David Williams

It can do HD-SDI and SD-SDI simultaneously. There are two sets of SDI outputs you know :) Set one to 1.5G, the other to SD. I've been using an F3 with an SD Flyer-LE and Ki Mini for six months that way.

Amimon released a new WHDI chipset late last year, and Hisense recently announced a product based on it. Might be worth investigating. The transmitter is now tiny, and powered from the HDMI port. http://thetechjournal.com/electronics/hisense-whdi-accessories.xhtml Supposed to be the same range, with the latest HDMI standard.

Email IMDB with your information...

My EX3 has a BNC for composite out, the EX1 also has composite out but I'm can't remember the plug type. You can set letterbox, squeeze or edge crop, overlay on or off. It won't output peaking or zebras. The internal down converter isn't great quality, and also underscans a bit, but is usable for monitoring.

I never had an issue with my EX3 on my Fyler-LE, probably because I used a long release plate which fitted the length of the EX3 base. I did end up buying one of these though, DM-Accessories EX3 Base Plate, mostly for added peace of mind.

This was just posted in some other forums. This device was designed primarily to complement lower end HD cameras like the Sony EX series. Sony hobbled the native recording system so they don't encroach to far into their PDW-700/800 markets, but they left full single channel HD-SDI output. With a nano attached, and a good lens, an EX will produce images rivaling products many times more expensive.

Some matte black cardboard with some velcro. Cheap, easily modified, even look good if you can cut straight :)

I have the Libec ZC-9EX, it's very nice, will also work with Fujinon and Canon ENG lenes by unplugging the adapter and flicking a switch. BUT, the cable is far to heavy for good Steadicam use. You can set it up with neutral drag in one position, but if you have to switch it becomes a drag, so to speak.

Get Jerry and Laurie's book, http://www.jerryholway.com/, borrow someones rig if you can, do one of the 6 day courses, then buy one if your still keen. Never too young, but remember you need to learn to be a camera op as well. You have to frame and move.

Tiffen stepped up and offered warranty replacements. Thanks Michael!

Aww, don't tell me that :) I was pleased to find one right near by! Ah well, thanks. I will pop in and have a look at their range, they have a few. There might be some suitable ones...I'll keep looking around though.

The left shoulder buckle exploded on the job today. Kind of surprising considering I only had a grand total of 7 odd Kg on board. Close inspection shows no obvious distortion or wear in the broken item, and the sled was resting in the sweet spot while I waiting my call for a live to tape show. It just went pop, and my camera tried to head butt the wall. These buckles are pretty light weight, considering the constant pressures the under go. Looking at it now, it has all of @ 1.5mm of plastic between the rivet hole and fresh air. It broke right there of course. That's all that's holding the whole chest plate to the shoulder buckles? They are also riveted on, so you can't inspect them for wear and replace them without drilling out the rivets. I was able to wire the vest together and carry on, and now I'm looking around for some decent quality buckles to replace the originals. I found that Fastex are actually based in Melbourne where I am, so they may be my best bet. Anyone have any other recommendations for shoulder buckles for a Flyer-LE vest? I'd recommend any one else with a Flyer replace there buckles as soon as practical, because they are not particularly good if mine is representative of the general quality :( http://www.fastex.com.au/plastic_buckles.htm

You also have this one http://www.hocusproducts.com/ He's apparently going to be at NAB for another company, but he'll have it under the desk. It's made for budget end setups with 35mm SLR adapters. Apparently under $1000US, but not set yet.

I was curious and got 12Kg on mine with sled. Still plenty in the bicep, but the forearm just dipped. That's 26.4 in pounds. I'm looking into modding the lower spar now, as Charles suggested. I have a set of 15mm rails I can cannibalize, just need some more rail blocks and knock up some right angle bracket I can bolt onto the existing bottom bracket. It looks like the v-lock plates will unscrew and separate easily, so I just make some plates to bolt them onto and put a rail block on them. Then mount the monitor on another set above, on a rail block with a bracket like Charles's. Cinevate make some blocks that would be perfect. Should be not much more weight than the original setup.

I just ordered through Elsevierdirect.com as Jerry recommended. Ended up being being $93.97 Australian, which is about $62 U.S., so it does save a few bucks :) http://www.elsevierdirect.com/product.jsp?isbn=9780240811659