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  1. I myself prefer a short rig but will change that based on what is needed within the majority of a shot. So, if I need the lens at a higher or lower height I will change that to a longer rig. Danny, take advice from the guy with more experience and who actually wrote the book on Steadicam, contributed to Steadicam with multiple inventions and who has devoted decades of his life to teaching Steadicam Operating to thousands of people across the globe. My two cents.
    4 points
  2. Yeah, what do you know about steadicam, Jerry?... ... mmm what?... ooooh.... wait...
    3 points
  3. I think post length should be altered to get the specific shot - either to change the lens height range and/or the rig's inertia. Choosing to configure your sled only one way is like playing 10 keys on the piano instead of all 88.
    3 points
  4. Just remember folks, it is not just the weight, but the weight distribution that influences the "feel." Spread your masses to add pan inertia and you'll likely much prefer it.
    3 points
  5. Arm protection from sand, sea/salt moisture and direct sun. The Teflon coated, waterproof 4 way stretch material has a slight reflective quality so it deflects sun rays and keeps the arm cooler making it more comfortable to operate in blistering sun/heat conditions. Doesn’t limit or impede on the Arms range of motion. It’s easy on easy off from Dock. Drys fast after rinsing/ washing. 2 sizes. PRO Titan. PRO Atlas/ G90 $140.00
    2 points
  6. I guess that all depends on how short you are and how high you need to go. But yes, I often use a long arm post. Arm posts longer than 12" are frowned upon, based on strength. I'll try to raise to socket block maybe but really how much does that gain if your torso isn't all that long. Depending on the height one needs, one may need to do one or the other or a combo. My point is being dead set on one set up is limiting to what one can achieve as an operator. Personally, I think it makes one less versatile in a world where shots are never the same.
    2 points
  7. Titan arm, 4 blue canister and 2 black canister plus accs. 14000 U$S ,buyers pay shipping
    2 points
  8. This scene in total is about 4 minutes and I believe I can see a break between two shots that they edited into one. I was lucky to be in a Q & A with the actors where they said the steadicam op, Chris Haarhoff was given little direction especially at the point of the argument. I love this movie, and although the moves are simple they're very telling to the story!
    2 points
  9. Looks like to me the edit is right off the top when she gets out of the pool. Looks like low mode then changes to regular mode. This shot is nice because it tells the story without being a gratuitous Steadicam shot. Exactly what you want it in a Steadicam shot.
    2 points
  10. Selling my Artemis with everything you could need for transport, power and camera support. All gear was never loaned or rented, and always treated like royalty. Asking 28k, Located in NYC, willing to ship at buyers expense, but priority given to local buyers first. Not looking to part out. Arm and Vest NOT included as I am keeping those. For a full gallery please look here. Full List: Cases: 3x Pelican Storm iM2450 with pad Pelican iM2950 Storm with pad Power: 6x "Switronix HyperCore GOLD 150Wh (14.8V, 10A)" Anton Bauer TM4
    1 point
  11. Jerry and Alec I just realized I didnt reply to your comments. Thanks a lot for the input, it means a lot coming from 2 legends like yourselves!
    1 point
  12. Hello, I'm wondering if there are any advantages to extending the post to make the rig longer or if it is better to keep it as compact as possible? I assume there has to be some physics behind the explanation and maybe it all comes down to personal preference/specific shot scenario. I would love any information on the topic. Danny
    1 point
  13. Hey Anthony, thanks for your reply! Yes...for me it was the same situation: my slow push-ins work better as regular, but after trying several times, its hard for me to re-wire myself to operate with the camera on my left...it's just unnatural for me...the feeling, moving around, positioning myself in the space, etc. So im sticking to goofy! (for now)
    1 point
  14. Tiffen includes a handle that will accept PRO sized posts (5/8") with a Volt. Did you not specify that when you bought it?
    1 point
  15. Hi folks! It's a pleasure to meet you all. I will be popping in and out of the forum on a regular basis and I'm looking forward to getting to know as many of you as possible! If you need me for any reason and I haven't responded in a timely fashion to your post, please feel free to call either the direct number Paul listed in the post above, my cell at (475) 689-7289, or shoot me an email at Ted.Doubov@VitecGroup.com. Let's all cross our fingers for a healthy and productive 2021. Best wishes to all, Ted Doubov
    1 point
  16. Hi Everyone, I just wanted to let everyone know that we have a resident battery expert for Anton/Bauer on staff now. He joined us at the end of 2020 and he has now joined the steadicamforum. Here are his contact details: Ted Doubov ted.doubov@vitecgroup.com (203)402-7995 direct number I'm not on the site as much as I'd like to be, and I am still a resource for anyone here, but you'll see Ted's name popping up more than mine. If you contact me, I will still always answer you, so please don't think that I am leaving the community. I enjoy reading all of the posts to unde
    1 point
  17. Batteries should match your work. I have Dionic XT batteries (90wH) for my commercial/scripted kit, and generic "BCB" (150wH) batteries for my live kit. In the past, battery brand name probably mattered more, but lately, the generic batteries seem to function just fine. And for the price, you're fine going for cheaper generic batteries if you need.
    1 point
  18. I'm interested in what people come back with on this too. Seems like AB vs Vlock is a regional preference. Between those two many will say that Vlocks are prone to fall off but I've personally never seen that happen. So when shopping for myself and deciding what my steadi will have, I'm basing my decision on which of the two are more readily available. The rest is more subjective. Capacity and weight can influence how you build so choose based on how many you want to fly on the rig and how many batts you want to own. Brands; Anton Bauer, Hawkwoods, Core, IDX and Watson all seem to
    1 point
  19. Hey all! I know this conversation was a while back, but I just wanted to let you guys know I agree with you that people should have options to reduce waste, and that's why I'm opening up shop in New York to offer re-cell service to the filmmaking community. This past year I had my personal set of HCX batteries start to go bad, and when I realized Ritter had closed up shop I decided to tool up and do the service myself. I am now up and running, able to re-cell Anton Bauer, PAG, Core/Switronix, and IDX. The list is growing, so if you've got something laying around that you'd prefer not go t
    1 point
  20. Always great to see work from Guvvie. Where do you see the potential break? Cheers!
    1 point
  21. They make them in Germany, try there!
    1 point
  22. Jeongwoo, here's the link! However, this was the only website I can find with extension posts. I'm not sure if this would fit nor work. I was told this rig was a Zephyr but with further inspection (and removing tape to reveal labels) I believe it's a heavily modified Frankenstein build meant to act similar to a Zephyr. I know for sure that the arm is a Glide Gear DNA 6001 though, and have found the arm post could be removed when unscrewed from the bottom. First two images are of the arm post I had originally and it's assembly. The last three are the makeshift arm rod extension I made. Th
    1 point
  23. Update for any other newbies or folks on smaller rigs -- I added ~7 pounds to it today and am finding it so much easier to handle. I'm sitting in the middle of the range of what the zephyr can hold, so plenty more room to grow but this was really helpful for me.
    1 point
  24. Hi everyone! I have an Action Cam Rebel Elite rig that I've been using for a while and I really love it. I'm seeing all this great info about the volt system and I feel like I may be able to make it work on my post, but I'm not sure. My post diameter is 2" and the collar is 3". I know there would be a fair amount of Frankensteining that would need to happen to make it work, like purchasing an M-1 collar. However, if the measurements are off to begin with then it's pointless. Anyone able to shed a little light on the specs and outfitting process?
    1 point
  25. ADMINS- Please get rid of this. there is just absolutely no reason why I should have to use a 3rd party app to get into a website. unless this is some setting that ive got on my omputer that ive never encountered before, i think that this is a result of the website. i just absolutely cannot stand stuff like this and there is no reason that on a discussion forum, not a place where any real important or secure information is secured, that there sould be some kind of authentication beyond username and password. sorry, this is extremely frustrating and annoying. hopefully im being an idi
    1 point
  26. i hear ya, but we’ve managed to handle this site for twenty years without it. not that i need to hear the whole backstory, it i’m curious if there was some egregious hacking to prompt this. anyways...more apps
    1 point
  27. When I started operating Steadicam, I did it in goofy, and remained that way for several years. Then one day I was practicing a very slow creep forward and realised that I was struggling a little to maintain a steady shot. I switched to regular and it was totally weird and I thought I'll go back to goofy. But then I thought, no, let's persevere with goofy, and continued to practice over a number of days. Suddenly, I realised that my operating improved. I'm right handed but also I walk easier when I operate in regular. Slow creeps were much easier to execute as a result and I've never gone back
    1 point
  28. It’s two pieces bolted together (as you no doubt already know). The base is Mitchell mount for hi-hats/dollies/risers/basically anything on most sets. The piece with the socket block on it can also be mounted on speed rail with the u-bolts in the kit (or from a hardware store). It’s not a complicated thing to do but I’d advise against doing it by oneself unless you have done it a few times and/or someone has walked you through properly rigging the mount etc. — lots of things can go wrong without a solid base and disaster can ensue and gear can be lost as well as people injured. Definitely don
    1 point
  29. I have not. Sometimes the AC's change batteries on the rig between takes or setups without telling me and calibration is lost.
    1 point
  30. BUMP. Artemis Arm Pkg Now $8000.00 Tiffen Ultra Pkg $6000.00 Together $13500.00 ALL OFFERS will be considered
    1 point
  31. I just completed 6 weeks of production, but some of my working conditions were unique to our production, and most likely not going to be duplicated by any other shows. For example, there was no negotiation regarding PPE. If you were an on set position (the red wristband zone), you were required to wear the provided KN95 masks and face shields, no exceptions. We had health and safety compliance staff all over production enforcing these rules, and our director was the most stringent enforcer of all. He would yell at anyone he saw with their mask below their nose, or the wrong mask, and don
    1 point
  32. Last price offer: 8500$ + shipping. In two weeks the backage will go back to Russia, so last change to purchase :)
    1 point
  33. Hi all; The bad guys are attacking company tax numbers and other critical identifiers just like they're looking for SS numbers. Beware, things can be bought and ordered via your company and its a horrible situation. You can lock both your company identifiers with various reporting agencies just like you can lock your SS number. (Parents can lock their kids SS numbers too and prevent identity theft from them. A big problem too.) This is a heads up on the problem and maybe we can save someone/many a huge problem. Keep an eye on all of it in this weirdest of times!!
    1 point
  34. If you don't have any other choice, this could help you : - Have an assistant Raising or lowering your docking stand to the correct height for the shot - Put your Sled on the balancing stud - Put a magic arm between your post and the stand - Frame the shot, than tighten the magic arm Not as sturdy as a tripod but can sometimes help.
    1 point
  35. i just finished gaspar noe's climax and ho ly cow. but who is the operator? wild stuff, radical perspectives. the dp is benoit debie. does he also operate? brett.
    1 point
  36. Hi Josh, I remember being in your shoes clearly - it was the late summer of 2012, I was on my first feature film, having operated “semi-professionally” for about a year, and on two occasions I had to either put the 85mm up, or do a shot on the 50mm in low mode, and I remember both being seemingly impossible. So, you’re not alone in the difficulty of doing long lens work on Steadicam when starting out! I’d say about 1/4 of my work is tighter than a 50mm. Generally I don’t see many lenses above 135mm (though I have from time to time), although especially when doing anamorphic, 135mm is
    1 point
  37. Extra points for shorts and knee high socks.
    1 point
  38. Handheld operating like that at 2min09s .... er... Great BTS:
    1 point
  39. Let's see - some operators who know a lot about operating a "real stabilizer" are here on this forum. We have a newbie section, where the very inexperienced can find "real" answers rather than on another forum frequented by folks who probably have less experience. What's the problem? If anyone doesn't want to read posts in the newbie section or answer those posts, just don't. Easy enough. Doubt if any of it clogs up anything.
    1 point
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