Beau Cuizon

Here you can see there should be 4 screws but there are only 2 there...far as I can tell, they are just M4 screws, but I could never find them long enough at Home Depot. Let me know if you have any questions! Beau

Hi All, Selling a Pro 2 SD sled, with an additional HD line down the centerpost + some other goodies. Pro 2 SD Upper Pro 2 SD Lower Pro 2 SD Cable Pro DB 2 (s/n 34) Gen 2 Battery Hanger, Anton Bauer Pro Dovetail, Short -- not pictured (3) Jumpers -- two of them not pictured Low Mode Bracket -- not pictured Pro Gear Gimbal, 1.5" MK-V Gen 2/Berkey Systems "Franken-Jam" monitor yoke. (see below) (2) Jerry Hill Gorelock 2 Rings, 1.5" Post Jerry Hill GAD2 Dock, with Tilt Pelican 1650 (everything fits in one case) I WOULD LIKE TO SELL IT AS A COMPLETE PACKAGE! Some notes about the rig : I modified this Pro 2 SD rig with an HD line down the center post. You can see the pics for reference. Line is Belden 179DT -- very thin, very flexible. It is attached to the center post cable, and follows the coil of that cable so when you extend or retract the post, the HD line follows suit. Rated at 75 ohms, so it carries whatever signal you want to send down. Will tide you over until you do a full, proper HD conversion. The line pops out of a hole I drilled into the upper post, and comes out the slot cut out of the bottom post. The upper post is an original Gen 1 (matte black finish), and the bottom post is a newer Gen 1 (glossy black) With this arrangement, the rig retains all native power connections, SD Line, and modularity. You can remove upper and lower j-boxes. The gimbal can also be removed, but there are a few specific steps that need to be followed, and which I can detail to you if you need to know. The post stages stick a little, but once you break the seal, as it were, it slides smoothly. Gimbal is a Pro Gear gimbal. Yes, that Pro Gear. If you're not familiar with Pro Gear, search the forum a bit. Apparently it's a copy of GPI Pro's gimbal. Is it as good? I would never say yes, but the gimbal works well, from what I can tell. Problem is the company's out of business, so there's no customer support. You're on your own if something goes down. On the other hand, it is field serviceable, and if you know your way around a gimbal, you can clean, and or replace the parts as necessary. With the matte finish on the upper post, you kind of have to crank down on the quick release kipp handle to keep it from sliding, but once locked in, it's seems solid. DB2 side to side screw is slightly bent -- happened when it was packed the wrong way in the Pelican it comes in. DB works fine, everything moves like it should, and is vibration free, but you can feel it a bit when you turn the knob. Should be an easy fix, if you want to send it in to GPI. The monitor yoke is a hodgepodge of pieces. As you can see it's just Berkey 15mm rods and rod ends arranged to mimic the flexibility of popular monitor yokes like the Cam-Jam. It's NOT in any way a replacement for a Cam-Jam, but it works. It allowed me to get the monitor in a place where I liked it, and with little to no vibration. The post clamp is a Gen 2 MK-V for 2" posts, with a 2" to 1.5" step down donut that was 3d printed for the job. There are two screws missing from it (and which I can't find at the hardware store -- see pics), but it doesn't seem to affect the stability of the platform. With those caveats in mind: $9000 obo. Buyer to pay shipping. Drop me a PM or mail me at beau800@Gmail.com if you're interested! Thanks for looking! Pics to follow.

Hi Bruce, I sent you a PM about this gimbal.

It's always amazing to me how cavalier people can be with safety...and then to have people be careless with weapons...on a set...insane! Sounds like that whole 90s'/ 2000's music video era must have been an interesting time to be operating. You know, back when MTV and VH1 actually played music videos...

Interesting story, David...so, let's say the director asks you to "muscle through it", and you do, and your gear gets hammered in the rain, and dies...certainly it would be an insurance claim, but who's insurance would be liable for that? Also, let's say you had to have the gear for a job the next day, but you can't use it cause it got toasted the day before...how do you cover the issue of lost wages? Just curious...never ran into a situation like the before, so I'm just wondering how it would play out....

Hi All, Just a random question...have you ever been on a set, or in a location where you were operating...with or without a rig...and felt that what was being asked of you was dangerous, inappropriate, or irresponsible while on the job? Have you ever said, "No, I'm not doing that"? Just curious to see what your experiences are...especially for those people who are in high pressure situations, situations of great sensitivity, or under a time crunch...working around stunts, and pyro....or live? Also...along those lines, has anyone (who uses a CP/Tiffen vest) ever had to pull the "Oh Crap!™ Strap"? I'm not sure I've ever heard of anyone actually having to do it in a real life situation...I'm sure there's got to be someone out there with a story...

Hi All, Just thought I'd add some info on the subject, as I also purchased a BVB07 after NAB... I'll echo some of the comments from the other guys who've bought one -- I'm pretty happy with it. There's lots to like, including the ability to see the screen in bright daylight. Even without a hood, you can certainly see well enough to frame your shots, and with some of the in-monitor peaking functions, you can even find your focus too. Here's a couple of shots of the monitor on an FS-700...I'm standing on a rooftop, looking out over downtown Honolulu, and the sun is straight up overhead...about 1pm in the afternoon. I know, it's always hard to tell with still pictures how good a monitor is...but hopefully it gives some idea...(you can see some diagonal lines on the close up of the screen...it's not visible to the naked eye...I think it's an artifact from the shutter speed I selected on the still camera I was using...) I was using Max Brightness on the monitor, and it worked well...more on that later. The other thing is that in most lighting situations, you get 180 degrees of viewability, so off axis viewing is excellent, which might be especially attractive for the those who like to table the monitor on their rigs. On the rooftop, in the blazing sun, I would estimate I lost viewabilty at about 150-160 degrees...so still extremely usable in the sun. Of course, if you get the sun in a place on the monitor screen where you're looking at a reflection of the hot ball of fire in the sky, you won't see anything but that...but give yourself a little tilt, and get rid of that reflection, and you can see just fine. As for the functionality, there's plenty of that in the BVB07. Lots of scope functions, like histogram, vector, and waveform (which you can choose to parade, or just monitor by R/G/B),...there's a bunch of marker/frameline options. You can even build your own framelines if you like. There's also on-screen audio monitoring if you need it, on screen time code, and even a volt meter, and built in level. With the exception of the volt meter and level, you can pretty much place your scopes, etc. in the corners, or at the top and bottom of the screen. The menus are okay -- some things are hard to find, or in places I didn't think they would be, or called something unconventional, but navigation is easy thanks to a bunch of tactile buttons, and the little jog knob on the lower right of the monitor face, which allows you not only to scroll through and select settings in the menus, but also gives you the ability to call up quick functions by simply pushing it once (without having the menus activated). Then you can cycle through commonly used functions like backlight, contrast, color, etc, and then adjust them by turning the knob left or right. Very convenient. There's also a picture-in picture function as well, that could serve as a return monitor of some kind. You can use either the second SDI input, as well as the HDMI or composite input as your PIP source. Good news is that you can adjust the opacity of the PIP, as well place it in whatever corner of the screen you want. You can't scale the size of it per se, but there are some positioning options that you can experiment with. You can see the gray box on the second picture...I didn't have anything to put into the PIP but that's what the gray box is... Then there's the built in level -- it works, but I'm not sure how much use it'll be to operators...it's hard to describe...it's a little herky-jerky....that is to say, the indicators just turn on and off...watching the level change isn't smooth, so you can't really judge how quickly or drastically you're falling off center...it's like the sampling rate of the accelerometer is too low, or something...not sure if I'm describing this correctly, but there it is.... Okay so here's some stuff you might take issue with -- you can't adjust the opacity of the on-screen level. Not a problem if you don't use it but just thought you'd like to know. You also can't use any other on screen functions (scopes) if you are using the level. Again, if you don't use it, no problem. Scopes...you can't adjust the size or opacity of the scopes either. While you can create your own frameline, it doesn't appear you can create masks. Also, no vertical flip function! There is a horizontal flip function...like a mirrored mode...why have that and not a vertical flip? I'm not sure.... Max Bright -- it's bright. When you hit that function everything goes to "11"..my only issue is that is skews green when you do it. It's a more color accurate picture if you manually boost backlight/brightness/contrast through the menus...but it's just slightly dimmer...great to have one touch max bright in a pinch, though... Other than that....I have an Gold Mount on the back of the monitor, which now comes centered from the factory...I also have the clear lexan protective cover for the monitor, which can be screwed on...but it's really reflective, so I've decided to go with velcro so I can just peel it off when I need to. So far it's very good on power, even running max bright, my Dionic HC's seem to last a good amount of time. I've only had two other daybright monitors to compare this to..a Boland 8.4 and a Transvideo Cine 3aSB... The Boland 8.4 was bigger, heavier and not as bright. I don't remember the menus and functions being as comprehensive as this BVB07, and it the physical size was slightly too big I thought. Picture was good, but the BVB07 is better. The Transvideo Cine 3aSB...I have a lot of love for that little monitor. I liked the form factor, it was built extremely well, and the pots and soft touch buttons combo was great...but the screen size is superior and resolution of the BVB07 is much better, superior in every way, I think...also, notably brighter than the 1200nits the old Cine3a was rated at...nothing wrong with that Cine3a, but the BVB is a more modern monitor... Also, shout out to Gary Litwin, whose customer service has been mentioned before, but it bears mentioning again...his communication and customer care has been top shelf. Anyways, this got real long, but hopefully it will help someone, someplace...if you all have any questions, feel free to ask! Beau

Bump...

Hi All, Up for sale is a Pro Gear gimbal and grip for 1.5" posts. I've been told that this is basically a copy of GPI's PRO gimbal, in terms of design. As for function, all I can say is that it works. It seems to work well. Pan and tilt feel smooth, there's no felt friction or vibrations, and it doesn't make any noise. It seems to be field serviceable, as you can see in the pics attached. I'm not sure if the PRO gimbal tool works with this one, but you can break down the major components, including the main pan bearing, which you can also access, clean, and/or replace. The yoke fork bearings are accessible by removing the bearing caps, which are just screwed into place. Is it as good as a real PRO? I've never used a PRO gimbal, so I can't compare, but I can't imagine that something that is an off brand copy is ever really as good as the real deal. I certainly wouldn't buy this thinking it would be. That being said, buyer beware -- apparently, there's a long and sordid history with the company that produced these gimbals (Pro Gear). You can search for it on the forum, but the long and short of it seems to be that the company was really, really bad with customer service. And the bottom line is the company is no longer in business. So if you're looking to get it serviced, you're probably on your own. You won't find support from the manufacturer. Looking for $1000, but I'm open to offers! Drop me a line here, or mail me at beau800@gmail.com Thanks for looking! Beau

Hi All, Anyone out there have a spare, or unused Decimator to PRO (1s.303/hermaphrodite 3 pin)cable they would like to get rid of? Let me know if you do, I'm looking to buy one. Thanks!

Hi All, Does anyone have a Pro bayonet mount and ring for a Pro Gen 2 upper? Looking to buy one if you have it laying around. Let me know! Thanks Beau

It sucks that A/B aren't making DIonic HC's anymore...but I feel a lot better knowing that Mr. John Ritter is still re-celling them. I've had a number of HC's/90's re-celled, and they've all worked flawlessly, with one exception...a re-celled 90 failed to charge on occasion...I notified Mr. Ritter, detailed the problem, and he immediately (same day as the email arrived) sent out a replacement Dionic 90 from his own stock, no questions asked. It arrived in the mail shortly thereafter. Of course, it was still within the 12 month warranted period (just a week shy of the one-year anniversary of the re-cell service) but it certainly demonstrated to me that he and his team deserve the kudos and reputation that we see so often here on the forum. Communication, service, troubleshooting, and technical advice has all been excellent. He even helped our station dispose of (40) ProPac 13's/14's, and Trimpacs, while re-celling a couple of Hytron 120/140's...those run full charge/discharge cycles 5 days a week , on in-studio and ENG handheld cameras, no problem. All in all, very happy with Mr. Ritter...and good to know there is still life to be had in legacy AB products.... ...which makes me wonder...why did A/B discontinue HC's? Was it low demand, or...?

Here's a BTS clip -- split screen between the control room and the live broadcast...director called a great show, and the crew was tight...

Just an update for those who may be curious, and for archival/informational purposes -- I was able to speak to Hugo about the possibility of the first gimbal (in my original post) being one of his, and he has confirmed that it is a Steadyrig gimbal. I mentioned that there is no serial number or brand markings on the yoke, and he said that this gimbal could in fact be the very first one he made...I told him that I won it in an eBay auction from a fellow who lives in Seattle, and Hugo was able to confirm that he did sell a gimbal to this person, many years ago...looks like the mystery is solved, thanks to Hugo and Richard James Lewis! As for the gimbal itself...per Hugo, the bearing housing is silver because it is made of titanium and cannot be anodized. The trunion bearings are uncapped, because they are sealed bearings, and do not need to be covered. He said that is highly unlikely that they will become dirty through normal use, and can be cleaned or replaced if they do become worn, dirty or damaged, as they are off the shelf parts. Everything on the gimbal is field serviceable and can be taken down and cleaned by the end user. He did stop making them a few years ago, but there are parts available, so if you have one, it can still be serviced by Hugo. In all, he believes that there are no more than thirty ever made, possibly closer to just twenty. Anyone else out there own one of these Steadyrig gimbals? Just curious... It was an interesting conversation with Hugo...he remembers many details, even down to the model number of the bearings he put into the gimbal.

Hi All, Looking for a Docking bracket to fit a 1.5" post. Let me know if you have an extra one lying around. Thanks!

Hi All, Looking for a DB2 or equivalent, if you have a spare one laying around. Let me know if you do! Thanks! Beau

Thanks for chiming in Richard -- good to know.

So, here's a small update -- took the first gimbal down...inside, it's a Kaydon bearing, and it's busted. The brass bearing separator ring is visibly deformed, and cannot seat itself correctly in the channel...which is also preventing the inner racer from moving freely, and causing the above mentioned sound and friction. Ugh! Oh well. Time to search for a replacement bearing! Also, thanks for your comments...let me know if you have any other ideas as to what make these gimbals could be.

Hi All, I recently got my hands on a couple of "mystery" gimbals, and I'm wondering if any of you guys would be able to identify them by what they look like. They're no brand name labels, or marks or serials on them, but I'll share some pictures, and some details below... This gimbal is for a 1.5" post, has a six-inch gimbal grip with a blue anodized quick release latch. The handle is pretty long, about 7 inches. The outer bearing ring is actually silver, although it looks black in this pic. It's missing some trunion caps, as you can see in the pics, which expose the trunion bearings...i'd like to get some caps for it, but I don't know what brand this is. Don't even know if it supposed to have caps. The yoke action is smooth and fast, as are the trunion bearings. The pan bearing is smooth, but "noisy"...kind of hard to describe...it spins freely, but you can feel friction transmitted through the grip, and it makes the kind of sound a lazy susan might make when you spin it?...might it help to know the make of the gimbal so I can properly clean/lube the bearings? Or maybe it's shot? This gimbal is also for a 1.5" Post -- the grip is 4" long or so, and has a kipping handle on the bottom for a lock. The locking part can be unscrewed from the grip itself. The handle looks like your standard size handle, and is textured with an aggressive knurling. No rubber O-ring. but there is a space for one. The trunion caps are sqared off, and without spanner tool holes. You basically just twist them off. I took the gimbal apart, and on the pan bearing, there are some manufacturing marks as follows : JAPAN/KOYO/6809Z...I'm assuming this is the make and model of said bearing...perhaps a good clue to what make and manufacturer this gimbal may be? This seems to be the better of the two, as all movement is silky smooth and silent. ...and that's all I got! Any help or advice is much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to look through. Let me know if you have any questions or comments! Beau

Apparently, there was a death on set, earlier in December, where a man was crushed under a Humvee. http://sbeta.iol.co.za/news/south-africa/western-cape/cape-man-dies-on-hollywood-movie-set-1961611 Coincidence, or perhaps just an unsafe set?

Hi Nir, Thanks for your reply. It sounds like you put a lot of thought into your development and production of your products...I'm just curious though...what was it about the old rigs you were using that prompted you to say, "This isn't what I want out of a system", or "I think I can design this to work better"...? I ask because, through this forum, I have been learning that the history of Steadicam, especially the early history, is built upon people who were almost always making modifications to the first generation designs, constantly experimenting and refining..and those refinements and additions have made their way into the big rigs (and the small ones too) over the years... so one could say that a modern, off the shelf system is fairly refined already, and covers the majority of the needs of the contemporary Steadicam operator...? With that being said, although I don't know how people will receive your designs or products, its seems that a spirit of invention and refinement has driven the technical end of Steadicam, so maybe you're ahead of the curve, so to speak...in any case, thanks for your reply, and good luck at NAB! Beau

Hi Nir, I had the chance to take a look at your web page, and saw that you listed the price of the arm at $10,000...I'm assuming it's USD? That seems to be a lot of money for an "unproven" concept...in that it's not very common, and most people don't have any experience with your system. There are many proven, much, much cheaper options out there. For example, used 3a/EFP/Master Series arms that are proven and reliable. They may have limitations, but those limitations are known, and well documented. Those limitations aren't preventing anyone from performing or creating good/great work. Certainly you could argue that it is those limitations that a product like yours addresses...but with these legacy systems already doing jobs so well, it might be difficult to justify your ($10,000) price point, especially if there is anything less than a substantial increase in performance/ability? At that price point, one could buy a Tiffen G50x, or for a little more, a PRO Atlas, both proven systems, both backed by reputation, service, parts, etc. both compatible with each others sleds/vests etc. I also saw that you sell entire systems (sled/vest/arm) for $25,000...I have a similar question there as well...good used legacy systems may run half of that. There's a '99 Master System (sled,Master arm, Ultra 2 vest/HD/SD monitor) listed on the FB Buy/Sell/Rent page going for $11,500. That's a well engineered, well built, proven, reliable system that we know can still perform today. Or a Ultra 1 System, complete for $18,000. Or a modernized EFP system, complete, for $14,000. Can you really promise that NBStabilzers systems are worth that much more, in terms of price/performance? I don't mean to sound so skeptical or negative. I wouldn't consider myself an "expert" by any means...and I know it takes courage and guts to put yourself and your products out there, so kudos to you. I'm just asking questions that a prospective buyer might ask....

Found this on reddit...it's apparently an image of a note that was type written to Stanley Kubrick from Jan Harlan (Kubrick's producing partner), describing his first impressions of what he called "Ed Di Guilio's Camera Bracket." Interesting stuff.... http://i.imgur.com/yUgPHyN.jpg

Here's an article from last year that has a video embedded in it that shows some shots off the "Impossible Shots" demo that he created to show off what the Steadicam prototype could do. Not sure if this has been posted before but I didn't find it on my initial search of the forum, so, for anyone interested in a little history, here it is! http://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/steadicam-inventor-reveals-impossible-shots-725346

It's been a while since anyone has added any stories to the thread...anyone out there want to share?