Victor Lazaro

Regardless of what equipment you use, the operator's eye and sense of composition is still the most important thing. Steadicam, Movi, Gears, Jib and other apparatus are tools on the operator's belt. Up to him to select which is the best option for the shot.

I have a smallhd dp7. Not so happy with it. Super high latency (and it's not just the camera, the screen has a real delay) the digital level is pure crap! Does not hold its balance you need to recalibrate every minute and only works with the monitor vertical (not tabled). I had to exchange my monitor 3 times mes as the first two had defects in the screen (light bleeding on the left side)

I stumbled upon this on the internet and I thought about our Steadicam vests, since the issue is also that our shirts can't breathe underneath. Do think it would work? http://shop.221btactical.com/products/maxx-dri-vest

Just received my cables from Media Blackout and they are looking great! Really well done, and for a great price with world wide shipping.

D-Tap and P-Tap are basically the same. Just different branding between companies.

If it's the manufacturer's fault see with them to have u replaced with warranty.

Hi Andrew, welcome. To answer your question, like Brooks said I would choose Gold mount as well, with the confidence that the battery will not fall off and break, plus i have having so many different chargers. I would love to see a super slim battery with Gold mound, smaller that a Dionic 90 for this kind of use when you know that you are only powering a monitor and receiver, since Anton Bauer is part of Vitec group, hopefully you guys can figure something out. To solve the issue of the monitor dying on the director, maybe adding an option to have a low battery warning flashing on the monitor or a bright blinking LED on the receiver when the battery is low could be a solution.

Who signed it?

here is one of the setups I made. 11lb weight plate (you could use a 6lb instead of you want) my hyperdeck is on the bottom of my rig.

A long rig is good but if it's as the expanse of getting the gimbal close to the chip it's not worth it. You can align more accessories when vertical you can still move your vertical elements further back in the rods to lengthen the rig if you want. Also remember long me should be thought of in terms of center of gravity and not in physical length. A chip a few inches forward won't make a difference in the image. The issue with the hyperdeck in the front is also that suddenly you risk to poke someone if you a close to the subject Eric's accessories are good suggestions. (Have a look at SmallRig.com as well they are cheap and good quality)

I'm sure you know but let's remove all possibilities. Have you tried without the Teradeck? Are you sure of the polarity of the Teradeck cable? Make sure you are not using a Bartech cable instead. they look the same but polarities are inverted.

Hi Eric, In my opinion there are way too many adapters between the camera and the Steadicam dovetail. You will gain control and reduce potential vibrations by getting the chip closer to the gimbal. I would also get the Hyerdeck on the back side and move the camera forward. It will help in Don Juan position with a wide lens. I personally prefer having the accessories sitting vertically on the rods, it will shorten the camera setup. That cardle you posted above would definitely help. The issue with the Zacuto universal baseplate is that it is a shoulder mount that adda a lot of waisted space below the camera (ok on tripod, not on steadicam) plus that camera mounting plate is a pain. If you insist on keeping that baseplate, look into investing an Alexa Steadicam plate.

The Pilot doesn't have power on the top stage so using a Decimator will be a pain (that's why I oriented you toward the Atmos H2S vs another converter since it can be battery powered) I'm not sure it's that easy as swapping the monitor to make the sled HD, Besides, most High Brightness HD monitors are over $1K already so you would break even as buying the HD right away. (see my HD monitor list I made a while ago, prices may have changed since. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aln7iPn_kB2sdHowWElqVk1HWlRkdjgxcjJKN01XRGc&usp=sharing )

Hi Bo, Best option for the GH4 is to use the Atmos H2S on an HD Pilot since you can't preview in SD while in 24p. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/964935-REG/atomos_atomh2s002_1xh2s_converter_1_2600mah.html

Hi Paul Congrats on spotting that something is wrong by yourself ( a lot of people just go about with wrong settings on their steadicam and end up hurting themselves) You might want to get the Steadicam Operator's Handbook http://smile.amazon.com/Steadicam%C2%AE-Operators-Handbook-Jerry-Holway/dp/024082380X?sa-no-redirect=1 It will teach you the proper use of any Steadicam system. Good luck.

Yes, the arm for the Pilot is different than the Merlin because of the shape of the arm post (it's bent on the Merlin). Just look at them on the B&H website you will see they are not the same. The arm and vest of the Pilot are designed to properly hold the weight the Pilot sled can hold while keeping the cost down. Getting another arm than the Pilot will not be a good idea as it will not be engineered to work with the sled.

Get the whole pilot setup, sled arm and vest. You will be much happier.

I PM'd you his cell number.

follow this link to become a sustaining member: http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?app=subscriptions Otherwise those batteries are looking nice with usb and P-tap inside. What I would love to see is a super small lightweight battery with Gold mount and Anton Bauer charger compatible like a HyperCore-50A GOLD or something like that for the director's monitor to stay light.

+1 for the Cam Jam Quattro! Also note that the SmallHD DP7 High Bright has a 4 frame delay no matter what. It is a bit annoying and makes me regret getting this monitor a bit (otherwise it is super bright yes)

I was thinking about that too that would be nice. I was also, a bit surprised to see that the Gen 4 battery hanger is wired with the top and center battery in parallel in the hanger itself. There are only two pairs of connectors to the jumper. which means that there is no way to have accessories and camera on a separate circuit.

That plate is actually embossed (like dog tags) and bolted on, but yeah.

There should be 3 screws no?

What about Peter Abraham's Long Plate. It comes with a screw to hold the back of the Alexa/V-mount cameras. Got mine yesterday and it looks great!

T2 will take 3 hours to fully charge an HC, while the TWIN will take 5hours. This may be the difference between running out of juice or finishing the day. It also does trickle charge to protect the cells that have been completely depleted. Your batteries will retain their charge better in the long run. It would be custom cable. Contact Alan when he comes back from NAB. Do you have an HD or SD sled? If SD, all you need to do is upgrade your monitor to an HD and make a custom cable for it. It will help with focus. 5V cable I was talking about is for the Kanex converter. For the HyperDeck I just use a straight P-tap to barrel cable If I use a HDMI camera, I just dual lock the recorder on the back of the weight plate. Yes I use those adapters. They are a pain and I am working on modding it with full size SDI. I use Comprehensive MicroFlex HDMI cables. I have a bunch of them they are skinny, flexible and they still work even after taking a beating.