Scott Calvert

This is probably too late to be useful, but that cable is exactly what you're looking for. Steadicam 3 pin 0b sized Lemo to the Arri Mini 8 pin 1b sized Lemo.

I don't know for a fact, but that's a unique little bolt. I'd reach out to Tiffen directly, they've always had the little weird things like that that I've needed on hand, or the closest reseller if you're not in the US.

Hey Ryan, I had a very similar experience with a Flyer LE. It looks like the answer might be the same as what worked for me, though unfortunately I've come to the conclusion that my expectations for the quality and performance of my gimbal were a little higher than what was realistic. You'll find some discussions about this scattered around the forum, but the gist is that smaller and/or cheaper rigs aren't going to as perfectly fine tune-able as the big rigs. I got my Flyer gimbal bearings as dialed as I think is possible, and they're still not quite perfect with a spin test. They are much better than how they were when I got it, though. That said, the pan bearing can be adjusted and centered pretty easily. You'll pop the two small black plastic dust caps off the side of the gimbal yoke with your finger then you'll be able to get at the bolts that center the bearing. There are a couple forum threads about how to do this, including one called "Master Series Gimbal Balancing." The theory applies to yours. If those centering bolts are the same as mine, you'll need a "115-6 driver spanner," which is either a screwdriver or a little driver bit with two small pins with an 1/8" gap between them. I picked up the bit for a couple bucks at a hardware store. The catch with this process is that you want the pins to remain spaced the same as you adjust them in tandem side to side, which is tricky to make sure is set correctly without some experience. Since your gimbal seems freshly from the factory and probably untouched since, it's probably spaced correctly and just needs to be centered. Follow that 90 test procedure and I think you'll get it. Hopefully this helps you! Scott

Very late follow up question, how do you tell which number a pin is on the connector? The first pin is keyed, but do you go clockwise from there, or is there no standard?

Update time! I eventually got my gimbal all nice and centered, and figured out what my issue was. Effectively, the two pins that hold the pan bearing centered were over tightened, which pinched the yoke and distorted how everything sat. I called on my experience working at a bike shop college, and started by backing both pins out until I could feel slop, making sure to feel for slop in the pins and not the little bit of shift the pan bearing has when not under load. Then I very gradually tightened the pins until the slop was removed but wasn't binding. Then I followed the standard recentering procedure and everything was good to go. I'm sure more qualified techs have a precise tolerance for setting the pins, but I couldn't track down that info and this seems to work well for me so far. Hopefully this helps someone else out later!

Hey Doug, the adjustment knobs are under the least stress when their segment is almost parallel, about 5 degrees boomed up. I wouldn't be able to turn mine with the arm fully boomed up or down. If that's not it, maybe there's an issue with your arm.

Hey everyone, I'm reviving this thread as it's the closest I've found to my situation, and haven't quite found a solution anywhere else on the forum. Basically, I'm having the classic "is my gimbal centered?" issue, but I think my issue may be because of slop rather than it not being calibrated correctly. What is happening: When pointed perpendicular to the handle, I can balance the sled perfectly. If I rotate it 90 or 180 degrees, as described in the U2 manual, it's out of whack. From the camera's perspective, it tilts forward and yaws toward the handle. The odd thing is that after adjustments, it always tilts forward regardless of where it's pointed. Since it tilts in both directions on the axis, this makes me think it's slop in the bearing rather than misalignment, which I expect would tilt it in the same direction regardless of which was the sled was pointing. What I've done about it: To start, this is a Flyer LE gimbal, so maybe it just has looser bearings than the big boys. I took handle off the yoke, and the yoke bearing feels tight and correctly adjusted. I removed the yoke from the pan bearing and tested the two tilt bearings, and they felt good. While mostly disassembled, I felt the large pan bearing and it feels like it has was slop. It looked like it was a cage bearing set into a race and retained rather than a sealed bearing, and didn't seem like there was a way to tighten it. After reassembly, I could feel and barely hear the slop coming from the pan bearing. I retightened everything I had the means to get at, short of the circlip holding the pan bearing in. Long explanation I know, but hopefully enough that someone might recognize my issue. Any thoughts on if the pan bearing is the cause, or if it's a different bearing or something entirely else? And if all else fails, any recommendations on who to send it off to, Tiffen included? Thanks so much for your help on this and for the best forum on the internet! Scott