Maxwel Fisher

@Jennie Jeddry SOC, a friend of mine wanted me to let you know he sent you a a direct message here on the forum with interest in buying your gimbal.

Sold

Sold.

For sale is a prototype mount that I had made with Greg Bubb overseeing the project. I had two machined. I'm using one and have the other available here. It was designed to mount to the Pro upper junction box and eliminate the conical pin connection in favor of the wider XCS bayonet mount, as such it only works with the XCS post. Additionally, the center post lemo connection threads from the bottom up so some soldering work is required. I have been using this mount for several months now and for me, has been a huge improvement. I no longer have any play in my post connection (a problem previously solved with Teflon tape and a small sacrifice) and the wider base of this post mount helps eliminates flex with larger builds, especially on the smaller Cinema HD jbox, which I still currently use. Asking $500 Located in Atlanta

For sale is an 8" Transvideo Cinemonitor HD (silver knob). I have updated it to the newest available firmware and software which includes general functionality improvements as well as new tools, for example, a frame line generator. Small scuffs on screen have no affect on function or view once an image is displayed. Sale includes a bubble level adaptor, sun hood, monitor mount (no spud), original paper manual and transvideo monitor mount (1/4-20 | 3/8-16 mount). Asking $1800 Located in Atlanta

Looking for a Gen 1 Cinetronic monitor. If you've got one sitting on your shelf that you have no intention of doing anything with, whether or not it works, please let me know. Cheers!

Cinetronic allegedly made 12.1, 15, 5.5 and 4.6 inch monitors. I've only ever seen the 6.5 and 7. There is one bts photo from a Rihanna music video that shows maybe the 15 inch version on set as a studio monitor. Curious if anyone here owns one of the elusive sizes?

Based on this screen grab from a behind the scenes featurette, it looks like an Arri Mini. Could be an LF, though I know the LF was released in September of 2019. I don't know when The Secret Garden was filmed.

@BJMcDonnell SOC, I know it's been a long while now since you posted this. Don't even know if you still have the monitor, but was testing out an operators Cinetronic 2 and it presented a similar issue. Turns out we were able to resolve it by jiggling the bnc cable connector at the monitor. Not exactly sure what triggers it, but that seemed to fix it.

https://www.digitalview.com/accessories/buttons.html - here you go. It's the Membrane 8 button horizontal. This is also the same site where Cinetronic sourced their boards.

@Osvaldo Silvera SOC - I think you were looking for one of these, right?

Objectively the best gimbal on the market still. At this price, whoever buys it would be getting a heck of a deal.

Don't buy cheap power cables from an unknown source. They are unreliable and can end up causing damage to your sled or the camera. Be it knockoff connectors, the wrong gauge wire or worse, incorrectly wired, if they're cheap, there is a reason. Cableflexer (https://www.cableflexer.com) makes incredible quality cables of all types. In fun colors too if you want. Greg Bubb at XCS (http://www.xcsinc.com/) also does. Terry West (in California) and David Hable (in Canada) also make cables, but I've never purchased any from them.

Spoke to Jack at Pro via email. He said they were left unused because they weren't needed based on the number of connectors used in the Cinema HD J boxes. Those open pins can be used for whatever an operator would like, but they would have to make any modifications using a third party or on their own. If doing any self modifications, make certain that the pins in the bottom stage are the same in the top stage.

Not really sure where the best place to ask this question is, but is there a reason Pro left two pins unused on the 3B 856 connector with the Cinema HD junction boxes? Did it carry over to the Cinelive connectors too? Could those pins be used as additional lines for running power to reduce voltage loss?

Edit, price drop to $2100 | obo Perfect for a C Camera Package or for those low budget indies. Was dusted off recently for a short film and never dropped signal.

My two cents: If you have a tap and die set, maybe try clearing out any burrs that could be on the inside thread of the female side socket blocks. Also, replace any socket screws that are bent. I've notice over time that the bottom of the screws will round out more and more from tightening down, but I can't say I've experienced the sides of the threads getting destroyed like in your photo. I say this having owned and used both the Pro and Klassen vests. Hope this helps!

Hi Will, Congrats on your upcoming graduation, that really quite exciting! As far as your first steps into the world of steadicam outside of school, there are a few things that we're all recommended when we begin our walk down the path of balance and pain. First, grab a copy of the steadicam operators handbook. Second, sign up for a class or workshop with a certified steadicam instructor (Tiffen, SOA, Maine Workshop, Steadicam Lessons). After that, reach out to your local steadicam operators, get to know them. See if one of them is willing to take you under their wing. I know Savannah has a few and if you ever are in Atlanta, there are a lot more of us. This is going to be the best way for you to get hands on experience with different sleds, arms, vests, etc. As far as a first rig goes, it's purely subjective. Try everything and decide what you like. Weigh the opinions from others, but ultimately make a decision based on what works for you, not someone else. The vest especially is a very personal piece of kit. The "right" rig for a first time rig again is subjective and depends on what you can afford. A lot of people believe in the "buy once, cry once school of thought". This is practical if you have the money for it. Don't disregard buying gear second hand. Do not, if you can help it, buy anything that is "knock off" gear. It's cheap for a reason. Since you're a graduating student, consider offering up shooting any thesis films for your friends. Music videos, short films, etc. Paid work comes in time, but focus on mastering your craft first. I've seen and heard of people buying their rigs and then landing a job only to not be able to perform the task. Your ability to operate is your reputation. In time, people will come to know your talents and skill and the phone will ring. As far as resources go, use the search function on this site. Dig through the archives of the steadi-newbies posts. Too many people overlook the wealth of knowledge that lingers in this forum. If you have specific questions, make sure they haven't already been asked. You'll often find all the answers you need already exist in a thread somewhere. You can also offer to buy a cup of coffee for any of your local steadicam operators. We love coffee and we love talking about our craft. All the best, Maxwel

I've seen posts in the past of people having the spherical rod ends fail on their pro arm from this setup (the rod end develops a stress fracture and cracks), but it seems like a pretty rare occurrence. I ran my arm for about two years this way and never had any problems and I know people who have been doing it longer and it's been fine. I did finally buy a rigid socket block adapter for peace of mind though. I guess the idea is, you can run the arm and vest together knowing that it might fail one day, or get the rigid socket block adapter and know that if anything fails it very likely won't be the mount.

Hey Christian, If it makes life easier for you, you can write a message within your post and it will automatically bring it to the top of the forums activity. That way you don't have to keep reposting the entire thing every time. Good luck with the sale! It's a beautiful rig!!

Geoff Shotz has two that he was selling as a package deal. His post is still up along with some other kit for sale. Might be worth reaching out to him.

@JensSchroeder, when I still had my pro vest, I found that a little blue loctite solved the problem pretty effectively. Also, a little loctite on the screws that hold the latch pin (or rod) for the torso pad and waist pad. Sometimes they work themselves out and before you know it, the pin goes too. It happened to me once.

Vest sold.

Hi Friends, Cross posting here from Facebook for exposure: I have a used Pro vest that I'm selling. After getting into a Klassen vest a few years back, I stopped using it. It's got a brand new Torso pad for someone with a 40" chest (purchased in October when I made one last effort at whether or not I wanted to keep it) and an old waist pad from the previous owner, that I cut down to size at 34". It's been in my possession for about six years, buying it from the original owner (George Pattison - Vest #122). I've got two back up sets of all the screws and washers you need for the vest as well as an assortment of buckles that come with it. The vest shows its wear, in the form of the powder coating (maybe anodizing) having worn away in the shoulder buckle, a couple small seam tears and some velcro residue, but nothing is cracked or broken. This vest does not have the T-Wrench holder that Pro started installing on their vests. It is worth mentioning that at one point, one of the bolts that holds the socket block to the bridge piece broke. It was drilled out. The threads within the socket block were inspected and completely unaffected, the bridge piece was marred a little. I used the vest for several projects after that incident with absolutely zero issues. Asking $4000 (Continental Shipping included | International at buyers expense)