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Lars Erik

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Everything posted by Lars Erik

  1. Has anyone actually seen footage from this camera? I understand it uses dual exposures of both high and low gain signal to create one HDR image. Sounds fantastic.
  2. As Eric statet, make sure the batteries are fixed. Then do a tilt, and when you do, listen if there are any odd "click" noises. Also have your hand on the top stage and on the gimbal. Feel for any vibration. If this does happen, something might be loose. And yes, it doesn't take much at all to tilt the rig several degrees off.
  3. Justin, which rig do you own? I've had similar problems with my rigs. Most probable cause is that something is shifting. LE
  4. Ron, the new T/x have new antennas. They are similiar to the antennas on the Titan HD R/x. Only that Boxx has 2 antennas. For costumers who have the first version with the humongous antennas, they do an upgrade. Boxx will change the antennas to the new ones for £250. As a result, range will also improve 10%. LE
  5. Hey Gustavo, congrats with the funding. Godspeed on the film. I'll cross my fingers for you! All the best LE
  6. Lars Erik

    U2c

    Oh man, who's the idiot. That's me. :lol: Tusen takk mann! Beste hilsner Lars-Erik
  7. Lars Erik

    U2c

    Hi Robin, I mean that the digital level isn't correct. When the rig is standing on a flat floor, and all manual bubbles on the rig is showing that the floor is level, the digital level that's in the U2, is showing the opposite. LE
  8. Lars Erik

    U2c

    I'm starting to think someone uo there didn't want me to buy this new rig. I have discovered a new problem now. The digital level in the monitor is off! I've crosschecked it many times with two different manual bubbles. Same result. Does anyone know how to adjust this level, is it even possible? Man, I feel unlucky at the moment... :unsure: LE
  9. Lars Erik

    U2c

    Hello, I have a dumb question. I recently got the U2c. And trying on the low-mode handle, the safety pin doesn't go all the way through both holes. It goes into the first hole, then stops, this due to a mismatch between the hole on the low-mode handle and the hole ont the handle on the yoke. Is this normal? I doubt it, but has anyone experienced something similar? LE
  10. I've seen real football (American Football) in 3D, and by god 3D was made for it. it was awesome Hmm...maybe my door will be more open towards 3D in sports. Can't wait to see a finished result, as it has just been shown on American football, I have to wait to see the end result on real football (soccer).
  11. Ok, I've seen Avatar. Story not that good, but the technology was pleasing and very interesting. I don't think it's quite there yet. It still needs a few years to become truly competative with 2D in the long run. But great fun. Now I just read that Sky is aiming to start showing Premiere League games in 3D. Maybe I missed something here, but to me it just seems that Sky is just going with all the hype of 3D these days. I really don't see the point of going 3D on a football game. To me it could be more distracting than anything else. Watching the likes of Rooney and Fabregas running around the pitch is best viewed in 2D, so you can see the passes and dribbling and the goals more clearly. Sure, it could be fun in 3D, but I hope it stays in 2D. That said, I'm always open to new ideas, so before seeing the footage in 3D, I'll keep my own door open for the possibilities of football in 3D. http://www.guardian.co.uk/media/2010/jan/2...r-united-3d-sky
  12. When hired on a feature or tv drama, I always just shut the f**k up, but I usually ask simple questions if I don't understand what the shot is about, or unsure about the mood of the scene. I listen to the director and the DP for what they want and have little suggestions before the shot (unless the shot is somehow dangerous for me or the rig, then I come up with alternatives). As Chris stated, they've been planning this for a long time and probably know more than you (I hope). :blink: After the shot, I always focus my attention at the DP after the shot. If he/she seems a bit unhappy in any way, I usually just ask "was the shot fine, or do you want something a little bit different?" I don't shout this out, but calmly walk over to the DP and ask it with a low and confident voice. I don't involve the director at this point, if the DP considers doing it differently, he'll/she'll tell the director. This way you don't break the chain of command and the DP also acts a quality filter for the director. Then I feel safe coming up with suggestions about a slightly different shot, if they want something changed. (they usually never want something completely different, stay in the same ball park.) If you start to discuss every shot you disagree with the DP, you'll waste a lot of valuable time, and you'll have a tough time getting hired again. In my experience you have to be good at operating, fast in set-up and know when to speak and when to shut the hell up! My 2 cents LE
  13. Hi Charles, I used a SD Panasonic 7" monitor. LE
  14. Hi Charles, the signal breaks up, as if you would be hardwired and you had a bad BNC cable. So a total loss of picture. When we used this unit, mind you this was 2 years ago, I seem to recall we used 9v batteries. But I can't be 100% sure this was the case. Maybe the unit works better now, but I doubt it. It doesn't have any delay, which is good, but in the end, it was way too unstable to be used. Even with such a low price tag.
  15. Hi Ricky, tried these, and they're basically useless. They work ok, until you start to move. Only good thing about them is the size. LE
  16. 2 more pictures... sorry about the grainy pictures, low light situation and had to use high ASA.
  17. Hi all, had a shoot yesterday doing a commercial for the military and thought I'd share my views of the boxx Meridian Elite system. This is a complex system if you use it to its full extent, and I don't feel qualified to speak about the whole unit. But I feel confident enough to speak about picture range and quality of the picture. Alec; they will be changing the antennas on the T/x. They will be identical to the R/x. This has been decided because of Steadicam operators. Tech specs shoot: Camera - Panasonic AJ-HPX3000 HD w/ Pro35 Rig- Ultra2c Monitor - Panasonic BT-LH1700W 17" HD monitor Batteries (powering the R/x) - IDX Endura 7s, Lithium Ion Batteries (powering rig, Arri Wireless Focus Unit WFU-3 24v, T/x) - IDX Steadicam Power Cubes Camera+PS powered by camera battery Tech specs Boxx R/x: Height - 15.5cm/6.10" (version w/o antennas) Depth (w/ IDX battery plates on both sides) - 7cm/2.75" Wide - 14.5cm/5.70" Weight - 760g/1.67lbs Power - 6.5-30V DC 9 Watts on 4pin Hirose or 2.1mm DC jack Tech specs Boxx T/x: Height - 15.5cm/6.10" (+12.4cm/4.88", antennas) Depth - 3.8cm/1.49" Wide - 16cm/6.29" Weight - 727g/1.60lbs Power - 6.5-30V DC 9Watts on 4pin and 2.1mm DC jack The unit is very, very user friendly. Just decide on what frequency you want to use, and the R/x and T/x will find each other. The unit works on the 5GHz WI-FI Channel system. Frequency can be set on these channels, 1600 - 1800 - 2000 - 2200 - 2400 - 7450 - 7650 - 7850 - 8050 - 8250 - 8625. You can also use Auto. Is has 4 region options. Europe, US, Japan and Custom. On Custom you can set the frequency you want ranging from 1600 to 8625. If you choose a region, the unit will stay within the approved channels of that region. Of course, everyone will use custom. The R/x unit doesn't require too much power. Our shoot lasted for 11 hours. And we only changed batteries once. The unit was on at all times. Including lunch and dinner. Additional R/x can be used to widen the range of the unit. The T/x can be delivered with IDX battery plate. I decided against this, because I felt it would limit my options. So I power it directly from the rig, and use velcro and a strap to safely protect it should the velcro fail. There is a LCD display on both units, telling you if you have a picture. If there is a problem with the units, the display will tell you what's wrong. The shoot: First of all I want to say this, I was really unsure about spending $10.000 on a HD wireless unit. It's a lot of money just to be able to send an image. I had a SD unit that was good, and was unsure about the benefits I would gain from spending that much money. After using it a few times now, I must say it is really great. What did we do before having an HD unit? The focus puller and DP was very impressed with the image, and they kept saying that's really sexy. I kind of agree, not quite sure what "sexy" is, but a good word to describe it I guess. The image is crystal clear, and the colours are accurate. The focus puller mostly sat by the monitor and pulling, so he was happy. There is no delay. The signal is 1080. When the signal is getting bad, it starts by breaking the picture up, and when the signal is lost, video village goes black. The Meridian Elite can show all formats, so when you shoot SD or film that doesn't have HD output, you just use composite. No delay here either. The range of the unit did impress me. We were in a big military airplane hangar for the commercial, and there was lots of boxes and containers in the room, blocking the unit from having line of sight. Still worked great. The longest range the units were apart was about 60 meters, this without line of sight. No effect to the signal. One note, after done some testing before, it seems like that composite will give you slightly longer range than HD, so if you have a shot with very long range, one can try to use composite. We did have a couple of shots outside the hangar, then the unit went black. Hangar doors are very thick and there was double doors. We used channel 8625 for this shoot, no special reason, that was what it was on from last time, and it worked fine. Changing channels is easy. That said, my experience is the higher the channel, the stronger the signal. All 2000 channels I'm not that impressed with. Shorter range. So I try not to use those. One note, did a test in my own house which is a six floor house, the R/x on the top floor and I could go down 3 floors before signal got weak. Personally I'm very happy with the unit and only look forward to new adventures with it on my rig. PS! I have the User guide on PDF if anyone wants to read it. It's too huge to post here. 2MB and 40 pages. Let me know if you want it. My humble 2 cents. LE
  18. This isn't a single case I'm afraid. A different company and a different set of producers/executives from the UK did the same thing here in Norway. Only thing is that the crew got suspicious, so the lead sound engineer confiscated all the sound. The DP didn't deliver the rolls for print, but had to eventually due to fearing the film stock would get ruined. A very big american actress played in it. She was smart enough to demand her pay up front. But she was really cool when she heard what the producers did, she said she would refuse to do any sort of commercial work until the crew got paid. Then the production company offered not money, but "shares" in the film to the crew eventually, so if the film went well in the cinema, they would get paid. Everybody turned that down of course. After 2 1/2 years, and legal battles, all the crew had got their money. There are lots of crooks and people without any sort of empathy in this business. There are some of these over here too, but only once there has been someone as bad as the stories here. Well actually, worse... LE
  19. Tried to get tally using the tally cable from Tiffen. I had tally from the camera control into the camera, but when I tried to use the cable, no tally on my monitor. When I switch on the rig, the tally light on the monitor flashes red once. So that should be working. I suspect it must be the cable. But want to check out all possibilities before I have to buy a new cable. I have the U2c with the 700' nit monitor. The cable has always worked when usinn it on my Archer. Anyone experienced anything like this? Also tried turning the tally sensor on the right hand side of the top stage. LE
  20. Lars Erik

    Ultra2

    Great. Thanks for the reply, Lukas. Fly safe! LE
  21. Lars Erik

    Ultra2

    Hi all, just want to make sure this is correct. My docking ring is tightened onto the lower end of the top post clamp. Is this correct? Someone told me it shouldn't be, it should be tightened onto the post. But if I try to tighten it onto only the post itself, the ring won't attach very good. So anybody know what the right procedure is? Thanks LE
  22. Holy crap! $2000 a week! Just out of curiousity, if it's a UNION show, doesn't the producer have to pay a MINIMUM wage, and not pay that kind of shocking, idiotic and provocative salary? Oh I get it. Is it a one day work every week? That must be it right? :blink: LE
  23. Robin, the shift is less than 1mm. It's not that I can see it very good, because the shift is so small. But I can feel and hear it. Does that make any sense? Is this a case you can fix in the UK or does the rig need to be sent to the US? LE
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