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Lee Clements

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Everything posted by Lee Clements

  1. Not sure if these are still available, but I sent an email to the one you listed above.
  2. I had blindly asked this question, but I see now the difference in attachment points--I had looked at the xREACH before, and my brain switched the two for some silly reason. I'd be interested to know what Flowcine says, @chris iwanow, but if the arm would be long enough to reach around the ExoVest waist, then an adapter could probably be machined...
  3. Does one need a special adapter to use this with an ExoVest?
  4. Apologies--I forgot to update this post. Sold within an hour of posting.
  5. Sale possibly pending (I was not expecting it to go this fast.)
  6. Correspondence at steadiclements(a)gmail.com, or via text at 859 553 2987.
  7. This is it: the big one. The mothership. The cart your cart wants to be. Built like a tank! Solid as a rock! Your oasis in base camp! Other hyperbolic statements! Asking $1800, will consider offers. Willing to ship if you're willing to pay for it, otherwise pickup in Lexington, KY. I'll also deliver to anywhere within a reasonable distance of there (I'd consider Atlanta or possibly Chicago "reasonable.") This is one of five carts built by Erwin Landau. I am the second owner, and have added and adapted a few things to make it easier to travel. Hopefully the pictures are description enough, but here’s some info: All aluminum construction (welded joints, bolts and nuts where necessary) Traveling handle/cover becomes battery shelf Mast and pads for docking sled Construction features “bumper” area to protect docked sled during travel. Mast bracket has holes for patio/beach umbrella 10” pneumatic casters 3” tilt-back casters for compact size Added handles on sides, added holders for two posts in bottom compartment I’ve replaced the carpet on bottom main compartment, and I can replace the other parts before sale is completed Including a Pelican 1770 for accessories and travel Case with pads, front bar, two posts: approx. 76 lbs Pelican with wheels, mast, accessories: approx. 94 lbs The following accessories will be included: Vest hanger (pictured on back of cart) Stand hanger (pictured on side of cart near front) Large umbrella (pictured in outdoor picture) Wheel chocks Extra 3D-printed thumbscrews (happy to share STL, too) Extra screws for all points All casters have been greased and checked for leaks (one smart caster has a cracked bearing that makes it loud when pushed at speed or unloaded, but it is still perfectly functional) I’m selling because I’m changing my workflow a bit. All of my work for the past few years has been broadcast, and most of that has been travel. This cart is a bit of a bear when dealing with airport shuttles and rental cars (I recommend a minivan) but it can be done. However, it would be most at home in a situation where it doesn’t have to move too often—ideally on a feature with a liftgate truck, or in a studio. Big wheels and a wide footprint do make it almost-all-terrain, and I’ve used it as a luggage cart many times in flat configuration with two posts (see picture.) Also some elevators may give you problems if they’re not deep enough…
  8. What's the post size on the back for balancing? 3/4" or 5/8"?
  9. Selling my Glidecam V-25 arm. Haven’t had it serviced or anything, but I know it works well. I used it for years, pretty consistently maxing it out and it still did alright. B&H says the Glidecam V-25 arm weight capacity is 25-40 lbs, which needs to include your sled. If your sled is too heavy, you’ll have no room for camera weight. I think an EFP-type sled would probably do well—something more on the lightweight side. I may be selling one of those soon, too...after this arm sells, though. My friend Thomas Crescenzo machined an adapter piece to use a standard Steadicam socket on this arm, so I could use it on a regular vest and give myself a path to upgrading. I’ll include the original Glidecam pieces, if you have a Glidecam vest you’d rather use with it. This is a standard 5/8” arm post, so should fit the smaller rigs (that aren’t a Zephyr.) I’m including a long post as well. Asking $1,000 and am open to reasonable offers. Email steadiclements@gmail for correspondence.
  10. Note that they also probably spell it "steadycam."
  11. I'm potentially interested. How would one get in contact with you?
  12. Selling my analog Bartech kit. Asking $2500, free shipping within CONUS. - Analog Tx/Rx (S/N 0748) and antennae - Heden M28P-90103 motor - D-tap to LEMO power cable - LEMO-LEMO power cable - "Dogbone" for 15mm rods - 10k pot for thumb control - Extra 32-pitch and iris wheels for 15mm mounts - Extra mounts (small black one needs a new screw to tighten) - Extra strips for handwheel - Case with foam Would be great for someone just starting out (as it was for me.) Works flawlessly, I just need the money for something else right now.
  13. I've got a small run of voltage adapters and USB cables. The voltage adapter has a standard D-tap cable in and a 2.1mm DC jack out, and the USB cables are available in either micro or mini. 2A max. Perfect for charging phones, or for small on-camera lights that need USB inputs. I can also provide extra 2.1mm cables to power 5V accessories (e.g., Monoprice SDI-HDMI adapters that run on 5V.) Shipping's extra, but it won't be much. Coming from Kentucky, USA. PayPal, Venmo, Apple Cash all accepted.
  14. I'm listing three tripods for which we have no use anymore. They're older with signs of significant use, but are functionally in great shape. Please contact me at lclements(at)hammondcg.com or PM me for more information and pictures. First is an O'Connor 1030-S (or -A, not sure which) with a mini-Euro QR plate adapter, and the original O'Connor sticks--I think they're aluminum or steel, but they are not carbon fiber. Both handles are included, and original plate without screws. The mini-Euro configuration is the exact same plate as Sachtler's top-load plate. I'm asking $2500 Second and third are Sachtler V20 II's with aluminum sticks. One of them is missing the big red knob for the tilt lock, as well as the lock at the front of the sliding top plate--if it's unlocked, it can potentially slide back off the head. But if it's locked, there are no issues--I've mounted a teleprompter with Sony F800 on the head and done all kinds of tilts with no problems. The other V20II has no problems (non-cosmetic, anyway.) Both sticks have floor spreaders. Because of the missing pieces, I'm asking only for $1800 for the first, and $2200 for the second. First: The replacement parts needed are 2501-07 (stop for the head adjustment) and 2500-090 (may be the whole assembly.) Second:
  15. At the risk of a strange introduction, here's what I've done. I decided to buy one of the ProAim knock-offs--the Flycam Flujo, to be specific. I did so for a few reasons: firstly, having actually put hands on it when a friend bought one, I recognized that the bones were there, and the ability to not only hold a camera, but to let me adjust balance and arm tension; secondly, I wanted to see if I could make such a thing work at a professional level; and thirdly, I simply cannot justify (in the market here in Virginia Beach) the upfront investment of a "real" rig--however, by keeping the cost of my rig low, I've been able to get a few other accessories that wouldn't be available if I had dropped the $10k+ upfront, even on a used rig from someone here in the forum. I have completely gutted the thing--the wires are cheap, there's way too much extraneous crap, key points were made of incredibly poor materials--and rebuilt it as I see fit. Currently stuck on a post cable solution (seeing if I can DIY that too, before I ask the likes of Mr. West to make one), but I'm pretty happy with the rig as it is. As soon as I get parts back from the machine shop, I'm going to start running it through the ringer with every camera I have access to around here. (If you're interested, I've been keeping track of what I've been doing: http://diffusedlight.wordpress.com/2013/12/27/flycam-flujo-the-overhaul-pt-1/) Would I recommend it to anyone else starting out? Absolutely not. I took a Steadicam workshop five years ago, taught by Dave Svenson, Steve Fracol, Jay Kilroy, and Andy Schwartz, with access to everything from a Flyer to an Ultra. I'm the de-facto Steadicam "teacher" at my university, and every person I train (on our increasingly frustrating Glidecam X-22) hears my lectures about taking any workshop if they are interested in pursuing this as a career, and I incorporate my research and reading on current rigs. Point being, I like to think I know better, so me taking the risks here is much better than someone who knows little-to-nothing about operating. So I would hope that these flourishing knock-offs (and lord, how they are flourishing. Like rabbits.) get better, but only because without the proper training and know-how to begin with, they will foster bad habits, fail continuously, and very potentially start hurting people whose reach exceeds their grasp.
  16. Indeed you were. My mistake--I've used the Flyer LE quite a bit, and I agree with you on the vest. I tend to shoot for a middle-of-the-range load anyway, just to keep as much potential energy out of the springs as possible. I've spent some time combing the forums about the Zephyr and its foibles (and you've actually helped me answer some questions about it before--thanks again!) but I just don't see being able to support it here. Perhaps as I investigate this thread of possibility, I will follow up on here. The Flycam sled has developed some electrical issues, and I'm going to be taking it home next week and taking it apart to see what the story is. That could be a deal-breaker for me, if it's a mess on the inside. But everything on the outside seems fine, and is all wired with authentic LEMO's, which gives me hope.
  17. The website lists the lift capacity as "2 to 20 lbs" which I highly, highly doubt. So far, we've flown a JVC HM700U, which is not a terribly heavy camera, and it didn't seem to favor too well. I've only had a few hours to mess around with it--dubbed it all "Further Research Required". Hopefully next week I will get his rig from him and run it through the gamut. The heaviest thing I've got here is an Arri SR3, which will clock in at probably 25 lbs with a 400' reel, or a variety of cameras in the SR3 mattebox/rails system. I hadn't heard that about the Zephyr vest--that's good to know. The Zephyr is the rig I've been looking at for a long time, but as I said, this market won't really support that kind of a purchase, and Zephyrs aren't old enough to have great deals on used ones yet.
  18. With all due respect, I'm only asking for the measurements. I have a lot of ideas about this system, and were I to go through with this, I would not simply throw the arm on the vest: I would work to adapt it, either milling the current post down, or searching for the correct parts to replace it with something more appropriate. While I am the first person to preach about the Tiffen/Steadicam "name-brand" stuff (I have been the Steadicam teacher at my school for the past year, having to work with a Glidecam X-22 system is infuriating to say the least) I am also a realist and an engineer. Which means (1) I recognize that the Virginia Beach market will simply not support a lot of Steadicam work, so I don't know how long it will take me to pay off a loan of $10k or $15k to buy the Tiffen system that I really want, and (2) I can see, from messing around a fair amount with my friend's Flycam system, that the principals are all there, and that it will support what I'd need to mold it to my requirements. The sled has some minor issues that I've already corrected, the vest is atrocious, but the arm is solid. On top of that, Flycam has been very communicative and supportive. So if I can get the sled and vest for under $1,000, I can afford a nicer vest, and give myself more options in the future to upgrade arms and sled. But right now, I need to know what the socket block size is to see if this is even a possibility, and/or how I would go about it.
  19. The arm is a "Proaim 7000". A friend of mine bought the whole "Flycam Fluojo" set on eBay, which I have been pretty leary of, but it's actually quite solid--they've taken a lot of cues from the higher-end Steadicam systems, even if some of the execution is a little off. The arm is almost a cross between the Flyer/Zephyr arms and the G-50/G-70's, and works pretty well as yet, but the Flycam vest they provide is a nightmare. Again, it takes cues from the Steadicam vests, with the ability to clamp down to provide that extra snug fight (which is much more than I can say for the Glidecam X-22...ugh) but the design does not fit a human well, and the socket block is pretty much fixed where it is--you can't drop it lower to the waist because the waist-band clasp gets in the way. The arm feels very solid, and works well with the system, despite some things that simply aren't making sense. Perhaps it's because they're not Steadicam operators, or they just copied what Steadicam has done without understanding why. So my hope is that Flycam would be willing to knock a few hundred dollars off the price if I don't get a vest from them, and I can find a real Steadicam vest somewhere online or on this forum, and start building my rig piecemeal. If I had the money, I would go right out and buy a Zephyr (well, if we're dreaming, I'd rather get a Clipper) but the market around here will not support the work I'd need to repay that amount of money in a decen time. The Flycam system is cheap enough that I'm comfortable spending the money on it, knowing that I'm going to be making severe modifications to it, but well built enough that I know it'll handle a lot of what I can throw at it. But in order to know if I can do that, I'm looking for the socket block sizes, so I can measure my friend's Proaim arm, and determine I if I can start down this road.
  20. Does someone have a measurement/size of the socket block holes/posts? If you have both the smaller and larger sizes (Zephyr/Flyer and Clipper/Ultra), that would be greatly appreciated. Reason being, I have an arm that works, and I am trying to see if I can get a Steadicam or Klassen vest that will work and be more comfortable than the one that's included.
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