Jordan Keslow

Hi Jorge,

Just beware when you ask this question, everyone defends their purchase and will usually tell you to buy the same thing they have. So thats what I'll do!

For sure buy the XCS sled. So many advantages to talk about. I would give Greg Bubb a call/email and ask " why should I buy your rig". Then you will know.

Its one of those things I don't have to worry about. I show up on set and the thing always works.

Best of all, and something to really consider, XCS rigs by design eliminate vibration to the camera ! Many "other" rigs can transfer vibration (especially when running) which are clearly visible onscreen.

For sure get the PRO arm with 4 blue and 4 black.

Just my .02

Move the vest up higher on your body!

The hip pads should not go lower than your hip bones. In some cases you may have the vest on and it seems to fit right but after taking the weight of the rig, the vest may ride lower and begin dig in below the hips. This can cause lots of leg pain. Your pinching a nerve.

Try adjusting the vest so it rides high on the hips.

quick raw edit video of a fast method I've seen ops use for converting to low mode...mount 2 monitors!

Yes! The best customer service out there. So quick to answer the phone and answer any of questions with such detail and confidence. Its nice knowing we can always count on Greg!

Quick note before the hall monitors get all worked up...

This is a Fall Restraint System. Technically speaking a work-positioning fall restraint system

Fall Protection has two categories.

Fall restraint systems = prevent you from falling

Fall arrest systems = protect you after you fall by stopping the fall before you hit the surface below

Additionally for fall restraint, safety guidelines only require 1 mounting point ...I have 2

There is no potential to fall as I am limited in how far I can move from the anchor points.

Full body harnesses are designed to arrest the most severe free falls.

Jordan Keslow ;)

Nice work!

 

I second the safety harness into the car.

 

I like the second attachment point with the daisy chain up top. A second daisy to the other hinge would stay it back at two points and take out some side to side wobble. It looks like you are already getting a standard daisy fairly tight, but if you need one that you can pull tight quickly I'd recommend a Yates Adjustable Daisy.

 

A hitch tightener would also be a nice addition to take out any wobble. The U bolt style hitch tighteners are probably the most secure that I've seen.

Thomas,

Thanks for your thoughts.

There is absolutely zero wobble in this mount. The daisy chain isn't necessarily req'd on top just helps to limit the rail when i lean against it.

looks pretty cool, but yeah would want to be super sure about the loading, and probably would want to have an independant safety harness/line from the operator to the car, maybe to the seatbelt mountings?

 

on a related note, I have used those bike racks that clamp into a tow bar ball. i've driven hundreds of miles with a few heavy mountain bikes bouncing around on it, and seemly defying the laws of physics the whole thing has remained solid. what are people's thoughs about using a clamp like that for a mount?

Rupert,

Thanks for the feedback!

Should have made the safety features more clear when I started the thread.

I have a double D-ring body belt attaching myself to 2 isolated interior mounting points. Originally I went full body harness but after trying it out its complete overkill; way too heavy-duty and constantly rattling around. There's no way I would operate this without some sort of fall protection.

Keep in mind worst case scenario should the mount break off...I am sitting on the backend of the car not on the mount. It will break away as I remain seated and attached to the car.

When I strap myself into the belt, I only give about an inch of play from the operating position, considering I'm in somewhat of a fixed position. This allows very little force to be applied to the daisy twist chains should any force be applied.

Jordan Keslow

Alex,

I love low mode because it usually means seeing more foreground and backgrounds with more depth. I hate shooting down on things. I don't like seeing the floor as my background. Of course every shot is different, but generally if people are sitting or doing things on the ground, I'll be in low mode.

"(i.e. trouble with village monitor flipping..)"

Whenever possible I have a second plate on top of the camera so when I do go to low mode I flip the camera over and then the rig. This not only makes it easier for village but its better for post too! Yes it adds 15 seconds but its better overall in my opinion...

Additionally I don't have to flip the image in my transvideo monitor which takes me more time to go through the menus along with reversing the horizon level.

Got home after a long shoot today and this is fresh on my mind...

Like most, after discussing the shot with the director/dp and understanding what they are visualizing I determine whether I want to be in regular or low mode depending on actor placement/foreground composition etc. In the past I would ask..."is it ok if I go low mode" Which I stopped asking after realizing they don't know the limitations of high vs low. They don't know our tools. Bottom line is they want a beautiful shot...so give them what they want right?

Lately I have had situations where I'm specifically told by the director not to go to low mode usually because they think it will take too long, or they think they will be limited in shot design. Even after telling them it will take less than 2 minutes to switch. Usually by the time I've spent convincing them it might be better in low mode is usually how fast I can already be flipped. Once they see it..they love it. I want to start getting sneaky about getting into lowmode..and faster!

I'd love to hear some feedback on modes of operation / experiences on set

Jordan Keslow

P.S. I love LOWmode

Just make sure to check the specs on the hitch itself...I am no towing professional but the towing capacity and tongue ratings are always vastly different on the same hitches. You plus a rig/camera will be 200+ lbs a foot or so away from the received which multiplies the forces exponentially. Just be careful.

Copy.

Thanks for your input.

i personally don't like the connection point between the vertical and horizontal (round to square) axis. The leverage is huge from the weight of the rig not to mention the body leaning force, prone to failure....

Jens,

True there is lots of leverage involved, because of this the decision to go from round to square was made to preventing rolling/spinning which is possible in a (round to round) design. The square design increases strength.

Just make sure to check the specs on the hitch itself...I am no towing professional but the towing capacity and tongue ratings are always vastly different on the same hitches. You plus a rig/camera will be 200+ lbs a foot or so away from the received which multiplies the forces exponentially. Just be careful.

Class III 2 inch hitch...4000lbs limit.

Looks good. Make sure the welding on the speedrail receiver to square section piece is good. There is an awful lot of torque that is being held by welding. Why not consider adding gussets there to strengthen the vertical receiver ?

Yes multiple gussets in place.

Chris,

Yes I also have a booster pad in the back. The additional pad I put in front gave me a total of 3 pads on the vest. I wish I had known about the compact model : / . After first receiving the vest I sent it back to have the waist straps cut down...now the shoulder straps. But I think shortening them will help snug up the vest. I am still eligible for upgrades but Rey at Tiffen told me there super busy as usual and will get back to me soon. If they can't do it in the next week or so I'll just do it myself.

Jerry,

Yes good idea! I will try that after shortening the shoulder straps.

Hey Chris, been meaning to ask you about this. My biggest problem has been not getting the vest to fit tight enough. When I first received it I had to send it back to Tiffen to have the waist straps cut down to allow me to get it snug enough on my hips. After that got settled I started operating but something was still a tad bit off. A few weeks ago i tried something out...I put a booster pad in the front section of the vest to fill in the air gap. Man what a difference! Now it really fits like a glove and allowing me to produce much better lockoffs. Has anyone else tried this?

Ever since using the India mount I have always wanted one...or one like it. With the help of my grip buddy, Chuck May, we created an "updated" modular India mount. The steel fitting is incredibly strong and made for any 2 inch receiver. The mount is drilled to allow the Speed Rail to be placed practically anywhere the operator needs...regular or goofy. The top of the Speed Rail is then braced to the car by daisy chain webbing which prevents any possible rattling. Let me know your thoughts...

Jens,

Took your advice on this a few months ago and have been loving the 6" X-SBL. Great visibility outdoors and good tools/features. The only bad thing so far is that when wearing polarized sunglasses there are times when the monitor goes completely black...obviously a refraction between the glasses and/or monitor coating. It happens very rarely but when it does its typically when operating in unusual positions. The easy fix was simply changing to non-polarized glasses. Just a thought considering this problem was irrelevant when using monitors like the TB-6. But like I said I love the transvideo monitor.

Hi Robert,

Here is a link to a video of Eric Schilling in the backlot of WB shooting on 9/17/2011 at 5:41 AM ! This is in our 16th hour on set and he had several of these shots in the rain with very tight lenses. I remember the dailies looked great! Great professionalism on his part. He was a great inspiration for me to get into steadicam...especially shots like these!

http://youtu.be/00u0yN8jkyE

For those of you who own the Exovest, what was the wait time when you placed the order? Curious to know as I am heavily considering one myself very soon.

Aaron,

I decided I was going to buy an Exovest in late May. After about a week of unreturned emails and phone calls to Tiffen, I finally got in contact with Dan Ikeda who is handling orders. He initially told me there was a 60 day delivery time but it would probably be sooner. I signed and returned the order form. I called Dan last week for any updates and he said it will be here late August/early September. It is slightly frustrating not knowing exactly when it will come, but I know it will be worth the wait :)

Good Luck,

Jordan