Cedric Autier

Sold. thank you

There is no problem in doing it. but your Volt will be drawing power from one of the 2 batteries used for 24V. So the two batteries will not discharge at the same rate. if you have a gen II or gen III battery rack, it would be better to use a C/M/A jumper block with the Volt plugged on a monitor port. That way the Volt is isolated from the 24V circuit.

Selling my Steadicam Exovest. Purchased in 2018, it has served me well since. Some signs of use, but overall in great condition. The lower screw that hold the socket block is scratched, and the lower ends of the tubes are a bit scratched to (see pictures) Currently setup for a goofy operator, but can swap it to regular before shipping. Sold with Steadicam backpack, and 3D printed bracket to put it on the docking bracket (fits 5/8" spuds) and avoid putting it down on the floor (thus avoiding the previously mentionned scratch from happening). Please note that this is a private sale, I can provide with a transfer certificate but no commercial invoice. Located in France, buyer pays for shipping and is responsible for eventual import taxes. Asking 4000$ or 3700€

Hi Kevin, I had to do that on a project where whip tilts were used as transition between shots (way easier than having to start and stop properly). Obviously not a problem to go out of a shot as you don't have to land a frame, but another story to go back to a shot. I think you should extend the batteries and monitor a bit more than usual as this will allow for more pan inertia but will not change you tilt inertia that much. After practicing for 2 days I have found that to land the frame I did the same thing than for a whip pan. First, stop the rig with a really strong grip, and just before it totally stops relieve the pressure to go to your usual grip. Also it really help to set your tilt trim to your end frame. As for drop time, I chose to use my usual one, but depending on the lenght of the shot more neutral could help.

Hello John, Have you tried to press the internal FLIP button inside the Volt? If your Volt is mounted on the right it should have been pressed during installation but worth a try. Procedure is on page 37 of the Volt manual.

It is 2 inches. Mentionned at the beginning of this video.

Hello Andrew, There is nothing special to unscrew it, but it could be locked with some loctite or something similar. I was able to unscrew mine by warming it with a hair dryer, than pressing the upper cap on a non-slip table surface, and twisting the gimbal grip. It is actually the lower part with the grip that will unscrew from the bearing assembly.

I am absolutely no expert but i have had experiences with both these arm (carbon version for the artemis). If the upgrade for the G50 is not to expensive (better check that in advance) i would definitely go with a G50(x). The main reason would be to have the Ride adjustment (and indeed the toolless). But if I remember well last time I checked the upgrade was so expensive it was almost the same as buying a brand new G50x. If memory serve the Artemis is designed like a Master or 3A arm, meaning that for it to be more isoelastic it needs to be near its maximum weight range. With a pretty light package (what I had when i used it) it is really 'springy' and you need to work harder to maintain boom. Plus the one I had was making pretty loud noises because of the cable design. Another thing to consider is how easy it would be to have the arm serviced. Should be pretty easy for Steadicam, but I don't know if Arri as any service for camera stabilizer in north america. Could be a pain to have to send it to Germany for service.

Thank you Jerry and Robin! If it can almost handle Imax it should be just fine with a 35mm steadimag. Thanks!

Hello Everyone, I am wondering what are your experiences with the Volt with a rig going off balance, typically using lenses with a big glass displacement, film inside the mags etc... In the case of film, do you do a quick rebalance between each take even on short takes? And would this be a big concern on long takes? Thank you

Hello Everyone, I have a slight "clicking" on my upgraded G70, so I am looking to replace the Lift screws. I ordered two from my local reseller and I am not sure I got the good ones. The one I received are labelled G70 (not G70x) and does not have the green coating that the old ones had. I tried to change it on one section, but the result is even more "clicking". Does anybody knows if it is normal that I received screws without the green coating? My local reseller tells me that they are not coated anymore but I saw Neal Bryant changing his for greeen coated ones not long ago, so looking to make sure it is the case before dropping my arm so they can look for another problem than the screws. Thanks everyone

If you don't have any other choice, this could help you : - Have an assistant Raising or lowering your docking stand to the correct height for the shot - Put your Sled on the balancing stud - Put a magic arm between your post and the stand - Frame the shot, than tighten the magic arm Not as sturdy as a tripod but can sometimes help.

Hello Alberto, If this is just to practice, take a look at the Kino wheels system https://www.kinowheels.com/. Really cheap way to practice the wheels.

Hi Chris, Thank you for your answer. I actually did not implied that the problem was in the design, it is a really well constructed vest. I just wanted to know if someone came up with some sort of padding to limit shock with sharp parts. I will try to see if I can come up with something clean. Again thanks and great job on designing the vest!

Hello Chris, Thank you for jumping in. It seems to me that my fitting is pretty good (I atached pictures), My back is not touching the rear rods, and the chest plate is in normal operating position pretty low. It is really in case of a shock that my back bends and come in contact with the rear screw, and for the chest plate I have experienced it when bending down not wearing the rig or arm, so the vest go up. Let me know what you think. Thank you. Cedric