Andrey Yazydzhi

Have a good season!

With warmest regards,

Andrey

Chris, I use 9" monitor on my steadicam. It's useful for me!

Michael

I used backview monitor some years ago but realy it was not very effective.

29 variable takes, with 3-5 rehearses each for 4-min episode. Feature film " Stalin's Wife". Camera ARRI16SR3.

I have an interest in Advanced Digital Level DL-ADV (Marell) to use with my steadicam. Can anybody say about it? I need an advise.

todays test

-9-12C hum 81-78%

10 hours

About 10 years ago I worked with my steadicam at -17- -20C at Red Serpent in Moscow...

Nice to see!!!

Happy birthday Louis. Wish you all the best.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY LARRY from Russa!!! You are realy N 1 !!!

Hi Chris,

 

I remember when I owned a G-50, I seem to recall that the arms max weight range was 22.5kg. Have Tiffen made new springs for the 50 or I'm I mistaken about my own memory?

 

LE

My new G-50 have min 5,7 kg- to max 25,6 kg .

Hey Guys,

 

This Saturday The Steadicam Guild is sponsoring a camera and grip gathering over at The Casting Office Bar and Grill. The event starts at 7:00p.m. If you are free please stop by for some good times. There is free underground parking available. The CO is located across the street from Universal Studios next door to Vivid.

 

Saturday September 19, 2009

 

The Casting Office Bar and Grill

3575 Cahuenga Blvd W

Universal City, CA 91608

323.851.4300

 

www.castingofficebarandgrill.com

 

 

Hope to see you there!

 

Jessica Lopez

Steadicam Guild Event Coordinator

It"s fine! But I am in Moscow (Russa).

:rolleyes:

hi

would it be better to find and purchase an old master series or get a new movcam pro max?

would do u think as i am a new operator and havent much experience

Robert

old master series have iso-elastic arm , but movcam not.

Here are some pictures.

 

First, the Garfield mount (underside) and tie-down. Diameter 7"

Second, the MSE hi-hat with what appears to be a typcial Mitchell plate (diameter 6 1/2")

Third, the mount sitting centered on top of the plate (tiedown omitted for clarity)

Fourth, the mount slid off to the side to illustrate how the retaining screw can slip out of the keyway

 

Note the raised center portion of the Garfield (with the four holes.) Diameter: about 2 7/8"). This mates to the recessed circular "shelf" in the Mitchell mount, which is 4 1/8" in diameter. Even if the mount is absolutely centered and the tiedown is cranked down tight, the retaining screw is right at the very outside of the keyway, due to the Garfield's larger diameter. If the mount were to slip off-center even the slightest (due to the 1 1/4 inch difference in the diameters of the parts that mate together). the retaining pin could slip out of the keyway entirely.

 

If this is the way these pieces are designed to work, I'm kind of surprised. Why wouldn't the raised center of the underside of the mount be machined to the diameter of the recess in the Mitchell base (4 2/8")? Why wouldn't the retaining screw holes be drilled closer to the center of the mount so that there was less chance of the pin disengaging the keyway if the mount slipped off-center?

 

Thanks in advance for help and clarification.

The best way for You will be to make a new small center disk ( that is with 4 hoies ) - 4 2/8" instead 4 1/8".

Here are some pictures.

 

First, the Garfield mount (underside) and tie-down. Diameter 7"

Second, the MSE hi-hat with what appears to be a typcial Mitchell plate (diameter 6 1/2")

Third, the mount sitting centered on top of the plate (tiedown omitted for clarity)

Fourth, the mount slid off to the side to illustrate how the retaining screw can slip out of the keyway

 

Note the raised center portion of the Garfield (with the four holes.) Diameter: about 2 7/8"). This mates to the recessed circular "shelf" in the Mitchell mount, which is 4 1/8" in diameter. Even if the mount is absolutely centered and the tiedown is cranked down tight, the retaining screw is right at the very outside of the keyway, due to the Garfield's larger diameter. If the mount were to slip off-center even the slightest (due to the 1 1/4 inch difference in the diameters of the parts that mate together). the retaining pin could slip out of the keyway entirely.

 

If this is the way these pieces are designed to work, I'm kind of surprised. Why wouldn't the raised center of the underside of the mount be machined to the diameter of the recess in the Mitchell base (4 2/8")? Why wouldn't the retaining screw holes be drilled closer to the center of the mount so that there was less chance of the pin disengaging the keyway if the mount slipped off-center?

 

Thanks in advance for help and clarification.

Here are some pictures.

 

First, the Garfield mount (underside) and tie-down. Diameter 7"

Second, the MSE hi-hat with what appears to be a typcial Mitchell plate (diameter 6 1/2")

Third, the mount sitting centered on top of the plate (tiedown omitted for clarity)

Fourth, the mount slid off to the side to illustrate how the retaining screw can slip out of the keyway

 

Note the raised center portion of the Garfield (with the four holes.) Diameter: about 2 7/8"). This mates to the recessed circular "shelf" in the Mitchell mount, which is 4 1/8" in diameter. Even if the mount is absolutely centered and the tiedown is cranked down tight, the retaining screw is right at the very outside of the keyway, due to the Garfield's larger diameter. If the mount were to slip off-center even the slightest (due to the 1 1/4 inch difference in the diameters of the parts that mate together). the retaining pin could slip out of the keyway entirely.

 

If this is the way these pieces are designed to work, I'm kind of surprised. Why wouldn't the raised center of the underside of the mount be machined to the diameter of the recess in the Mitchell base (4 2/8")? Why wouldn't the retaining screw holes be drilled closer to the center of the mount so that there was less chance of the pin disengaging the keyway if the mount slipped off-center?

 

Thanks in advance for help and clarification.

Mark I use some old parts for my hard mount :

I'm stumped. Bought a used Jerry Hill Garfield mount, and a Matthews 815510 mitchel base hi-hat (from separate sources). Much to my surprise, they don't seem to fit together right. Long story short, the mount slides around the 3" center hole of the Mitchell plate and the screw that is supposed to fit in the keyway slips out. I would have thought there would be a snug and secure fit...

 

I'm mainly from the video world; my experience is mostly with ball heads. I never expected to see incompatibility between a major brand Mitchell hi-hat and a Hill mount. Am I missing something here? If my description is not clear please ask and I'll expand on it and try to post a picture or two.

 

Thanks!

Mark

Try to post pictures to demonstrate Your problem

Hi Everyone

I would have to agree with everyone I have been there as well .

 

"Why do we do these things, why don't we say no? I think possibly the kind of of people who take up steadicam operating have a "can do" attitude and enjoy a challenge."

 

I have no problem with the challenge but I am sorry to say some producers are taking advantage of our kindness regardless of the budget.

."I am saying NO more now then ever before. Yes there will be op's how will do the job but at the end of the day they are screwing us all .

 

Here is a link we all should considering

http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=80934607510&ref=mf

Just my 2 cents worth .

Louis

Without zoom but with 1000 feet mag and 2-feet door in "don juan".

My 2 cents.

I emailed Paul Dudeck from Anton Bauer.

Here is his reply:

 

 

Hi Adam,

 

Always keep your batteries on a charger unless you are going to go thru

long periods, like more than 3-4 months without using them.

 

Regards,

Paul

 

Paul Dudeck

Director, Product Specialist Group

The Americas

Hitron 50's are Ni-MH !

Sounds defective, you should sell it to me for half off. ;)

Ben

Iso-Elastic means the smalest force difference between the down and up positions

Zero-graviti means zero difference (comfortable but do not absorb shaking)

The oldest arms had about 16 kilos difference

Best,

So hard to give you good advice here.

 

How old are you? How much does it hurt? Is it a pulled muscle that will heal up either way or something serious that could be perminant? How bad do you need the job? How big is your rig, the camera, will you be on the beach???????????????

 

Everybody here has worked under some type of pain or illness. We have all thought, "I can't possibly turn down a job" but the truth is (unless your about to loose your house) one job generally doesn't mean much in the grand scheme of things.

 

Soak in your hot tub (or bath tub). Use an inversion table, get a massage and or accupuncture. Stretch, take some advil, cowboy up and do the job. Or, call and say you cant.

 

I would not try and tell the producer your injured but want to do the job anyway. Either do it and stay quiet or let them know your injured and can't make the shoot.

 

my 2 cents...

 

I am 27 and this is my second job on steadicam. Shooting with a RED and the whole rig comes in at about 35-40 lbs maybe more. The injury is not permanent and the last time i got it was about 9 months ago. Just a pain that happens about once a year for a few days. No beach. Just a straight up walk and talk.

 

I think I am going to take it easy and take some pills and do the job. It is a really good opportunity for me at this point in my career. It is a small independent feature where I can make some decent connections for living in the middle of the country. I can rest after the shoot I suppose.

Be careful !

Probably been posted before, but an interesting read...

 

http://www.americanheritage.com/articles/w...ies-video.shtml

 

Nice article, except the idiot who wrote it got the name of the company who developed it wrong. It was Cinema Products, not General Cinema.

 

Jim "details, details" Bartell

They prepared a lot of information and asked me about shooting in fire and so on . But finaly they cat it and done some mistakes as You see .

Best....

Brian - I bet the 2 non-solid 4x4s set in a V-formation will work great, if we can coordinate everyone. This is going to take some rehearsal. I once used a single solid 4x4, and just like you said, there was some erratic swirling wind wrapping around the board. Still - it was significantly better than no 4x4.

 

Andrey - I've only seen antlers in pictures. They remind me of a miniature version of the bar that a tightrope walker uses to help with his balance. Is it the same principle? Do you ever hit yourself in the head with the antlers when panning? It looks possible from the photos I've seen. Where can I buy them?

Andy , about Antlers try to ask Brant S. Fagan by firebrand@fmis.net .

oh shoot, shoulda mentioned that for wind you can also get a grip or two with 4x4s standing between you and the wind. I've been told that the best configuration is to have two 4x4 doubles (not solids) forming a V that points toward the wind. Doubles instead of solids because my letting the wind through a bit you avoid it rolling over the solids and swirling back in on the other side. And the V I believe helps break it nicely to the sides as opposed to it hitting a flat surface. Obviously it depends on what direction you are shooting compared to the direction the wind is coming from, but see what you can do with what you have! Got that tip from the same source as the chicken wire, thank you Mr. Abraham!

 

Good luck, happy flying |-)~

 

Brian |-)~

Andy , try to use Antlers !

bourbon

Two month at any seashore , some wine .......(after two weeks You'll want to work !) .

Best

Shouldn't have a problem. Try to get the steadicam mags though, otherwise you'll be fighting the weight shift. The viewfinder is attached to the door and protrudes out on the camera more than your use to, allow a bit more room on your outside clearances (no issue if your goofy).

 

Low mode can be tricky if you don't have the steadi mags. I couldn't get to work with the brackets the house had because we didn't have steadi mags.

It's IMPORTANT : for ARRI35III max power voltage is 14,0 Volts ! No more !