Paweł Traczyk

Interesting. I was quite sure that Betz post is thicker than ARRI. Am I mistaken, or is there something else to consider?

The other option would be the new MKV 2" gimbal that is also Volt compatible, however I haven't seen one in the wild yet. Betz-tools with Volt is however very popular where I live 🙂

Paul, maybe instead of changing the post, change the gimbal? Betz-tools gimbal is volt-compatible (meaning you can actuall mount the Volt onto it, not change the whole gimbal as with ARRI) and around 5K euro (at least it was a couple years ago, installation and Volt kit was additional 9k IIRC). It's designed for 1,96" post, so should fit your Artemis post no problem with a spacer 🙂

About the weight - with lightly rigged camera package you should be close to, but within the limits of you sled. The 20lbs limit is for everything you put on the sled - so the camera, all batteries, accessories etc. 30 lbs is maximum the arm can carry. So stick to the 20 lbs limit for safety. Atlas Orions are 5-7 lbs each, camera body around 7-8 lbs. But your issue will be power, as Alexa 35 needs 24V that Aero 30 doesn't provide. So you will need to run onboard battery for the camera, and that will of course increase the weight of camera package. Also keep in mind that you won't be able to use the batteries provided with the camera (B-mount 24V) for your sled (AB mount or V-mount, 12V), so make sure you can balance the camera with the batteries and counterweights you have access to. It would be best to test everything beforehand. Weigh the camera package + sled battery, then weigh the whole sled with the camera and batteries to check if you are withing limits of the sled and arm before proceeding. Also keep in mind that your options of extending the post for low or high shots will be limited if you are close to maximum weight capacity of your sled. And make sure you are properly insured before putting the expensive af camera on your sled 🙂

Ewan, I would highly discourge you from drilling the holes to mount the connectors - the post of the Float is already pretty weak, and that woudn't help. What I would suggest is (If you really have to do it): Option 1 - drill the smallest holes possible, the further from the post ends the better, and feed only the cable (SDIs can be really thin) through. That way you will weaken the structure only a bit (still I think it would be good to run some calculations on that) and you can mount the entire BNC connector (something like Neutrik reartwist jack) externally on the post Option 2 - remove the inner post cable and connectors and make a new one with 4-pin lemo at each end, carrying both power and image signal. If you decide to do any of above, remember that it's a product that is not really made to be serviced, so there's a lot of glue, small screws and brittle parts involved in disassembling the top and the bottom of the post. There are posts from people that did it on FB group called Tilta DJI Ecosystem Users. Option 3 - consider using the float as it is intended - as a support system for the gimbal, not as a steadicam. Having a monitor on the grip is a better solution for that.