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Maxwel Fisher

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Everything posted by Maxwel Fisher

  1. Hi @Paulo Aurelio, there are definitely used rigs for sale on here (would encourage you to use the search function on the site). You can also find some smaller packages that might be more in your budget on the Steadicam Marketplace group on Facebook. As far as choosing the best rig. That's more personal. Think about what most of your work entails and the kind of cameras you use. A lot of entry level packages have small weight limits, though you can always mix and match your gear to best fit what you need. Again, using the search feature or browsing through the "steadi-newbies" and "general discussion" sections will yield a wealth of information.
  2. While I don't live in California, I have an older generation 8" transvideo (1000nits I think) that I use for backup and even in Georgia I can't see much of anything in direct sunlight so I'm not sure 800nit is what you're looking for. I don't own one, but from what I've heard, the Boland BVB07 has a good weight (you can also add a battery mount to the back), is incredibly bright and the off axis view is pretty solid. They're also a bit cheaper than the 703 UB ($2,250 vs $2,999 US). I did a little bit of searching on the forum about the TV Logic F-7H (the one you're referring to). Somethings that came up were the off axis view was not as good as the 703 UB and that it also get's alarmingly hot when running for a while as if the housing is a heatsink (think Teradek). Is there a reason why you don't want a 6" monitor?
  3. @Dustin Supencheck, Baer-Bel to the best of my knowledge is German and technically no longer exists. There is a company called Catgriller (named after the plate for which the Baer-Bel founder is also known for) that still actively makes various steadicam accessories. From what I know through digging the forum (if you search Baer-Bel you'll find some good information) they are solid rigs. Sounds like you were looking at a hybrid since it has XCS lower electronics. I don't know enough about Baer-Bel to know what the post connectors look like on either end, but if it's a 2" post with XCS lower it might be an XCS post which is carbon fiber, not titanium or the original owner had the titanium post modified to XCS bayonet mount. If that's the case, you could definitely upgrade the top and bottom stages with other XCS components or reach out to Greg Bubb at XCS who does make modified connectors so you could use a GPI Pro top and bottom stage. Being a 2" post, the gimbal, since you haven't specified could be XCS, Baer-Bel or MK-V (think that's all the 2" compatible gimbals). The arm could absolutely be upgraded. The only thing would be making sure the arm posts fit properly inside the gimbal handle properly. Since you're in LA, you have the advantage of being surrounded by highly skilled operators and engineers who can likely help you do any modifications you need. Did you end up buying it? Post some photos if you've got them.
  4. Did a little research because I didn't have anything else to do today. The original xBone was designed to work with the Eco, Klassen and I think Action Products vest. The xReach also works with the Exo vest and others. The xBone CF makes no mention of working with Exo (from the flowcine site) and couldn't find any information on an adaptor. Doesn't mean one doesn't exist or that flowcine couldn't make one.
  5. If I’m running two canisters, I put them in diagonal to each other (canister closest to arm post goes up top, canister closest to socket block in the bottom). If you’re using two different spring types, same concept, they should be opposite one another (top section blue/black, bottom section black/blue). This, at least, has been the way I’ve always operated; though currently I run all four blues. Hope this helps, Maxwel
  6. You're welcome! I'm happy I could help! Cheers, Maxwel
  7. Norwin you're very welcome! As far as I know, the crossover block is a universal item for all the vests. Attached is what the regular (top) and goofy (bottom) crossover blocks looks like. I've also added photos of what my arm looks like in the block. I noticed that you in a goofy position have the longer threaded side to side adjustment on the vest in the lower position where I have mine on the regular side in the same spot. That is a little interesting to me. Quoting you here - "changing the angle of the socket block so the upper end of the block moves away from the vest while the lower part moves towards it, am i right?" - this is correct. It is exactly what my vest arm does. As far as the klassen drop arm goes, I don't know what it's overall purpose is other than to get the arm lower. I don't know if it has any effect on the side to side angle. I have the standard arm on my vest. I also use a flex vest. So our designs are a little different.
  8. Norwin, Is this vest new to you or have you had it for a while? The reason why I ask, is because it might be the crossover block. I had a similar issue with my flex vest after buying it second hand. It was set up for a goofy operator (I operate regular). I was able to switch the carbon fiber vest arm of course, insert my arm, but in order to get the rig to float properly off my body, my socket block looked similar to yours. I realized after that the angle of the vest's arm changed just enough due to the crossover block. I ordered a regular side crossover block and that fixed the problem. Hope this helps! I'll also try to find a photo or take one later today.
  9. And just like that, they’re gone. Admins, feel free to remove this post.
  10. Is it just me, or is the forum suddenly riddled with ads? I've got Men's Wearhouse in the header and Leibish in the footer. I even had to close full page one to see all the activity. Using Safari Version 14.
  11. Alex, Do you mean high-end boom range? The iBaird bracket would give you a lower low since it's a drop down bracket. I had the 4" at one point. Loved it as far as clearance for both my arm/elbow and monitor visibility. I'm 5'11", maybe 6' when I first wake up in the morning. If I ever needed more boom on the top end, I just put in a longer arm post. Hope that helps. Cheers, Maxwel Edit: Realized Alex's post is a year old. Gus, my comment is probably more relevant for you now.
  12. Hey Nathan, The iBaird 2" and 4" both work on a Pro vest set up for a "regular" operator. I say this having had a 4" iBaird as a "regular" operator. As for "goofy" setups, my understanding is that the 2" should not impede the waist latch from getting caught if you have a "regular" style vest, but if you go to the 4", you have to put the waist latch on the right side or the vest. I don't recall pro having an instructional video on the process of switching the waist latch from one side to the other, but I'm sure that Jack or Michelle can walk you through the process (drilling a couple holes if memory serves).
  13. @giovanni gebbia, saw your post on instagram. Curious where you tied in your composite in lines? Do you have photos from inside?
  14. http://magento2.p599278.webspaceconfig.de/de/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=mickey If this doesn't work, they sell them on www.catgriller.com, then search the site for mickey.
  15. Hey Michael, Camadeus is the US distributor. http://camade.us Cheers, Maxwel
  16. I think you’re right in that it is a case by case scenario. Sometimes you’ll have a DP with a very specific shot and movement in mind and no matter what you might be able to do to make it “better” you just stick to what they want. In other cases, like in Larry’s story where he basically gets a start point and an end point and has to fill everything in between, you can find moments to make the shot more exciting. Whether it’s having a character interact with something or someone, pick up details of an object or conversation as you’re passing through a space, maybe you’re stuck looking at the back of the actors head and you want to see their face or get in front of them…what can you have them do so you can accomplish that? You get the idea. In my still budding career, that’s how I’ve generally gone about things.
  17. If you haven't seen it already, here is a fun interview with Larry McConkey on how he composed the Copa Cabana scene in Goodfellas. This might help give you some insight.
  18. Hi Mathias, congratulations! When it comes to rigs, arms, vests, etc. it’s going to be very subjective. We all have individual preferences which is why there are so many choices. The one thing that is often said here, is to try as many different things as you can before you buy. That way you’re making purchases that suit you and your body. For me personally, I favor the pro titan arm and the klassen vest. My sled is a hybrid Pro Cinema HD top and bottom and XCS in the middle. It’s a configuration that works for me. As far as things to avoid, that’s a little easier and I think you’ll find a more uniform voice. Anything Came-TV, Laing (spell check) or a cheap knockoff should be avoided.
  19. Thank you Richard! I had a feeling I wasn’t right about that.
  20. I don't know how many exist anymore, but Pro (I believe) made a "landing pad" for the gen 2 battery hanger. It mounted around the angled battery allowing the sled to safely sit on the ground. I believe it could be modified to hold a weight without obstructing the battery. Someone else here who's been around longer might still have one or know someone who does as well as confirm or deny my statement. Alternatively, Greg Bubb (XCS Inc) and Alan Rencher (Rencher Industries), both make a gold mount plate that you could then screw or mount weights to. This assumes that you're not using one of the battery plates. The only other thing that comes to mind is having someone make you a couple small plates that are drilled and tapped for little dive weights that you can mount onto the sides of the lower electronics (I believe the lower electronics have mounting points for accessories on either side). That keeps the weight centered at the post and you can add them equally on either side to get the desired additional weight.
  21. My go to sites are mouser.com and digikey.com. Generally if one doesn't have something in stock, the other does. Shipping is quite quick on both.
  22. Hi Patrick, Camadeus is the North American distributor. Tomas Crescenzo is a good person to reach out to. thomas.crescenzo@camadeus.com Cheers, Maxwel
  23. Hope everyone on the forum is safe and healthy and doing well. If not, send me a message. Let’s talk. I’m no psychiatrist, but I’m happy to give an ear. All the best, Maxwel
  24. Sounds like your grip might be too tight when tilting, your pinky is your best friend when tilting. Really get your pinky behind the center of the post to tilt up and around front for tilting down. Remember our grip always changes. Also, when tilting back up, you can let gravity help you as your rig seeks to be vertical (this depends on your drop time). Just my two cents.
  25. Hey Gabe, You can lock the Wave. There is a single locking pin that is used to lock and unlock the wave during transport and operating. Personally I'd say the biggest difference is that the Wave is a single axis "stabilizer" where the Volt is a three axis motorized assist. Also, the Wave mounts to the top stage and the Volt is at the gimbal. Both require finesse in operating. The Wave, if not properly balanced, can get away from you and won't make your shots any easier (there is a video from Betz that explains how to get the camera's center of gravity set within the Wave, separate from the center of gravity on the sled itself). You also operate as you would with any "analogue" gimbal. The Volt has resistance controls that you can adjust which gives you more all around assist and freedom in your operating, still requires finesse, but is more forgiving. Since the Volt is balanced and generally operated in neutral, it will make those big roll moves you're talking about easier to achieve, especially with some of the electronic assist it provides in the motors. The Wave has no drop time requirements, it's solely based on the operators preference. Hope this helps.
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