Mark Schlicher
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Posts posted by Mark Schlicher
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Aww, Dave, the Flyer monitor's not that bad!
True, the panel is only 234 pixels horizontally, but most SD LCD monitors in the past have been no better.
Actually, without getting too much into speculation, it's worth pointing out that the Flyer and Archer monitors look identical (when you take the Archer monitor out of its outer casing), but the Archer monitor is 700 nits compared to the Flyer monitor's 500 nits. I don't know the Glidecam monitor's specs, so it may be different internally as well. I don't know how big a grain of salt to attach to the 400 nit language in the manual for the "new" SD Zephyr monitor. Could be a dimmer panel or just a more conservative claim of the spec.
I think I received the same Zephyr SD monitor that you did, and I liked my old Flyer monitor much better. In my opinion the original Zephyr SD monitor dipped below acceptability, even for a "budget" rig. The Flyer monitor, I would argue, is not so bad.
The larger point is that the Zephyr really comes alive when you drop a nice 6.5 transflective or 7" Marshall monitor on it. Better weight distribution, resolution, HD option, better color...and better daylight viewability.
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Looks like you got a monitor that's a relative of the Flyer monitor. The published nits are only slightly lower that the Flyer's advertised 500nits. Everything else looks the same, spec-wise.
That's a good thing, it's a better monitor than what was originally shipped with the Zephyr, and will be a decent backup monitor when you upgrade to HD.
I'm sure there's a flip/mirror function on that monitor, but I can't remember how to access it in the menus. I think you toggle up/down in the menu.
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??
Who's comments are you calling "pretty dumb"? Do you understand the hostile and insulting tone you are conveying?
And what exactly is your point about the LE for RED, and the Pilot?
what your saying is blasphemy.... i dont even know where to begin.
flyerLE for RED is 15 k - pilot is around 5000 if you actually want to use it...
what you said makes no sense and is pretty dumb.
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Do you have an SD or HD Zephyr? Post a pic of your monitor, I'm curious whether they changed monitors, and to what....
I replaced my SD monitor with a 7" Marshall 800nit HD-SDI unit. Quite happy with it, I did have to have a custom power/video cable made but that wasn't a big deal. Terry West made me one.
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The Flyer LE can be a challenge for power but some things can be done.
1. This is an LE (carbon fiber extendable post, right?) If so, it has a 3-pin lemo, not two.
2. To power accessories on the top camera stage, you need a lemo-to-P-tap multi. This is a custom cable that is created from the regular p-tap multi you've linked to. Terry West (search for his name on the forum) can make one up for you.
3. Next you need that Switronix cable, which will connect to your camera and correctly convert the voltage. It's got P-tap on one end so you're good to go with the cable above.
4. For your Hofo you may need to create another custom power cable that can connect to your p-tap multi.
Good luck, hope this helps.
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Looks like they had you on fairly long lenses a lot of the time, too.
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Standard def Zephyr $9k. HD version $13k but better to spend $9k and upgrade the monitor yourself (Tiffen is using a Marshall on the HD Zephyr, you can get it for $900 plus a hundred or so for a cable. Price doesn't include batteries...you could add $2-3k for a battery system (or less if using generics.) So you could say $15k for an HD kit.
As for junction boxes, the Zephyr currently ships with two 3pin lemos on the topstage for power, enough for camera power and BFD. It's pre-wired to allow an additional lemo for power, and the manual seems to imply that they will begin shipping them that way.
Down below, there's a dedicated composite/power hirose cable for monitor, and two 3pin lemos for power (one is plugged into the battery so only one is open.) On the AB version you have a Powertap, too.
I figure most broadcast HD cameras are north of $30K, some substantially higher, depending on the lens. Yes, REDs can get heavy and some configurations are definitely not going to work. But with a prime, clip-on mattebox, CF card for media, and strip off unused bracktry it's a decent platform for RED.
So this $15k rig can reasonably fly $30-50k+ camera packages. It also flies cameras that fit your theory more closely: the AF100, F3.
I think the Zephyr is just an outlier. Your theory fits Pilot, Scout, Archer, and above very well.
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The Zephyr skews this, too. Flies just about any broadcast camera and a wide range of RED configurations up to 24lbs on an under-10K rig.
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Congratulations!
I wouldn't worry about the shorty power cable. Just put your camera on a Manfrotto quick release and buy a few extra batteries to directly power the camera. Any power cable will have to have a power converter in it anyway to drop down to the 7 volts the camera wants, and that's more expensive than an extra battery or two. The only reason to power from the sled would be to save weight, which you don't need to do with a DSLR!
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I stumbled on a making-of video for the Rascal Flatts "Easy" music video. Don't know who the operator is, but he's sporting a Klassen harness an and AR. Lots of face time in the making-of video. Kudos for the nice work in the video. Who is the operator?
Here's the video itself:
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Am I the only Zephyr owner? Well actually I know of two others. Come on, don't be shy.
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Correct. pretty much impossible to find a stabilizer (Steadicam or other) for that kind of money.
You need a handheld stabilizer. Not much info here about the choices, since this forum is primarily for professional operators who make a living at it, and who use higher-end systems.
If you just want to experiment and practice for a hobby, you may be satisfied with the results of some of the junk that is sold on ebay. Otherwise you will be needing to spend hundreds more for something you will continue to be happy with once your skill increases.
Finally, it's a skill that takes a lot of practice, unlike a dolly or slider, which can be mastered quickly. Be prepared for weeks or months of practice and study.
Try DVXUser.com, DVInfo.net, and cinema5D.com. Those forums are much more oriented to the kinds of rig you are looking for.
By the way, you need to change your screen name. Real names only here....
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Bumping this thread in case some Zephyr owners who are infrequent forum visiters missed it the first time.
I know there are not a lot of these systems in the wild yet, but would like to build a community of Zephyr owners to share experiences, problems, solutions that relate to the specific qualities of this rig.
If you don't want to make a public post, feel free to PM me.
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Fair enough, Alex. As someone who just finished a lot of my own research on batteries, I can attest that no one on the forum has commented on Hired Gun, as far as I know.
The Hired Gun Video batteries seem to be a rebranded generic battery, judging by the language on their website.
Search for battery threads and you'll find some who won't touch anything less than Anton Bauer or IDX, some who have been happy with generics or recells, and some who have tried recells or generics and felt burned. Many different opinions and experiences. You may not get something definitive.
Generics abound, some better quality than others. Several folks have favorably mentioned Global Media Pro. Other than that it's not easy getting specs or detailed information.
My suggestion is to call Hired Gun directly and ask for the names of satisfied clients. If they're willing to provide some, call or email those clients and ask for their candid opinions.
As for the big picture, Janice's response is wise and worth keeping in mind and you go forward. The information that is generously shared here was hard-won. You, like me and other relative newbies, are asking for the answers from the generation of operators who had to invent the answers out of thin air.
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Yes, this is their 24V implementation for Zephyr. The Zephyr power connectors are all pre-wired for 12/24V and all tied together. They are small-diameter 3-pin Lemos (EGG-0B-303), except for the 12V for monitor which is one of the signals on a 6pin Hirose.
The Zephyr sled base has an integrated dovetail that is the same width as their camera dovetail plate. The battery hanger, as you see, has a dovetail grabber that allows some fore and aft adjustment. Plug it in to the empty power connector and it ties into the sled power. 12V mode parallels the batteries for higher current draw and longer runtimes.
They call it the "Zephyr 12/24 adapter plate." $650. Item code for Anton version: 807-7350-02.
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Alex,
The reason you are not getting the answers you want re: monitors is because the monitor you want doesn't exist at that price point.
It's as plain as that. Embrace it.
You could budget $1000, $2000, $3000, $4000. Compromises at each level. What's most important? What can you give up? What sled does it match up with? Start low-budget and repurpose that monitor when you upgrade? Or buy the top of the line right away? These are questions only you can answer for yourself. Plug in a budget number, keep researching and take that workshop. In 6 months there may be new options that change the discussion. For now it's just a number.
At $1000 the current line of Marshall 7" are solid and versatile.
At $2000 the Marshall 6.5 transflective offers daylight viewability on a budget, with other compromises.
Sounds like you already have a handle on the Transvideo offerings.
Other monitors have been discussed on various threads.
If you want a "no compromise" LCD monitor, right now Cinetronics is the only game in town.
The specs are available, the limitations and strengths of each have been discussed. It's up to you now. Good luck.
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True about underscan....
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Here you go! Weight right at one pound. Nice, solid aluminum construction. Unlabeled 12/24V switch, "I" is 12v, "II" is 24v. I forgot to snap a pic of the front of the box but there is a 3pin 12/24 lemo (same as the others on the sled) on the front.
Note my sled is v-mount with AB adapter and the aux hanger is AB mount. So my rear battery rides a little lower than it would on an AB sled, relative to the aux hanger.
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Understood.
What I want to communicate is this:
1. The Flyer monitor is already one of the better standard def monitors you can get. Unless you're looking for some specific capability that the monitor lacks, it's actually an excellent monitor for the Flyer.
2. If you upgrade to an HD monitor you will either end up running in standard def mode anyway, or running video outside your post, or rewiring your sled.
3. Running video outside the post is not that big a problem if you secure the cables properly.
4. If I were in your shoes, I'd either leave it alone, or have the sled competently rewired for HD by someone like Terry West.
Best,
Mark
As for running video outside the post, that's considered a no-no but if done right is not such a big deal. Run a taut video cable from the front of the camera stage under the lens, down to the top center of the monitor. Secure with tape, velcro, twist-ties, whatever to keep them from flopping around.
Oh No! I just meant run a power cable from the battery to the monitor.
Mark, thank you. Great information. Time to start saving up.
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Shouting out to other forum members with Zephyr rigs...
Who's out there? How's the rig working for you? What kind of work are you doing with it? What cameras have you flown and what do you hope to fly? What challenges are you seeing and how are you handling them? What do you like best about it? Is it your first rig or an upgrade...what did you upgrade from? What are your favorite mods or upgrades you've done?
I'll go first...I'm in the process outfitting mine for live TV and music video. Done a couple of commercials with it and happy with its performance.
Flying/planning to fly: most HD video camcorders and studio cameras (Sony 1500, etc.). DSLR's, a variety of RED Epic and RED One configurations. Planning to see if I can find an Alexa setup within the Zephyr range...it seems possible by the numbers...
Biggest challenges: weight. Most video cameras will work but I shot with a XDCam 800 with a Telecast copperhead fiber setup and maxed the arm. The vest was uncomfortable at that weight, too. Mounting AKS...the Zephyr design is challenging for attaching things, but I'm experimenting with workarounds.
Favorite accessories: I got a G-zoom for gimbal zoom/focus. Love it. Lightweight (see above), ergonomic, can control the focus on some video lenses. Got a BFD and Heden motor, which can be controlled by the G-zoom, too. I also just took delivery on Tiffen's aux battery hanger: for hotswap, improved weight distribution, increased load and runtime. Marshall's high-bright 7" monitor with AB plate on the back. I also have a 6 lb weight plate from Janice Arthur that allows me to fly lighter cameras such as DSLR's, Sony EX, Panny HVX200/HPX170, etc.
I upgraded from a Flyer so I'm already used to a light touch. Everything about the Zephyr has a familiar-but-upgraded feel, with bigger gimbal diameter, smoother and more inertial control.
Working on building a tally remote, return monitor, and low-budget HD wireless video assist link. Still working out my "borrow-to-buy" ratio on cables and jumpers.
So, that's a quick rundown. Who's next?
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Okay...I went down this path of thinking myself when I had my Flyer...
I'm not sure what the connector is, I think its a variation of an 8 pin din conncector. It is the "standard" Flyer monitor connector. Easiest would be to find someone to cut that connector off and hardwire a BNC and 12v power connector of your choice to it, with enough new cable to reach your new monitor. Easy for any competent video engineer. Probably cost you under 100 bucks.
Or, call Terry West, one of the foremost Steadicam wiring gurus, and have him wire you up an adapter. Probably $100 to $160 or so, but don't quote me. Just a guess. This leaves your sled "stock" for resale, and as a bonus you can still use your existing monitor for a backup.
Now, the slippery slope....the original Flyer is a standard def sled. Unless you plan to run HDMI or HDSDI outside the post, there's no advantage to getting an HD monitor. The Flyer
SD monitor is actually probably already the best overall SD monitor for that sled. Brighter than most at 500 nits, and a pretty good non-glare coating. With a 640x234 LCD panel... not the sharpest but it's onlya framing monitor after all. Inexpensive replacement monitors (HD or SD) can have power issues (nominally they are 12V but some can't handle the 16-17V a fresh battery spits out). Most are not bright at all, and I'd take brightness over sharpness for Steadicam use.
As for running video outside the post, that's considered a no-no but if done right is not such a big deal. Run a taut video cable from the front of the camera stage under the lens, down to the top center of the monitor. Secure with tape, velcro, twist-ties, whatever to keep them from flopping around.
If I still had my Flyer and was looking to do a monitor upgrade, I would go ahead and have Terry West rewire the post for HD-SDI and also extra power connections, both above and below. Then I'd add a new monitor like the new Marshall 7" 800nit HD monitor or their 6.5" daylight transflective monitor. I wouldn't bother with anything less.
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Dean does the mods. But you'll probably start by talking with a salesman.
He told me he's done a couple of different variations of the "John Perry mod" but if you tell him how you want it he can do it.
I don't think they sell the Bose QC's. You may need to supply it. The QC15 is the successor to the QC2 and is about the same price. I snagged a smokin deal from Ebay but haven't done the mod yet.
Trew also sells a headset based on the Sony pro headphones (not for high noise environments) and one with Sony drivers inside David Clark-style earcups. Supposed to be very effective. You'd need to specify the 5pin XLR.
Hey John P, Congrats on yet another Emmy nomination!
So after reading all the headset info, I think i've decided to call Trew Audio this week and order a QC2 with the mod. Is there a specific person there that you deal with?
CE
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Yes, fullsize broadcast one-piece camcorders pretty much all have a 4-pin XLR power cable with the same pinouts as a 12V Arri cable.
Studio cameras (like the common Sony 1500 series) typically take power from the Triax or fiber cable, and therefore don't need a separate power cable.
Even the weeklong workshops focus mainly on operating rather than cabling and stuff like that. The Steadicam Operators Handbook doesn't go into much detail either. The best way to really get a handle on this stuff is find an operator willing to mentor you, and develop a relationship with a studio or remote truck engineer.
Flyer LE - Power Cabling Question
in Steadi-Newbies
Posted
Yes, of course...dunno why I didn't think to make that suggestion.
Camera batteries are a good option, in fact that's how I always flew the Canons on my old Flyer.
You should already have a 2-pin lemo to 4-pin XLR cable, it's part of the Flyer kit. Hopefully the seller provided it. If you can hook your Hofo up to that 4-pin XLR you are good to go without buying any new cables.
While you're at it, consider buying or fabricating a 6-to-8 pound weight plate, and a Manfrotto quick release plate. Mount the QR plate on the weight plate to make it easy to swap batteries.
One other thing, there are more than one type of 2-pin lemos. I don't believe the one you linked to is compatible with the 2-pin lemo on the Flyer.