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Quaid Cde Baca

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Everything posted by Quaid Cde Baca

  1. Looking for any full size Jr./ Sr. cart with or compatible with a steadicam post on the cart for my sled to live.
  2. Same troubles here. It's been 4 months now since Don had received my motor, and has gone dormant since not getting back to me on any calls or emails. Very frustrating, and I just want my motor back at this point.
  3. Look for a used or new teradek bolt PRO package to upgrade to. Im in LA, or can pay shipping, international too. Thanks.
  4. All the cables as followed: crossbow power to: - Alexa - P tap Transmitter power to: - USB P tap to USB USB to mini USB .5m HDMI 1m HDMI Receiver power to: - AC wall - USB
  5. IDX wireless video package Like the paralinx but through IDX, same robust signal. Uses native HDMI connections, but comes with the paralinx crossbow HDSDI to HDMI converter, and Atoms HDMI to HDSDI converter for the receiving end for video village. HDMI or HDSDI (or any combination) you can run it with this package. Got all the bits n pieces to connect and power it too. Everything included. $1200
  6. Included additional: - Rolling production case - Padding - Air balder - Straps - Buckel - Air pump - Screws - REGULAR arm adapter - Waist expander bit
  7. I am 5'8" and 32" inch waist but the vest is clearly capable of going to roughly 6 1/2 feet tall and 45" waste, its incredibly universal with many adapters padding and expansion waist brackets. Also the goofy to regular operating arm adapter. The serial number is 008. $2500+ shipping or pick-up around LA area?
  8. Klassen back mounted vest, i have the adaptor plate to switch the arm position form goofy and regular. Also tons of extra padding and a bag, bladder support, and extra buckles. $2,500 + shipping or LA/ OC pick up.
  9. I have one with all the thing you ask for + 3 hard solid focus disks, case, back up motor and power cables, extension antennas. For $3,200 + shipping/ LA pickup
  10. Hello all, So the other day I stopped by Tiffen to mess around with some of their gear (Mike Craig and the guys were way cool and nice about everything, helping me out). I fly a Master sled, arm, with a Klassen vest and an Elite vest (for different called situations. The Klassen, I can more easily endure heavier weight, and longer endurance for live event. The Elite, is smaller and feels snug, but the socket block pushes more on me. The Exovest I tried on at Tiffen was... 'new' for me. So bare bone, and more of a harness than a steadicam vest. It has thick padding on the shoulders and waist (much more than the klassen shoulder pads). It is so basic, but performs INCREDIBLY. I had the socket block in the front (interchangeable goofy or regular/ front or back within seconds) for ~30 minutes while flying around the building and talking to Mike and Zack, and I didn't feel anywhere near the pressure that I would have with my Klassen or Elite vest within the same 30 minutes. It's very free, contrary to a standard vest that hugs your body, the Exovest is open and has few contact points, but works magically. Another big thing for me was the hip/ waist padding was able to rotate with your hips. It was very very comfortable and free moving to my operating. Also the rods on the front and back section collapse and extend easily and can literally fit ANY body. The vest collapses to ~1.5 feet to extend to ~2.5 feet (all roughly to what i can remember). I am a very small guy 5'8". The Elite vest at it's smallest fitting barely fits me, the Exo has zero issues with fitting. Mike roughly fitted it for me in 2 minutes and it suited me great! Overall, I would best describe the Exovest to feel free and healthy. It does oddly enough feel healthy on my back and open to any position and move. It WILL be my next big buy for sure.... let me know if anyone is in the market for a Klassen and/or Elite vest!
  11. Thanks Tuomas! I was think of that same method. Even now theorizing that if I were to just disconnect all the internal wiring from the top stage and K section, I could preserve all the original wiring (if i needed to go back for whatever reason), and then just run that coiled electronics down the post to the D & J box arrangement you had described. Though the lower D-Box may have to be places higher up in regards to the length of the overall coiled cable. But it seams very simple that. way.
  12. I have the same monitor. Do you know of any yokes for it?
  13. Great advice about the early V1/2! What if I did use the newer V2.5 or V3 electronics? I like how simple it is though and eliminates all the internal wiring and simplifies it to a single coiled post wire. Ideally I was curious about adding this in order to have 3 batteries for continuous camera power via the sled (I have been limited to powering off camera), HDSDI, 12v/ 24v power, and robust LEMO ports. If I try to power camera via the sled now, but if I fly an Alexa or F65 or such, I am limited on which batteries I can use and my sled needs the giant Anton 140 for weight balance. I should get a new sled, but I'm financially impaired as a fairly new operator. What work arounds have you guys found that work best for powering cameras and other master sled issues. Thanks for all the advice, anything to help me to know my sled better and become a better operator.
  14. Hello Master sled owners, How crazy would I be to try and replace the current (old) wiring of the master sled with newer electronics of MK-V. To have the upper J-Box mounted under the nose > coiled wire down the post > D-Box in the K-section, replacing the controls for the frame line generator, ports would be accessible on either side of the sled. Then with MK-V upgrades, adapt their dual battery plate to the current plate (plug-in wiring to the D-Box), and a third battery mounted to the K-secotion front, replacing the 24v converter box. All using the MK-V V1 electronics with a similar set up to the Model 3 sled. All to have a simple upgrade, to adapt the master sled to more easily fly newer cameras, with: simpler wiring, 12v/24v use, HDSDI, more AUX power, and more batteries to power camera. ***Excuse my crapy attempted illustration.
  15. Although mine is the 95th unit made (~13 years old), I loose a solid connection past ~30feet line of sight. it begins to lag, and sometimes not even respond in very very close distances with no interceptions.
  16. Hi, I have an older 8-bit chip analogue Bartech unit with M-One motor. Occasionally I will be on a rest in-between shot and even during some shots, the motor will freak out and begin to sound like it's trying to move. It will not move but it will go on the fritz and sometimes twitch. All this happens also when my 1st AC isn't even touching the hand unit. That's what's so odd.
  17. I have had the same issue and solved it since. I found that i did also crank that dog bone down hard, also the motor to the dog bone and then used the single 15mm rod to adjust the motor from the lens to calibrate each lens change. so everything it tight and solid and you only loosen the 15mm rod to pull back the motor from the lens. that way it only one thing to deal with. When my motor was kicking off it was the 15mm rail that was not tightened all the way. I have heard of "maybe" scratching the adapter bit so it has more grip? or using a Jerry Hill dog bone (allen wrench needed [he has a new one with a crank] but rock solid). But do NOT use gaff tape (the adhesive will only come loose and become another mess).
  18. Used Klassen back mounted vest with plate for the back arm to swap for goofy, and regular position. I have a bag of extra padding and the current pads are brand new. Also I have an assortment of new parts for the vest, air bladder, and screws and brackets for back ups. $3000 free shipping, or I'd welcome a trade for a side mounted vest (Pro, [Master/ Ultra + cash]) I'm located in south Orange County, but frequently work in LA. Quaidcdebaca@gmail.com
  19. Hello, How difficult/ what is the process for re-wiring a Master series sled to support HDSDI? Maybe even swap out the 4 pin HiROSE to be all 2 pin LEMOs and throw on another Aton plate to the front of the K section too. I plan on keeping this sled for a few years so upgrading it is not a option, just wanted to try and bring it up-to-date. It all seams like a challenge over my head, is there anyone to be recommended for this in the LA area? Trying to know what i am getting into before I make the first step. Thanks.
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