Brett Manyluk

Best bags I've seen are with Northwestern Textiles in Vancouver. They specialize in weather-proof bags for all kinds of Assistant and steadi needs. And they're cheap! Talk to Colin at 604.882.4890

I can also speak for the Marell HB monitor. I picked one up in the summer and it has performed extremely well in full sunlight conditions. It comes with framelines and crosshair and can be "turned down" (pot controlled) to 16:9 or 2:35. Lots of detail in the frame, and so far, lots of brightness to compete with the sun (plus an excellent antiglare filter). It is an economic choice if full sun is your challenge and you don't have the money for the TB-6. Brett Manyluk

Hey Rod! Nice to hear from you. Make sure to check out Steadyrig's new Topstage that is currently touring the world. Looks like they've really done their homeweork. Also make sure that MK-V and Baer-Bel are looked at closely, as they have great products that are well proven in the marketplace. Take care! Brett Manyluk

Thanks Guiddo,

Thanks for all the great advice guys. And yes, I did get the pictures. Just haven't been back here for a while. Those are very helpfull. Question: mounting on the towed sled vs on the Skidoo: which config provides for the less jarring ride? Wouldn't the shocks on the skidoo take out more bumps than banging around in the sled? Not that I hope to be going fast enough to get banged around... Thanks again all, Brett

Hey Bryan, Why don't you take your LCD and add an Anton Bauer plate on the back? Then pop on a dionic 90 and you have a) extra weight, and B) power to run that LCD for, what? 8 hours? I finally bought a new support arm for my EFP. Picked up the XCS dual rail system and it is, of course, awesome. The only thing is you may have to change out is the foam in your road case, or get a longer one if you want your sled to fit with the mount on it. Yoou have to leave the bottom post down aprox 3 - 4 inches to fit the mount, making it longer than the road case. Minor concern, really. Also check out the Baer Bel monitor mount too... looks good I was also thinking of buying one of the T-shaped dual-mount anton bauer plates to add 2 batteries (at 12 volts) off the back, so I could run 3 batteries in total. It would also serve to move the battery weight farther back to offset my considerably heavier new marell monitor. I'll let you know how this works... Fly safe! Brett Manyluk

Yes! Yes! Please mail me some more pics of the skidoo setup. Thanks!! Brett (I'll send you my address)

Thanks Erwin. I'll check it out. Still open to suggestions, photos, or links for any that have info on this subject. Brett

Anyone have experience rigging up on a snowmobile? (Sorry, "sled" for my fellow Hosers) Any pictures of cages or mounts? My understanding is that for my shoot, the terrain will be fairly even, and we're not going that fast (maybe 30kph). The thing that seems like a pickle is that the snowmobile is so low to the ground. Thanks, Brett Manyluk

Dean, I would be happy to do extreme :ph34r: cold testing up here in the soon-to-be-frozen wilds of Western Canada. I had also contacted you a few years ago regarding this product... Thanks, Brett Manyluk

I am also using both the level and the monitor. Both have performed excellently. I have yet to put both through the entire gambit of shooting in all weather conditions, but so far I am very pleased. The High Brightness monitor is very crisp and very clean (and yes, quite bright - very close to the TB 6). The level gives you a ridiculous amount of control over framelines, shadow mask, and level styles, positions, and response. My level also came with a 6 pin lemo that connects to your cell phone and automatically contacts your girlfriend if the shoot goes long. With a software upgrade it can also send flowers if you're out of town on a sixth day. They both seem to be an excellent value. Brett Manyluk

Fed Ex All the way. Anybody else up here in Canada is either a) anoying to deal with, or B) a crappy way to loose gear in a random warehouse. In Canada, watch out for Air Canada cargo, Loomis is pretty shady at times, and UPS may be reliable, but if you miss the drop, they're a pain in the ass to get your gear from in a rush. And you're right about the value claim. Everybody gets jumpy when you tell them what it's really worth. Make sure your steadi insurance will cover it when it is shipped Brett Manyluk

Can't speak for California, but I fly all kinds from Panavision XL's, milleniums, Arricams, Moviecams, 35-3's, & SR3's to All SD video and HD. (I use the Baer-bel arm now. Most 35mm is too heavy for the EFP blue springs, BTW) Once your rig can fly the weight, it's really about your skill as an operator and your skill as a salesperson. Good Luck! Brett

and more: Brett

Hmm, let's see if posting images works: Brett

Bought the arm. I've had 2 years. Love it. in all kinds of weather from +43 celcius to -50 celcius it's a knock out. Springs change in about a minute, and it is very smooth and super strong. In my humble opinion, you will be very pleased with the results. Good luck Brett Manyluk

Hmmm... Anybody out there using one of these ACME gimbals yet? Opinions? Brett "shopping for new gimbal" Manyluk

Hey Bryan, My thoughts on upgrading your EFP package as per my own experiences: I have an EFP that has been fairly modified and will probably continue to be so until enough work comes my way that I can purchase a whole new sled cash. I was recently noticing that Steadyrig out of Auustralia has a groovey dual battery module designed to go right on the stock lower junction box of the EFP that will allow you to carry three anton Bauers and extend the batteries as needed: http://www.steadyrig.com/Battery%20Hanger.htm It looks pretty groovey I'll bet would be a great addition to the sled. Would give you extra options for achieving dynamic balance. I'm kinda thinkin' about one myself... If you need any electronis work done, I highly recommend (as many up here do) David Hable of Cramped Attic Technology: http://www.crampedattic.com Dave built a whole new upper junction box for my sled with Talley and lens control, multiple accesory power, video in, dual camera 12 volt out and camera 24 volt outs for pretty damn cheap. The box is now at the top of my post and my Bartech goes where the old junction box was (as it should be...). He also built and wired a dual battery base, added another whole pile of connectors and an LED walking light underneath (invaluable for going up and down stairs at darkened concerts). I've been using this configuration for 3 years now and I've never had a problem with it. I replaced the plastics in my EFP vest with thicker ABS plastic and it has made a HUGE difference in the control and rigidity. The plastic doesn't crawl up my hip anymore and seems able to take the extreme cold we get up here much better. I also added back straps (highly reccomended) and redid all the velcro. In addition, after a front spar (is that the right name?) failure furing a shoot, I had a thicker, longer one machined from the strongest aircraft aluminum available (which is good, cause we still get BL4's up here). The upgrades to the vest are pretty inexpensive, but really improve your control. I have a new Baer-Bel vest now which I like a great deal as the metal is all much heavier grade. The soft parts were designed and stitched by an ex-airborne Canadian Forces Soldier responsible for upgrading the Canadian Forces' Parachute System. Of course I'm expected to do a steadicam shot while in freefall now... :huh: He designed my new vest to exchange between Velcro closure or Ratchet buckle with a few minutes turnaround. If you would like his number, I'd be happy to pass it along. I believe he may be doing a private tour of Iraq monitoring some important public works sites with several TOW missile systems, but will be back and happy to take on new projects. I also have both old EFP/3a arm and a new Baer-Bel arm which is wonderful to run. I have both sets of springs and the change out takes about a minute. It is super smooth, very, very strong, and extremly well-built. I believe it is an excellent arm at a more aggressive price point than some of the competetion. Of course, make sure to look at Steadyrig, as they can take your existing arm and upgrade it. Or spend the extra, buy a PRO, and be happy in all situations. Lot's of great options out there for steadicam operators. It's better than it's ever been... Hope this little bit of info helps. I've just ordered a new Marell monitor and level, and I'll let any who care on the forum know how well it works (when it finally gets here). Brett Manyluk Edmonton, Canada

Hey Bryan, I have an EFP and it has work marvelous for me. It is (in my humble opinion) a better choice for a starter rig than a 3a as it is much more easily upgraded. The electronics are simpler, and the cabling is up the post already. I can recommend David Hable in Vancouver (www.crampedattic.com) if you're on this side of the pond to do some dual battery work and move your junction box on top of the post and give it all the correct connectors (12/24 volt dual source power, FF power x 3, Talley, connectors, video zoom control connectors, etc...) The base is also easily upgraded to any of the aftermarket bases (Baer-Bel, MK-V, Pro, Glidecam Gold, Jerry Hill, etc...) as are all the other components. You can upgrade at the speed of your pocket book. The arm is the classic 3a workhorse (with the lighter blue springs, painted grey, and named the EFP, but is a 3a actually) but can either be upgraded and beefed up by Steadyrig in Australia, or you can buy a new compression spring arm (Baer-Bel, Pro, or the MK-V when it is ready) and use your EFP as a back up. The vest is pretty good if you add back straps (to stop twisting... generally a $20 addition at any sewing shop). Just watch the main central spar on the vest. It can fatigue and break from poor design and heavier cameras. Just pull it out and give it to your local machine shop and get them to build a newer, beefier version (go with the highest grade Aircraft aluminum too). You should also replace the plastic hip pad with the thicker ABS plastic for $50 and some some dremelling and hand drilling and you'll be good to go. The EFP is an excellent starter rig that can be easily upgraded to compete well with new products, or can be run stock for video, HD, and 16mm shooots to allow you to save for your new system. Good luck! Brett Manyluk Edmonton, Alberta Canada

Hey Layton, Try to track down Brian Trieb from Toronto either on here or elsewhere. He has experience with these systems and may have contacts into the states for rental. Good Luck! Brett Manyluk

I'd also be interested to know what happens to Carbon Fiber at temperatures around -40 celcius. How does this material handle extreme cold? How does this compare to titanium and aluminum? And if so, if you were running the sled at full extension (say, super low mode with a heavy 35mm) would this introduce structural issues? Thanks, Brett (Brrrr) Manyluk

You can always use a very slight tweek on one of the pots to make it match again when it goes on. Use the same marks (Don't use the end of the travel of the lense, it's better to work with the markings if possible), and retouch the pot slightly if it is out at all. The most change I ever see is about a witness mark width on the hand set, and you can tweek that out. Brett Manyluk

Hey Layton, Obviously no one has ever heard of the infamous "Saskatchewan camera" before ;) ... Good luck getting more money, I know how it goes here in the praires. If you have to, maybe look into one of the old CP Low Mode cages, they may have rods long enough. But, I don't recommend flying this spinecrusher low mode if you absolutely don't have to. Good luck either way. It's well into the minus 30's for the next few weeks. Brett Manyluk (I'm the Edmonton guy BTW. Heard lots of good things about you, but never had the chance to meet)

Right, good day, eh? Here in the blustery Great White North Li-ions go down HARD when the temperature drops. Perhaps those of you shooting in moderate climates don't see much change, but the good 'ol nicad outperforms li-ions when the temperature gets below -20 celcius, and very much more dramaticly below -40 celcius. If you're in LA or Australia, this probably will not be an issue untill the next ice age, but if you'e a liittle farther north and you shoot in snow for any length of time, go for the big Anton Bauer nicads. Now, I should specify that the li-ion info is gathered from working with Sony and IPX batteries and not the Pag system or Anton Bauers. I would hope their performance is a little stronger. I run propacs, trimpacs, proformers in all sorts of combinations on my sled and they muscle through the cold weather rather well (especially considering they are all well-cycled batteries). My 2 cents is enjoy the li-ions on warm days or inside, and keep big ni-cads ready for 435 work, and igloo drama. Take off, eh... Brett

I wanted to write a response to the previous comments, but I'm late for my Secret Canadian Agenda meeting. <_< Brett Manyluk