RobVanGelder

The Bearbel Dogcatcher does not maintain center of gravity, it´s just a simple, but well designed wedgeplate. I am not shure the Chrosziel version maintains the CoG, as it seems to be a rocking wedgeplate (± 20 degrees) but notas the one from Tiffen, which also slides back and forth while tilting. The last one has in fact 2 different radia in which it moves, that´s why it makes a shift as well as a tilt . More sophisticated and thus more research & expensive. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

I had the same experience with an SL, the other day. Not that it´s video-assist is so bad, but when they start shooting on 500ASA and push one stop, there is just not enough to work with...... So I quickly put together a +30Db video amplifier between the assist and the video-input of the sled ( I happened to have one print ready (?25))(not between the sled and the LCD because you will overload it with the framelinegenerator that is always 100%) and I could see at least where my actors were. But forget about other stuff, like stands or coffeecups in the background, no way you can see them in this case. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Just be careful with those generics. I bought a box of 50 DVD-R from the electronics mall here, ok, I know, cheap, always the possibility that you are ripped off and what happens: the first 10 or so are OK, they work and I can replay them, but then there is suddenly a problem. They write alright in my TDK multistandard ( extern)recorder, but I cannot run them on my IBM laptop anymore. Look carefully......... They look the same as the first 10 but on the other side, near the hole: DVD+R burned in. Yes, I have been ripped off, 40 disks that are not readable on every computer! Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand DVD-fooled1 DVD-fooled2

What kind of camera are you looking for? I´ve seen so many different camera´s here in Bangkok, some as small as a sugar cube. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Amsterdam

Hi Will, you are absolutely right about the angles to maintain. Cutting back and forth between shots made with different lenses on the same subject have to be in some way similar or totally different. When it´s slightly off, it looks odd, most of the time. About the drop-in tilt plate: I have tried to make one, and they are available from different manufactures I think,(baerbel, try also Chrosziel) But with all these drop in you will experience the basic limit: the front of the topstage/FF-driverbox is often in the way to make a serious tilt down. This is because you will most likely replace the CG of the camera backwards ( on the for-aft adjustment) as it is moved forward by the tilting. That means that the bars of your camera will be even closer to the topstage front. That´s why I made mine to fit underneath the topstage and I think this is the only good place for it. That´s also the reason why Tiffen and Chrosziel went this way. Of course there are possibilities with a "Dogcacher" kind of plate, but I tried it and it was not enough to bother. Also, any drop-in plate will raise the camera height from the the gimbal considerably and with a 20-30 degrees angle you might have difficulties raising your gimbal enough. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

You could give them one of those receiver-lcd´s with the 1,2 or 2,4 receiver build in, weights about 400 grams without battery. Sold by the dozen in Bangkok, made in Taiwan I think. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

That´s interesting.... can you tell us how-what program, what do I need to make it work? Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

I guess we ALL want to have such an item lying somewhere...... You can throw as many bottles in the sea as you want.... :) :) Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Hi, Crossing cables are always a big problem with the IIIa arms. I had similar problems and could not really solve it. So I just checked almost every working day and adjusted them when they got out of line. I guess it is something you have to live with. I think you can put something like LockTite between the inserts and the springs but I doubt if it helps. The flex and forces in the springs are so high that it is not likely to work. But keep checking, if you neglect it you will ruin the plastic coating of the cables and possible the pullies will be damaged by the steel core. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Today I had the first shooting where I could try out the tilt-plate. The shot was a POV from a man looking for a girl, so fast pans left and right to spot all those beautiful Thai ladies as he walks past them...... Immeadiately I saw a big improvement in the panning and keeping the horizon level! Very happy I made it! Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Jamie, is that true, Teletest has a HD monitor? About the difference between Transvideo and Teletest: there is some difference, but very little in mine opinion and some other operators At the last workshop I did in Sweden, september last year, I was able to compare the output and resolution from the Teletest, the Panasonic, the Ikegami and the Cinemonitor from Transvideo and mine was one of the brightest. The Transvideo has some extra features, like greenscreen and a frame-memory and a voltage display. Also, it handles over-exposure a bit better, koops the detail due to improved electronics (limiter?) One Danish operator walked in one day and saw the Teletest, he had never heart of it before. He was instantly sold and mentioned without asking that it was brighter than his Transvideo. But for the weight, the light-output and power consumption I think the Teletest is a very good choice. (for the money) Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

The new arm design is nice, but I have made more scratched with the knob that holds in in place on the harnass than with the arm itself. Also I find a good use sometimes for the space that was there with the original design: a walky-talky that connected me to some screaming director behind a monitor 200 meters away...... But it sure looks nice! Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand.

I saw the Tamuz monitors and the range of models once at IBC and was..... not really impressed. The housing was a bit crude, the screens not particulary bright. So I went for Teletest, an afforable monitor at around $1500 at that time, might be a bit more now. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

You could be right, but then again, why do you want to buy 2 arms? Perhaps for that running rig, but it would be a hefty price to pay for a limited use. (And do we really want to run?) And we all know what happens if you give us an arm that is in principle capable of carrying heavy cameras but lacks the spring-power: we beef-up the arm with extra heavy springs, elastic bands etc. The structure might not like that at all. My belief is dat the basic structure must be capable of lifting the maximum load, without damage. Add springs when needed. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Hi Erwin, I recall an IBC (3 years ago?) where Howard showed me a double hinged elbow. It was a prototype then. I never saw an MK-V XO-arm again. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Looking at it, I like to say that Panavision had a similar setup of all the parts as today´s High Tech Rigs. It was already slim-lined, a bit similar as a Hill-rig, a Bearbel or a Pro 1. It was for sure ahead of it´s time, in design. A pity that all the accessories that we appreciate nowadays were not available or invented at that time. Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Hi Flemming. I had a similar problem a few weeks ago with my Master gimbal. I found out that the alignment in the fork bearings was not correct and this caused the off-balance. This is "easily" corrected on the Master gimbal, I don´t know what kind you have. In my case it turned out to be the adjustible axes in the forkbearings that were not locked anymore by their little Allen bolts. So everytime I tilted or turned, they would work themself in some direction (there is always a little bit of friction, specially fully loaded) and would make more play in one way. Try to move the gimble sideways. If this is possible (without load) you have to get rid of the play. Then, you have to center it as well, as you can remove the play but still be off-center. It´s a bit of trial and error procedure,but I got rid of my problem! Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Oh, what happened to the double elbow that I was shown on the same show? It´s not on this picture anymore. The concept has been abandoned? Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

I am just wondering about this design. I have seen it once on the IBC, and it worked as you can expect from this design. However, I have my doubts about the rigidity of the construction. As we all know, there are problems with some arms regarding hair fractures/cracks and when I look at these segments I see that all the stress is going through some Allen bolts, that hold the parts together. Sure it will work at first, but also after a long and stressfull period (heavy load)? Bolts work themself loose, specially in torqued conditions. Threads can rip apart and it just doesn´t look strong enough to me. The same elements used in the rig is good, but that is a static setup, with no internal forces. But used in an arm....... I don´t know. :huh: <_< Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

These new transmitters are in some countries legal and in others not. Here in Bangkok I found from the same factory transmitters from 1.2, 2.4 and 5 GHz. And in different wattages. Anyway, 1,5 watts is always too much and always illegal. (But not in Thailand apparently). I have a similar transmitter, 0,5 watts, also illegal and I found that the output can interfere with other electronic equipment, like monitors and recorders. Use good quality cables and shielding. Works very well though. That said, it´s not so much the output of the transmitter as the quality of the receiver that makes the final result/image. Most of the time you will use it in a range of 10 to 30 meters(100ft) and anything from 10 milliWatts can give a decent picture in the GHz range. But for unobstructed line of sight over long distances(1 to 5 kms) you can try the 5GHz 1 watt! And be VERY illegal! Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

A Better design? I don´t know if it is better but I saw at the last IBC a IIIa look-a-like but with steel blades instead of cables, so some people do try to make it different. But with this high tech new design on Erwins picture I can already foresee that my arms will be scrached open by the blue metal "knife" Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

I´m sorry, but even 2.800 is too much for this Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Hi Jack, My practice cage consists of 2 pieces of square, 8 x 8 cms tube aluminium, 1 is about 45 cms long and the other is about 30 cms. Thickness of the material approx 4 mms. Put them tohether so that you have an open space in front of the top-tube and here you can plase some kind of holder/screw for your DV camera. Then I put cement in them, the quick drying type and filled them up. Find the center of the mass from this block and put your plate from the steadicam on the right spot, drill the good holes in it and thread it with the official screws (3/8") Now you have a slim line heave weight, approx. 10 kgs, which is a reasonable practice-weight- Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Yeah, they really know what they are talking about... Look, you can use the official Arri follow focus with it, Now I will definately sell my Preston system! Also, what is this thing made off? Lead? or Uranium? It can hardly be with a 3 second drop-time with so little weight on the bottom. Perhaps you can only fly it without film..... Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

Nikk, The main problem with most low mode setups is that the arm and it´s post is too close to the rig, and in the switch you can hit the battery or even the camera. This can also be the case in normal mode but when you have to raise the camera to maximum height. My way to avoid this is a little round bar of aluminium, diametre 2,5 cm/1", approx 12-15 cms long (5-6") with on one side a hole that slides over the existing post and on the other side a short stub that fit´s in the gimbal. That way you put the arm further away from the rig and in most cases you can steer clear of your battery or even the camera. Drill a hole through the stud and you can turn it upside down, with a pin through the gimbal for even lower shots Hope this helps, Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand,