Richard James Lewis

Ohh and also try doing the pan test but turn the rig really, really slowly as you reposition it. Also if you are using a video camera with a sony plate then thats probably causing some issues too. The XCS gimbal is so sensitive that it caught me off guard after coming form a V2 MK-V. Lots of little things that didn't matter before now do!

It's not a matter of it being out of line, it's about movement caused by all three mating pins possibly not being the same height, mixed with tolerances with the threaded post ring. Make sure to rock the top stage for and aft in relation to the post as you tighten down the ring once the opposing threads are covered with plumbers tape, and the issue should go away. I will get an engineer to have a look at the issue and find a more permanent solution when i have time. Good luck! R

I think I know exactly your problem. I too have had the same issue with my PRO / XCS conversion, and I'm surprised that this hasn't been discussed before. I thought my gimbal was misaligned too. It went back to Greg a few times to be checked. The issue i found is with the interconnection between the PRO and the XCS post. I feel that there is some mechanical discrepancy with the thread pitch on the ring and also the XCS post end. Try taking off the j box. If you settle it down on the 3 pins that go into the post, you might find that it rocks a little. One of the pins on the j box assembly may be longer or shorter than the others this causes it to rock. What i had to do was cover the threads with plumbers PTFE tape and then rock the top stage as i was tightening the ring down as you get tighter with the ring the rocking slowly disappears. I'm talking TIGHT. Since i did this the issue has gone away and i can swing and flip the sled around as much as I like and when I bring it back to static balance everything is still fine. I can work with a neutral drop time and doing 180 or 90 degree static balance tests everything stays absolutely perfect. It's a shame this is the case, because it kind of rules out the ability to swap out to super posts. I also found that having the gorelock docking ring around the locking ring would with repeated docking start to shift the ring and ultimately lead to the play returning, so that's now back on the post. I'm not really sure who is at fault here. Maybe if i changed the J box to one with 3 level pins in the connection them my issue would vanish, but because it's not an all PRO sled I can't really go to jack and make a presumption about a defect as I'm mixing manufacturers, although i expect the play has something to do with it. Try wrapping the threads with plumbers tape and see if it sorts it out. Good luck! Rick.

Interesting to see the change over to the 2B connector for camera power. I wonder if this, along with some more chunky wiring internally is the way the film sleds from PRO are all heading...?

Great news Chris! Very excited to know it will all soon be coming together. Do you have any pictures or further information on the exterior digital bubble sensor at all? Best, Rick.

I suspect it's a small amount of twist in the arm that does it. Both Eric and Robert work front mounted. I did some experimenting the other day. I hard mounted the rig to remove the human element from the equation. I tired mounting it in the Klassen orientation and I tried mounting it in the traditional orientation. I balanced the socket block with the arm post friction locked off. I was able to pull the handle in any direction within reason and the sled would remain floating in the area above a mark I placed on the floor. This shows that the socket block was correctly balanced. Once friction was released the handle would still flick back out. The Klassen seemed to always try to kick back out away from what I saw. There was no amount of socket block balancing or tweaking that would change this. I tried it in the traditional orientation albeit in goofy (I didn't flip the socket block around), and from what I saw the handle sits naturally towards the body more when released and balanced, giving the impression that its under control. I can't see how you would be able to have the handle stay anywhere you put it with the arm post loose. If you were to push the handle away from you or pull it into you the spring in the socket block assembly for front mounted operators would push the arm back out to where it sits naturally taking the gimbal handle with it. Even more so with a longer gimbal handle. I agree that with it loose it might stay in the same orientation as you are used to tho, depending on how you have the arm mounted. Happy to have some feedback from anyone else using a back mounted harness in a "regular" position with a PRO arm. Best, Rick.

I took a video this morning. The socket block was all balanced as you can see in the video by how the sled is neatly floating. No real socket block tweaking in a comfortable range made any real difference. Posture is fine. I'm using a 6" arm post too here.

I had a pair of these until I lost one. It's getting chilly here now, so I may have to re invest. Flip them over and cover your fingers when waiting around, then pop them back when you have to go to work. http://www.outdoordesigns.co.uk/products_gloves_konagripconvertible.html

I thought this as I was writing it. I have textbook posture and can happily walk around hands free. To my knowledge this has aways happened. Most arm posts have a little bit of bend in them, maybe I have only consciously tried this with the longer ones. I agree with the points raised tho. I shall try today and see what happens. My other suspect would be that I always have used a back mounted vest, i wonder if some twist is incurred in the arm, if only a small amount that causes this. I remember it happening with my old G-50 too.

I tend to keep it locked. With it free you are constantly having to pull the gimbal handle back towards you. It puts a force and exertion on your hand that I don't find particularly comfortable to work with. Logic would suggest that it's another point of isolation that would help with dissipating movement, but from what I experienced I felt that it added something more side - side as you try to keep the sled in control with your non operating hand. Almost a fight with the machine as it were. Just my thoughts. Rick.

I have a bunch of Gold mount PAG L95E's. They are relatively cheap, and for what I tend to power with them they are more than adequate. I use productions batteries to power cameras using a variety of different interchangeable power modules on my pro3 base. The PAGlok connector is solid, but from my experience can be more fragile and I had a few failures when i was using them. Plus I found with it being less popular people struggle to work out how to take them off / put them on properly. Rick.

Try a PRO arm? Years of trouble free use.

I've been a busy boy for over 6 years now. I've never had to swap over. It's like doing calligraphy with your non writing hand. It won't ever be as good. I'm not paid for average operating. More power to you tho.

It's taken years to get as comfortable and as I am now in regular. I've never had to swap sides, and I wouldn't compromise myself by doing so. No matter how much practice I'd put in it would never work. I haven't had a situation I haven't been able to overcome.

Gosh Chris. Those numbers are astounding. Have you thought of swapping the arms out for something more reliable and less prone to failure? Rick.

As far as I can tell it's a essentially a cut down universal without the leatherwork and a bit of flex in the front door? For $500 less? Not totally sure of the appeal really. I love the crew there at Klassen, but i don't think it's anything that's going to change how you work. Just really a cost / aesthetic choice. For $500 more, I think I'd rather have the nice leatherwork. I won't be swapping my Traditional in a hurry. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Best, Rick.

I imagine the bodged monitor mount for that monitor is causing the issue. The mk-v monitor arm isn't the best really, unless its fully in. At mid extension and even with everything tight you can feel the play and you are able to flex the bars up and down. I had the V1 and still currently use the V2, but I have a very light monitor at the moment until i swap to the Cinetronic, so it doesn't cause an issue. You could try opening up the monitor casing and screwing through into it. (a plate of your making to be used to sandwich the chassis and screw into on the other side) The two screws that are designed to be used aren't currently, so this is a weak connection and will be causing the flex. Also try loosing the battery of the monitor. While we are on the subject... I had an mk-v 2 stage 2" post and gimbal and actually it was fine. I moved to the XCS which has a much stiffer post. With the mk-v if you over tightened a gorelock ring you would crush the post and prevent the inner post from extending (like with most other carbon and Ali posts) This doesn't happen with the XCS. It's much more solid due to its cross wound construction. The XCS gimbal in my opinion is much better too. More sensitive, responsive and less forgiving. It's a world apart from my mk-v and needed a bit of getting used to but now makes for much better operating. I moved from MK-V to XCS because I wanted a company that would respond to my questions and emails with thought, care, insight and intelligence. As opposed to just being ignored. Realising that the equipment was superior was a second bonus. Best, Rick.

I'd start by checking that the glued and pinned end plugs in the carbon fibre post are solid. Also check all 4 screws that attach the top stage to the post are tight. Rick.

Straight connector is fine Tom. RJL

I bought mine through Optical Support who have been very helpful if anything has ever gone wrong (warrantee repairs) All done in house, no need to ship units bak to the US. Most focus pullers I meet still prefer the Preston. The lens mapping is really great, and once people know how to use it they agree that its the best way to do things. EDIT: I did go with the Heden motors tho 26VE, as I prefer them over the Preston ones. They are easier to mount and more compact/ lighter. Rick.

http://www.theflashcentre.com/california-sunbounce-windkiller-mobile-pro-complete-i4459.html Says out of stock tho. Give them a call.

While we are on the subject. I haven't lost link before, but at least once a day I have to power cycle the MDR to get the system to find a host when initially powering up. Once working tho all is fine. But i may have an issue later when the system is powered up again. This is with G4 HU-3. Anyone had similar issues? Rick.

€95 new from http://shop.artemis-hd.com/

I have V-Mount and AB Mount modules for my Gen 3 base. Allows me to mix and match, and be very adaptable using which ever flavour of batteries come with the camera package instead of rinsing mine! Rick.

This is how I have been working with the Codex of late. Very neat. All powered off the one 24v Arri cable and a mass of RS sockets. I used my XCS AB accessory plate to mount the Boxx to the top of the camera with dual lock. Pardon the sideways-ness! EDIT: I can't add pictures. I've maxed out some kind of "global upload quota" Rick.