Diggy Breiling

There's a Flyer LE with a Canon XL H1A on Orange County Craigslist.

Got one - Thanks

Newbie Here - Damn, $100 a day - what kind of an idiot would take that! I read previously that Steadicam Ops should make more than a DIT, as a newbie I didn't even know what a DIT was but I figured it was a "Dude In Tent". I think Nicks Suggestions were good. Perhaps post here on this forum which Craiglist Location or a link to the lowball offer is in an then everyone can go to it an Flag, a few could also send a polite letter also as suggested. I would also suggest posting some offers on Craigslist to work for real rates and resist the race to the bottom. If there are 4 or 5 offers for $2000 per day and none for $100 ( they get flagged ) they may get the point. Just a thought. Anyway, I'm not really in the business but have great admiration for the work you Pro's do. Keep up the quality!

So I'm watching this auction and someone just withdrew a high bid so I assume that I'll have to bid at least up to the previous high bid to win. I am concerned that there are No Batteries - I think those will be another $1200 with charger and its at least questionable whether the battery bracket will work when the fuse is replaced. My question is, Is it feasible to use this without batteries for a short time? Perhaps by attaching some type of weight.

Mark and All, Thank You for the detailed response, very much appreciated. Enough to convince me for now to wait until I can get a Flyer LE. I'll just keep my eye out, if anyone hears of one that available please let me know.

Ummmmm 450/1 is 450 Just saying Ahh $%^* my formula was wrong. Actually the formula for Contrast Ratio is: (DW - DB) / DB = CR (450 - 1 ) / 1 = 449 CR I was simplifying the math (not a big difference) but still did the full equation in my head.

I have a line on a Flyer that is in my budget. I like the idea of the LE version as it supports more weight. What are the other differences. I will be flying HDSLR and a XL-H1A. I am concerned about the H1A weight with accessories. Can the Flyer be upgraded to the an LE or otherwise upgraded to carry more weight? Are there other differences between the Flyer and Flyer LE? Kind Regards, Diggy (If this discussion is elsewhere please point me to it, my search did not return the result I was looking for)

450 Nits sucks in direct sun.... Just saying Just skimming this thread a little more. To clarify this issue. 1. Nits don't matter (much), Contrast Ratio is what matters - Contrast is what we humans see. Specifically we are concerned with High Ambient Contrast Ratio, what we see on our monitors in bright (sunlight) environments. Whatever the light output from your screen is, it is competing with the light reflected off of the front surface. In slightly simplified terms, in a very bright environment reducing the reflection by 50% will have the same effect on contract ratio as doubling the brightness. The front polarizer on the LCD screens will have a 4% reflection unless they already have a AR coating. It is possible drop this 4% reflection down to about .4%, a dramatic improvement (and no more power draw or heat buildup) Sunlight Level (SL) = 10,000 Display White (DW)= 450 Display Black(DB) = 1 Reflection ( R)= 4% DW / DB = CR 450 / 1 = 449 (DW + ( R * SL )) / (DB + ( R * SL )) = HACR ( 450 + ( .04 * 10,000 )) / ( 1 + ( .04 * 10,000 )) = 2.12 HACR ( "Sucks") Now change the front surface reflection to 0.4% (DW + ( R * SL )) / (DB + ( R * SL )) = HACR ( 450 + ( .004 * 10,000 )) / ( 1 + ( .004 * 10,000 )) = 12 HACR ( Acceptable ) Both the 2.12 Contrast Ratio and the 12 Contrast Ratio are at 450 nits. To get the same effect on HACR with Nits you would have to be over 4000 nits. 2. There are true transflective display, these are a reasonable choice for sunlight applications. Adding a "Transflective Film" is not the same as a transflective display, the term transflective film is actually misleading, I suspect they are adding a DBEF film and/or a ESR film. (Google Vikuiti DBEF and ESR for more information). 3. Sun Angle - We have two primary types of reflection, 1. Specular - this is mirror like, you see a image. 2. Diffuse - This is like a white wall, very reflective but no image. We can trade specular and diffuse reflection, by increasing one we reduce the other. By having a matte front surface the diffuse will increase and the specular will decrease, by having a glossy front surface the specular will increase and the diffuse will decrease. There are trade off here and no best solutions, which flavor you like depends on you and your environment and what looks best under the sun may not be what looks best on a brightly lit set with multiple lights. For the sun I would suggest glossy (with Anti-Reflection) and for the studio set I would suggest glossy (with Anti-Reflection). There are many more nuances to reflection, brightness, and contrast that effect how a display looks when in use, but these are some of the basics. The most important concept is to lower your reflection for the greatest gain. Kind Regards, Diggy

Last week I received my SmallHD DP6 and while I am very happy with it at first I was not happy about the level of reflection and glare. I added a HEA2000k-matte anti-reflection film to it and now it is much better. I took the display outside and could see it well on a sunny day. I would be able to modify this or other displays or provide the film if you want to do it yourself (I would do a better job as I would do it in a clean room and have experience.) I'm in Orange County if your interested. I recently sold my company Flat Panel Display Solutions which did glare reduction and ruggedization for marine, military, and aerospace so making monitors look good is what I know. Feel free to google HEA2000 and my former company will come up as FPDSolutions.com, If you enter it directly it will go to the company that purchased me and not the HEA2000 link. I'd be happy to barter mods on display for some pro guidance in my Steadicam progression. Kind Regards, Diggy

Steve, Yeah, I've bid on that one. It seems it has a small problem that the battery mount does not work, seller says it just the fuse. Straight DC should be no problem. Do you know if there are electronics built into the battery mount or just a switch and fuse? Anyway I've got $5 to $6K set aside and am looking for the best deal I can get on quality gear. It seems these things don't get sold too frequently. Kind Regards, Diggy

I'm in Orange County, CA and looking to buy a used Flyer LE for use with a Canon XL-H1A and Canon D7 (plan to add a 5D in the future). Please contact me at diggybreiling (at) me.com or (five zero three) 803-9363 Kind Regards, Diggy