Mark Schlicher

Will consider reasonable offers. You can be assured this is in pristine condition, confirmed by the folks at Stanton.

Thanks for the info! Nice work.

Just curious who the operator(s) on this show is/are?

Selling a Stanton Steadicam zoom/focus handle controller. Lightly used and in excellent cosmetic and working condition.

Just got back from a complete factory checkup from Stanton.

$1800 plus shipping

Includes:

-Zoom/Focus/Power Control handle
-Gimbal clamps x2 (one each for 1" and 5/8" gimbal diameters)
-Stanton Motor with Fuji focus gear and Canon focus gear
-Power/Zoom/Motor control cable - 3 pin Lemo for Tiffen sleds (can easily be replaced or a jumper made)
-Canon/Fuji adapter for zoom cable
-Lens mount motor attachment bracket
-Pelican/Storm case

Selling my analog Bartech BFD setup. Complete with tons of extras.

Jim has completely updated and serviced, including new pot, CPU, and RF module in transmitter.

Everything is in excellent working condition.

Complete kit for $4000 plus shipping

Cost new: $7550

Included:

Bartech handset and receiver

Heden M28VPT motor w/ 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, and 0.8 gears

Right angle motor cable #6112A

Tiffen to BFD receiver power cable #3015

Pro/XCS to BFD receiver power cables (qty 2) #3005

P-tap to BFD receiver power cable

Mattebox receiver rod mounting bracket

Pro/XCS mounting bracket (double)

Stepdown rod collars: Panavison and 15mm

dogbone 15-15mm w/ 15mm stubby rod

dogbone 15-19mm w/ 19mm stubby rod

Additional included cables and AKS:

set of 2 butterfly clips (for mounting two BFD Tx together)

BFD to Panavision power/run #6779 (qty 2)

BFD to Arri 11 pin power/run #6780 (qty 2)

BFD to Aaton run cable #6098 (qty 2)

BFD to Arri RS port #6782 (qty 1)

Extra antennas for Tx and Rx

Pelican 1500 case (yellow)

What are these "known" gimbal issues specifically? I haven't read or heard of any unusual problems with Pilot gimbals.

I stated that the Pilot gimbal (as well as the arm) is theoretically engineered to carry the rated 10 lb camera plus the weight of the sled, monitor and battery. Your statement appears to imply that "known issues" make the gimbal unreliable at its advertised payload.

Can you elaborate, please?

If the arm lifts 18lbs and the sled, battery, and monitor add up to about 8 (I bet it's slightly less, actually), that tracks pretty well with the 10 pound advertised "camera payload."

The gimbal and arm are (in theory) both designed with these things in mind.

The Zephyr is a great little rig for a DSLR shooter, but if you continuously put it through the rigors of professional sets, parts will wear. I know this first hand. It doesn't have the same precision as it did in the first year that I owned it. I've taken it in a few times this year to have things adjusted. I tried telling the service staff and engineers that it didn't perform the way it used to, and I've gotten the response, "well, it's a Zephyr." They didn't even believe me when I said that it used to spin perfectly.

That is unacceptable customer service. Don't accept such answers. If you're not already speaking with Derek Hester, contact him directly, and be prepared to be specific and quantify your issues. Good luck. Are you talking about a gimbal issue? Tiffen has taken care of a couple of issues I've had, but I have had to push them sometimes.

SD Zephyrs can easily be upgraded to HD later, by replacing the SD monitor with a Marshall HD monitor or something similar, plus a custom cable or two.

Victor, thanks for the link. Looks like a promising converter option.

Ross, you're welcome.

And to make sure I'm being clear, you'll want to stretch this (these) cables from the front center of your camera topstage, down to the top center of your monitor. Secure the cable at both attachement points (probably with zip-ties) so that it is taut and doesn't flop around. Obviously make sure that you have strain relief on both ends and that you coil up and secure any excess cable. This technique keeps the cables out of the way for operating.

I've advocated a sticky in this sub-forum on more than one occasion. I'm mystified that it's never been done.

I'm also mystified that some people who seemingly can't find the time or manners to deliver a constructive critique when requested, will so often make the time for condescending, negative and nasty comments. If newbies are so annoying, why troll the newbie section? Just sayin.

Lets uncomplicate things a bit...

Adding a bunch of converters to the Pilot is possible but why add a tangle of wires & connectors & powering hassles? You have at least two options that are reasonably uncomplicated and inexpensive.

1. Most DSLR's offer simultaneous HDMI and SD composite output. Plug the SD signal into the Pilot monitor, and use HDMI output for the Paralinx.

2. Buy an HDMI sled monitor (such as a Marshall or Small HD) with loop through. Stretch an HDMI cable externally (down the front of the camera stage, to the back of the monitor). Secure it tautly with zip-ties or something similar to keep it neat. Either attach the Paralinx to the loop-out connector on the monitor and rig it to the lower sled spar or....to keep the transmitter up high on the camera stage, run a second HDMI cable side by side with the first.

Hope that helps.

John is not only a great operator but a generous professional and genuinely nice guy. Kudos on a beautifully designed and executed shot.

Vote for Poncho!

On the original Flyer, the second battery plate was a "dummy", not wired into the sled. Used for adding a second battery for extra weight only. I assume that the D-tap output was probably functional but I never had occasion to try it. I imagine that a 12V Flyer LE would have the same dummy plate. You could theoretically run a wire pair from the D-tap, forward to the monitor, and then up to the front of the camera stage, for a second source of 12V power up top. OF course, you'd need a heavy enough camera payload to make things work overall, but it is one way to do it.

I happened to check today because I'm flying tomorrow. The current rules (since 2008) on Lithium Ion, as I understand it, is as follows:

1. Can't check them. Must be in carry-on baggage.

2. Anything up to 100-watt hours (which would include Dionic 90's and Dionic HC's) you can carry on as many as will fit in your carry-on baggage.

3. Anything between 100 and 160 watt-hours you can carry on a total of three....one installed on a camera and two "spares."

http://safetravel.dot.gov/larger_batt.html

http://safetravel.dot.gov/whats_new_main.html

Check this out for ID cards....http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=16488&hl=

Someone (I think it was Peter Abraham) once suggested to me that ideal was about 60%-70% on hips and 30-40% on shoulder.

I use a P-touch PT-2430. Hooks to the computer. You use a special laminated flexible tape that is designed for cables. It works pretty well. The software is kind of clunky but workable. Buy.com used to put them on sale for about $30 from time to time. Labels look good.

Radio shack sells hand-writable cable labeling tape but it's awful.

No personal experience with the Redrock, but I've heard mixed reviews at best. Most here would probably agree there is no such thing as a "beginner" follow focus. It's a piece of gear you must be able to rely on. Stick with tried and true. You can hardly go wrong with a used Bartech (analog or digital). If you can't afford at least a Bartech system, then you're better off renting on an as-needed basis. Also bear in mind that the AC, not you, will be operating the FF. An unfamiliar off-brand like the RR unit will not make for a happy AC.

The possible exception to the above is the new Axis 1 from Hocus Products. It's just coming to market, with good reviews from early testers. It seems to be designed and built extremely well. I believe it is roughly comparable in price to a new digital Bartech.

Interesting. Three or four years ago when I had my flyer, I asked if they had any gen-one compatible improved (2 screw) battery hanger brackets and they said they didn't. That's when I took a file to mine to rough it up. It worked fine after that.

Have you tried roughing up the two surfaces that mate together with a file?

If the consumer gopro market is several orders of magnitude bigger than the pro market, then you can bet that the noise generated by the movi will translate into high demand for a prosumer-grade setup like this.

For every hobbiest wanting to build one from rc heli parts and open source software there are probably ten who would love an off-the-shelf toy to play with.

And just like gopro itself, a few professional early adopters in the reality or extreme sports markets can drive the buzz that sells many more to the masses.

I also see this as a potential tool for corporate and documentary shooters,

Ed, whether or not you want to be the guy to do it, somebody will be first in to this big market and make some good money I suspect.

Thanks for all of the replies. I checked out the DIY options and actually found a couple of knee pads that I could have modded, but in the end I opted for the CCC pad. Very reasonably priced (especially considering the time savings compared to sewing and/or cutting). I like the fact that pads are removable and interchangable for different heights, stiffness, etc. So far I like it very well.

Thanks, all.

Ken, the show is using a camera that does not have a stock ENG-type foam, and the contour angle is not ergonomic so there is a significant pressure point where all 30lbs of camera/lens/lockit/microwave/battery hits in basically one spot. I'm concerned about nerve or tendon damage, it's more than just toughing out the pain until I get used to it. The camera's on my shoulder for 10 hours a day pretty much constantly.