Lars Erik
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Posts posted by Lars Erik
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Yup, interested here too.
According to Reduser, don't know how reliable info there is, it's now compatible with Heden and will start delivering in August...
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It looks nice. And the price is amazing. If it works. $5400.
Anybody played around with this Tiltamax FF?
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Good point Thomas.
I was in no way trying to dishearten Cameron's hopes of getting a stabilized image. Just being honest and upfront. But I see that I could have been more encouraging towards his dreams. Sometimes we forget were we all started.
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Hi Cameron,
first of all, Steadicam is a profession that takes years to master. So buying one and training for a few months and expect to get great results might be a disapointment to you. I have no idea about the products you've mentioned, as most of us has $25K rigs and upwards.
But I know Tiffen has come outh with a unit called the Solo. It's basically a lightweight Steadicam that also can become a monpod, not sure if it will be both at the same time. So if you're doing a stabilized shot, and expect to go to monopod w/o ruining your stabilizeed shot, then I'm not sure if it will work. Reading your post it seems that this unit is as close as you can get.
Anyway, here's the link to the product.
http://www.tiffen.com/steadicam_solo.html
PS! Workshops are held if you want to take one. And buy the book "Steadicam Operator's Handbook" by Jerry Holway. It's $35 and investement well spent.
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WTF were they thinking over at the casting office?
What's next? Christian Bale playing the role as President Obama?
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Hi Kurtis,
welcome to this forum. As a long-time camera operator I'm sure you've come across several different brands and units, and of course you know that a certain quality has a price tag to it in the world of media. Same goes for the Steadicam world. You get what you pay for.
But before doing aything, I would strongly advise you to take a workshop or at the least get a hold of Holway/Hayball "The Steadicam Operator's Handbook." Or talk to ops you may know or are in your area.
http://www.amazon.com/Steadicam%C2%AE-Operators-Handbook-Jerry-Holway/dp/024082380X
Steadicam is a craft that take years to master. I've been doing it for 10 years now, and it's in the last 3 I think I've become a good operator. I'm not trying to de-moralize your efforts to become an operator, I'm just saying it's not about just buying a rig and start shooting.
Whatever you do, good luck. Steadicam is a great profession and fantastic fun.
PS! If you do decide to do a workshop, I've taken the liberty of pasting in some worskhops below.
http://www.thesteadicamworkshops.com/schedule.shtml
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I still use my SD Archos, even though everything else on my rig is HD. After shoots, specially those where the job is more than just one day, I like to check my operating. Invaluable in my eyes.
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As mentioned before, you need to meet up with your client, and ask what they are looking for in the end product. Explain to them the cons and pros for each camera. As Emmanuel said, using a 7D will greatly limit you when it comes to focusing.
Don't know your skills, but you say you're new to the Pilot. Perhaps I'm jumping to conclusions here, but I'm guessing you're still very new to operating a rig in general? If so, you'll have enough worrying just to get a movement you and your client will be happy with. So perhaps choosing the camera with less focusing issues would be a wise move?
Good luck with the project. Fly safe.
LE
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Love the vest and see no need for any re-design. Passing judgment on a new product like this after 30 minutes of wear is pointless to me. It needs to be worn for a some days to completely understand it's use.
I was too unsure after a few days of use with it. But will never go back to a regular vest now.
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Alec, we had to cycle power on both if I remember correctly.
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Just used the 2000 unit on a tv-series. I own theboxx myself, but production had the 2000 unit. Similar experience as Brooks had. Good unit with good range, but the start-up time just killed us sometimes. Half the time, the director chose to look at either my monitor or a playback.
They really need to fix that start up time, specially for crews who's shooting fast, as the case is for most Norwegian sets.
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Are you guys talking about true 24v batteries, or 12v batteries run parallel thus creating 24v?
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Hi Thomas,
thanks for the reply. I'll let you know if my search is successful. I know the good ones have a price tag on them, spoken on numerous occasions with Scott at theboxx. He said that it's a fine line between the quality of the build of the antennas and price tag. I have 4 military style ones, unbreakable but twice as big as the smaller antennas.
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Love the system, the antennas are crap. Break easily.
I seem to remember that they're about £100 pounds each from theboxx directly. Anybody know if there's a more cost friendly antennas that is compatible with the Merdian system?
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Mathieu,
to be fair to Greg and James, I think most who said it would replace steadicam had little or no experience. The more experienced ops were never worried. I think it's a nice tool for certain shots.
After it's appearance, I have actually seen a few times having one would come in handy. But have been reluctant to get one due to price, weight limit and set up time.
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Hi Lawrence, I can add dead weight to it, but was hoping to use a mass that was useful.
Alan, maybe, but something feels odd when I try to remove the cover. I'll have to contact Tiffen directly to find out
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Oh. Bummer. So I guess the NP is a no go. Oh well, $20 out the window.
Thanks Lawrence.
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Hello,
so I have this monitor on my rig, and I find it a little bit on the light side. So I bought a battery plate for the Sony NP-970 batteries, which will give it enough for my needs.
But the back of the monitor only has screws for V-lock style, and the screws for the 970 plate is probably behind the plate on the picture. I'm cautious about trying to break open the plastic plate on the monitor. Anybody has any experience with this?
Thanks for any replies.
All the best
Lars-Erik
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Hmmm. It seems that several ops have this problem. Pardon me if I don't completely understand why this is happening, but since it seems to be an issue that's been around for a while, why haven't Tiffen solved it?
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Alex, welcome to the forum.
I have no clue about your skill as an operator. My question is; does this person who can get you started in sporting events know your skills? Just asking in case he/she is not 100% convinced when they see you operate. If they have seen you, and are happy, please ignore this question.
Now, to your question regarding the purchase of a rig. Many new operators have asked the same question here. Myself included years back. Do a proper research of what market you're aiming at, and then get an understanding of what the needs of those markets are. Make a list of those markets needs. Camera weight, power cables, do they need FF, wireless video, zoom controller and so on. Ask other operators if you're unsure. When this is complete, your choice of rig will be easier.
Giving advice in the purchase of a rig is always tricky, because everyone has different needs. I'm used with Tiffen rigs, others lean more to GPI PRO and so forth. But I will give you a couple of advices. Listen to Sanjay and buy used if you can, and don't buy a rig you think you'll quickly outgrow.
Whatever you do…good luck and fly safe.
All the best
LE
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Thanks everyone. I'll look into the Misfit.
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Really didn't know where to put this thread, but trying it out here.
I'm looking into in buying a clamp-on matte box. It must have at least room for 2 filters, and they must be 4x5.6.
Did look at the Birns & Sawyer one. But have no experience with them whatsoever. Anybody used it before? Have any other tips? I know Arri's line is probably the best, but if one is lower in price and does the same job...
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Ok. Thanks guys. I'll try the easy solution first, then I'll contact Evrim to buy his "Evrim fix" if all else fails… :rolleyes:
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Having problems with a brand new Archer 2 top-stage. Sometimes when I lock the camera onto the stage, I can still slide the camera using a little force. I then have to tighten the little screw which is on the locking clamp on the stage. (Red circle in the picture)
Anybody know how to fix this? Thought about lock-tite, but unsure if that's a good idea...
Looking for a good on-board monitor. Recommendations?
in Monitors
Posted
Hi Henry,
If I'm not mistaken, BON also makes Ikan products, which is a brand more people are familiar with.
I have the BON 1100nit FM-072SCH monitor myself, an outdoor monitor. I'm pleased with it. It has all the connections in a HD monitor you'd expect. HD-SDI x 2, HDMI in+out, HD-SDI out, USB, etc.
It has 3/8 mounting holes on the bottom and the top, and you can buy a stand for it.
It has a waveform and false color. The only thing I'm missing, is a anti-reflective screen. But that is seldom a problem. Just a few times I miss it. I think the monitor is listed to $2K now. So it's in the lower pricing range within the daylight viewable monitors.
You can power it through a Sony NP battery, or A/B, V-lock or get a power cable.
But don't take my word for it. When you're buying anything that costs more than $1K, I'd advise you to check out the unit personally.
LE