kelso kubat

Stabilized. you can see the cropping every so often. another way of telling is the warping in the corners...

hahahahaha clever trevor... i guess i got a long way to go before i hit 10,000,000 posts and become master. dont hate on glassblowing. i know alot more poser steadicam people then glass artists. in fact idk a single one. 10-4 on the come back

im sorry but as a whole tiffen/steadicam is the only rig i want... recently got to fly the new Zephre and i really dig it. the arguement can go on all day why one is better then the other... but WHY would you personally choose one over the other?

i dig it... bollocks

don't eat cheese before noon....

i have heard of this vibration but have never experienced it myself on my Pilot. like stefano said go down the check list. get in the habit of setting up with a specific routine. you also could be "flying light" what camera are you using?

sometimes i get a knot in my shoulder. but i broke my collarbone a few years back and ever since it has always annoyed me... if youre having pains get yourself one of them wizard sticks, so you can relax during breaks between takes. it might help save your back during downtime when shooting. i do this just to save energy on long, hot days.

i did a shot like this recently where a guy comes out of a warehouse, gets on his harley and drives to another location, gets off and goes inside a second location. All one take. we had an SUV parked next to the harley and i just sat on the bumper while 3 guys held me in position. i have only tried a car mounted rig once, but have done a few of these walk-on sit-on type shots. have you ever tried doing a walk-on? a little harder but worth it!

ultra2 with a 5d? dang i bet you had to really load up the sled for that little 5d!

NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER buy a GLIDECAM.... P O S 100% first and absolutely foremost ... glidecam doesnt allow the gimbal to be moved... you will never achieve dynamic balance with a glidecam and if you do i feel bad for how much time that must have taken... STEADICAM is the one and only rig... not only that the Zepher is one of the latest redisigns. the x-22 is just a crappy knock off of their other crappy rig the Smooth Shooter... lets put it this way... comparing the 2 rigs is like saying a ferarri and a ford taurus are equally the same because theyre both cars... which one are you gonna drive. me too Proud Steadicam Owner

what your saying is blasphemy.... i dont even know where to begin. flyerLE for RED is 15 k - pilot is around 5000 if you actually want to use it... what you said makes no sense and is pretty dumb.

ok man... I'm a newbie myself but i feel there is a lot of misinformation going around... people are feeding pieces of infromation but you need to understand them as a whole to grasp the concept of dynamic equimibrium quickly and effiently. the steadicam pilot video everyone is posting is decent instructional video but doesnt really "teach" you how to get any closer to achieving balance without a bunch of trial and error. so.. Find the CG of your camera. its center of gravity. i use a ruller, so does the video... after you have found its CG, line that point (CG) as close as you can to the center of your stage plate. not the screw itself but the center of gravity. this means you'll probably be mounting you camera towards the ack of teh stage. nowput your stage in a 50-50 position i like to call it. dead even in the middle on both axis. move your batter all the way to back, and your monitor wherever you prefer it... now adjust the lower spar to balance hte monitor and the battery. ( NO CAMERA ON SLED YET), now mount your stage up. with the camera mounted and secure tip the rig to 90 degrees and loosen the gimbal screw. position you center post so you have a 2-3 second drop time. i personally prefer about a 2 1/4 drop time. 3 will be very sensative and if your starting off your want a little more weight. 2 second is good, remeber a little over is fine but under is going to cause more wobble when you move the sled. KEY NOTE: try to weight up" your rigs sled to just under its maximum lift. this will better insure staility in your rig. merlin weights work good but for cameras under 5 lbs you may need more weight yet. so, get more merlin weights at 25 bucks a weight or be creative. but be safe. dont jsut scotch tape some crap to your camera. wahtever you add needs to be well secured and firmly in place. adjust the top stage screws until you have achieved static balance. use your bubble levels to insure absolutet static balance. Steadicams do not come with these bubbles you need to add them. i have pictures of my steadicam setup which you can view and compare.... give the sled a spin? is wobbling? is so pay attention closely to the direction of teh tilt. hold the rig in a 90 position with the battery and monitor alos turned 90. or parrell to the floor. let it go... does it fall to one side. meaning does the nose or tail drift to side as opposed to the other? adjust the top stage again, keep in mind it is essential that cameras CG be 1/2 inch behind the center post, try to keep it in that general area. if you need to adjust more the 2 or three revolutions of the stage plate fore and aft nobs then you base is off. again compensate by adjusting the lower spare. LEAVE your batter and monitor alone! especially the battery. slide the spar until the balance get better. when fine tuing adjust your monitor slightly. we're talking like fractions of an inch! better worse? it is important to know what to adjust and a what time. remember to keep the CAMERA CG 1/2 inch behind the center of the center post. use the SPAR to make most of your adjustments and fine tune the stage and monitor when needed! you'll get ti juspractice setting up different rigs until you're comfortable.

My link first flight on my new rig.... after years of trying to get the cash to buy one i finally got a Pilot !!!!!