Ryan Rodinis

Please delete. No longer available. Thanks!

Having to sell my rig for the time being, an unfortunate event but I'll get another one later. :\ Steadicam Zephyr SD with V-mount and Standard Vest (wired for HD for quick upgrade) Steadistand Original hard case, plus two custom Pelican Storm cases available if desired. Custom weightplate for flying DSLR's. V-mount 95 Wh battery dual V-mount charger All the original accessories packaged with retail are included. Looking for $10,500 (including the two Pelican cases), $10,100 without or reasonable offers. Will accept credit cards as well (plus the fee). Will ship domestic only. Everything is excellent pristine shape and has been well cared for. Will post photos in a reply. Cheers!

resolved.

I emailed Craigs and CC'd Peter. And for my situation, the screw is fine - it's the thread mount metal piece (where the screw screws into) that is WITHIN the blue clamp that is no longer able to turn to allow the clamp to close back down. Nothing seems broken, it just won't rotate within the blue clamp any more. The only solution I see is to have to use a Hex key to tighten and loosen each time I need to make an adjustment. :\

after two emails to the Tiffen guys, still no reply. Anyone have links/images/exact names of solutions that can be purchased online or at the hardware store? Thanks,

this is what I'm noticing: the metal catch with threads within the blue clamp is not rotating as it used to. it takes a lot of force to close it, even if I loosen the hex screw that tightens the grip of the clamp. the post length clamp works just fine. wonder if they are swappable.

something like this happened to me last night at the end of my shoot. it was difficult to tighten all day after going between low-mode and high-mode a few times, until finally before going to high-mode for my final shot (that i was unable to get, had to shoot it on fcuking sticks), the clamp would no longer tighten down - sounds like sand in the clamp/around post, like something's been grinding. going to take it apart today to check it out. not happy. at. all.

Does this help you? http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Adapters/3-5mm-Adapters/Lemo-USA/FGG-0B-303-CLAD35.xhtml?FGG-0B-303CLAD35

Hi Shawn, I'm no pro yet, but that is definitely acceptable from what I've been taught. If the entire shot requires this tilt-down, that is. If not, then you may consider slowing your drop time so that you can hold the tilt easily and still come back level easily as well. My two cents aren't worth as much as the others around here, but I thought I'd chime-in anyway. :)

the only shot that boggles me is the running shot with the three guys towards the end. you don't see much shock absorption from his running. running that fast with that thing is tough, I've done it. he's good.

I found that, on my last two shoots, the gimbal/post would make its way up to the top stage - the post clamp somehow loosened. I can understand maybe that first time, but even after I tightened it pretty well? Just ranting. Sorry. We'll see if it's a regular problem....

yeah, I found some stuff. just seems weird that an HDSDI monitor would be 4:3 format.

is it just me or is that 6.5" transflective monitor 4:3 and not 16:9? Is there a monitor that shows native 16:9 ratio with similar outdoor viewing capabilities? and thanks, I'll link up with Terry West.

Mark what's the model number of the transflective for that plug-n-play swap goodness? don't need any other adapters? just swap the plugs and screw it in?

so is there a single part from the gzoom unit I can get to add to the bartech kit? are you able to set min and max or a user spec'd range like on the bartech transmitter? thanks for the answers. I remember not seeing jack for info on the gzoom site.

Mark, can you detail your g-zoom a little more? I'm looking into possible gimbal focus controls. is it wired? can it be wireless, maybe running back to the vest instead of up to the sled? heden motor or can it transmit to the bartech receiver in case I want to be able to easily swap to a bartech focus transmitter instead of controlling from the gimbal? should this be in the follow focus section? ;) thanks,

Peter got the ball rolling again during the workshop. What an awesome guy. Turns out the loaner arm was out on demo and the customer was two months late in returning it.

I've actually experienced this. I'm pretty sure I tighten the dovetail screw enough, but I've also made an effort since then to let the gimbal rest on my shoulder instead of the top stage. And I've yet to receive my replacement arm from Tiffen. Really aggravating to have a noisy arm.

http://www.tuneupmedia.com/ Fix your iTunes, Automagically. I wonder if they actually first used it. What a fun word. :)

the center post is 24 3/4" without the 5/8" mounting post. 27 1/2" with it.

The iphone and the Square reader have really changed things. For non-corporate clients, I take credit payments up front to avoid any possibilities. squareup.com

Eric, can you confirm how you are doing this? gimbal handle on the balance pin of your docking bracket, without a 'mickey'? Everything else makes perfect sense, but this first step in my mind needs some clarification. Cheers Yes - use something to hold the sled on its side (not going to be frictionless without something like the mickey), with the monitor/batteries parallel to the floor. I imagine you can get close enough with just the side of your index finger. I used this method twice this week with good results. What boggles me is that, if I swap a lens and adjust the stage for fore/aft, I don't need to adjust the battery as I'll still be in dynamic balance, correct?

update: Tiffen is sending a loaner arm while repairing a suspected bearing that is popping in/out. will know more later.

I can't find any info on how long exactly the current version Tiffen SteadiStand is when fully taken apart for travel. Can anyone say? Thanks!

It's not a squeak but more of a clacking creak. If that makes sense. or matters. Thank you for the heads-up on the lube.