Mark Schlicher
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Posts posted by Mark Schlicher
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Just a thought...have you contacted Tiffen? They should be able to sell you that part. I think it may be tough finding a used one.
Also, the plate looks pretty easy to modify...buy a generic V-lock camera plate, make the connections and screw it together. I'm not familiar with the AA version, so you may need to fashion a thin aluminum plate to go between the new battery plate and the tubular bracket. If you don't feel comfortable with DIY, contact a local cable builder or broadcast TV engineer, who should be able to do the job easily. You might save some money that way.
HI.. If you have the mount for V-lock battery mount for the steadicam Pilot. Please let me know... or a trade for my AA-battery mount can be work as well.
thanks
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Adam,
Having an assistant pulling focus is by far the preferred way to work. The G-zoom (and the similar-in-function Stanton zoom/focus controller) is really designed for live broadcast work, where you are using broadcast lenses with internal zoom motors and a standard plug-in interface. For focusing, you still need to add a focus motor and control box (see "G-focus" on the G-zoom website.) So the cost goes up substantially.
More importantly, the focus knob is a small knob on the underside of the G-zoom. The rocker is for zooming. while it is fairly easy to zoom smoothly while shooting (with a compatible lens, of course), it's nearly impossible to pull focus accurately during a shot. The focus function is mainly useful for resetting focus in between shots. It's no substitute for having a wireless setup and focus puller for film-style shoots.
There's a fair amount of info in the forum archives on the G-zoom, you should do a search if you haven't already.
Specific cameras such as the Panasonic HPX-170 have dedicated zoom/focus/iris controllers (Varizoom) that can be mounted on the gimbal but, unfortunately, there are not any inexpensive gimbal-mounted focus systems that are "universal". For the low end jobs you either rent, or go without focus control and design your shots around the inability to focus during the shot.
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With the F3, by the time you add a lens, mattebox, baseplate and rods, follow focus, etc. you can get comfortably into the Zephyr's payload range. I've flown the F3 in that configuration with good success. That said, a 6 pound weight wouldn't hurt.
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Bump-
Make me an offer on any or all of these cables.
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Hi, Will,
I understand your points and I don't necessarily disagree that the cable is pricey and maybe out of line if you already own the skills and soldering tools, and know just what you need and where to source the parts.
But the "real" price of DIY goes up when you attach a dollar value to your time, including the time to research and source what you need via online or dragging yourself out to the ol' Radio Shack, paying tax and/or shipping on top of the prices quoted above, etc. Plus the cost of a soldering iron if you don't already have one.
My guess, though I haven't formally priced it, is that the cable would probably cost about $80-$100 to have a cable builder make a proper custom version. (Parts plus an hour's labor plus shipping).
So, though the Switronix may not be the cheapest or "best" option, it's still a viable choice, depending on your point of view...
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Then there's the value of one's time. I spent a lot of time researching the right voltage regulators and project boxes, etc. I saved a bit of money but wish I'd just bought the Switronix cable. It's no more expensive than many other custom cables...
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Someone on the forum (sorry I can't remember who) did fabricate a yoke for his 6.5" Marshall last year, and I think sold a few, but it would undoubtably have to be adapted to mount on a Flyer.
In my opinion the Flyer LE is best-matched to the Marshall 7" (around $1000) or Marshall 6.5" (if daylight viewability is the most important criteria.) Marshall makes an 800nit version of the 7" that is quite good, but not as good as the 6.5 transflective in daylight.
Weight is an issue for sure.
Also, the Marshalls are "choose one" when it comes to HDMI vs. HD-SDI, when last I checked. So whichever you choose, you will have to have a converter such as a Decimator 2, and power arrangements.
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When I had a Flyer, I required a compact vest because of my height and build. My Zephyr vest is much more adjustable and the regular Zephyr vest can be adjusted to fit me fine.
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Nice stout Terry West Red One/Red MX power cable for Tiffen sleds with small 3-pin power lemo. Zephyr, Archer2, Flyer.
Like new.
$150 ground-shipped to lower 48.
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Selling some cables for Bartech BFD:
Two Panavision power/run cables (24-12V voltage regulated) @ $250 ea ($390 new)
Two Aaton run cables $80 ea ($140 new)
Two Arri 12V (Fischer 11 pin) power/run cables $150 ea ($280 new)
In great condition, all built with Mogami 2893. Ground shipping to USA included.
PM me or email @mark at sunporchmedia dot com.
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John Perry-Tiffen/PRO
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FYI the latest firmware is 5.4. I'm not sure when the Dionic HC support was added, I think it may have been with 5.1. Not sure when standard Dionics were added to the firmware.
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I got a glimpse of John Perry shooting music performances during the pregame show.
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Brent,
Add a dogbone, yes. Ditch the risers, yes. No rubber washers. In fact, ditch the extra barbell weight, I'm not sure how it's attached but it looks like it can't be at all rigid.
Run the sled at 10lbs payload if that's what you need to do to eliminate all the risers and , there's no magic to 15 other than the increased inertia.
Best,
Mark
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That's not normal.
Particularly check the connection right under the camera stage, at the top of the post. Make sure the hex nut is snugged up tight.
It looks to me like the vibration or flex is coming from the camera stage. How is your camera connected to the weight plate? How is the weight plate connected to the sled's dovetail plate? A few photos of your camera setup would be helpful.
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Ron, Alan is right about Terry's price.
If you can get the Epic connector in small quantities, that is a recent development, I believe.
I own cables from Terry, and they are flawless.
I've also gotten some cables from Chris at East Coast Cables. Great work. Doesn't list an Epic connector on his website, so it may be worth a call. I've had to wait a little longer for my cables from Chris (not an unreasonable amount of time, just not the overnight service that Terry is so rightly famous for!).
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The mini arm was...not good. It WILL hold you back as you return to operating. Today's lightweight Tiffen rigs are MUCH better.
The mini as you may know, was replaced by the original Flyer, and then by the Flyer LE, and finally by the Scout and Zephyr.
The mini's sled was very similar to the original Flyer sled, but with a different gimbal clamp and handle.
The mini's vest is essentially the Flyer (original)vest, but the Flyer vest was updated with a socket block that is similar to (but smaller than) big rig socket blocks.
If you tried to buy Flyer parts to upgrade your mini you may not be able to buy them, and if you could, the price I bet would be more than buying a used Flyer.
For $4000 or so you can find a used first gen Flyer, which will be a significant upgrade for you and very sufficient for most DSLR setups. Some of your mini parts (vest parts and dovetail plate mainly) will be compatible and you could keep as backups.
For a little more you could get a used Flyer LE or a new Scout. Heavier payload (20lb) and newer technology--carbon fiber extendable post, primarily. The scout is an even-more-improved sled with essentially the same vest and arm as the Flyer LE. None of the parts of either of these rigs (except the camera dovetail and maybe one or two parts from the vest) will be interchangable with the mini.
The Zephyr can be thought of as a bulked-up Flyer LE or Scout with an improved bottom spar, 25 lb payload, and HD upgradability built-in.
You could buy a Pilot for less but will be even more limited on payload, and the vest is a real step backwards.
Hope this helps...
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The edit button goes away after a short time (a couple of days?).
Don't worry about it...
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I never heard back from Howard after stating to him that I prefer not to send money in advance for an item that is not in stock, but to please let me know when they were in stock. Followed up a couple months later and still no reply.
I appreciate the field reports from satisfied users, and am still interested in buying a plate secondhand.
If there are specific design issues I should be concerned about (rigidity, points of failure), I would certainly like that information also, from whoever would like to share it.
As I stated before, I'm also interested in alternatives (I think I've seen pretty much all of them). Weight is a primary consideration, as is ability to mount on the Zephyr dovetail. Quick release is not a priority.
PM if you'd prefer. Thanks.
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Definitely not working properly. Call Tiffen ASAP.
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Also you can try Chris Konash at eastcoastcables.com. He also does excellent work and may have the Epic connectors in stock.
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The Epic power connectors are hard to get, as they are Red proprietary.
Terry West generally has them, so he can make the custom cable you need.
As for distributing the masses, the Arri dovetail works well, too.
WTB: Steadicam Pilot VL mount
in Steadicam Marketplace - Wanted
Posted
That is a lot for just a mount. I couldn't find it on Tiffen's website, but maybe I missed it. I recommend that you doublecheck with Tiffen to make sure. They may be able to sell just the component parts you need to add the the bracketry that you have.