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Lisa Sene

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Lisa Sene last won the day on September 9

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About Lisa Sene

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  • Rig
    Steadicam Archer
  • Location
    New York, NY

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  • Website
    http://www.lisasene.com

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  1. Hi Nick, Thank you! Diversified perspectives are what makes this community strong. Great that you've taken a workshop and already have an arm and vest you're happy with. You'll have plenty of good options for a used sled for $15K - keep an eye on the forum and Facebook groups, and try to check out the sled in person before you buy it, especially if it's a brand or model you haven't used before. Good luck! Lisa
  2. Hi Nick, I'm not a "fella" (your language matters - please consider your audience), though I suggest finding a solid used system from a reputable seller within your price range. Also consider accessories: batteries, cables, a stand and/or cart, cases/bags and some way to organize everything in them; those expenses quickly add up. Have you taken a workshop? That's a great way to get your hands on different rigs (the SOA workshop in particular has a wide variety of gear lately), and network with other operators who may be selling rigs. Personally, I was glad I invested in a workshop before a rig, because it allowed me to try several types of vests, and ultimately my first sled. The connections I made there have been invaluable, and have helped me in some way on every job I've had since. Lisa
  3. Hi William, Welcome! When you say operator, do you mean camera operator, or Steadicam operator only? You'd be selling yourself short to only focus on Steadicam if you want to be a camera operator; Steadicam is a phenomenal instrument, and incredibly useful - when it's the right tool for the job. Some shots are better achieved (or more safely achieved) another way. It's part of your job as an operator to decide how to get the shot. To answer your question - I think it depends on your market, and what types of jobs you're seeking, both as a DP and as an operator. I've seen people successfully do both in smaller markets, though I do think it's more difficult to do both in a larger sphere on larger jobs. In the union world, DP and operator are two separate jobs, and once you change your card you can't do the other job on a union show (with some exceptions). It seems there's more fluidity between operating and DPing from a hiring standpoint, so you may not encounter the same marketing struggle people face when moving from ACing to operating. Good luck! Lisa
  4. Hi Sam, I haven't used any type of rig with a Movi or Ronin on a job, only in demos or at trade shows. Out of the Steadimate, EasyRig, and Anti-Gravity rig, I liked the Steadimate the most. Paired with an Exovest that's tuned to rotate a little more than normal at the pivot points, it was the best at eliminating footsteps. It was also the most comfortable for me, probably because I'm already used to the Exovest and personally find that's the most comfortable and logical style of vest for my body. It was slightly more tiring than normal Steadicam since you have to hold the Movi or Ronin farther away from your body than you would a Steadicam sled, simply because it's a larger footprint. I have yet to try the smaller EasyRig (the stock ones are too long for my torso), but always found it was difficult to get rid of footsteps. It was a bit better with the Flowcine Serene arm. Similarly, I was able to see footsteps when I tried the AntiGravity rig, and found it too large and cumbersome overall. However, the boom range on that rig was nice. I was also concerned about maneuvering about practical sets with low ceilings or door frames with that type of rig - not to mention the distraction factor for actors! What have you found so far using the Steadimate? Lisa
  5. Hi Kevin, Height differences are always challenging. Think about what lens you're on, and figure out the distance you need to be from both actors/actresses to maintain your desired composition. Also think about being able to hold them if you're going around corners, and whether or not losing sight of them for a few moments is okay or not - a good conversation to have with DP and/or director. A tight two shot typically isn't very aesthetically pleasing if one head is at the bottom of frame and one is at the top, or your whole frame is dutched to get both, but as with everything else, it depends on the story you're trying to tell. Maybe low mode is a better choice because you see more of the upper wall behind them and notice a picture on the wall that's important to the story that you'd miss in high mode. Experiment and see what feels right to you for what you're trying to convey in the shot. Happy flying! Lisa
  6. Glad it's a simple fix!
  7. Hi Alfeo, I have had a Scout 37 NXT (don't think they make it anymore) for a little over 2 years, and just got a Voyager EVO Scout 37 as a replacement, both with the Steadicam kit. Nothing wrong with the NXT per se, but the Voyager serves my needs better, especially for day-playing when I'm breaking it down/setting it up to get it in and out of my car twice a day. The Voyager is now living on a camera truck on a show as of yesterday, so I haven't fully put it to the test yet. So far the only thing I noticed that disappointed me was that you have to remove the Steadicam mast because one connection point it to the top shelf as there is only one crossbar on each side. The NXT had two on the mast side, and I ended up getting a second one for the other side and switching the side I kept the mast on so I could keep the mast on the cart while it was folded to save time. Not terribly long to take off of the Voyager, but would be nice to not have to do that. Also worth noting, I don't use the sled cushion because the spacing isn't right with my sled and docking bracket, and I don't use the vest hanger because I don't like things other than my body sitting against my Exovest memory foam for long periods of time. Here were my reasons for changing: - Adjustable top shelf height. Became a definite need for travel jobs that had a lot of huge cases - way easier to fit them when the top shelf moves. - No need for a soft bag to add handles to the cart (necessary for lifting in and out of my trunk) - they are built into the cart on the Voyager. Might get one eventually to protect it more if I ever fly with it (which I did twice with the NXT). Also no more putting a soft bag down ( necessary to fully attach the bag onto the cart when doing it alone) on wet/muddy ground or gross streets - yuck. - Tapped holes on the sides of the top shelf for accessories - not sure I see myself using them, but the ACs thought that was a great addition. - Latches to close the cart when folded are on the short sides and don't stick out and get bent when going around tight doorways - a constant struggle with my NXT going in and out of tight doorways and hallways. - Mechanism to drop the sidebars is better on the Voyager - the NXT had buttons that had to fully depress at the same time to collapse and would get stuck often or pinch fingers/break nails. I eventually started using tools, but then depressed them so far they fell into the sidebars. Relatively easy to pop back out, though not something I wanted to deal with packing to leave in the morning or the end of a long day. - The wheels attach via dovetail, which seemed better though so far they are somewhat hard to get on and off - though, it's new, and was also very humid the few times I've done that, so that may be why. - Better wheels locks. Easier to tell if they're locked or unlocked, and therefore less likely to strip over time. - Slightly deeper shelves (I think?) on both the top and bottom. Also: - I have a large Cinebag for accessories, and I attach it to the non-sled side of the cart with two safety chains and some carabiners. Gets you additional cart space, and is a nice counterweight when balancing a heavier sled. - Both do scratch fairly easily. Happy flying!
  8. Hi Isaac, Have you contacted Tiffen? They should be able to best advise how to fix it, and check for other potential issues (let them know how it cracked, a drop or too much weight). I would fix it before flying with it personally - it's going to be a weak point, and the weight of the rig could make it crack further and possibly hurt you. Safe flying!
  9. Hi cyjackx, Please adhere to the rules and use your real name on this forum. You may benefit from a Bronze Workshop, as they will have a few different Tiffen rigs there, and give you the basics of building, balancing, and flying if you have not used a Steadicam before. If you're doing it correctly, you won't be "sacrificing your knees". Which sled, arm, and vest to buy is a decision that is based on many factors: total payload, price range, power needs, accessories, transportability, if you ever plan to upgrade, etc. Lisa
  10. Hi Justin, It depends on your interest level and finances. Bronze is a great way to dip your feet in (especially if you've never had a rig on before) and make sure it's for you before making a larger financial investment in the SOA workshop. You'll have some time in the rig, and learn building and balancing. It's a fantastic foundation upon which to build, either via your own practice, or by taking a larger workshop down the road. If you have your heart set on Steadicam, skip the Bronze and go for the SOA workshop. It doesn't matter if you've never had a rig on before; students of all experience levels are welcome to attend, as there is always room to improve and more to learn. Feel free to PM me with more questions! Lisa
  11. Hi Eric, If you can, go to NAB or Cinegear and check out monitors in person. Cinegear is outside, so you'll have a better chance of seeing how they perform in daylight. Also possible at a rental house - ask them nicely (and maybe bring cookies) if you can check out a few different monitors one day in their parking lot. Personally, I settled on the smallHD 703. It can be blindly reflective when angled directly at the sun, but has otherwise been wonderful for day exterior work. I'm still exploring solutions to solve the reflectivity (custom cut anti-reflective glass being one). Happy flying! Lisa
  12. Hi Sean, As Tom said, it sounds like a workshop would benefit you. Here are a few more options in addition to the one Tom linked: Tiffen Workshops SOA Workshop Another great resource is The Steadicam Operator's Handbook. Though it's a great guide, it can't replace someone with experience making sure your vest is fitting correctly, you're walking correctly, holding the rig correctly, etc. - all of which could be contributing to your footsteps translating to your frame. Happy flying! Lisa
  13. Thanks for the wise words, Janice! The percentages are great to have as a baseline to keep in mind when budgeting. Lisa
  14. Fingers crossed it's an easy fix! Lisa
  15. Hey Pete, You've probably tried this - have you tested with the ride knob adjusted differently? Does the movement change at all? Hard to see where it was set from the angle in the video, though if it's a heavier load, you'll likely need more visible threads (i.e. more iso). Is it doing it only on the top section of the arm, or the bottom as well? Lisa
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