Jump to content

Neil Hodgkinson

Premium Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Neil Hodgkinson

Profile Information

  • Rig
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

398 profile views
  1. Tiffen Aero-30 system, including two v-lock batteries, charging station, balancing bracket, monitor, weights, Aero-30 arm. Vest is upgraded from the Zephyr to the Fawcett ExoVest with bag & booster pad I am based in London, U.K. and will sell only within the UK. It all fits in a Peli-case (Storm 2950) which is include. This rig has barely been used, as new. £4500
  2. Oh, I didnt know that. $50 to access the Market Place is it. Thanks for pointing it out.
  3. I cant seem to post to the Market Place, I hit Create then Topic but the Market Place is grayed out, is it closed for some reason?
  4. Thanks for the help Victor. I'm just practising with weights at the mo and a friend told me I'd gone over the top, I had about 8Kgs on the top. So I took it down to about 5Kgs and spent some time fiddling with the knobs on the socket block as you said and now it's a bit better. I still feel like it's in a bit of a rush to escape, it's not pulling like before but I wouldn't take my hands if it and expect it to stay there. I tried positioning it with my hips as you suggested and this helped, maybe I just need to control it better. This one I've been practising with is an old Floatcam but I've an old Steadicam Flyer too and I'll give that one a go tomorrow. I've just finished doing them both up. The Steadicam took quite a lot of work needing a completely new bottom bracket, battery mount, monitor mount ect and I'm excited to give it a try, hopefully by comparing the two any obvious problems will be quickly apparent, though they both mount on different sides of their respective vests, that may be a bit of a mind game going back and forth.
  5. I have an old steadicam that I’ve been practicing with for a while and have a question. I adjust the arm so it floats the camera to my side and slightly in front of me, or where ever, and though it works just fine the neutral space where it does not start pulling off to my right of left seems quite small, less than a square foot, and once outside of that space the pull is strong and requires a firm grip to control. In many of the videos I’ve been watching the operators seem to be able to move the camera across their body and even slightly in front of them while still having a light touch on the arm. There’s that awful video of the guy breaking the arm with an Alexa on board but with my arm as soon as I let go, once it’s wandered about 8 inches in any direction in goes, and it goes fast and hard not like the way it just drifts away from the chap in the video. I feel like the guys in the instructional videos have a much larger area of neutral space in front and to their side that they can use, there are only two adjustments to position the camera relative to the body as far as I can tell so I thought I’d come and ask here. Maybe the operators I’m watching are just very good at it and have strong fingers so it looks like the arms not pulling, though the guy in the dropped camera video doesn’t look like he’s particularly in control. Either way, more adjustments or just keep practising, it’d be good to know.
  6. Thanks but I wouldn't put you out just yet, I think I've got the idea. I found pictures of another one on eBay with the same wiring job on it you've done but I've redone the bottom bracket also and it wouldn't be so easy to replace the wire down the line. Because of this I'd like to wire it into the top plate socket if possible.
  7. Thanks Ryan. It's one of those skinny one's I've ordered so it should be easy to thread through. I think I'm going to re wire the BNC but maybe I can still get away with it, I'll have another look. Good to hear that it possible without dissembling the whole thing.
  8. Hey. I’m, trying to get the top plate of an old Flyer so I can wire a new 3G SDI cable in there. I’ve removed this little bar that braced the top of the post (marked in red) and now the whole thing seems to be loose, held on only by this threaded bar (marked in green hatching) and red knob that controls the side to side movement. The only way I can see to continue is to remove these tiny little pins (marked in green, second picture). I don't like the idea of dismantling such a small component. I could just try and thread it through without taking apart, not sure. I thought I’d come here and ask first to see if anyone has taken this top plate off to replace the cabling before. I’ve not found this old Steadicam to be very well made and I’m scared of braking it if I do something wrong. I cant work out how to attach pictures, it just keeps saying I cant attach something with that extension but I'm guessing if you've done this job you'll know what I'm talking about.
  9. Here’s an answer to my own question for anyone who comes here down the line. If you looking at an old Flyer check the bottom assembly. The whole thing is adjustable through a series of pinch joints tightened with alan key socket bolts. The assembly in turn is attached to the bottom of the pole by the same means. On this one they are loose and will not tighten properly. The bolts are pretty mangled from over torqing and this would have been the way to spot the problem strait away on inspection. This is caused I think by the fact that it is fabricated with very tight tolerances and the wear of the metal over time where the parts are adjusted, inevitably without loosening them fully first, has loosened up the joints so they can no longer tighten soundly. I could fix the monitor arm by lengthening the cut to allow the joint to tighten once again but the battery arm is a different matter as it shares it’s joint with the attachment to the bottom of the post, so this can’t be altered without courting disaster. This is bad design and I’ve found a few other people who have had to deal with it. It’s a shame to throw the bottom assembly away, if anyone has come across this and found a solution I’d love to hear about it.
  10. Hi, I just picked up a Flyer. The PAG batteries plate wiring is hanging out and the video cable looks knackered. The fitting at the bottom has some joints that don’t seem to tighten up too well ether. None of this worries me too much. I’ll be changing it over to V-Mount as this is what I run on and I’m thinking I might just get a whole new base cut out. That and a little wiring and it’ll be up to speed. At a glance it all seems to work fine but the seller’s behaviour was a bit odd and what with me being a new Steadicam owner, this is my first, I thought I'd look for some advice. The arm, the gimbal and the stage for example, I really don’t know enough about to know if it’s all exactly as it should be. I’ve downloaded the manual and will go over it to check it out but dose anyone have any experience of anything failing through age or misuse that I should look out for with an older rig like this?
  • Create New...