Jump to content

Victor Lazaro

Sustaining Members
  • Posts

    1220
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Everything posted by Victor Lazaro

  1. Digging this topic from the grave. https://www.instagram.com/p/B41PM0GgrZw/
  2. Is your gimbal still smooth? Otherwise the gimbal does make a single click when switching from high to low mode, it's the bearing reseating itself in the other side of the groove, and it's perfectly normal with the PRO gimbal.
  3. hey, any Flyer, Pilot, Zephyr or even Archer should work. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1027080-REG/steadicam_804_7900_pilot_sled_docking_bracket.html
  4. Hi Rob, welcome to the world of Steadicam. Short answer, yes there is a way, contrary to gimbals, steadicam requires the operator to learn how to manually correct it. Properly adjusting and balancing the rig as well as understanding the physics behind it, along with training, are important to achieve good stable footage. I would recommend you to read "the Steadicam operators handbook" available on Amazon. It's a wonderful book written by the best Steadicam operators and instructors. If you want to learn more after that a workshop is a really good investment, definitely worth every penny.
  5. Looking for a Steadicam dovetail compatible with PRO top stage. I'm located in NYC.
  6. Hi. What is the brand / model you're using? The behavior you describe doesn't seem to be normal. The sled should float in front of you when in resting position without having to hold it from flying away. You can adjust it with the two thumb screws on the socket block for the fore and aft and with a large Allen key to spin the bolts inside the socket block for side to side. If you feel like it accelerates, it might be that your vest is not firmly attached to your body and starts shifting on you, allowing the rig to fly away. Check that the center spar of the vest is straight and aligned with your body. If all this fails it bought be a defect in your rig. Also you can try to control your rig with your hips to keep it center, but you shouldn't have to hulahop while operating
  7. Get rid of it and get a real Steadicam. Otherwise for a real answer maybe some other place discussing gimbal stabilizers might be more appropriate since this is a Steadicam forum.
  8. Hi, Welcome to the Steadicam forum. As the name says this forum is Steadicam centric so this kind of gimbals are a bit out of the subject. I would recommend you try on a DS1 group on Facebook such as the Gimbal Brotherhood https://www.facebook.com/groups/415514008642391/ Best. V.
  9. Tom Wills made me an adapter that sits on the arm post. Mine is to go from PRO to flyer size but I'm sure you can make different sizes.
  10. The M1V was demoed at Abel Cine yesterday in NYC. I got to try it along with the Exovest with 3rd arm segment. Here are my impressions and what I learned. The M1V electric gimbal is really nice, it works in combination with your skills, allowing you to get a stronger haptic feedback and helping you keep your horizon. You can still go dutch if you desire. If you let go of the post the motors will work in reducing the pendulum. They will also work to keep your post centered during whip pans. The production version will have a connector to also have the "Knight Rider" digital horizon reader like the wagner level (both devices share the same leveling system from Wagner) The production version will also make it easier to install and remove the motors from the gimbal with a couple of screws (right now it s a few steps and parts swap) I was also told that they are working on a way to adapt the M1V gimbal to fit on other brand sleds with a center post smaller than 1.75" (sorry 2" posts). The cons, now just a reminder that I tried a pre production model, they are still working on the software and the hardware will be adjusted as well. You need to systematically deactivate the Volt before docking or the motors will go crazy and keep pushing against the docking bracket (you dock it on the gimbal), there is a button on the gimbal to change settings but this was not active when I tested it. When the motors are working more than they should they start to make a high pitch sound (this can be removed with proper setup and software tuneup) The 3rd arm segment for the G70x was really interesting as well, it allowed me to shoot Garrett Brown at eye level... in low mode! So I could do a shot from toes to head while in low mode. I had to watch out for the ceiling because the rig goes so high. It does add quite a bit of weight though.
  11. That's the one I linked on Amazon. It's great!
  12. I use this for my main cables: http://a.co/7U3pBcb Then Travel pouches for the rest Nice one Michael, I might have to get one of those as well
  13. Hi guys, Posting for a friend in NYC: Hello friends! I just happened into a small lot of Heden snap-on gear sets (0.4/0.5/0.6/0.8) at a deep discount and I'm offering them up here to for purchase. I have three sets remaining and will dole them out first come first served. These are brand new sets (selling for 300eur on the Heden website): http://heden.se/accessories/gears/gear-set-of-four-m21ve-m21ve-l/ I'm asking $125 each including free shipping (USA only). Let me know if you're interested! Thanks so much. Cheers, Jordan jordan.levie@gmail.com
  14. See here, The SO-XLR had a 4 pin 12V XLR connector since it connects to the gold mount which is 12V. This means that a higher amperage goes through the cable. It is preferred to use the 12 pin Fischer connector, which also leaves the gold mount free for a battery, allowing hot swap etc.
  15. You can also look at https://mediablackout.net/ they make all kind of cables. They have some stock on common ones and can also do custom orders.
  16. You can use some ACF-50 on the bearings. http://a.co/j9F3LMn
  17. I have a deal memo that I can use a rider for theirs that states that the client need insurance for the minimum value of my gear and that any gear broken,lost or stolen not covered by the insurance is to be paid by the production. That covers me for the $1000 deductibles some prods are getting. If they don't agree to that then I don't agree to work with them.
  18. Yesterday was my first day with my new Titan arm. I used to have the PRO Atlas one. My feeling is that the Titan is a bit less iso than the Atlas and yes, I also discovered that it would work better when detuned a bit.
  19. All those references are definitely good to real/watch over and over. For the workshop, the instructors are aware that some people have never touched a rig and it doesn't matter that much because everyone will start from the start. The good thing is that you have not learned any bad habits and will start on fresh ground. One thing that will be more necessary than Steadicam experience is camera operating skills, and a critical eye for framing. Learning the tool is only 1/2 the battle (or maybe even 1/3 of it). Knowing how to apply it is something else. I'll take the analogy of a guitar player. You can learn guitar and play really well but if you have no rhythm or no groove you won't make anything good.
  20. HAHAHA! Thanks for helping the steadicam....
  21. The Arri Artemis system has a clever rotating counterweight that helps with shifting the balance between high and low mode, other than that, make your rig neutral balance and try to keep your horizon. If you want the camera to stay in the right direction (which I understand, you don't) you would have to use an MK-V AR or an Artemis Trinity.
  22. Get a garage to solder a square pipe to a round pipe. That's all it is. Then get the WK hard mount. I would not use the seat as it puts more weight on the tail pipe, especially in a turn.
×
×
  • Create New...