'm just missing a bit of finesse with the bones moving together and not having one hit its bumpers while the other still has a bit to go.

 

I'm also curious if anyone has ever had to replace or purchase another spring after one went down or wore out?

First off there is no ride feature. That is exclusive to the tiffen g series arms. You can only adjust the tension of the springs for load or lift. You adjust the lift by turning a knob on each section of the arm. Its tool less but not terribly easy to adjust. A minor annoyance though. I usually had my AC help me because it takes a lot of turns of the knobs sometimes.

 

From my experience with the arm it booms nicely until you hit the end of travel at which point it locks up. You can see in this video at :48 how the arm flops around when extended all the way.

I would just not go that low or high with it because that kind of movement would show up in the camera.

 

I had the 11-44lb spring package and never touched, serviced or opened up the arm. It never failed or acted funny on me. One thing that is tricky is flipping the socket block to go to the regular operating side. They have a tool for this but it still took quite some time.

 

I'm pretty sure I would choose this arm over any other arm besides the PRO arm. Probably. It got the job done and has no friction. Also unlike the 3a style arms it reacts pretty much the same with lighter loads.

 

This has been my experience with the arm and you should experience the arm for yourself and come up with your own judgment. Its a very personal thing and maybe I just got used to this arm over the two years I worked with it. Its a great arm though.

For me this was a great arm. It has no friction in it at all. It booms nicely but gets a little sloppy at the ends of travel. You have a lot of room before this happens though. For the price you can't beat it.

 

Let me know if you have any specific questions that I can answer.

So a few pages back there were some posts about people being afraid of posting things on the forum and not being able to receive service afterwards. I understand where you are coming from but I think there might be something else to it as well. Could it be that people are afraid of the diminishing value of their rig's resale value?

That is awesome. Good work.

In the unlikely event you are looking to sell I'm ready to buy

 

Mike

 

Loosecreek@gmail.com

Anybody have one available for rent?

 

Loosecreek@gmail.com

5736940986

 

Thanks,

Mike

Will, let me know about that rebuilding and the mods. If I'll like your design I will buy one from you ;-)

 

 

 

Look who's come crawling back.

 

just kidding this is gonna be a pretty sweet device

Awesome update Will.

 

I'm giving up on it now and perhaps will revisit in the future. I have an indie starting next week and I think it will cause more headaches than I would like. But it does have potential.

 

In the short term, another solution would be to take a hdmi extender via cat5 ethernet cable and put that with the receiver closer to the transmitter and run a 25-50 foot run of cat5 to video village.

 

Good luck Will and keep us posted.

This device can most definitely be moved and still produce a stable picture. I agree it is not a pro solution but when this is less than ten percent the cost of the industry standard it is pretty attractive. If I were outdoors I would feel confident about its operation but inside with walls it will create tons of headaches.

I don't think you can switch between 720p and 1080p or i manually. It will decide that for you. Wide mode is for being outside of the same room as the monitor. We hooked up the RED and just walked it around the house going from room to room. Can you think of anyway to boost the signal or get some sort of repeater going?

I tested this thing out today. It works great for line of sight but not indoors. It can go through two walls and thats it. The moment you go through the threshold of another room the signal drops off. Would work great if you have a directors monitor and they follow you but not for video village in my case. I'm working in a huge mansion on this next project and it would be a huge headache.

This probably won't be much help but I have avoided those ports for powering anything because of what people have said about them being pretty flaky and not actually being able to power much of anything.

Cool. Keep me posted on your progress. I'm kind of in a time crunch so I'll probably just call terry west and see what he can do. I'm no good at electrical stuff.

I'm thinking about purchasing the brite view wireless hdmi system. It is a consumer product with a dc out for power. Can anyone make me a cable so I can power this off the sled or the red camera aux port? Or point me in the direction to who could do this.

 

thanks

http://www.brite-view.com/air_synchd.php

The broken english is a dead giveaway. Nothing is free out there. Not in this federation anyway. Better get back to my office pursuits. I pleasurably await your replies.