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Tom Wills

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Tom Wills last won the day on January 10

Tom Wills had the most liked content!

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About Tom Wills

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/21/1990

Profile Information

  • Rig
    M1, Wave, PRO Arm, and Klassen Harness
  • Location
    Philadelphia, PA

Contact Methods

  • Website
    http://www.willsvideo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Jim Candreva makes the best camera screws around, and they’re very reasonably priced. https://www.jccamerasystems.com/screws
  2. The Blackmagic HDMI to SDI micro converter is fantastic, super stable, and $50 USD. Easily purchasable at any major camera retailer - B&H, Adorama, even Amazon. It’s powered off of a micro USB, which is easy to get an adapter from a P-Tap/D-Tap for, and power it off of your sled. I think it’s a little notch above a lot of the cheaper converters you can get off of Amazon and eBay, as I’ve had mixed results with those.
  3. I’ve had many problems over the years I’ve had my PRO arm with aluminum arm posts. After bending several of them, and one beginning to crack, I decided to start making Stainless Steel arm posts. I’ve had a local medical parts manufacturer create precision-ground stainless tubes that are exactly (to within +/- .0005” in diameter) .621”, the same as the arm posts that came with my arm. I can cut these down to any length you’d like, and can add holes for low mode brackets, or not, if you’d like. I’ve been running similar (turned instead of ground, so the finish wasn’t as nice as these) stain
  4. These were a (very expensive - around $1000 new) custom ordered set of wheels that I had Inovativ make for me. These wheels fit an American Steadicam Stand, and are the 6” wheels from the Scout 31”. The wheels roll beautifully, and were great for blocks and blocks of New York streets (as you can see from the wear on the anodizing). The locks are the most solid I’ve ever seen on any wheels - if you have an Inovativ cart, these are the same. They really felt like the Goldilocks wheel - big enough to roll over cables and sidewalks, but not so big as to make the stand impossible to use in small lo
  5. Hi Laney, I think arm posts are pretty crucial - I have a set of them from 6” all the way through 18” (though that long isn’t the safest thing, so I use it rarely!), and I switch them out shot to shot all the time, even though I’m 6’ 4”. It’s still useful to be able to get the camera super high (I’ve done shots at over 9 feet with a super post and the 18” arm post), and I also do a ton of work in low mode over tables, benches, and beds, which requires a long arm post armed out over obstacles. I’ve come to making my own arm posts, because I found that the arm posts I purchased from several
  6. Hello Sham! The Mini is a strange rig, and you are right that it has a much less advanced design arm than the Pilot, and other subsequent rigs. The Mini’s arm is much more like a desk lamp arm than a more modern Steadicam arm, so I would absolutely prefer the Pilot’s arm to the Mini’s arm. The vest also doesn’t have an adjustable socket block, so you may have to lean to balance the rig (ouch!), and the whole rig is pretty outdated by modern standards. However, the Pilot’s arm and vest will not work with the Mini sled. The Mini’s gimbal actually only has 2 axes in it, and the 3rd ax
  7. Bump and a price drop - $1000 now, with free delivery in the mid-Atlantic and northeast US. Want this to go to a new home and be useful, not just taking up room in my storage!
  8. This is an older, but very workable rickshaw, which I just tuned up, and it’s ready for you to go start making money with it! This rickshaw is built off of a steel frame, 2 “bike-style” wheels, and a very beefy pivoting caster in the rear. It’s original owner told me that it was built by a key grip in New York years ago. It’s sat for some time in the previous owner’s garage, and then my shed, and so there is some rust on the steel frame, and on some screws. However, everything seems to be functional, and it rolls beautifully with the brand new tires I just had put on by a local bike
  9. This is a bunch of retired parts from an old Gyro system, everything appears to be functional, but it all has seen years of use. Available are: 4x PRO 1.5” Gyro clamps - $150 each 1x PRO “Gyro System” base, which is very similar to a PRO 1 base, except with a large LEMO input on the front for the battery inputs, instead of the battery cage down below. This would be a great starting point for a custom lower sled, as it has the modern PRO threaded post connector, and a lot of room inside for new wiring. Also includes new circuit breakers, and a gyro mount that slides into t
  10. I would probably use a strap wrench. While I’m sure you could use a castle wrench, a strap wrench will be a bit more universal. Also, if you’re finding that you’re getting play between the D Box and the post, that may be from the edges of the flats on the post connector being rounded over, and I know in the past I helped someone by shimming that with some thin layers of tape to make it more solid.
  11. Larry asked me to help him get the word out about these Volt button extensions he’s been working on for months, and finally has a batch of to sell. They’re a slick little machined Delrin and black anodized Aluminum part, and fit easily into the Volt with no modifications. You can find more information, as well as purchase them here, and more information will be posted soon on installation. https://larrymcconkey.com/product/volt-button-extension/
  12. Hey Kevin, I texted this to you, but I figured it may be good information for others, so I would share it here as well. As for the Wave drifting off of level, there are a couple of things that could be at play here. The first thing I would ask is how quickly it drifts off level, and whether it’s a gradual, slow drift, like it is just slowly “settling in”, or if it seems to more quickly go off level. If it is a slow “settling in” feeling, I have found that over time my Wave developed a similar issue, but that there is an easy workaround. The first few minutes after boot-up, the Wave’s sens
  13. One of the main things that’s kept me using SmallHDs as my primary monitors (though I will soon be picking up a couple of the off-brand new super bright monitors as backups) has been the ability to zoom and scale the picture, along with the addition of custom, easily changeable guides. I have found that in the past couple years, there has been a proliferation of DPs wanting to use old anamorphic lenses, sometimes producing odd aspect ratios, and then cropping down the sensor to fit the proscribed aspect ratio. On one particular show last year, we were using a 2x anamorphic lens on an Alexa Min
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