John Brankin

bump

I have one for sale. http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24360

I have one. http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24360

$7000. Located in LA. Everything works perfectly. Minor scuffs and scratches from use. This is a second rig that I no longer need.

1. You should be fine with flying that camera with Canon glass. If you need to save some weight you can power the camera through the sled and lose the 702.

2. Accessory wise: Stand and a low mode bracket

3. There are many battery options with two mounting styles in either V Mount or Anton Bauer gold mount. I would get the same mount as your RED. What brand of battery you go with depends on how much you want to spend. Personally I have been running Anton Bauer Dionic HC batteries but I just bought a bunch of G90s which is the newer equivalent.

4. Steadicam workshops http://www.steadicam-ops.com/workshop.shtml Steadicam Handbook http://www.amazon.com/Steadicam®-Operators-Handbook-Jerry-Holway/dp/024082380X

I see used Zephyrs for close to the cost of a new Scout online. Check the this forum, craigslist in film markets like LA and the FB group.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/SteadicamGearBuySellRentSwap/permalink/1758270447737449/

http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=24028

You should be able to fly a FS700 or F3. For the FS700 / 7Q you could use the 7Q as the monitor but you would be pushing the weight limit of the arm. Also I don't thing the FS700 can send a SD and an HD signal at the same time. So if thats the case the 7Q would work as the sled monitor at the base. The pilot may not be able to send a HD signal down the post so you might need to have an external BNC to the 7Q at the bottom. Now the 7Q is a very reflective monitor and you will have a very hard time seeing an image when outside with it.

The sled is most likely wired with a 50 ohm cable. It needs to be 75 ohm to carry the HDSDI signal properly.

Procam has the Zephyr. I used it a few times when I was on a show out in London. http://www.procam.tv/contact-us/london

Roller rinks shouldn't be slick. I did two skating shoots this year, one on a wood floor and one on ice. The first one I was doing steadicam in low mode with roller blades and it worked out great. (I have started playing ice hockey and skating when I was a young child so I feel more comfortable doing that than running with a rig.) I was able to skate backwards to forward with the talent at speed which would have been hard with a rickshaw. The only issue I had was adjusting for the high speed turns because of the g force. The sled really wanted to pitch, but I just set a longer drop time to fix that. The second shoot was on a ice rink during a public skate. The production was very nervous with me being out there with all the traffic with a steadicam and a built out F55. We ended up going with a Movi / blackmagic pocket rig and it work very well. I was easily able to go from skates to the talents face in a single move and the rig was perfect when I had to zip around at speed and do sharp turns. It was also nice to have something so small since it was a packed rink.

I have the same amount of movement from the end of the camera mount plate.

Same issue as Marc. I had it set up with a C300 with a 16-35mm and a FS700 with a 24-105. Walking slow was fine, but any quicker walk would cause an unusable about of vibration. I sent it back and had it upgraded with a stronger dual clamping bracket, but the problem still occurred. I suspect its from a slight play in the motor.

On the plus side, It was awesome to use outside in the wind. The rig would get knocked around a bit and the horizon stayed locked.

Luckily Letus is a smaller company so I have been able to talk on the phone with engineers and owner to troubleshoot and refine the product. Their customer service is amazing so I'm planning on working with them to find a solution.

After some more googling I was able to track down an old manual.

"The unit accepts universal mains voltage 110 - 240 VAC 50/60 Hz. It will fully charge a depleted battery pack in approximately 60 – 80 minutes. "

I'm doing a job in England and I want to make sure my chargers won't fry if I plug it into the wall. There isn't any external marks stating the input voltage range.

The C100 has an AV out port. That should send a SD signal that would work with your rig.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/430742/Canon-Eos-C100.html?page=112#manual

Sold.

Bump $2300

Sold

Fixed post version

The Arm was recently tuned at the factory and preforms great.

I have flown moderately sized Red epic packages with Follow Focus and Wireless video with it.

Dual Anton Bauer Mount

It has a few scratches, mainly on the arm from rubbing the vest

Comes with a custom padded soft case

SD monitor

Located in Los Angeles

http://www.steadicam.com/videoFlyer.html

$3200

Contact: John.Brankin@gmail.com

-John

Great starter rig

Can handle DSLRS or prosumer camcorders

Anton Bauer Mount

Comes with Merlin weights (not pictured)

It has a few scuff and scratches but nothing major

Everything fits in a large steadicam backpack

Located in Los Angeles

http://www.tiffen.com/pilot.html

$2400

Contact: John.Brankin@gmail.com

-John

I have not used one, but I saw that setup at NAB this year.

Which one of you comes poking in at 0:32?

I'm on the fence about buying the level. How are you guys liking it after using it for a few jobs? Is it worth it?

By the looks of it, the pin came out just enough so it only penetrated the bottom half of the arm. It doesn't look that bad though.

Correct fix - send it to Tiffen

Quick fix - clamp it in a table vise and bend it back into place with a long adjustable wrench

It is super easy to change out. No tools required and just one bolt.

Steadicam Pilot owner here. I have had the same issue. I'm located in LA so I just drove over to the Tiffen/Steadicam factory, and picked up a bunch of spares. I was told that you can use Loctite on the bushings to keep them in the arm. Tiffen/Steadicam should be able to ship some out if you give them a call.

John