Tom Wills

While it is definitely possible to remove the Archer 2 stage (Tiffen is able to put Volt gimbals on it, after all!) it is not absolutely necessary to remove the gimbal from the post to clean the pan bearing. You can in fact remove the top cap of the gimbal and remove the pan bearing housing off of the gimbal grip, then wrap the top and bottom stages of the post in plastic trash bags and paper towels and spray out the bearing without having to remove anything. It will require a considerable amount more work since you’re working around the gimbal grip, and you will have to use more cleaner since you’re not going to be as readily able to spin the bearing, but it can absolutely be done. I did this procedure to fix a sticky pan bearing on Larry McConkey’s Ultra2 sled as well, which we didn’t want to fully disassemble.

I’ve been starting up a small maintenance shop in my workshop in New Jersey, doing maintenance and mods for quite a few operators. Obviously I can’t do warranty service, but for out of warranty repairs and maintenance and especially modifications, I’m happy to throw my hat in the ring if it makes sense geographically. If you’re on the west coast, I might check with the folks at Apex Cinema Gear, since I know they are working with Robert Luna who is an incredible resource for rig mechanicals (As well as both Justin and Stephen at Apex who do great work). There may be other resources (especially elsewhere in the world), and lead times may vary, but at least there are options!

If these are for a Tiffen M1/M2’s sled rods, I would use Zacuto rods. Tiffen standardized on the 1/2”x13 thread standard, which Zacuto is one of only a few companies to use, unlike most companies which seem to use the M12 thread standard. I source mine from B&H as I’m in the NY area, and they are findable as “Zacuto extension rods”

I would doubt that - the Flyer LE handle is a much thicker aluminum part with approximately 1/8” thick walls of aluminum, whereas the Pilot’s gimbal is a very thin bent aluminum tube, and seems like it would easily break under extended loads. The Pilot really was built down in weight so that the sled could be as light as possible. It’s actually quite impressive! But it does make sense that to save cost Tiffen would use the same bearings - they are a commodity part and only come in certain sizes anyways.

I’m hosting another end of year “yard sale” to clear out more of my storage space. Posted up currently is a ton of gear ranging from quick release plates and weight plates all the way up to Preston and Teradek gear, monitors, a Wave, and a ZeeGee. Lots of great deals to be had. More gear is likely to be posted soon! Check out my website below for the latest list of what’s available and more info. https://twsteadi.com/used-gear-yard-sale-2024

If you’ve heard of my “Blue Plate” riser plates, but haven’t picked them up yet, here’s your guide opportunity to pick up a set for 20% off before the end of the year. These plates raise the camera in 1/4” increments off of your top stage, and allow for both balancing rotating rigs like the Wave, Omega, Cyclo 1, and Trinity, but also for clearing the top stage with film cameras, allowing rods to clear the dovetail on low camera builds, and much more. They’re incredibly handy pieces of gear to have in your kit, and this is the cheapest I’ve ever sold them for! Kit includes 2 plates, along with screws to mount them. Easiest checkout and more info is on my website here: https://twsteadi.com/tw-rigworks-store/p/blueplate-riser-plates

I have a few of the brackets to go from MK-V junction boxes to Betz stage rods from upgrading some rigs a while back. Send me an email and I can sell you one. Tom.Wills.Soc@gmail.com

It sounds like the batteries were passing 24v through the normal 12v pins on your battery plates. The M2 as a rig is not designed for 24v batteries, and in fact if you switched the rig into “24v” mode would get 48v out of the 24v pins on the sled. Assuming that your batteries are 24v only and not “dual voltage”, when you put your 24v battery on, it is going to output 24v on all the 12v output pins on the sled. This could do damage to any electronics not designed as multi-voltage capable. This is a big problem, and could easily damage a camera or accessory - in fact I’m not sure if you’ve damaged your Volt since you put 26v into the input pins where it was expecting 12-16v. Again, unless your batteries are dual-voltage and smartly sense what type of plate they are on (like the Helix dual-voltage type) I absolutely would not use them on your rig!

Hello friends! In early May, Megan Masur, SOC organized a get-together of the NYC Steadicam Operators Practice Group where I lead a class on Steadicam Maintenance and Modifications. We recorded the class for those who could not make it, and also for broader distribution. Here it is, in video form, a nearly 50 minute video talking about the theory and practice of gimbal cleaning and lubrication. Please as always cross-reference my techniques with what is referenced from your manufacturer, and this information is presented without warranty and for educational purposes only.

No longer available. Thanks!

Sold quite quickly! Thanks!

This arm was purchased new in 2014. It has been my personal arm ever since and was never abused, and it still works great. It went back for service in late 2019, and has been remarkably trouble-free through its life, only having one part fail, which was replaced under warranty. I am reposting this with a crazy price drop, because I’ve had a lot of interest, but several buyers backing out for personal reasons (I get it - it’s an uncertain time!). I am asking only $12,000 for the arm and all of these accessories, which is a crazy deal, but I have a new arm and need this one sold before the end of the month. This deal will expire in 2 weeks! The arm includes 6 canisters, which means it can carry loads between 13 and 63 pounds - enough to carry almost any modern camera build. I am also including quite a few spares, tools, brand new parts, and upgrades, which you can easily swap in. I am including several of my own precision-machined Stainless Steel arm posts, which are much stronger and tougher than the original aluminum versions. The arm has special neoprene rubber bumpers on the center section to prevent vibration from moving down the arm when running, and rubber grip tape on the bones of the arm to allow for better grip, especially in cold climates or with sweaty hands. The arm also has an updated arm post friction system, which allows the arm post to be tightened more easily (with a tools-free Kipp handle) as well as having more friction available via a custom-machined sleeve inside of the arm. With a half turn of the Kipp handle, the arm post goes from completely free to fully locked, and can be set anywhere in between at a moments notice. Please note that the picture includes 8 canisters, but 2 have been removed from the kit, commensurate with the price drop. Please contact me via email at tom.wills.soc@gmail.com if you're interesting. Includes: GPI PRO Titan Arm Chassis # 639 4x Blue Canisters 2x Black Canisters 6” Arm Post w/ 2 Collars 8” Arm Post w/ 2 Collars 12” Arm Post w/ 2 Collars Spare Rod Ends and Screws for Socket Block (brand new) QR Pin for Socket Block Adapter (allows for quick switching from regular to goofy) 7 Spare Pivot Nuts (a part often lost if it loosens up in travel) 2 Spare Canister Pins Kit of standard spare parts (washers, clips, etc…) 2 PRO Arm Tools Soft Bag for Arm Soft Bag for Canisters PRO Arm 5/32” wrench

Bumping the post with a price drop - $15,000. An incredible deal for an arm this complete, with these accessories. I’m also willing to throw in a day of one-on-one Steadicam coaching for any new operator who buys this in the NYC/NJ/PA area.

Price drop for hopefully a quicker sale: asking $16,000 USD Contact me at tom.wills.soc@gmail.com

Hi Blaine, sadly it is sold!