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Maxwel Fisher

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Everything posted by Maxwel Fisher

  1. @Jeongwoo Noh, it shouldn't be any issue. You might get some small scuffs on the anodize, but if I remember correctly, that's the way they are meant to be installed. Just butt it right up again the bottom of the top stage. Don't over tighten it though.
  2. Hey Adam, the reason why is because you must be a premium member in order to post things for sale in the marketplace here. Additionally, being a premium member doesn't time you out for several seconds if you try to load another page or search too quickly.
  3. I do have these that I got from Charles recently. 1_Steadicam Model 1 brochure.pdf 1_Steadicam Model 1 brochure.pdf 2_Steadicam Model III brochure.pdf 3_Steadicam Model IIIA brochure.pdf 4_Steadicam EFP brochure.pdf
  4. Hi Mathis, Dig through the picture and history archives section of this forum. You’ll find a lot there. Additionally, I’m not sure how many old heads still hang out here. There are however two big Steadicam groups on Facebook. If you can get the attention of Charles Papert or Erwin Landau or Peter Abraham, I think those three have some of the most extensive archives for what you’re looking for. Best of luck!
  5. Considering that top stage is at least 32 years old, you might be better off buying either a Betz topstage or the DB3S (that optical support makes). Both have a rod mount option and will be more rigid than the diving board that you're trying to use. Even a well loved DB3 with the diving board will be less prone to vibration than the DB1. Consider too that the DB1 at this point I believe is unserviceable because the parts don't exist. Alternatively, you could have something machined that clamps to the post, but you lose space as far as how high you can move your gimbal to the upper jbox. Talk to Jarrett Morgan here in Atlanta. If you need something custom, he's your guy. Also flies with the volt and has made some volt brain components that he already makes.
  6. Hey Ed, While I don't own anything made by Tiffen, the two most likely culprits for bumps, gitters and vibration are usually play in the topstage or something loose on the sled in general that is being transferred to the camera. Could also be the arm if you're overloading it. Upgrading the arm to something more robust like the G50X could certainly help and there is a member in the forum with one for sale for around $5500. I don't know if the Zephyr vest is compatible with larger arms so that would be something to look into first. You should also be able to find a used Pro, Klassen, Exo or Xspine for around $4000. For something more old school Peter Abraham I believe still have Larry McConkey's old vest for sale for $1500. You'd have a comfortable vest there with an incredible amount of history. Plus it's for sale in Jersey. Hope this helps.
  7. We generally try to tune the arm so both sections move as close to in unison as possible as we lift the rig up or push the rig down. Personally for my arm, I tune it so both sections are angled down slightly, but at the end of the day, the answer will really always be "whatever works best for you".
  8. Perhaps do the dynamic balance without the external wiring running down the post. Then run your video line down the post and secure it as tight as possible to reduce any effect it might have on throwing that dynamic balance off. Also, unless you're planning to do some intense whip pans, I wouldn't worry too much about dynamic balance.
  9. @Jennie Jeddry SOC, a friend of mine wanted me to let you know he sent you a a direct message here on the forum with interest in buying your gimbal.
  10. For sale is a prototype mount that I had made with Greg Bubb overseeing the project. I had two machined. I'm using one and have the other available here. It was designed to mount to the Pro upper junction box and eliminate the conical pin connection in favor of the wider XCS bayonet mount, as such it only works with the XCS post. Additionally, the center post lemo connection threads from the bottom up so some soldering work is required. I have been using this mount for several months now and for me, has been a huge improvement. I no longer have any play in my post connection (a problem previously solved with Teflon tape and a small sacrifice) and the wider base of this post mount helps eliminates flex with larger builds, especially on the smaller Cinema HD jbox, which I still currently use. Asking $500 Located in Atlanta
  11. For sale is an 8" Transvideo Cinemonitor HD (silver knob). I have updated it to the newest available firmware and software which includes general functionality improvements as well as new tools, for example, a frame line generator. Small scuffs on screen have no affect on function or view once an image is displayed. Sale includes a bubble level adaptor, sun hood, monitor mount (no spud), original paper manual and transvideo monitor mount (1/4-20 | 3/8-16 mount). Asking $1800 Located in Atlanta
  12. Looking for a Gen 1 Cinetronic monitor. If you've got one sitting on your shelf that you have no intention of doing anything with, whether or not it works, please let me know. Cheers!
  13. Cinetronic allegedly made 12.1, 15, 5.5 and 4.6 inch monitors. I've only ever seen the 6.5 and 7. There is one bts photo from a Rihanna music video that shows maybe the 15 inch version on set as a studio monitor. Curious if anyone here owns one of the elusive sizes?
  14. Based on this screen grab from a behind the scenes featurette, it looks like an Arri Mini. Could be an LF, though I know the LF was released in September of 2019. I don't know when The Secret Garden was filmed.
  15. @BJMcDonnell SOC, I know it's been a long while now since you posted this. Don't even know if you still have the monitor, but was testing out an operators Cinetronic 2 and it presented a similar issue. Turns out we were able to resolve it by jiggling the bnc cable connector at the monitor. Not exactly sure what triggers it, but that seemed to fix it.
  16. https://www.digitalview.com/accessories/buttons.html - here you go. It's the Membrane 8 button horizontal. This is also the same site where Cinetronic sourced their boards.
  17. @Osvaldo Silvera SOC - I think you were looking for one of these, right?
  18. Objectively the best gimbal on the market still. At this price, whoever buys it would be getting a heck of a deal.
  19. Don't buy cheap power cables from an unknown source. They are unreliable and can end up causing damage to your sled or the camera. Be it knockoff connectors, the wrong gauge wire or worse, incorrectly wired, if they're cheap, there is a reason. Cableflexer (https://www.cableflexer.com) makes incredible quality cables of all types. In fun colors too if you want. Greg Bubb at XCS (http://www.xcsinc.com/) also does. Terry West (in California) and David Hable (in Canada) also make cables, but I've never purchased any from them.
  20. Spoke to Jack at Pro via email. He said they were left unused because they weren't needed based on the number of connectors used in the Cinema HD J boxes. Those open pins can be used for whatever an operator would like, but they would have to make any modifications using a third party or on their own. If doing any self modifications, make certain that the pins in the bottom stage are the same in the top stage.
  21. Not really sure where the best place to ask this question is, but is there a reason Pro left two pins unused on the 3B 856 connector with the Cinema HD junction boxes? Did it carry over to the Cinelive connectors too? Could those pins be used as additional lines for running power to reduce voltage loss?
  22. Edit, price drop to $2100 | obo Perfect for a C Camera Package or for those low budget indies. Was dusted off recently for a short film and never dropped signal.
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