chris fawcett

Hi Josip, Thanks for pointing that out. I now realise my own mistake. The monitor I refer to in the above post was in fact the 500 NIT one. It really did perform fine for me under the conditions I describe. Sorry for the confusion, Chris

With respect, Josep, I can't agree with this. If you mean the 700 NIT Flyer monitor, I think it is usable outdoors in bright sunlight. I've used it on a a few docs in high sun at low latitudes, and it was fine. All the best, Chris

Hi Thomas, The higher or lower you get in these modes depends on the length of the post the gimbal is on. It depends on how far you can slide the gimbal away from the stage. Because the C3 is a 3-post system, with the associated clamps and brackets that fit on each post, the individual post length is a good deal shorter than on the A2. A 3-post system (in the standard configuration) just lets you balance heavy cameras, something I prefer to do with the A2 balance weight system. To get really high and low, you need a super-post. Using the standard A2, without any accessories other than the balance weights, I can get min/max lens heights of 25/270 cm (10/106 in) given that the camera package does not approach the upper weight limit of the sled. The C3 is more robust, and will vibrate less under heavy loads, but I've not experienced that problem yet. The stage is the same as on the A2. You'll be delighted with either system, I'm sure. All the best, Chris

Great news! Happy new year!

Yea, me too. Anybody want to buy a nice new rig? I can't ask much for it, considering it's so dangerous, and badly designed. In fact, maybe someone could just take it off my hands. That's better than having to pay some Hazmat firm to dispose of it safely. Damn, just when things were going so well ;) Happy Holidays everyone!

MrMickeyMan the Disney Guru, says it all...

Thanks for a great workshop. I really enjoyed meeting everyone, new faces and old friends too. I wish you all a very happy holiday season, Chris

It is pocket size, you just need the special Swiss-Army trousers.

Yea, I agree with Aaron, and I know you are leaning this way yourself. When we get hurt, we often have one opportunity to fix ourselves properly. If you miss that opportunity now, you may end up with something that nags you for the rest of your life. As for all injuries, fix it now, that's the only smart thing to do I really feel for you, Brian, but look after yourself, and hopefully this will be history very soon. Fly safe, Chris

You mean the yoke handle? The part that fits on the arm post and is connected to the gimbal? Sure, beef that up by all means if you like. Wish I had a Pilot too. Chris

This is animportant point. The present diameter of the Pilot's gimbal grip is no accident. Chris

Like you :)

OK. I though it might account for the operating if they were slapping each other's hands off the gimbal.

Like, at the same time? ;)

Hi Brian, That was the original Flyer, and yes, 19 lbs was max. The LE's extending post called for slightly stronger arm springs. I doubt the present arm design will go further—the bones must be approaching their limits. I find it wonderful that you heft a RED on your Flyer! Can we see a pic? Fly safe, Chris

The original Flyer maxes out at just under 19 lbs of camera weight (that's with 2 x IDXs on the sled), making it a bit light for a RED. The sled actually weighs only 5 lbs without batteries. The LE might differ slightly. It's a great rig for the money. I paid for mine on the first Steadicam job I did, and had money left over to upgrade almost immediately. The only question the producer asked me before the shoot was "Is it a real Steadicam? I mean, does it have Steadicam written on it?" ;) I agree with the earlier comment that the Flyer is a super rig to practice on. You get a lot of flying time in a light rig—you hardly need to take it off. It's also so flighty, that you really train your gimbal hand. Good luck in your decision, Chris

Thanks for posting that, Jens. A certain director is going to see 'red' when I send him the link!

I'm a new convert to this heretical practice too. All it takes is a leap of faith ;) Chris

Great! See you in a couple of weeks for the workshop. My Belfastian brain is even more confused. Hey, what's wrong with a few cables outside the post anyway? Chris

Wise words, Robert. Anyway, money? Are you guys in it for the money? Isn't that just stuff you swap for cables? ;)

Ah, but SMB 75 OHM, or mini-SMB 75 ohm? The devil is in the detail. Are these plugs really so bad, apart from the obvious fact that we have to buy the bloody things? ;) Chris

A question: I'm ordering cables for my A2, and am confused about the SMB connectors. To go from the sled to a camera, for example, I need male BNC to female SMB, right? Now for the fun, are we talking SMB 50 ohm, SMB 75 OHM, or mini-SMB 75 ohm? Thanks! Chris

Hi Roger, I'm surprised you heard that. I've taught dozens of Tiffen workshops, and I don't remember any instructor expressing that opinion either privately or publicly. Fly (on the wall), Chris

Hi Guys, I wish I knew for sure, but the brackets come in 2 sizes 3.5” (88.9mm) rod spacing and 2.465” (62.611mm) rod spacing. I'm guessing that the rod diameters are compatible. You can measure the A1 rod spacing, or contact the Glendale factory. If they fit, the weight system would be handy for adding more weight below the post—though I'd guess you'd want to keep the total added weight under a kilo. What you won't be able to do (and this is what is so handy about the Accessory Balance Weight system) is increase pan inertia by much, but then, the A1 has pretty good pan inertia already. I think for the A1, a good solution is to add custom weights out the monitor bracket. The stock A1 already has two small weights added to the monitor bracket. (If you use light batteries, these are necessary to dynamic balance the rig. If you are using a standard IDX-type battery, they are superfluous.) It would be simple to screw heavier weights into these holes, then move the battery further back. That should increase pan inertia substantially. Another solution is to add weights (again, not too much—use your common sense here) further out the ends of the monitor bracket, even in line with the screws that hold the monitor in place. The battery rods are long enough to compensate for DB. The simplest solution of all is to wrap a diver's lead ankle bracelet around the bottom of the post, though watch out when you flip to low-mode ;) Chris

L-E, Assuming that your U2 stage is similar in construction to my A2 stage, you need to remove the grub screw, like you did, then take the rubber cap off the adjustment knob using a blade. Below this you'll see a hex nut. If it is loose, that might account for your noise. You'll need a VERY flat-nosed pair of pliers to reach it. Don't over tighten! Good luck, Chris