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Rick Woollard

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Posts posted by Rick Woollard

  1. For Sale

     

    Preston MDR-1 with UHF receiver module (+1 Spare UHF module) (24v only)

    2 x UHF Transmitters with HU1/2 brackets and cables

    3 x Batteries

    1 x Preston 12v to 24v booster unit plus power cables from GPI Pro rig and 4pin 12v xlr

    2 x Preston fast chargers (faulty)

    1 x cable to charge batteries from Pag charger

    4 x transmitter aerials

    4 x aerial BNC to MDR command right angle adapters

    Various fuses and connectors

     

     

    This was my main wireless focus system for many years, but since upgrading has been sitting in a cardboard box for 6 years. I bought it from Gerry Vasbender who had used it on The Lord of the Rings Trilogy.

     

    The chargers stopped working so I made up a cable to charge the batteries direct from the one of the front sockets on a PAG charger. That involves undoing the 4 screws on the transmitter housing and plugging the battery in directly with the small 4 pin connectors. I have 2 transmitters so always had a fully charged transmitter to hand when the battery needed changing, (just a matter of unscrewing the whole transmitter off of the HU and undoing the command cable and swop out, a 30 second job)

    I’m sure the chargers could be repaired in house at PCS, or if you were electronically minded the transmitters could be converted to power from an alternative source, as I am sure I have seen done elsewhere on the forum.

     

    The MDR-1 UHF only runs on 24V power, so if used with a 12v system, you have to attach the 12v to 24v booster system between the battery/rig and the MDR. Dual lock is already in place for this as in the photograph.

     

    I am selling these items, as seen, as I haven’t used it in so long. It has it’s own idiosyncrasies and charm but nothing ever interfered with the transmission.

     

    All you need for a functioning system are motors, cables and an HU1/2, though you may need to check that that is backwards compatible.

     

    Priced to sell at £625UK plus shipping and paypal charges if used. Located in London UK

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  2. I'm with Libor, barefoot has always given me better balance on sand and you can walk anywhere. Use gyros, run them up to speed and unplug them just before you go which cuts the whine to manageable sound levels. They'll still spin enough to work. Obviously plug them back in as soon as you cut camera to run back up going back to number ones. If the wind is blowing directly into camera, ask the grips to join 2 windkillers into a V shape and stand in the open end, it mysteriously creates a pocket of stiller air to work in!

  3. I would just like to add that many film cameras are not designed to run upside down, if done so there is a chance of the film scratching. In these days of mainly digital cameras going to low mode is just a case if spinning the rig over and dropping the gimbal a bit. With film cameras it is wise to get a dedicated top mounted low mode bracket and remount the camera and then rebalance. My assistant and I could get this down to 3-4 minutes with an Arricam LT! Having said that the 416 can run upside down if treated gently!

  4. Hi Jan,

     

    I used this on a 4 day Jaguar car commercial in the UK, our video playback guy had a set.

     

    Working in and around the Jaguar car plant, including their hot and cold rooms it transmitted through several walls back to video village never dropping out once.

     

    I don't think it can be faulted for a consistent transmission however the delay is quite noticeable once it has left the camera gone through the Q-Take and back to the monitors. The director was complaining about the lag as he was listening to Nicolas Hoult 4-5 frames earlier than the image. I think this system is ideal for any MOS, car to car or any situations where sound isn't an issue.

     

    The Ikan WK1 and new Teradek Beam have the same specs so I suspect they all share the same guts. However the Nimbus and Ikan are way cheaper!

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