Iain Baird

Finally got to the bottom of what's in the KIT, sorry for the confusion but the owner has two sets of PLC wheels and his tech guy was away for the week. Not to mention the currency they were purchased in led to some confusion to what the owner paid for them. These are indeed the wheels for sale http://shop.plcelectronicsolutions.com/veracity-control-wheel-kit-with-spektrum-radio/ They sell a little less than $4,400 USD new from PLC and he's asking $3,100 USD plus shipping and handling from Ireland. VAT added for any EU purchase They come with a custom AB battery power plate that attaches to Mitchell mounts for easy field operating and will keep the wheels clear of any surface while sitting flat. iB

Posting this for a friend, I know it's not Steadicam equipment but I'm sure lot's of fellow Ops operate all the toys on set. I use these all the time and they're as good as any of the wheels for gimbals out there. They are very well weighted and easy to setup. Here's the link to the PLC info about them http://shop.plcelectronicsolutions.com/veracity-control-wheel-kit-with-spektrum-radio/ The owner has a few sets so doesn't need these any more. Price to follow soon, EDIT - The type of transmitter/s included in the sale is still unclear - Price and exact details of what is in the Kit will be listed soon. iB

Are they jiggling while under load?

Ron what are you using here as a tilt plate? iB

The archives are a great tool to use but I would say there is no harm in revisiting topics from time to time as it allows new opinions and fresh ideas to surface. I've owned both Tiffen and PRO arms and presently have what is now called the Titan but wasn't when I purchased it. I really liked my Tiffen but over 5 years I had three springs break so I wanted something more bulletproof which the PRO seems to be. I think Brooks brings up the most valuable point about the these arms and that is the resale value, which gives you a pretty good idea of the general consensus in the Steadicam Community. iB

I use an iPad mini as well with the Artemis app, much easier for a few people to gather around and discuss the shot looking at a larger screen. I found this device online called an iOgrapher for the iPad mini, it makes it much easier to hold the iPad in position while holding the device on one side or the other. iB

Why is the 90 the same size as the 150? iB

Is the play in the bayonet connection or in the actual thread attached to the XCS post - as some play started in my sled once after the sled took a hit and it was the thread not the bayonet mount that was the problem. The Large thread on the post section is held secure in the post by a locking nut and I'm assuming here, lock tight of some kind. On mine the lock tight must have shattered or was damaged in the hit and then the bottom stage would then shift a little in my hand no matter how tight the bayonet mount was. To fix it I loosed the locking nut and unscrewed the large thread enough to drop some more lock tight in, rethreaded it and the play was gone. Perhaps not the same as your problem but worth a look. iB

The Transvideo has an input for lens data which has multiple display options when using a smart lens but if it's just getting the cineptape info that the only info that comes up. Since I don't use composite video any more for anything I figured I could use the SD line in my Sled for a more useful purpose. I made a Y cable to feed the signal from the Cinetape to both my MDR3 and into my top stage Composite input. I also made a cable to feed from the composite output on my bottom electronics into the Transvideo data input (Hirose) I'm sure I have the pin outs written down somewhere but I was able to get all of the info from Transvideo specs and Preston specs for how to make the cables. iB

To each their own I suppose - personally I like being able to quickly glance at the cinetape numbers to confirm I'm back within the inch to the same number 1, or maintaining a consistent distance to subject while walking - I don't get distracted by it and was able to make do before but it's just another tool to use. The battery voltage info is easier to check on the screen than looking at the on board battery indicator, again something not neccesary but handy non the less. The timecode display I have to admit is mostly just for having a clock on my monitor - serves no real purpose but to fill in some empty space and make me feel better about the 4:3 annoyance. Would I prefer a 16:9, YES but in the meantime I'm liking mine more than any other monitors I've had before, Greenscreen, 8x8 and 7" 16:9. iB

Alec, I sat on the fence about the Transvideo X-SBL because of this very reason, It was also concerning to me that the S-XBL still uses an older LCD panel that isn't a viewable from all angles like the newer LCDs are. But last year after deciding I couldn't deal with my old monitor any more I took the plunge. After having it for a year now it's proven itself to be a really solid and reliable monitor in all situations from dark sets to full sunlight. Personally I put data indicators below the image to help fill up the 4:3 screen - I have battery voltage, timecode and LensData from the Cinetape. The image size, even though smaller than my last screen, seems just right now that I'm used to it and the viewing angle has never been a major issue yet, but I will concede that it is my one slight disappointment as there are times I need to change the monitor angle to work for the entirety of a shot when in low mode. I've now just purchased the StarliteHD and will get to try it out next week, I have complete confidence that it's built to suit based on my experiences with the X-SBL. Plus the internal level in the X-SBL just plain works!!! iB

Thanks Kyle, I ordered one the other day to replace my PIX 240 (too heavy but love it's functions) I look forward to giving it a try. iB

Hey Job, Does the StarliteHD have an SDI trigger system for recoding clips? Are you limited in size of the clips by the card you use or is there another limiting factor? iB

I thought that only the HU1 would talk to the MDR1? I'm pretty sure that my old HU1 had the same LED bar on it but NOT the switch on the side of the handset that the HU2's had (I never owned an HU2 but was it a snorkel lens switch?) iB

Repair support is one thing to be disappointed in, but I find the lack of honesty about upgrades to come to be more an issue with this company. The BM shuttle was released with the promise of more features to come down the road. The display button that would make the unit more user friendly and easy to navigate reminds me of the hope I once had for this little recorder. It's presently gathering dust in my basement and I'll never buy another BM product as a result. I'm sure they'll continue to sell to a certain market but it does make one wonder why they wouldn't try harder to maintain a better image? iB

Jerry, to a point I agree ..... but there are many standards that could certainly be adhered to without engineering compromises. In this case they haven't even stayed consistent to their own previous post size. You mentioned stage design changes, which were advances made without changing the size of the dovetail used with it. I'm not knocking progress but having some sort of standard that customers could rely on staying consistent for years to come seems like a good move to me. iB

I'm not a Tiffen hater by any means but why can't they just settle on a post size? Perhaps one of the standard sizes that many other manufacturers use. Especially on a rig that is being touted as Modular? iB

I don't think this is true.... here's a short list of wants from my focus puller who loves Preston but still has issues The screen should be larger The Iris slider should be on the other side of the unit so that one handed operation is easier and doesn't result in accidental button hits The Start Stop button should feel different than every other button on the unit (set's are quite dark from time to time) There is in fact a growing list of shortcomings with the HU3 as other companies come out with feature friendly units that are showing focus pullers what the possibilities can be. iB

A quick look at that Arri price List seems to indicate the opposite? iB

I had no trouble using the Omnishot on my old HU1 - sorry for the thread highjack but it seems a worthy sidetrack. iB

Black tack is Butyl, but packaged for the film business so costs 4x as much for 1/16 the amount. IB

It's likely Black Tack http://www.amazon.co.uk/Black-black-strength-adhesive-photographers/dp/B0051BT40K iB

....Sold IB

Sale pending..... IB

To sweeten the pot I'm adding one Pelican Travel case for the monitor and one PRO-PRO cable.