brett.mayfield

I am curious as to how you got power from the battery to the ACE on the directors cage. It this with the battery wedge you mentioned? I also would be interested to know if the mounting accessory is ACE specific or would work with teradek sidekicks. good write up, ive been fine-tuning my director monitor situation and I like what you have done here. brett.

Talk to John Ritter, he does the best for batteries.

Wasnt there a triangular system created sometime ago by Hill or a similar mind?

what would be rad would be a battery plate and mount for the sidekick for these. now its up to someones ingenuity...

sing and varizoom have this battery which has a DC out. surely a teradek cable could be made, I bet that the battery may have a lightweight plate available or a small mounting cafe could be machined to couple the battery and the sidekick. obviously that beans having two sets of batteries for an AC monitor, but it's a pretty lightweight solution http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1001133&gclid=CjwKEAiAi4a2BRCu_eXo3O_k3hUSJABmN9N1RV2c5y_kM6GP6MxzNIPcEnGJoix7k32nmiN3VBLoLxoC4S7w_wcB&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&Q=&A=details

I've kept it to Ptap. I usually provide a smallhd dp7 pro with AB mount and it stays running for hours. I have put an ikan cage on it (I don't love it, but its working for now, maybe three wooden Canberra version soon) and I attach the sidekick in one of a variety of ways. I have the cages for the Teradek 2000 so I tried one out with the sidekick and I just couldn't justify the bulk and lopsided nature of the mass when its handheld for the DP/director. the ikan requires a strange build, but it allows me to put a quick release plate on the bottom which attaches to my Benro photo tripod. much lighter and easier to deal with than a c-stand, great for company moves because it compresses easily, plus an articulating head, and i believe safer for the gear. it allows the user to snap the monitor on and off. I usually designate the 2AC to handle it so that it's secure every time. would love another option for power though. I think that media blackout could probably conceive of something cool with the unisex plate, monster arms, who knows. not the best photo for displaying a recent build, but its the one I've got-

Hi yall When we flip the CineLive into 24v for using ARRI and other cameras, do the upper electronic switch out to 24v exclusively? I am having cables made for a Chrosziel MagNum receiver and am wondering if I need a 12v and 24v cable, or 12v only. The receiver does not care whether it receives 12v or 24v, it will push voltage independent of whats coming in. Try as I might, I have a difficult time understanding electricity. brett.

I reached out to Magnus at Heden and he told me the following about the M21VE-L : "The M21VE-L is an ultra compact, strong and superfast lens motor. It has double the torque of the M21VE. It has actually replaced the M21VE."

hey yall i have been loving and using heden motors for quite some time, as well as Preston DMs, but recently was thrown a Betz motor and liked that the cable could run flush with the motor itself, just keeping it more streamline and less poking out at anything. i didnt have a chance to put it through the paces, so i dont have a good sense of its capabilities when it comes to bigger lenses, tight barrels, cold days, etc. Does anyone have any notes or experience with these? I am in the market for 3-4 motors and would consider throwing one in the mix, but frankly Id be very happy to go with Heden again. Ive gone through the forum and theres little to nothing on these. Any experience using these motors with a CMotion, Chrosziel, or Preston that would entice or dissuade me from using? Also, any idea of price? And are the only serviced in Germany? Also, how does the M21VE-L perform? A thread was started but with no responses. If I get some more Hedens, itll probably be 1xM26 & 2xM21, but would entertain the L for an Iris motor or slick barrels. Is it just a smaller M21VE? have a good one! brett.

I did the whole shabang at once and really like it. Best yoke and mount Ive used yet. My only gripe, and this is really minimal, is that one of the arms impacts the 12/24v toggle switch on the cinelive's lower electronics, so i have to inch the quattro's center post base up a little. but whatever. love it.

what a steal. you put together a rad package here, grayson.

hmm...I'm hesitant to blame the cable if Terry made it. your jumper block is for Gen 4 correct? if you know how to use a multimeter, try taking it to the cable. I'm not sure...perhaps call Pro.

edit-i redact my question-was viewing on my phone and now on my computer my question is answered

with the new anamorphic update i couldnt even get a signal to my transvideo from the 2nd Mon out. I think it defaults to 6G and was stuck there. We did this in front of Sebastien from ARRI Canada though, and he seemed surprised, so maybe there will be a new fix soon.

Hey Chris Im no power expert, but I also own a CineLive and have tried to use the various power outputs in as many ways as possible. First, to address your Preston cable issue: preston makes cables, check their website in the downloads section. you can also check with Media Blackout or Terry West. I have two kinds of Preston power cables, the first is Ptap (I had a 12v Lemo to Ptap splitter made by Alan Rencher of Media Blackout) and then there is 12v Lemo (from CineLive) to Preston. Your rig has three battery plates, bottom front (bf), bottom back (bb) and top back (tb). BF and TB are 12v only and they provide power to your camera and accessories (aks) in 12v. the BB is auxiliary and provides 24v power to camera and aks. You lower junction box has three breakers: Cam, Acc/Aks, and Aux. In order to use power from any of your plates, you must depress the respective breaker. Cam and Acc will only supply 12v from BF and TB to your Camera and Aks, as noted before. the Aux breaker will allow you to send 24v power to the noted outputs, as well as to the Ptap labelled Aux on the right hand side of the lower electronics. be careful with this ptap - it has been known to fry a few recorders. If you are using electronics on the bottom of your sled, use the left-hand ptap (labelled Acc I believe, I dont remember...) but it is 12v always. While Alexa can technically run 12v, your sled cannot provide the proper wattage (I think thats correct...), so you will have to flip your switch from 12v to 24v. This will draw power from your Aux battery plate (BB, remember?!) and will provide 24v power to you camera and all of the 12/24v Lemo outs. Be sure that your electronics can handle this load. Teradek, preston, they are fine, they will regulate the power appropriately up to 31v I believe. Each power output is pretty much arbitrary, meaning preston doesnt need to go to any one of those in particular. But it would make sense to have the 3-pin lemo made for your Preston, as there is more than one on your sled and it is more or less standard. I wouldnt recommend the hirose, but that being said, I did have a hirose cable made for my smallHD to run off the Hirose on the upper electronics. Generally, if you are going to have a cable made, you will say "I need a preston power cable for CineLive to MDR3" and the cable manufacturer will have the proper pinout diagram to make you a cable. But ask them any questions. I always do, because Im kinda ignorant when it comes to power. When I am running an Alexa, I tend to run the camera power from the sled in 24v, with my most serious battery (like an HCX if there are limited supplies) on the Aux (BB) plate and then I run my aks off of the sled rather than off of the camera. Generally, I will never have to change the Cam/Acc (BF, TB) batteries on a shoot day, maybe once. But the Aux (BB) will change throughout the day. You will need a CineLive/Alexa cable made (I always suggest duplicates). I also will use the Aux/BB plate as a spare battery holder and for extra weight/dynamic balance. When I am on the kind of set that is cart-less or we splinter off, I throw and extra battery on this plate, even when only in 12v, because i then have a spare battery that is actually working as balanced weight. great for extending the post and getting those floor-grazing walking shots with the CineLive's somewhat abbreviated post. then once the camera battery is wasted, swap your Aux battery to camera and youre still golden. have a good one! brett.

i like the nanoflash by convergent design. no monitor, but very small and light with a few mounting threads and easy with velcro. they are discontinued but usually available. in fact ive got an extra that id consider selling. they record to CF with a variety of codecs, etc. also converts SDI/HDMI. brett.

no its definitely not dynamically balanced. this was not on a shoot, but a day where we were flying through different configurations. I also wouldn't leave the antennae against my shoulder...

both cameras are 5 lbs, but Mini has 2xBNC and more. building for steadicam will depend on the cage, but they have been pretty similar cages so far. battery plate will be connected to 15mm support rather than an attached module like RED. this will give you space to put aks between camera body and battery plate. do not remove the antenna. I have used several different wireless options, but the best has been teradek 2000 with the AB mounts, so you can power camera and teradek and other aks from top battery. or run all the power through the bottom of your sled for a super minimal experience. no battery on top at all. makes for a very short sled, but could be worth it depending on what you're shooting.

same as amira power cable. every time I've used the Mini the battery plate does have a cable. haven't watched this video, but the power is as normal as you'd expect it to be.

also makes sense, LUTs are loaded in the long-range Rx, not the Tx, rite? I'm interested to see how teradek approaches this considering that. could load LUTs through monitor if using something like a DP7. so far though, I love the sidekicks and have been able to really surprise clients in Atlanta where there are so few 2000s anyways. setup was extremely easy and the bolt manager worked really well, less to deal with than in the past. I'm pretty hooked. brett.

is this one of the early serial "urban camo" atlas arms?

just wondering who got lucky in their vest and put up on the teradek homepage. hadnt seen a steadicam picture up there before, finally ripped down the movi picture brett.

hey yall i have a preston MDR 1 / HU 1 and am looking for some spare cables if youve got them. maybe MDR 2 cables would work, but Im not sure. I specifically need two motor cables, 12"+ Red Epic R/S cable (lemo, not BNC) have a good one brett.

hey Brian does the tx have pass through?

hey jens are your potentially parting out the super post and cables? brett.