Jarrett P. Morgan

To clarify: The connector is: FGJ.3B.308.CLLD72Z (where the 72 is the size of the cable, in this case 7.2mm) The connector is wired for 12v and 24v, but the camera is purely a 12v camera. The 24v is a straight pass-through to the 24V output (a single Fischer 3-pin RS, the same as Arri). When flying it last time I merely wired it for 12V with a y cable to the camera power and aux and used all 12v accessories. When doing a y-cable, it doesn't really matter what pins each cable is in, as the camera combines all the positive pins and negative pins. (discovered because when I pulled the AUX battery to change it with hot-swap, the accessories were still powered through the power feeding back through the connector.)

It isn't poorly impletmented, but it is meant as a feature to not use all the time, just when you need it (like canon L glass). It works well from what I have tested it, but it is a bit more cumbersome than the analog bartech (mostly because the analog bartech is built to do it constantly) In my mind the feature is very handy to have in the situation where you may need to manually calibrate, but i have yet to have to use it on set. Currently the OLED is used for menu systems (obviously) and then when you go to the main screen it shows an arbitrary number from 0-999 (or 0-99 for iris slider) that corresponds to where the focus wheel or the slider is. I suppose you could use the number for repeatable marks on the same lens, but using a marked ring is a lot easier. Generally I just turn the screen off to extend the battery life even longer.

So I just used the RTmotion 3.1 system on two short films in a row and I have to say it performed admirably. Both 1st ACs were really happy with it. They compared it to between a bartech and a preston, which makes sense in my head as well. If anyone is in Atlanta and would like to try it out, feel free to give me a shout.

Here is my take on the math: the amperage is increased in 12v parallel mode but you are running all three batteries so the load is spread evenly. Thus the amperage draw may be less per-battery than 2 in 24v and one powering monitor: 12v Parallel: hypothetical 10 amps total (7 for camera, 3 for AKS/Monitor) = 3.3 amps on each battery 24v: hypothetical 6.5 amps total (3.5 for camera, 3 for AKS/Monitor) = Cam = 3.5 amps Aux = 5.5 amps (3.5 for camera, 2 amps for AKS) Monitor = 1 amp (*caveat* this is given my understanding on how series circuits work, please correct me if I have gotten something wrong.) My bet would be that the camera rips through 12v faster than 24v because it is designed to work with 24 and therefore has to do more work (for lack of a better phrase) in order to work in 12v mode. Case in point (of the camera having to work harder): the 24v RS outputs are unconverted from 12 to 24v when the input voltage is below 24. When 24v (or higher) is inputed, the outputs are merely a passthrough. Just my 2 cents.

An update to my review/thoughts. (I just like to put the information out there so that people searching can find relevant information) I just received the newest iteration of the RTmotion remote follow: version 3.1 It seems to address several of the issues I discussed before. The antennas are now encapsulated and supposedly more powerful/better (this will be proven or disproven with time). This for me makes the likelyhood of the antennas breaking off again next to nothing, which is wonderful. That alone is a great upgrade. The hand unit's focus wheel is much silkier in its rotation, almost fluid-like. Much nicer than the older design with no resistance. It feels more like a preston now. That is all I have for now, but I have a 7 day short coming up and will report back with additional findings and thoughts.

Thanks for the link! Very useful. I have seen some folks say that when they travel they carry on their vest with them. Do you? or do you have a case for it? I am just starting to travel for work and am still working out the kinks. I have a soft bag (essentially the one from Modular 51), but I certainly don't want to check that.

Have you had any trouble carrying on your batteries? The rules seem to dictate that you really can't carry as many as we would generally need.

And that'll be it then do you recon? Nice and tidy 3's all around? I imagine for awhile. If I had to guess, the next upgrade (for most wireless systems, video and focus alike) will be when new/developing technologies are created to allow better transmission systems or more integrated systems (i.e. making a HU that had the zoom control built in, or perhaps something monitor based like the C-Motion) But who knows, I am merely guessing here...

I actually had a similar issue with a borrowed M-One and put the PAM mount on it. The PAM mount is just a standard 15mm rod, so I cranked down the bartech with its reducer once so it wouldn't slip and then just used the PAM and its kipp handle. Super secure. I originally got the motor mount to use with my RTmotion motor, as its motot mounting system is somewhat lacking. The PAM works perfectly. Just a thought.

I think the release of the MDR3 is merely bringing the MDR line to the same generation as the HU.

I just bought a vest bag and an arm bag from Fikenca. Really well made, and quite nice.

That looks pretty good.... Do you know if there is an option for a remote sensor?

I would like to put in some more input now that I am 9 months into owning the system. First off, the good (in no particular order): - motors are fast and accurate - AC's seem to like the hand unit. It is smaller and lighter than the HU3 and its battery life is incredible. - The OLED screen on the HU is great. Bright and easy-to-navigate menus - and on the battery note, using LP-E6 batteries is great. Easy and cheap to get. - receiver/MDR is tiny. super small. and incredibly light. - range is acceptable. there have been times I was wanting, but overall it has been good. - Customer service is fantastic. For such a small company they have been quite responsive and very helpful (will get to this more later) - Company is committed to good firmware upgrades. They just aren't fixing bugs, but actively making it a better product. - Cost is obviously a huge factor. Quite cheap when compared to the other options. So the really bad things next: - First off, the biggest thing is that I have had a TON of receiver issues. (according to Kris, I have had 85% of the issues they have had total, which is saying something). I have gone through 3 of them this year and my whole system is back at the factory getting completely checked out now, as they thing something else has to be the problem. That being said, when the MDR needed to be replaced, they did so quickly and without having to go through a whole RMA set-up. I told them it broke and they shipped a new one right away. I really hope that they get it sorted out over there and it comes back perfect, because I really do like the system. - Unfortunately this leads me to thing that there are inherent flaws in the design of the system; namely with the receiver antenna. I have had two of the broken by ACs through seemingly normal wear and tear. I am sure it was one event that did it, but it isn't like the device was dropped or whatnot, just used a lot on a fairly rough handheld show. It shouldn't have a problem with that if it is designed to withstand production environments. And the design bads: - The motor mount leaves a lot to be desired. Hard to tighten very tight and difficult to get to. Do yourself a favor and buy a Jerry Hill (or Film-Stuff.com) motor bracket and put it on. It fits the 15mm bracket and I used a wing-nut wrench to crank it down. So much better now. Acts just like a preston motor on a mount. Cannot recommend this route enough. - Hirose connectors for power and camera control. Not a big fan in favor of Lemos. (if they had thought about it I think using Bartech standard connectors would have been smart for power and camera, for upgrades and cable sharing) - 4pin 0B Lemos for the motors/ motors not compatible natively with other digital systems. I imagine this was a cost issues, but too many other devices use 4 pin 0B Lemos. I like it when a connector is only used for one or two things, it helps cut down on confusion with AC's not familiar with the system. (I.e. I had an AC pull in a motor to the camera port on the MDR with a red one (4 pin 0B Lemo) start stop cable. I have since taken and labeled everything better, but the anecdote still stands) - Not a huge fan of the labeling discs. Too narrow for my taste. I built my own out of PVC and the AC seem to prefer the homemade wider ones. That is all I have for now. Please let me know if you have any specific questions!

Based purely on size, I imagine the internal motors are not as fast as a DM-1X or the like, but, considering how well designed the lenses are, I am sure the internal motors have enough torque to be satisfactory. (BTW, topic followed, I am quite interested in this myself, though for purely academic reasons)

I will say that, while I think the Crossbow has some flaws, I am really excited to see you (Paralinx) making stuff and coming up with new innovations for things. Competition is paramount, and all the companies coming out with new and excited things makes it a great time to be in this business. When I talk about a product, I am not trying to insult the person making it at all, just commenting on the product itself; plusses and minuses.

With that same logic, you could roll your own Bolt for way less, too. Honestly the "Crossbow" solution is pretty poor. No loop thru, huge size and an EXTERNAL power plug? One simple nice small box, that's what it should be and what it is with outer solutions. and honestly with Vitec buying Teradek, Paralinx either has to come out with something AMAZING or just realize that they've been beat Agreed. I am pretty excited to see what Teredek does now with the backing of Vitec. The Bolt is an awesome starting point for wireless in the near future (at least in the sub-Boxx range)

Alan, Here is the HDSDI to HDMI converter that I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/141000842587?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and here is the voltage regulator (the bottom snaps off, so I put all the connections in the bottom, then snap it back together): http://www.ebay.com/itm/261219165636?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 EDIT: Alan, I just went back and re-read your post. I would love a link to a smaller voltage regulator. Thanks!

I, on a whim (and more out of curiosity than need since I can just run HDMI out of my decimator) bought a tiny little HDSDI to HDMI converter off of eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/141000842587?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) to make my own crossbow like device for the stick HDMI transmitters. (A side-bar: playing around with wireless video and these consumer devices is a bit of a hobby of mine, it is quite fascinating) Anyway, in the picture below there is a voltage regulator in the little box with an output for the converter and one for the WHDI stick. Not having power integrated into the body isn't as pretty, but it is substantially smaller and works flawlessly.

I hate that man. I will be on the lookout in Atlanta.

The small three pin RS connector on the side is a fischer connector, part number S 102 A052-130+ Make sure you get the corresponding collet for it as well: E3 102.5/4.7 I have ordered mine before from Kensington Electronics, inc. (http://www.keiconn.com/) based out of Texas. That 3 pin connector is about 40 bucks, with the collet being an additional 5. If anyone else has a cheaper source, I would love to know about it! For Lemo connectors (used on just about every camera and rig out there) I use PEI Genesis (http://www.peigenesis.com/). They have great service, good prices, and have a warehouse just one state over from me (=fast shipping) I hope that helps! P.S. The pin out for that connector is as follows: 1) Ground 2) +24v 3) Start/Stop

1) It depends quite a bit on the situation. I have been in open fields or in houses and have gotten several hundred feet, but I did a location on the last feature where a single old concrete and metal wall stopped the single from going more than about 20 ft. That is the nature of 2.4 GHz spectrum. The 900 mhz (Bartech and Preston FIZ1) has much more penetrating power. 2) I have a d-tap, 4-pin XLR, sled power, and am going to make an alexa power/run with a 24v-12v step down when I have a second to do so. I would at least have two cables for each method you have, and multiple methods in case you have to rig something differently. That being said, the d-tap is by far my most used.