Richard James Lewis

GPI are making a new batch of Gen3 covers. Get your name on the list. :) Best, Rick.

And the Steadicam® Ultra2 is the lightest, toughest, strongest, most advanced "big rig" on Earth. Apparently... Glad you are happy Kaan. Rick.

If only I knew what we were talking about.

This is also how I separate the weights. I have a special towel just for this purpose. Don't forget to cover the threads in Lisigav upon reassembly. Rick.

Brett, It's the heli coli in the plastic thumb screw. They always back out and jam up. I've had a few go. Someone has probably over tightened the motor onto a rod at some point. To quick fix: Use some pliers to remove the tiny domed cap screw that is on top of the plastic thumb screw. This is a reverse thread screw so it goes the other way than you expect. Once removed loosen off the plastic thumb screw, and snip the excess heli coli insert off so it sits as flush as possible with the plastic. Then flip it over and wind it on so it's upside down. This should give you some more life out of it. Re assemble and you are back working. You can either re heli coli it yourself, or speak to Heden and ask them to send you a replacement screw (pennies). They kindly sent me one a few weeks back, and a day or so later that one had jammed up too. Just the luck of the draw i think. I love the Heden motors, but this seems to be something they could address by changing the design a little. Buying a whole new clamp is just silly. You would have thought someone could have advised you that this was not necessary. Hope this helps. Rick.

Alec. Did you ever get one of those rod adaptors that we made a few of a while back that slotted into the XCS plate? That could have made your ring light situation a little easier...

Thanks Ant. I've used Scotchgard waterproofing spray on the arm covers. This seems to have done the job. Still curious about the Gen III base covers tho... Rick.

Has anyone any more input on this matter? Best, Rick.

So have a set of the Tiffen rain covers for my PRO arm, and I feel they really don't meet the minimum requirements needed to class themselves as rain covers. I don't know what they are made of, but they just let water through the material, you take them off and the arm is glistening wet. Are the Camera Essentials covers any good, or are they identical to the Tiffen ones? I'd hate to buy another set to find out they are as problematic. Also, does anyone know if the camera essentials XCS base battery cover would be appropriate for a PRO III battery base with an XCS post conversion? I'm bored of the hassle of cutting up polly bags whenever it starts to rain... Which in England is more frequent that not. Appreciate any advice. Best, Rick.

A gimbal is either centred or not centred. The sled would make no difference at all. Complete misinformation. Rick.

Thanks Jens, any pictures around? Initial impressions?

What's the current news on this, was there the new housing at Cine Gear? Pics, reactions? RJL

I agree, go PRO. The Tango as lovely an idea as it is won't make you any money. It has a very small market, If one at all. Rick.

Don't touch the gimbal. David with all due respect I'm not sure how helpful "fiddle with the screws a bit" really is, especially with a gimbal design that you are not familiar with. Sometimes its better not to say anything, unless you are really sure. Alan tell mk-v the problem and then send it back. Very best, Rick.

What rig do you have?

Plus I can't see any good reason to use this lens on Steadicam...

If you mean the 17-80, then I supported this lens with the XCS plate and the bracket I designed. I think you have one too Tom? Worked fine. RJL

I think we just don't know why you are posting this footage. If you have no questions and you aren't requesting some sort of critique then what are you aiming to achieve? Newer people are welcomed, but do understand that we are all full time operators, this isn't a DV video forum for hobbyists. If you have a question then I'm very sure people would be more positive and supportive in response to your posts, but otherwise I suspect the majority of use don't really have any interest in watching your Merlin footage. Rick.

Something of what you are looking for here... http://www.steadishots.org/shots_detail.cfm?shotID=304 Rick.

Are issues with this super monitor starting to appear? I've been waiting for about 9 months to buy this Cinetronic. I've just been stalling for now until the newer, smaller one comes out. I really need a digital bubble in my life. I did some tests with the Transvideo 8" HD and the old UltraBrite the other day. The UltraBrite won hands down out of the two of them in direct sunlight. 1000 nit v 1400 nit. Neither were truly astounding tho. I can only expect the 1500 nit Cinetronic to be slightly better than the UltraBrite no? Should we worry about the life span on these things. I know that Tiffen messed around with the older SD monitors that were 500 nit, and boosted them to 700 nit. I've heard from various people that these screens didn't last more than a few years. Fortunately mine is still working at the moment. Are Cinetronic driving these panels harder than they should be to get that extra brightness? Has anyone had any issues with their monitors at all? I'm totally up for this change over to the Cinetronic, and I have been in touch with Chris for a while now, and he has been nothing but prompt and helpful. I'm sure if there were an issue he would be there to help. Just thought it was worth a bit of discussion tho. Rick.

Why on earth would you buy an ergo handle that is not ergonomic! That's just crazy talk. Why even bother at all. Just go get one from Greg for regular side operating surely? Rick. I operate normal, non-goofy, but I have used a goofy side Ergo handle once and it actually worked OK. How much do you want for your goofy-side Ergo handle? Randy Nolen

I see your point, but in reality it doesn't make that much of a difference to me. I use the XCS plates for everything so the extra 1/4" from this plate is fairly insignificant, plus it seems that only with this design can you have a really solid lock on the back tie down point without having a massive lip on the end that prevents you from positioning the plate right at the back (if you should need to) I'd probably pop the codex down at the base of the rig anyways, no point having that much weight up there. Best, Rick.

Ron, Why do you need the Arri MDR on there if its an Alexa plus? Just curious. Rick.

As I posted in a previous thread. I am using one made by Optical Support, which works great, and is very light. Rob, this solution is lighter than the Sony plate, and is rock solid. Plus if you want to use the Sony plate you have to make sure the kit comes with the WA-1 Wedge Plate Adaptor, or it won't work. Rick.

More...