axel ebermann

Perfect operating condition.

Arm was upgraded from g70 in 2013.

Two arm posts

transport sleeve

I also have two arm posts to use this with a Pro / Artemis sled (extra charge).

Price: $8500

Arm is located in New York City (Westchester to be precise) and can be inspected upon request.

I do have a question:

I am still missing parts of my shipment from your last Bstocksale at the end of March and pretty much everybody at Vitec seems to be ignoring my voice messages and emails.

Help ? Anybody ?

Basic Flowcine Gravity One is $3.6k new at B&H. What additional brackets do you have
to double that purchase price ? Just interested.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1086549-REG/flowcine_fc_g_1blk_gravity_one_2_axis_gimbal.html

Not to discourage you from buying Gyros. I love Gyros.

But with all the downfalls as startup time, noise, weight etc. - have you considered the Betz Tools Wave

as an alternative ?

Most people mount the 6x6 gyros on the bottom of the sled. Which works. But unless your camera weighs a ton

you will be hopelessly bottom heavy. Which is not necessarily a bad thing for those 'windy day' shots - but sometimes a little limiting.
Or in other words: With a 6x6 you are adding a lot of weight in one spot on the sled which is tricky to counterbalance.

As for 2 x Gyro vs 6x6: With two gyros you would have to find a matched pair. Otherwise the two gyros might start working against each other. Never done that but I imagine it to be a little tricky...

They are both high end systems and both work well. Obviously the WCU-4 has some advantages when using Arri cameras.

In terms of protecting your investment and where everything is going you just have to look at the number of Preston units

currently being sold on all the usual forums and you'll have a good idea :-)

That being said: If you do want that Preston this is certainly a good time to snatch one up.

thanks. will try.

(maybe I should read a manual once in a while :-)

Have you lowered the socket block to be as low as it can be - on the same level of the waistband? (see the bottom of page 7 of the manual here: http://www.tiffen.com/userimages2/Steadicam/LIT-815780.pdf ) If not, that seems like an easy solution.

Love my Exovest. But I feel that the socket blocked is just sitting a little bit too high for my taste.
Aka the default position of the socket block / arm / sled is about 3" higher that I would like it too have.

Has anybody come up with a 'socket block lowering bracket' for the Exovest ?

Basically the Exovest equivalent of the IBaird Pro Vest bracket.

I think it really depends on what kind of projects you are doing. Smaller budget stuff where the $$$ is everything tend to go with Ronins or Movis because steadicam, rightfully so,

is much more expensive.

However with a lot of larger, bigger budget productions even some of the 'above the line' wizards have figured out that it is quite counter productive and pricey to have

a crew and cast of 100 people stand around updating their Facebook status while somebody is fuzzing around with a pesky gimbal.

I do work with Gimbals occasionally but my framing always seem to suck.

Change the input profile (on the monitor) made the difference for me

On the monitor, Try to change rec 709 for a S-log for exemple (rec 709 is never bright enought for me in full sun)

I own the cinemonitor XSBL 6" and I never use sunhood

will try that. thanks.

That's quite odd. I used a Cinemonitor 3a Super Bright without a hood for 10 years, now a HD6 blue knob, then gray knob for the last 6 with amazing results, never used a hood in Miami Sun. and the HD6 I have does have a shiny screen. I hope it's some weird setting. best of luck.

thanks for the input

AR coating does not mean matte finish.

 

 

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/phyopt/antiref.html

I never said that by the way.

what I said is that most screens that I encountered so far " that are designed to be anti-reflective have some sort

of matte finish"

I never said anything about AR coating.

AR coating does not mean matte finish.

 

 

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/phyopt/antiref.html

AR coating does not mean matte finish.

 

 

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/phyopt/antiref.html

interesting read. thanks

It looks to me like you are missing the anti reflection layer on your screen. Could it be a manufacturing issue or just that you expected more out of the monitor screen?

I don't know. That is kind of what I am trying to find out. Usually screens that are design to be anti-reflective have some sort

of matte finish. My monitor screen is as shiny as a mirror. Which seems weird.

thanks for the advise.

And yes. I did read the manual. And the monitor was set to 'full brightness'. And I do understand how reflections work.

I am just a little surprised how 'shiny' the screen is.

In full bright mode, do you try to change the input profile (linear/rec709/S-log...)?

It works for me even full sun operating :-)

I have not tried that. I am watching the rec709 coming out of the alexa. which should provide the highest contrast if using a rec 709 profile

on the monitor - correct ?

or in other words: do you suggest that I let the monitor take the contrast out of the picture ?

generally though I am not even getting to that point. because all I can see are the trees and the sky behind me :-/ (aka reflections)

You can, as I sometimes use, the Tiffen sunhood they made for their Ultrabright 8.4 monitor

thanks for the suggestion. I really, really detest sun hoods on my steadicam monitor though

because they catch every little breeze and mess of my balance zen.

Also: I used (supposedly) inferior monitors so far and could always find a tilt angle of the monitor that would allow me to see stuff.

that is why I am so surprised that I have such trouble with the Transvideo.

I just got that monitor. Supposed to be the bees knees.

Only trouble is:

The thing is so reflective I can't see a thing outside regardless of the monitor angle.

Both of my other monitors Ultra2c and SmallHD Pro DP7 High Bright are not nearly as reflective

and have much better daylight visibility.

Am I missing something ?

SOLD

Just to clarify: This is local pickup or delivery only. I will not ship this.

For Sale:

Anybody knows how to program a user button / F button to flip&flop the monitor quickly for low mode without having to go into the menu ?

Just got my monitor and don't seem to be able to figure it out ...

interesting.

good to hear a couple of other opinions. and glad that the HD5 seems to be working because I really

want it to work. maybe I just have a dud.

I talked to Transvideo support and let's say they were not exactly rushing to solve the issue. Which surprised me considering their stellar

reputation.

I have since sent in the monitor to Abel Cine. Let's see what they say.

I still think it is strange that you would bring out a quite pricey little monitor in 2016 that that has zero color adjusting capabilities.

But that is just me :-)

In terms of tint I let the picture speak for itself. The left monitor is a color calibrated SmallHD pro - right is the HD5.

I don't know about most monitors. But every single monitor that I have owned - and there were a few - I could adjust the color balance.

And not just brightness, contrast and saturation, which do nothing to get an accurate color reproduction.

Or in other words: My HD5 is magenta as hell. Makes people look like Oompa Loompas. And all Transvideo support

has to say is 'well too bad, this monitor cannot be calibrated'.

Sorry Williams. Did not mean to hijack your thread. But it simply never occurred to me that in 2016 one of the world market leaders

in high end monitors would bring out a quite expensive monitor that cannot be color calibrated. Otherwise I would not have bought it.

Just wanted you to be aware of that before you buy.

I think one discussion to be had - creatively - is what Steadicam does. Aka what is the aesthetic ?

It always bores me to pieces when people use steadicam as a 'dolly without track'.

For me personally, Steadicam at its best is Steadicam with an attitude. Something where I can feel

the dynamic operating as part of the story.

First season of 'True Detective' made very good use of that.

I think by overly obsessing over perfect horizons and trying to copy gimbals in their sterile perfection we are

loosing sight of what steadicam can really do. Which is feeling a human storyteller behind the camera.

And yes. Two years down the road we will all have some sort of gimbal roll cage on our top stage. But this steadicam

op is not going down without a fight !!! :-)

It really depends on what you need.

If you want to have a gimbal / steadicam combo or hybrid the Trinity is going to be the bees knees.

I tried it out briefly and I don't think the Maxima is meant to be carried around by hand. Way too heavy - even

if you are only using an Alexa Mini or alike.

However the upside is that is has none of the RC flimsiness of the Movi. The Maxima feels rock solid.

The motors are strong as hell.

I can see this thing killing it in car-to-car, aerial or boat applications. In short: Everything with some sort of a mount / limited space

where you want stabilization.

I personally would not consider the Maxima as a Steadicam add-on. It puts too much mass too high above the gimbal of your sled.

The genius of the Trinity is that they are actually chopping off the top stage to keep the mass as low as possible.

I think David Isern in New York actually owns a Maxima. He should have quite a bit of intel.