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Kevin Kisling

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Kevin Kisling last won the day on October 28

Kevin Kisling had the most liked content!

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  • Rig
    Steadicam Aero 30
  • Location
    Los Angeles

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  1. Making sure the vest is fitted with proper posture is key! When I first started considering Steadicam, I was concerned I wasn't "fit enough", but once you get your first rig, the key is to simply spend time in it practicing. Start light and work your way up in weight. Repeat a shot for a min or two and then put it down. Then try doing the shot for longer, and slowly start doing longer and longer shots. Going from flying relative "lightweight" cameras on a Zephyr to larger builds on a big rig doesn't happen overnight, it takes time. Don't get discouraged! You know your body best, if you start to feel that your legs or core or whatever isn't as strong as you like, work out there. Personally I love cycling, so that's my exercise of choice! Drink plenty of water and stretch. Listen to your body and take breaks. Before you know it, you'll be flying big builds! Best of luck!
  2. Hi Edward! I believe Janice Arthur makes and sells practice cages. If you don't have The Steadicam Operators Handbook by Jerry Holway and Laurie Hayball, pick up a copy, it has so much info to get started! I'm in Hollywood, hit me up if you'd like to do a practice session. Kevin
  3. Hey Maxwel, I haven't thought about trying it that way. I'm going to give that a go next time!
  4. In an attempt to learn my gear better inside and out, I wanted to see if any op here in LA that knows how to clean and service a Master Arm and would be willing to teach me how. I've watched 2A Arm (modified) Servicing Tutorial by SteadiKoon, but would love to do it hands on with someone experienced so I don't screw anything up. Thanks!
  5. For the sound, a service and cleaning is called for. For the lower section "jumping": I think the lower section has too much lift dialed into it. And the upper section has too little lift in it. With my master arm, it'll jump like that when I have too much lift in it. With my master arm, whenever I am tuning my arm (first day with the camera package, etc) that it's quite easy to over tune the lower section and then under tune the upper section. This is the case especially when I'm being rushed. Once I've had some time, I'll do the test you showed, and go back and forth increasing/decreasing the lift of the sections until I get them to move in unison as much as possible. I've found that my lower section will kinda always jump at least a tiny bit at the very bottom of the boom range. Hope this helps!
  6. 3 secs sounds about right, but depending on the stairs (how steep they are, how long you have to hold the tilt, etc...) perhaps a longer drop time could help. If you are following/leading directly in front/behind, any horizon issue will be much more apparent and the wider the lens, the more you'll see of the world. If the stairs are wide enough, you could lead/follow at a 3/4 angle, or on a tighter lens (to mitigate seeing horizon indicators). And I think when it comes to balancing for difficult shots; set your drop time for making the hardest part easier. Ex, setting a 3-4 sec drop time for the stairs to hold a tilt easier, even though the walk and talk before and after you'd prefer a faster drop time. Does that make sense? Best of luck!
  7. I wanted to bump this thread. I was looking for help/advice on stairs and there is so much wisdom here.
  8. Hey Andrew, I guess it all depends on the post. In this case I didn't want to post my phone and email on here, so I messaged them directly. And to be honest, sometimes I feel self conscious, and worry about saying something wrong/dumb due to inexperience. But hey, we are all learning so, I'll make a point to post publicly more.
  9. The velcro on my leather master vest has started to get worn out and needs to be replaced. Does anyone know where in LA I could have the velcro replaced? Thanks
  10. Exactly what Tom said! I typically do as light as possible with just the pads of my finger tips, but not letting go of the gimbal. On the opposite side of that, I was doing a shot last week outside when unexpectedly the wind picked up during a lock-off and I had to apply much more pressure to fight the wind. I didn't have to "death-grip" the gimbal, but it was getting close to that. With regards to horizon, it just takes practice. And when you notice you are off or starting to go off, looking for opportunities to adjust. If you end up in a lock off and you see your horizon is off, you can weigh the pros and cons of 1. fixing it in a lock off, which can sometimes bring more attention to it 2. live with it until you are moving to your next frame and you can fix it. When you are blocking shots, keep an eye out for horizon indicators that will appear in frame. If you feel it might be too big of an issue, see if you can adjust blocking to help you. Many times the environment's horizon indicators will not actually be level, so having that discussion with the DP/director to say if you want to be level or if you want to be level with something in the world. My sled has been level but the roof of a building on set wasn't level, and the DP asked me to level to the roof, which I did. Hope this helps!
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