Maxwel Fisher

$425 | OBO Happy New Year!

@Kevin Kisling, Ultimate - 5lbs 5ozs Ultimate 2 - 4lbs 8ozs Ultimate 3 - 4lbs 6ozs

Don't know if these meet your requirements, but George has these for sale:

Hi all, Looking for an old XCS docking station you might have collecting dust to turn into a mini dock for a second stand. Let me know. Thanks!

I don't know the actual cost, but I think it's somewhere in the $7,000 range. This is a big guess based on someone who sold one gently used in 2019 in the UK for 5,500GBP (~6500USD).

Based on this older post here it seems like the plates Haris has should fit with potentially a small adjustment to the lock mechanism (found in your Tiffen manual). The bigger issue seems to potentially be the height of the plates. Hope this helps.

Hey John, Nothing from Greg (he's stated a few times now that he's got no interest in retooling his gimbal to fit the volt or the volt to fit the gimbal) or Tiffen, but there is a post on one of the Facebook steadicam groups that shows a photo of a supposed Volt/MK-V setup on MK-V's 2" post. No additional information yet. Betz's sled is 1.86" so that wont work on Greg's 2" post. Greg started making a 1.75" for those who wanted a volt with his system. Holding out a little longer might prove fruitful if MK-V brings something to market, but who knows if it will actually happen. Since they don't own any rights or patents to the volt, they'd have to partner with Tiffen I suspect. Realistically, it might have just been a one off that they did to see if it could be done or they will offer up some kind of service to modify the volt to 2" for those who want it.

You're so welcome! Best of luck!

It's a long shot, but maybe Optical Support in the UK can help? As far as doing it yourself, while it is not identical to the Pro arm, there is a service video that they have on their website (linked below). I suspect you could use that tutorial as a rough guide to replace it yourself.

Spent the better part of six hours at Greg's shop trying to sort out a peculiar issue with my Pro Cinema HD J box and DBIII. Until recently, I noticed that my sled doesn't maintain static balance once tilted either forward or backward. When returned upright it would seek a position way out of balance. Having recently adopted a longer drop time, I wonder if the problem always existed, but went unnoticed. We started with my sled. Pro Cinema HD. DBIII. Gen 3 Battery. 2" XCS Post. XCS Gimbal. XCS Monitor Bracket. 4 second drop time. We then tested the gimbal and the battery rack with an Ultimate top stage (pro mount bottom, xcs bayonet mount top) and weight plate. The sled would seek it's original balanced position after each tilt test so we ruled out the gimbal and the battery rack (although there is a great deal of flex in the AB mounts since it's held on by one thumb screw and two banana plugs). Doing the same test as we did initially with my sled at the same drop time did not yield any irregularities. We measured the conical pins in my top J box mount and found one was out of tolerance, though not terribly (the right rear suggesting that might be the culprit). Trying Greg's XCS/Pro mount with four pins was better. When tilted back the sled did a better job of finding its initial position, but when tilting forward the sled would still seek a position way out of balance. We also discovered that the mount he made took some extra machining to fit my J box. Based on the specifications he used to design it, it seems not all J boxes are made equally. For reference, it has S/N 093 stamped on the side. We also tested the flex from the camera plate on the weight cage and found that at its worse, there was 56 thousandths of an inch in flex. Not the worst he's seen from Pro, but not the best. While 56 thousandths is not something you can necessarily see, it is by all means not great. By the end of it all, it seems that the issue might lie somewhere in the mating of the donkey box to the junction box. That flex seems to be what causes the sled to not seek its original static balance. One expects some flex as there are a number of components that are stressed when you put 30+ lbs of weight on something that has such a small footprint holding it all together to the post. What we saw was the flex when tilted would not release when returned upright, essentially sticking and then the sled finding itself out of balance. I'm planning to send the Junction Box and Donkey Box off to Pro to be serviced in the coming weeks, but am curious how many other people have experienced this? When Pro redesigned and released the Cine Live J Box, did they make it more robust or has the problem persisted? Overall, this isn't meant to lambast. I love my sled and all its quirks. It has served me well and I know it will continue to do so. It's just frustrating.

Hey Kevin, I was actually at his shop today and didn't think to ask. I kind of forgot that I posed this question. Now that it's up at the top again, maybe someone will chime in and I'll shoot Greg a message in the meantime.

Curious if anyone can give the weights of the various Ultimate LEHs? Thought I'd ask here first before going to Greg. Cheers!

@Alfeo Dixon SOC I believe Nate Anderson has one. If you need his contact, let me know.

Sold

$475 | OBO

@Daniel Paddock, you're so welcome! Cheers!

While I don't use a low mode monitor (haven't really seen a need yet), the transvideo seems most popular as far as low mode goes (especially if you're looking to also have a recorder). Second to that I'd suggest the small hd 503UB. My two cents. I'm sure someone who actually uses a low mode monitor can weigh in with more advice.

The pad that I have for sale is too small for me. The pad I currently use is the perfect size for me. I hope I’m answering your question correctly.

As far as pants and shorts are concerned, I have a 30" waist. However, following Pro's measuring guide, the waist pad that I actually use with my Pro vest is 34".

Essentially a brand new waist pad. Long story short, fucked up the measuring process the first time around and here we are. The pad has been sitting on my shelf for a while now and I'm never going to fit it. Located in Atlanta. Happy to ship anywhere. $150

XCS Short Handle for sale. Switched to an Ergo handle so no longer needing it. Greg gave it a once over and signed off on it. Was also surprised to see it still in use. Hole punched out for low mode. Happy to ship anywhere. Located in Atlanta. Asking $500

Simeon, I believe that is correct. Below is a link to a similar, though brief discussion of overall payload support for the Zephyr system and should help give more insight into your limitations. Cheers

Personally I'd go with the heavier weight for when you need to counter against a particularly large camera build. It will allow you to keep your post relatively compact, while still hopefully giving you a drop time you like. The inverse can happen though if you're flying mostly light builds where the bottom of the sled can get so heavy to the point where you're now moving your gimbal farther down the post and away from the camera's CG to make it more top heavy and get a better drop time. You could add more wight back on top to balance it out or fly one battery for the whole sled (if it's wired that way)...it's all about balance at the end of the day. Also, I don't know what the overall weight limit is on the Zephyr. So that would be the first thing in deciding which one to go with. As far as experience with the batteries goes, I like Anton Bauers line and use them personally. I have heard great things about Beebob, but have no on set experience with them. I've recently been looking at the new Core SWX Helix 150s.

@Dustin Supencheck, Google sheets is fine. Excel or Numbers also works. Anything that allows you to neatly list your gear and its full cost. Make sure to keep it constantly updated. You should get in the habit of asking production to supply you a certificate of insurance (like they would for any gear house) with you or your company as the payee. You send them a copy of the itemized list you created and they send you a certificate. You should also try and get your own steadicam insurance policy. Do a weekly rate (or daily if you're a day player and your rig comes and goes with you), but it's totally up to you how you negotiate. If your rig is on a production, it can't be used on another whether or not it's working, so make sure you get paid for it. Also, if you dig around in the forum you'll find that a lot of productions will put up a fight on paying a loan out for the kit rental (If you want the kit paid directly to you on your normal pay stub then disregard this bit). I think there is also some grey area on production insurance and your kit being paid as a box rental, so make sure you do your research there. Hopefully someone else will chime in, but I believe some of this has been discussed before under the Legal/Business Practice section.

In order to reply in the for sale section or wanted section you need to be a premium member. It’s pinned somewhere in the forum sections (I’m sorry I can’t remember which) and I think on the desktop site it’s in the side banner somewhere. It’s a one time fee paid via paypal.