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Twojay Dhillon

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Posts posted by Twojay Dhillon

  1. Hey All. Hoping somebody can shed some light and possibly offer a fix to the following:

    I'll set the rig up, balance, yada yada yada. Walk to one. Operate the first take. Operate the second take. Then as I'm walking back to one I'll notice that the Volt has decided that the level is now a bit to the left or right of the center which was previously set. Sometimes more than a bit to the left or right. Sometimes it's way off. 

    Annoying AF. Constantly asking for 5 seconds when I'm settling into my 1. 

    The AD's and I now have an unspoken language where I pretend I'm Sterling Archer and just hold up an index finger to denote the Volt is currently being told where center is. 

    It happens regardless of whether I have thrown the rig on my shoulder or not. I rarely hand my rig off to the grips, so that's a non-factor. All bolts/screws/do-hickeys are tight. And I have upgraded to the latest firmware.


  2. On 12/12/2018 at 5:19 PM, Stirling Bancroft csc said:

    Jerry, thanks for you thorough reply!

    What are guys doing for a Moses pole for the M1V?

    Stirling Bancroft csc

    Stirling, what's up man?! I am working on this right now. looks like I can buy the fork separately and then mate it up to the magdock bit from a Hill MagDock. I'll let you know what I come up with. 

  3. 11 hours ago, Tom Wills said:

    The simple answer is to swap out the post in the low mode bracket and add in one with the hole in the correct location for the Tiffen handle. The Tiffen handle's hole placement is fine by me, and I've had no issues with my low mode brackets actually having both holes (one for the Tiffen hole placement, one for the PRO). Seems far easier to me (and easier to swap out if something should fail) than drilling on the rather expensive Tiffen gimbal handle.

    Hey Tom, hope all's well out there in VortexVille! I was initially toying with the idea of punching another hole in the low mode posts but thought that might somehow compromise the integrity. I'll give one armpost a go with your technique and report back. Cheers.

  4. Has anybody found a workaround for the incompatibility of the Volt's gimbal handle and low mode for GPI PRO users?

    The cross drilling on the Tiffen handle is perpendicular to the way PRO armposts (and, consequently, the low-mode handles and offset handles) are drilled. 

    The Tiffen handle has some pretty thick walls -- if a workaround isn't available I think it's time to jam out to Sal & The CNC Machines.  

  5. Hey all. Seeing if anybody makes a Preston MDR Mount in the style of the Cinema Hardware item, but one that can convert between the MDR2 thickness (chunky-monkey) and the MDR3 (been on the diet coke and flu diet) thickness.


    I am assuming that would be accomplished by switching out the side panels for lack of a better way of wording it.


    Pass-through power a must.




  6. Hey all. Apologies on the delayed response -- I've been working and my schedule's been going from days to nights and then back again. The machinist had a bit of a health hiccup and was ordered by the docs to rest and take it easy. As a result there is a delay in getting the brackets out. I'm done with my current shoot on Thursday and will pop into the shop on Friday to hopefully QC the first batch and give the thumbs-up. Will keep you updated here. Cheers.

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  7. MDR 2 G4 w/ Blue Dot Upgrade S/N 1201

    G3 Receiver Board

    Sony Hirose 12v to FIZ pwr

    ARRI 24v 3 pin to FIZ pwr
    Pana/PRO to FIZ pwr X2
    11 pin ARRI 12v to FIZ pwr
    P-Tap to FIZ pwr
    DMF—Canon HD 1238
    SONY VRT 4435
    AATON 4524
    RED Digital 4543 (for original RED ONE)
    ARRI 3 pin 4521
    Panavision 4522 (5 male pins, 5 female on camera side)
    I'm on the westside of L.A.. Prefer local deal. Paypal add 3%.

    I'll be at The Camera Division tomorrow morning; if you're in the area and want to check it out swing by.








  8. I've used this without any issues whatsoever for the past 6 or so years.


    As the pictures show, Ross Judd was the prior owner. This piece of kit has been around and it is absolutely rock-solid. Mount it to speed rail, a Mitchell Mount, or some other manner the grips come up with :) This Mitchell mount has an array of tapped holes where you can put a key-way.




    I'm on the westside of L.A.. Prefer local deal. Paypal add 3%.


    I'll be at The Camera Division tomorrow morning; if you're in the area and want to check it out swing by.









  9. Having my machinist make me a few 15-degree-offset lowmode handles/brackets. I believe he will be making them in batches of twelve. I need 9 more units to be spoken for to get the ball rolling.

    These are, indeed, the indentical handles that Tom Gleason of Cinewidgets made. He no longer makes them and has sent me the files so I can make this amazing piece of kit available for other Steadicam Operators to benefit from.

    Handle/Braket only. Will not come with an armpost.

    Price hasn't been set in-stone yet, but back in 2011 the price was $150 with tax. We'll try and keep it in that ballpark.




    EDIT: I originally posted the price as $244.xx which was a mistake. Tom Gleason got a hold of me and relayed the correct price. Apologies.


  10. Marianne,


    I shall give this a shot later today or tomorrow.


    On a side note: Is there a way to set the user-defineable-button to be a "standby" shortcut? Like the standby buttons we had on our CRTs a long time ago? Quite literally to turn the screen off but keep the settings as they are?


    If it is doable, would you please walk me through the steps to set this up; if it is not currently possible, could that functionality be added in a future firmware update?


    Thank you :)

  11. My $0.02: Whichever way you operate -- goofy or regular -- you ultimately want to land/settle with most of your weight on your back foot. Since I am goofy, I try to keep almost all static weight on my back/right foot.


    This is analogous to keeping the majority of weight on the back foot in martial arts. The reason being that the front/lead foot can very quickly be repositioned for a move (in the case of martial arts -- a strike or defensive move).


    Add to this the fact that you ALWAYS want to start and end a move by pushing/pulling on the gimbal. As Mike stated above, this pre/post gimbal action can be mere milliseconds in duration. Or longer. Sometimes much longer. That's where you as an individual, and the actual shot you are shooting, will deviate from the median of whatever this hypothetical bell-curve of gimbal vs. operator movement is.


    Hope this helps.

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