chris fawcett

Hi Victor,

I have also had exemplary service from Tiffen. They have Fed-exed stuff out to me in Amsterdam on a moment's notice.

All the best,

Chris

Smear vaseline on his spectacles.

I would be way too shy for that.

Check out this video:

http://www.laigleparis.fr/02%20Monter%20Setting%20up.wmv

I'll translate from the French "The first time you use this product, it is vitally important that you coat the components in fine dust"

Vive la République!

Oh come on guys, don't be so rough!

The bit that holds the gimbal is beautifully designed.

Good luck!

I hope you find a great teacher.

All the best,

Chris

Hey man, you got the shot! Anyway, being aware of what you are doing has got to be the most importany part.

Thomas, thanks for that. You undoubtably saved me a fused camera somewhere somewhere in the near future.

All the best,

Chris

Lars Erik!

It looks great. So there was no '3rd wire' up the post to the 3-pin lemo. It had to be added?

Also, I take it, your 2nd battery mount is hard wired. You can't remove it?

I'll probably do a 'quick and dirty' version with a similar mount, but wire it externally from the D-taps, so I can remove it when it's not in use. Cheapskate, I know.

All the best,

Chris

PS! I seem to remember when using the D-tap, this actually draws battery power from the camera battery, not the rig, even if your rig is giving power to the camera. I might be wrong, but last time I used the Sony camera I think that happened. So you should bring extra onboard battery and charger for this camera.

Spot on as always, LE!

Hi Gordon,

Since you will probably keep the battery on the camera for extra weight, the rear D-Tap will work. Once you plug a 4-pin power XLR into the camera, the battery mount, including the D-Tap is disconnected, to stop the external power supply?in this case, the rig?from charging the camera battery.

If you have no battery on the camera, but want to use the battery-mount D-Tap, drill out the XLR on your spare power lead where it engages the retracting pin within the XLR socket on the camera. Now the battery mount will not be isolated from the external power supply. Mark the lead, so you know it in future.

All the best,

Chris

Hi Lars Erik,

I'm back and away again! It's another busy year, by the looks of it. That's great news about the doc. I look forward to working on it with you.

So, your rig is where you want it to be now? Or do you have another mod up your sleeve? Can't wait to see the pics.

All the best for 2007,

Chris

Done. Hofmann of Sweden upgraded my rig to 24v. New battery attached to rods just under the post. 12v/24v option by button on the new battery plate.

Can't wait to see the pics, L-E. Glad you are such an innovator, it saves lazy peaple like me having to think too much!

All the best,

Chris

Hi Andrew,

I had a Flyer for years, and now an Archer SE. I tell you, I miss the Flyer sometimes. It's a truely great rig, and it will fly your camera perfectly.

Whatever you buy, please take a workshop. It's a false economy not to.

Check out these links for zoom/focus/iris control:

http://www.bebob.de/international/zoe-dvxl_eng.html

http://www.bebob.de/international/foxi_eng.html

All the best,

Chris

Hi Robert,

If you weren't adding weight for total inertia, a lighter weight mounted on the camera handle would achieve the same gimbal-stage distance, and hopefully not overstress the handle.

Without any added weight, the camera would pop up like a cork, the stage way above the gimbal to achieve static balance. Inverted for low mode, this configuration would get you closer to the mat without gorilla arms.

The lower and heavier the weight, in low mode, the higher the lens. No? These things seem so simple before the stand, and so theoretical sitting in a café watching a gale whip over the Giant's Causeway.

If you hadn't a G-50, you might have no choice but to use that weight just to trim the arm.

All the best,

Chris

Good for you. Fast work there!

All the best,

Chris

What's going down with Mark VI Selmers and Steadicams?

Me too.

Hi Erik,

We're practically neighbous. Fancy meeting up for a coffee sometime? Next week, maybe?

All the best,

Chris

I'm amazed and impressed by you folks. i'm an ex-circus acrobat that just about manages to operate in shoes.

Good luck, and be sure to post the results!

hmmm...I have a 30 minute assembly of that one and another Swiss doc that was made at a workshop about 10 years later, if someone wants to host it (I think I could compress it to about 200MB and it would look great) I'll FTP it to them.

I'll be happy to host it, Charles.

I'm busy this week, but email me, and we can work on it next week, if that's soon enough.

All the best,

Chris

Hey Guys,

A 25-hour birthday? Not bad!

Have fun,

Chris

Hi Sven,

Thanks!

Thanks, Erwin,

I'll publish the serial number if I come across one. Does anybody have one near where I live (NW Europe)? I really just want to have a good look at one, being very content with my my own vest. Call it a vest fetish.

Chris

Hi,

Wanted, a second-hand Pro vest in any condition, needed for tinkering.

Chris

But the security guy at LAX had no clue. Go figure.

The security guy I got at LAX had a clue. He recognised immediately that the vest and arm were for mountain biking, and I congratulated him on it. Figure that.

I find myself developing a pathological interest in the details of this crime. Details such as "what the f***?"

Please report me for my own good.

Hi Erik,

I'll be there for sure. I look forward to meeting you at last.

I guess we better steer this thread back on course now. Bloody good camera that XD, what?

See you!