Bob Busch

I succesfully reversed the bones in the arm. I was able to buy the broklen bearing at berry bearing for $4 I guess next time stedicam acts like they don't know about making an sk1 into an sk2 it makes me want to do the work myself. I just saved over $300. the sled never worked better. Now I have to make a weight cage. Bob

I have allready started at reversing the arm myself. each section is held with an allen set screw. I allready swithched the passive bone with the active one, all I have to do is replace the bearing that is was stuck in the reciever in the passive bone. I sure hope this tiny neetle bearing is in stock at my local bearing store berry bearing. The whole Job will take under 3 hours. Bob

I talked to Kyle at Tiffen and he never heard of them doing that. he said it would be 2-3 hours work at $95 per hour?? It looks like a 1 hour job to me. they said I have to send it in for an estimate for them to be sure. I thought it looked like a pretty easy job. Does anybody know where I might get this done besides tiffen and steadyrig? Bob

I have an original SK1 and I shoot with a light (5lb) Hdv cam. I have put weights on the top of the cam and the gimble's position on the shaft is still so low that the arm bangs constantly into the monitor. :blink: I have been told to get my arm converted to an SK2 so the thin part of the arm attaches to the sled and won't be in the way too much. I need to concider how much I can get for my old SK, (I think about $4000), if I can JUST replace the arm by itself (which ones will work with my stedicam product) or should I just sell my medium weight SK and get a light-weight alternative like the "Varizoom Prolight" or the "Glidecam smooth shooter". Are they heavy duty enough for a 5-10 lb cam? Will I be dissapointed while stepping back by using an inferior off brand product? I know if my used Sk sells for $4000 i can afford to get a light weight rig like the "smooth shooter" and the"Varizoom Prolight"? I haen't used those two and would like any input from anybody that have tried all 3 rigs. Thanks, in advance Bob

Hi Chip, How much did it cost? also is it easier and or cheaper just to replace the arm with an aftermarket arm or maybe a flyer arm? does anybody know the costs for aftermarket arms, and wich brands do I have to stick to so my connections are compatible with My Sk vest and Sled Stedi Bob

Does anybody know how I can reverse the arm without problems on a SK-1 Bob

does the sk and sk2 have an arm flaw? can I use a arm not made for the sk? can you expound on this "reverse arm explosion" on other thread Bob

What do you mean explode? where did you hear this? :blink: how can I make it so I can use the 2-bone attached to the vest? am i damaging the arm with use? what modification? Also would a "drop down" handle with a aircraft pin and inverted gimble attachment help get me more clearance? it makes the arm longer but it gives me more clearance. thanks for the info Bob The sk2 type has it the way you like it. ( from vest 2 section first than single section attacht to sled ) You can not flip the arm. it will explode. You can try to rebuild it the way you want it, i believe it could be done but i am not sure. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I have a sk and becasue the post is short and the cam is light (the gimbal is adjusted very low on the post) the arm hits the monitir or patteries often, do you guys (with sk) reverse the arm, so the passive (and thinner end) attaches to the sled? or do you use a "drop down" or extension to keep the arm from hitting the battery. Or do you add more weight to the rig to have a higher gimbal position on the post? thanks Bob

Thanks Mikko that is helpfull. if I put the weight above the camera, (versus below) will it require less weight to ballance the rig with the battery/monitor counterweight? Also if the weights are farter apart from the center horizontally will that help the camera with it's inertial stability? Also I see that you have your arm on upside down on the SK. IE... :o the "passive bone" is closest to the sled instead of having the passive "bone" attached to the vest. does that help keep the arm from hitting the battery and monitor with a lighter camera? I tried that, and I also tried using a "drop down" to give more distance between active arm and the sled. Have you heard of using a "drop down" for that purouse. Has anybody used a tilting plate to tilt up or down at a more extreme angle? Bob

I have a stedicam sk and I am trying to mount a 4 lb sony camera on it. the minimum weight for an sk is 8 lbs and my pd150 barely weights 5 lbs. What is the best way to make a mini-dv heavier without reinventing the wheel. I allready put exercise wrist weights through the handle of the camera and around the upper tube with slidy and sloppy results. should I put a bar under the camera and mount weights on it front and back, to increase inertial stability? would a 4 lb metal block between the dovetal and the camera help? should I make the block even heavier to increase inertial stability? does mounting weights on a low-mode bracket help too? Also, I am short, and trimming the fore-aft ballance (with such a light camera) seems to work poorly at tilting the cam up to shoot taller people. has anyone used a tilting plate to set a tilt up or tilt down. thanks, Bob