Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/28/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Pristine condition Tiffen M1 rig with Volt system. *Flat (equals rock solid) M1 topstage. *M1 Camera Dovetail Plate (unused/as new). *Two stage 1.75” M1 Centerpost. *M1 Gimbal with Volt. *Volt Control cable. *Volt Sensor Box Power cable. *Volt Sensor Box and attachment bracket. *M1 Monitor Mount (monitor not included). *M1 lower Junction Box and dual battery plate. *Eight IDX V mount batteries. *One IDX simultaneous Quad Charger. *Tiffen Volt Docking Bracket. *Spare Volt motor belt. *Spare Volt Sensor Box Power Cable. *Spare Encoder Sensor. *Case for M1 Volt Rig. *Case for Batteries and Charger. Price for all: $25,500 US. Buyer pays shipping (shipping account preferred). This rig has been fantastic. The only reason for selling is that i just received my M2 Volt. Serious inquiries only. More photos available. Email only please. I don’t always check the forum. Grayson Grant Austin, SOC graysonaustin@me.com
  2. 2 points
    To those who missed my Chocolate Lab, Harley. Meet our new two month old Black Lab. This is Lillie. She will be excited to meet you!
  3. 2 points
    PL Mount. All lenses in Pristine Condition. No Scratches. No Dust. No Fungus. No Cleaning Marks. CPs - $1,500 each. Schneider - $2,000. PayPal - buyer pays shipping + fees. PM me for more pics.
  4. 1 point
    Rig Engineering Silver Spring Arm for sale. Well-maintained 3a style arm with 13-63 lbs (5.89-28.97 kg) payload capacity. There are cosmetic dings here and there on the spring covers. Great condition overall. $5,500.00 OBO pics coming soon. Comes with Storm case, nylon arm bag, proprietary spring tensioning tool, arm post(6", 8" 12") with arm clamp for each
  5. 1 point
    Hi everyone, I'm finally letting go of my G-50 arm with X upgrade! I've been the only owner for 10 years, and never rented it out. It got the X upgrade in 2012, and I replaced the hanger with a custom-made beefier version a few years ago. It's in perfect working order, only selling because I'm selling my lightweight rig. Depending on your location and my workload, I may be able to deliver it in person. Otherwise, I can certainly ship it. Asking $6,500. Let me know if you have any questions. Thank you!
  6. 1 point
    Great condition, comes with case. Due to the size, local sale preferred. $1300 PayPal welcomed, buyers pay shipping and PayPal fee.
  7. 1 point
    Any reasonable offer will be considered.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    $8.5K Arm performs as if new. Selling because I am DPing full time. Selling with Gray canisters (32lbs to 45lbs) Includes pro arm bag, spare parts, tools and 5/32 t-wrench!
  10. 1 point
    Low miles. Excellent condition. Must sell at loss. Great opportunity for aspiring operators. Phenomenal backup rig compliment for veteran operators. Contact Dennis (801) 201-4192. Leave message.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Everyone, Found these parts in my home I never used PRO GPI SD top Stage, GPI PRO Telescopic centerpost with SD Cable and CP IIIA Gimbal in very good conditions. Center post and top stage $1 250 CP IIIA Gimbal $ 850 accepts offers Parts are in Europe. Thank you for viewing. Chris
  12. 1 point
    Try Matthews slider stand!
  13. 1 point
    Selling my Aero 30 system including all cables, plates, and accessories. Only been used to shoot one indie feature. The vest has been used a few more times as I rented it out to a buddy of mine but has added cross back straps. Other than that it’s all ready to go for ya in the pelican case with accessory organizer in the lid. I do also have a 5 foot c stand that was used to mount and balance it if you want that as well. If not I’ll take $100 off the price. I am throwing in the Steadicam guidebook and an extra V-Mount for the system. It currently has the Gold-Mount on it. Just looking for an excited new owner. -Steadicam Aero 30 system - 3 D&O 190 WH batteries (gold mount) - Dual battery charger - 1660 Pelican case - 1 pair smallrig 15mm rails - 2 smallrig rod clamps 15mm - 2 19-15mm Rod bushings - 19/15mm dovetail plate - 1 Alexa mini to D tap power cable - 1 RED to D tap power cable - 1 Lemo to D tap power cable - HMDI to mini HDMI coil cable - P tap to usb converter - SDI to HDMI converter - HDMI to SDI converter - D Tap to P tap power strip - miscellaneous Allen wrench and flat head screws - pack of bongo ties - gorilla Allen wrench Asking $6500 Located in Detroit, MI Buyer pays shipping. Email: jaycubrows@gmail.com if Interested More Photos Can be Viewed here https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/580483792482645/?ref=messenger_share
  14. 1 point
    And the batteries. 6 x Swit (but one needs to be looked at) 3 x Pag L95e 3 x Pag L96e Thanks
  15. 1 point
    RIG, Arm, Magliner, etc... sold Still available: Ultra 2 Vest Training setup incl. camera and zoomcontrol.
  16. 1 point
    Includes Sled, Vest, Arm, docking bracket, and HD TVlogic monitor. Sled is in good working condition. There are a few scuffs and scratches, one deeper paint scrape in the lower section (pictured) but it's overall in good condition. Wired for sd, but with an HD monitor. Has Anton Bauer battery plate, but can be swapped out with a V mount for additional cost. Arm has scuff marks on the edges, there is a small click at the top of the boom range. This does not effect operation, just annoying when you put the rig on. I believe it's something to do with the bump stops, but I'm not sure. Arm includes a 1/2" post. Hanging strap has been replaced with tie line. Vest is in good condition. Small amount of surface rust on a few of the screws, but they turn freely and aren't stripped. Ratchets have plenty of bite in them. Socket block is rigid and mounts solidly Docking bracket is missing the plastic part of the thumb screw. Would be a perfect first "Big Rig" due to it's power options, and light weight, and high capacity. US and Canada only please. Asking $10,500 OBO David@DavidMAronson.com https://imgur.com/a/E9hYnwz
  17. 1 point
    Robert Luna is the gentleman to contact in L.A. who can help you. Someone here on the forum will definitely have his contact info.
  18. 1 point
    So I continued working on the wiring and the hardware and so far it's been really fun. I decided to skip the 12/24V switchable electronics and just go with 12V. It makes everything a lot more easier and because of the really narrow center post I was able to cramonly a quiet thin coiled cable inside and tape a thin 75 Ohm coax cable to the coiled one. (I couldn't find a coiled sdi cable that was thin enough and it worked out that way too.) Because of the small AWG, I decided to power the cameras only with their on battery on the back and use my sled power for accessories and counter weight distribution. I built a double battery hanger with voltage meters and on/off switches. I'm able to position the whole thing for/aft. Still missing the diodes to prevent backfiring, but that's a minor task. Additionally I placed a v Mount plate under the center post. It was no work at all and I had another one lying around and though I might never use it, it's nice to have. All the wiring comes together in the small silver box. There is one Aux Power directly connected to the plate under the center post and the other too work of the dual battery hanger. Also the center post cable is wired to the battery hanger inside the lower J-Box and the HD-SDI Line runs through it too. On the bottom of the J-Box you can see cable strain reliefs, so when extending the post or moving parts around the wired connections don't get stressed. I decided against a lot of connectors, because I'm gonna wire a 3x d-tap to lemo splitter and velcro it on the box if needed. I modfied the monitor mount a little and now have 15mm rod natorail clamp on it to mount my atomos shgun flame. I won't be able to switch to lowmode and turn the monitor without taking it of first, but that's a minor issue considering the costs of that mod. Concerning the lemo connectors, they are no standard lemos you'll find in most other sleds. I just made an great deal for 10 of them (male and female) used and will be building my own cables if needed. Always regarding of keeping the costs low. Things to come: The upper J-Box will be much like the lower one except with only two lemo outs, both powerd of the dual battery hanger. I'll screw a 3x d-tap to lemo splitter on the box there and use the 2nd lemo output for a small blackmagic monitor which will be under the front of the topstage for low mode. So far it didn't even cost me 100 bucks. I'm currently looking into buying a masters vest and arm (or similar), because the vest is really bad and I need a decent arm when I get the vest. I'll see how that goes and will upgrade to a better sled afterwards, but until then that's going to be my practice rig. Also attending the silver workshop in the UK in november and will test some rigs then.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I have the Raven Black Edition and the original Raven. It's a great system for the money but as someone else mentioned with the car comparison, you get what you pay for. It's fairly barebones, but not bad. Would recommend the front mount vest, but if you've ever tried on a $4000+ vest you will be underwhelmed. That being said, it's an easy win over the Zephyr system in my opinion, which is an intermediate solution. Based on metrics like payload, touch, price, ect.
  21. 1 point
    Hi although I have not personally used a raven for actually work, I have put one on and set it up to test out a system before shipping it out to Colombia for a fellow operator who bought one of those Pro-Line Raven systems here in the states. The system is pretty much barebones I have heard that the newer arm that is offered now is a lot smoother and better than the older version that came with the system that I was prepping to ship down south. The vest does not come with the little side straps that connect the midsection with the lower lumbar support and I feel that that is an absolute necessity in any vest. I'm sure you can go to a good Shoemaker or leatherworker and have them add those straps with some quick disconnect buckles and you'd instantly upgrade the feel of the vest. For the money you can't beat it I've heard prices of $4,000 and even sometimes less for the entire kit it's an amazing deal and then the first upgrade that I would suggest would be to get an older Master Series arm or a steady rig arm. There's even a G50 xarm being sold for $4,000 on the Forum that is just an amazing deal. Good luck. Ozzie
  22. 1 point
    Hi All, I am selling my ARRI Trinity. I purchased it last April from Stephen Consentino. It is the Pro Set with V-mount. I have added a few gadgets along the way that I am including (listed below). Over the year I have been able to really dial it in and have done some amazing work with it! I am preparing to go on a couple shows were I won't be able to utilize it and like all of our expensive toys if it's not making money it needs to go. The rig is in excellent shape! Stephen used it a couple of times and its seen about 20 days on set with me. THE RIG AND EVERYTHING LISTED BELOW $50,000 USD I am listing all of the components below: K0.0012289 TRINITY Rig V-Mount Pro Set K2.0010286 TRINITY Rig K2.0010287 TRINITY Joystick / Monitor Mount K2.0006960 Starlite HD5-ARRI OLED Monitor 5" K2.0010289 TRINITY Battery Mount / V-Mount K2.0010319 Artemis Docking Bracket / 1.8“ K2.0010296 TRINITY External Power Cable K2.0010470 Cam Power / Cine / 12V XLR HiCap K2.0010538 Cam Power / Cine / 12V HiCap / ALEXA K2.0010540 Cam Power / Cine / 12V HiCap / MINI K2.0010476 BNC Video Cable / HD SDI / 4.5 GHz K2.0010290 TRINITY PWR / Lemo 1B 4pin -> 1B 4pin K2.0010291 TRINITY PWR / Lemo 1S 3pin -> 1B 4pin K2.0010461 Post Tool 1.8'' / 1.5'' MBDM001 Media Black Custom Coiled Trinity 4-pin 12V Power to MDR Pelican 1620 Case with Custom Foam for Trinity Head Pelican 1650 Case with Foam cutout for Trinity Sled Add-ons that I am including: K2.0014215 SAM-2 for ALEXA Mini K2.0018851 SAM-1 Stabilizer Adapter Mount for ALEXA K2.0015385 MSP-1, Multi Support Plate for TRINITY K2.0010569 Gimbal Handle Extender K2.0014280 Artemis Knurled Handle Gimbal Extension Media Blackout custom power cable to female D-tap Lenovo - 2-in-1 11.6" Touch-Screen Laptop - Intel Celeron - 2GB Memory - 64GB eMMC Flash Memory - Black The rig and all of it's AKS are located in New York City. If you are interested, please contact me directly via email or my cell. Please do not leave messages here. Brandon Sumner email: brandon@sumnerve.com cell: 718-864-3052
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Bear in mind we are constantly looking to make the feel of the Volt as aesthetic and transparent as possible. I now have a great Volt test rig here at my shop. Built on a beautiful Ultra sled.Working a healthy list of subtle but substantial improvements. Good news is all Volts can be upgraded. I want to make sure anything I release is rock solid and breaks no features you've come to depend on. Thanks. Steve Wagner
  25. 1 point
    I had one. is a "solid" Sled "rig".the arm blows. suffers from the typical flaws of its design. it locks at both extremes, noisy, etc. vest was ok. Raven v2 sled looks a lot better. I had V1, I didn't like how far the top stage is to the docking ring. makes one extend the post too long to find drop time. I had the quirky monitor and battery mounts, replaced those with a camjam monitor mount as soon as I could. on the other hand. the post is loooooong. you can scrape the floor and ceiling if you need to. 2" post d is very nice to handle. that being said. once I tried a Master series w/ a few mods. I never looked back.
  26. 1 point
    WP dolle all the way tonya has always handled any concerns and questions immediately and i dont sweat anything when my rig doesnt show up after shipping from paris. really, didnt sweat at all, toooootally cool that i was shooting in 12 hours. but read your policy! understand all of it. brett.
  27. 1 point
    Upgraded Titanium Springs and bearings. Carries up to 60 lbs +. Great condition. 2yrs old. Comes with arm bag and posts for either Tiffen or Pro. Asking $5600
  28. 1 point
    Thanks Jerry, Very helpful. Being an M1 Volt system owner already, it’s nice to hear that new components are interchangeable with the things I already own. After many years of owning just about every professional rig out there, I can say that I really love my Volt rig. What it does is truly innovative. It still feels like operating a regular rig thanks to its ability to be adjusted to your preference of “feel” but it’s impact is both subtle and profound at the same time. As with any rig, there are a few tiny things I would love to see done a bit differently, (one of which is the integration of the encoder ring into the gimbal) but overall it is fantastic. a couple of questions about the M2: If the post size for the M2 is the same as the M1, what makes them different other than length options? Is the two stage post any lighter in weight, etc? Can the V Lock release safety be retrofitted to the M1? I run my battery box upside down and the release is dangerous. Overall is the M2 (in a similar configuration) lighter than the M1? Any chance that the motor strength can be raised from the M1 Volt maximum? Just curious. Also, I wish the motor disengage was a button at the gimbal handle instead of a switch at the control box. As often as that switch gets used, I am concerned that it will go bad sooner than later. Finally, To Andreas, The use of the word “whatever” in response to me is universally known as a rude, disrespectful term to dismiss what the other person has said in a conversation and in my opinion has no place in any conversation between adults but especially not on this professional forum. Then you iced your disrespectful cake with the phrase, “I hope you have joy in your life!”. If you truly cared about me having joy in my life, you would not have been rude and disrectful in the first place, and yes, I have great joy in my life. i tried to give you some advise and instruction on how you might help this forum and other operators better which you could have either taken or ignored. Instead, you took the low road. My last piece of advice to you is this: The next time a veteran Steadicam operator with over twenty five years of experience and multiple Academy Award winning films to their credit including this years Academy Award winner for Best Picture, “The Green Book” tries to give you some advice, if it’s relevant and useful to you, take it. If it isn’t, ignore it and go on with your life but do your best not to be rude and disrespectful to them (or anyone for that matter). This is a small community and you never know when you might need their help someday. Please note that there is no use of extreme punctuation in my posts (like you used in yours) and therefore no tone implied. Just a matter of fact any my opinion. This will be the last time I’ll waste anymore space on the general forum over this silliness. Grayson Grant Austin, SOC
  29. 1 point
    I usually ask the ACs, "what are you doing with the camera bodies and lenses?" That is where I want my rig. I've seen "walk aways" where Production has the Cameras locked up. Others are truly left in place as is with a space blanket thrown over them. Also, make sure you have an insurance certificate from the Production naming you so its on their dime should they underestimate the security.
  30. 1 point
    I think the thing I'd get first would be your own vest. IMO the vest is the one piece of kit I can't use someone else's. I can probably fly someone else's rig and get away with it as long as I'm in my own vest. And to be perfectly honest, my vest isn't even fit totally right for me. But I know it, and I feel comfortable and at home in my own vest. It's hard to explain, but it's like my little turtle shell.
  31. 1 point
    Thank you, Tim! I have paid at PayPal. Do I need to do anything else, or will it automatically happen? Ah, I see Sustaining Member under my name. Thanks again for immediate response!!
  32. 1 point
    This Gen 1 PRO Battery cage has been modified to take Anton Bauer Gold Mount. It Has a DBox 1 with MDR mount on top of upper electronics. It comes with 2 Removable Modified Chocolate Bars that have functioning Digital desplays. Center post is in Fair condition. $1200.00
  33. 1 point
    Hi Deke, this is what a skilled machinist did for my docking bracket now. Works very nice and truly no loss of strength. Just the little screw holding the plastic inlay through the bottom is a bit wiggly...
  34. 1 point
    I designed these plates out of a frustrating need that kept popping up at camera preps - cameras often needed just a little extra height, either to balance properly on the Wave 1, or, as with the Alexa Mini and some Panavision builds, needed a little extra height so that some part of the camera or lens support would clear my dovetail. I’ve resorted to using washers in between the camera and the dovetail occasionally, but no more! These spacer plates are 3”x5” and 1/4” thick, and weigh 0.15 pounds (.06 kilo). They’re still quite strong, however, because of their design. And the slots are long enough to fit almost any camera hole pattern. If you use the Wave, you’ll be even more pleased with how these work. Balancing the camera vertically can sometimes be a chore - moving motors, adding tons of weight to a Noga arm, etc... Now, if you’re faced with a very bottom heavy camera, use one (or even two!) of these between the camera and the dovetail, and you can use a lot less weight on the Noga, and have a stiffer, simpler build. I made these to be a simple Swiss-Army-Knife type gadget, and small enough to fit in your usual AKS case to be there when you need them! Includes 3/8” socket head extra-long screws, for easy and secure tie down of cameras on the riser. $175 each. Email me to purchase - willsvideo@gmail.com
  35. 1 point
    You're moving too much and too fast. The only time that the lens should move is when you have a REASON to do so. What you're doing here is using the shot to show how nimble your stabilizer is, instead of using the stabilizer to get your shot. As Musashi said, "Do nothing which is of no use." You're doing an art video, not the Rebel attack on the Death Star. Go look at the shot of the leaf. You start drawing back, good, nice, but this is when you should change the angle, even if only by the slightest amount, and you should do so smoothly. To go beyond that, reimagine the shot, you pull back, then smoothly use the leaf as the center of a pivot, so you go from looking at the leaf to having the leaf FG as you look at what the leaf "sees" as it hangs there. This is a shot that can't be done in a hurry. When you can make that look like a dolly shot, you'll really be in control.
  36. 1 point
    Have a look at this one: https://shop.cam-jam.de/product/recorder-mount-for-quattro-monitor-arm/ Also works for the return feed for live shows.
  37. 1 point
    New York Operators - Metro Camera Cars is doing demos of their E-Trike over the next two weekends. See the Facebook event here with dates and times, and to RSVP. From the event page: "The E-Trike for Steadicam and Gimbal Ops will be rigged and ready for demo runs. No gear needed, we'll have everything setup for you to get acquainted and do a few test runs.We'll do a simulated scene, leading talent through the hallway and into Lightbulb Grip & Electric. We can reset and practice the run with stepping off and stepping on if folks are interested.It's a loose format, conversation, test runs and talking shop.During and After the event we can take the rest of the folks waiting to ride outside to checkout the Camera Car and talk shop.Days/TimesSunday Feb 17th- Steadicam Day - 1pm-4pmSaturday Feb 23th- Gimbal Day - 1pm-4pmSunday Feb 24th- Steadicam Day - 1pm-4pmAddress1027 Grand Street, Unit #133, Brooklyn NY, 11211Times may change slightly but this seems good for most people thus far. Please let me know who you're bringing if you're inviting another Op to the demo. We don't want it getting overcrowded and diminish the test times for individuals." Lisa
  38. 1 point
    Posting on behalf of a colleague He is selling his SmartSystem steadicam system in good working condition Set includes: - Matrix Sled - X1 Arm - 8 springs - Case - Vest lite - Docking bracket The system will be completely overhauled by SmartSystem labs at the time of sale Make an offer, buyer pays for shipping thanks Marco
  39. 1 point
    Hello, I’m an owner of a MK-V Nexus 2” sled since year 2005 and as such have gone through issues as majority of MK-V sled owners. I’m going to put a brief description of issues and solutions, covering MK-V sleds going back to early 2000-ens. This is a good read if you own or plan to own an MK-V sled!!! - in early to mid 2000-ens, MK-V put out “V2” Electronics that supported Composite Video Signal, 12V and 24V power independently and upper/lower electronics contained built-in option for Alien Revolution addon. These V2 electronics were being sold to go along with their MK-V Evolution sleds. Mechanically this sled was beautifully designed, a modular masterpiece with zero play but it was electronically flawed if you run both Power and Video signals through the sled’s electronics. This problem with electronics would manifest itself with Composite Video signal’s interferences visible on the monitor or any other transmitted signal that used Composite Video source from the sled (not from camera directly). Solution: not much one can do other than running Composite or SDI cable externally (outside the post) to the monitor or powering camera and steadicam’s monitor separately (lightweight camera with its own battery on the back). My best advice is not to buy V2 electronics. End of discussion here! I considered disabling Alien Revolution connector and using these wires to run 12V/24V ground through these AR wires but they are not thick enough to safely handle higher amperage that’s often needed. - 2010 MK-V put out “V3” version of electronics and sent it out quickly to please revolting sled owners out there. These electronics are similar to V2 electronics in design and look almost the same as V2, with an addition of a dedicated SDI line. But as it often happens when product is sent out quickly without sending some units out for Beta Testing, something gets overlooked. This V3 version of electronics overlooked RF interferences on parts of wiring inside the post that isn’t shielded, mostly the connectors itself inside the post. 1.5GHz or 3GHz (3G) signal that travels through the post is susceptible to RF interferences if it isn’t shielded from various sources of RF that are in the immediate area. Solution: Send your sled to get the internal connectors shield, upgrading your sled from V3 to V3.5 version of MK-V electronics. My best advice is to send your sled to get it to 3.5 version of electronics or if you are thinking of buying an used sled, make sure the owner gets it done. Caution: Externally, when you look at the sled and the electronics, the only difference between V3 and V3.5 is and addition of “.5” engraving on the side of the electronics box. Make sure the upgrade is actually done rather than somebody just etching “.5” on the side of an electronics box. If you are looking to buy used sled with V3.5 electronics, you will be fine on a long run and you will like what you get. - 2012 MK-V put out nothing short than a revolutionary “V4” Electronics. I was one of the first to embrace these V4 electronics in April of 2012. Again these electronics resemble V2, V3, V3.5 in terms of look and appearance but they are totally different inside but also bear more plugs for powering accessories on both upper and lower electronics. There’s a lot more Lemo connectors that you can run more accessories than you would ever want to, there are two dedicated SDI lines in addition to a Composite Video line running through the post. But what is more important than adding all the accessories connectors on upper/lower electronics, the Cable going inside the post has been beefed up to handle heavy amperage loads so no issues here when running heavy Amperage loads through the internal electronics. Just recently I used the new Arri Alexa LF on the sled and the camera alone drains 130-150W (surprise surprise, Arri is not listing Alexa LF power consumption in its brochures, I measured anywhere from 130W to 150W when Alexa LF camera runs), when powered up along with accessories, I went to dismantled my sled and tested the cable inside the post if it was heating up under the heavy amperage load. Cable was fine, V4 electronics are so far the best electronics by far then anything else that exists out there, any way you look at it, V4 are in a class of its own. V4 electronics by MK-V (that I have used for past 6years now) are a good way to go, they are built to last and built tough. Are these electronics too little - too late for company to save its face, time will tell. If I’m to compare them with any other electronics, I would say two grades above anything else available out there at the time I’m posting this comment. Hope this helps and if you read this before purchasing an used MK-V sled, give yourself a pd on the back. Kind regards, Stan Bioksic
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Hey all. Apologies on the delayed response -- I've been working and my schedule's been going from days to nights and then back again. The machinist had a bit of a health hiccup and was ordered by the docs to rest and take it easy. As a result there is a delay in getting the brackets out. I'm done with my current shoot on Thursday and will pop into the shop on Friday to hopefully QC the first batch and give the thumbs-up. Will keep you updated here. Cheers.
  42. 1 point
    For only $5,699, I'll come over and tape a spirit bubble to your monitor screen, just below the image.
  43. 1 point
    Couldn't help it... Bo - no no no no. That may sound negative, but hear me out, and I'll try to give the broad strokes here, saving details for later. No such thing as a half day rate, and who cares how long you operate for the day. 8 hour guarantee, 10 hour guarantee, whatever you can get. Whether they use you for 10 hours or 5 minutes - you get paid for a full day. And it's not because of all the hassle of phone calls, getting to and from set, etc... it's because once you take that half day - assuming you're an honorable guy and fulfill your commitments - you'll have to turn down every other full day that is looking for an operator that day. I've had producers at the end of a day where the Steadicam work was literally one shot try to negotiate a lower rate. With as straight a face as possible I ask, "If every shot today had been Steadicam, would you have paid me more than what we agreed on?" That usually ends the conversation. No introductory rate. You'll find it very difficult to dig out from down the road. And $800/day for labor AND rental???? Is that really the going rate down there? I guess if you don't have a big rig, and aren't in the union, you're probably in a market with which I'm unfamiliar. Perhaps that rate is fair. I wouldn't be able to advise. The first two points, however, should apply regardless. Be consistent. Be clear. Get things in writing. Try not to do "favors", especially for people/producers you don't know. An $800 day of Steadicam is already doing them a huge favor.
  44. 1 point
    Robert, I guess my thoughts on split rate come down to end results. We've all heard the phrase, "your not paying me for what I do but what I can do". I guess with steadicam, I know what I can deliver (pretty much any and everything they can imagine). I've done it for so long and in so many different situations that it's basically impossible to stump me. I frequently get hired to do commercials at my full day rate for literally one shot that I could have done perfectly ten years ago in my sleep. But the high profile actor, director, dp, etc doesn't want to take chances so they tell production, "I want this guy". For me at least (I have yet to meet the Jimmy Muro of MOVI) I can do some cool stuff with the MOVI and I can frame shots and come up with nice compositions with a MOVI but I'm not a super hero with one yet (and It's kind of quirky so I'm not sure I ever will be). But I guess I just don't see the same end result possibilities (for myself) with a MOVI. I have no problem charging my "holy shit" rate for a Nike commercial when I'm doing steadicam but I would be (I'm not sure embarrassed is the right word) but I wouldn't feel right charging that kind of money for my MOVI skills. Does that make sense? And I guess I'd be curious to know, do you charge your full steadicam rate to operate a MOVI? Do you feel your as good with the MOVI as you are with your sled? Good questions, good topic.
  45. 1 point
    I'm with Eric and Kris here. When you walk normally and unaffectedly, you pretty much only use your quads to lift your knees, and an automatic spinal reflex takes care of lifting your foot, so your toes don't drag. When you think too much about any automatic process like walking, you tend to fuck it up. Concentrate instead in moving your frame beautifully though space, and your body will probably work out how to follow. Of entirely anecdotal interest (or not), I spent my first 6 months operating goofy, which suited me fine, except that my walking felt clumsy. When I changed to regular-side, my footwork was instantly better. Retraining my handedness to match operating side was trivial, and took me at most a couple of days. Fly gracefully, Chris
  46. 1 point
    What are those strings hanging from her skirt ? Oh never mind those are her legs . . . . . =) Sorry couldn't resist Nevermind, back to discussion about the G50x and G70x arms --------------> Is your upper arm section pointing down while the lower points up in that vid?
  47. 1 point
    Hi Michael, As Jerry points out here, newer arms are coping with greater weight ranges. The G-50 adjusts, tools free, and on the fly, in seconds, from about 5 to 26 kg (11-57 lb). The A2 sled—weighing 5 kg (11 lb)—is just a reaction to this increased range. The base is really light, so if you fly a DSLR, you don't have to add a weight cage; just use a half battery below, and some balance weights above. For the majority of cameras, the balance weights are unnecessary, though you can use them to increase pan inertia if you want to keep the rig compact. Between 12-18 kg (26-40 lb) camera packages, you add the weights below. So yes, the U2 has a heavy base for—among other reasons!—balancing heavy cameras. With 4 balance weights on the base, the A2's base weighs something more than a Clipper's, and less than an Ultra's. I hope this answers your question. I'm happy to answer more. All the best, Chris
  48. 1 point
    Better late then never... Hi Charles, There are a couple of companies that do Arm and Spring maintenance/upgrades/modifications... Robert Luna of course but also: - Daniel Sauve - Howard Smith (MK-V) - Hugo Langer and his Silver Spring conversion (Rig Engineering) - Tiffen (They still have springs in stock for the 3A/EFP Arm, last time I checked) Spring Color: Median Load: (+/- 2.5lbs) Red 37 Green 40 Blue 45 Black 51 Gold 54 EFP 24 to 39 lbs 3A lightweight 29 to 47 lbs 3A standard 37 to 57 lbs Master Broadcast 40 to 57 lbs Master Film/Elite 42 to 67 lbs I'm also including the Master Arms as in the past people have substituted 3A springs with Master Springs to reach higher load capability. I hope that helps. Erwin Landau, SOC www.landaucamera.com
  49. -1 points
    pretty weak lineup and it's not like we won't see those exhibitors at Cinegear the previous two days
  50. -1 points
    Sooooo optimistic, good luck mate!!!

  • Create New...