Maxwel Fisher

Whew! 

Do you know if this is the final design they've shipped you or is this one the more recent prototype designs?

Taj,

You could try reaching out to Nikita John Creagh. He has been incredibly active in the steadicam FB group and might have clearer information on the exact stage of finalization for the Level. I don't know his exact role within MKV, but seems to have a lot of information.

The person who came to Atlanta, was actively trying to figure out ways to repair MKV's old reputation, but if the folks managing the company aren't also doing that, it's all for nothing. There definitely is an intentional move to get away from MKV's old ways, but they clearly aren't all on the same page.

Hey Taj,

Haven't bought one, but when they were here in Atlanta two weeks ago, the MKV rep said the Level should be out soon, but didn't give an exact date. They were still finalizing designs (shortening the overall length, maybe adding a mechanical lock, changing the guide bearings) is what we were told and as well as trying to implement some potential last minute software changes based on feedback from operators.

Hope you get an update soon from them. Feels like old business practices resurfacing.

Hi Dakota,

Sounds like your sled build is very bottom heavy so you're having to move the gimbal farther down to post to balance out. I would try shortening the length of your sled if you have it at all extended first, then slowly move your gimbal back up to find the drop time you're looking for. If your sled is completely compact, add more weight up top or less on the bottom.

Technically yes, the closer the gimbal is to your top stage, the more control you have. However, I've seen plenty of operators who fly with their gimbal lower on the post to achieve their drop time and their shots look incredible.

Christian, "half moon" connector is the word you're looking for and these should be Lemo 2B 303 connectors as Jame's flies a Cinelive Pro sled.

Hi Marc, by vertical inconsistencies you mean headroom, correct? 

A couple things to try, you can re-trim your fore and aft adjustment to set the headroom you need for the shot to avoid having to do any unwanted tilting or booming of the rig. Try to keep a consistent pace and distance if you are leading or following a subject. Detuning the arm will make it less "springy"which will help, but will in turn require you having to work a little more to hold the lens height. Soften your steps as much as possible. There are a number of great posts in the forum about moving very slowly with the rig.

Antlers when setup properly can help with tilt inertia giving you a bit more control, but as Benjamin said, practice is going to be your best friend over time.

Still on the hunt for a XCS docking station if anyone has one they no longer want or need.

Cheers!

Modeled up a mount similar to the aluminum ones that use to be available for anyone that still uses a Cinetronic 2 and level, but never had the pro mount. Pass through 4-40 holes mount the bracket to the sled at the lower pro post connector and modeled 4-40 holes to mount the level to the bracket.

Printed with 100% infill it is a nice solid bracket. Took about 25min to print on a MK3s Prusa.

Cinetronic Level Mount v2.stl

Apex Cinema Gear acquired Pro and all of its intellectual property. Since Apex is based out of LA they are moving Pro, as it now exists back to LA. Jack and Michelle have passed the torch and are no longer associated with the company (as I understand it) except as legacy business owners.

If you look at the new pro website it now includes, but clearly defines products by both Apex and Pro - https://gpiprosystems.com

I don't have the money or the work to justify buying this, but something about this build, it's really well done and I admire time and detail to make something really nice and solid!!

Best of luck with the sale Haris!

Hi Christopher,

For starters what sled are you flying? More than likely the culprit is still in the c stand. Any movement in the stand, no matter how small is going to transfer to the sled and cause it to sway while balancing. This is why combo stands are recommended since they are far less prone to bowing.

You can also try getting your sled roughed in on the c stand and then suit up and finish trimming it out. I know a few operators who do this. Myself included sometimes. 

If it's not the stand, it could be play in the top stage, bottom stage, batteries, an off center gimbal or cables shifting around.

Blaine,

Apologies for the delayed reply. Was talking to Greg the other day and he mentioned your sled arriving. Not sure what the issue will ultimately be. I've personally never heard of the XCS gimbal needing to be shimmed, but I do know that the way a carbon fiber post is wound can impact its rigidity. Please keep me updated on Greg's prognosis. 

As for my sled, I ultimately worked with Greg on designing and machining a mount that mated with the Pro CinemaHD upper J-box and connected to the XCS bayonet mount (https://steadicamforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=33641). This gave a wider and more solid mounting platform, both on the post side, but also on the junction box side. In eliminating the three conical pins, it also eliminated any chance for a "three legged stool" scenario which I believe was part of my problem. If one of those pins rounds out or seats differently than the others, you end up with one side shorter than the other and that can cause movement in the top stage. It's why Greg designed his Pro/XCS hybrid mount with four pins.

Since changing out the post mount, I've not had any issues with statically balancing the sled. I had also sent my Donkey Box to be serviced at Pro just to be on the safe side.

I've never cleaned mine (haven't needed to yet) and while I know they likely aren't, the bearings in the pro arm post section remind me of skate bearings. I would guess a little soak in some carb cleaner, a good blow out and either triflow or some bones speed cream would do the trick. Essentially whatever you use for your gimbal. Once you pop them out, you should be able to remove one side of the bearing cover with a needle or a small point to work the old stuff out and the new stuff in.

Among other things, the two biggest benefits are, that it allows you to post in the marketplace section to buy or sell gear and it removes the webpage timeout if you try to load a new page in under fifteen seconds.

You're also supporting the maintenance of the forum so that it continues to be available to all of us.
 

Here is a copy and paste from Tim's pinned post at the top of forum support section that you should have read for the start:
As a Premium Member you'll receive:

• Create posts in the Marketplace
• 100MB of upload storage
• Unlimited Personal Messaging
• Edit your posts for up to 24 hours
• Extended Post Signature (up to 5 lines & 2 links)
• Cover photo on your Profile page
• Post highlighting 
• Create Polls
• Warm fuzzy feeling & forum cred!

$2000/per spring

Still offering a payment plan. Buyer pays shipping. 

Selling two barely used black springs for the GPI Pro arms. They are the older model windowed version.

They function the same as the newer design, you just have a numbered window that you use to tune the spring allowing for, in my opinion, an easier way to fine tune your adjustments.

Located in Atlanta. Asking $2200/per spring, but meant to be sold as a pair. If Pro's pricing on their website is accurate, you're saving $1100 per spring.

Given the state of the industry, I'm also willing to do a payment plan.

I have two old Pro or what might be Bob DeRose plates for sale.

Asking $125/each obo.
 

@Jeongwoo Noh, it shouldn't be any issue. You might get some small scuffs on the anodize, but if I remember correctly, that's the way they are meant to be installed. Just butt it right up again the bottom of the top stage. Don't over tighten it though.

Hey Adam, the reason why is because you must be a premium member in order to post things for sale in the marketplace here. 

Additionally, being a premium member doesn't time you out for several seconds if you try to load another page or search too quickly.

I do have these that I got from Charles recently.

1_Steadicam Model 1 brochure.pdf 1_Steadicam Model 1 brochure.pdf 2_Steadicam Model III brochure.pdf 3_Steadicam Model IIIA brochure.pdf 4_Steadicam EFP brochure.pdf

Hi Mathis,

Dig through the picture and history archives section of this forum. You’ll find a lot there. 

Additionally, I’m not sure how many old heads still hang out here. There are however two big Steadicam groups on Facebook. If you can get the attention of Charles Papert or Erwin Landau or Peter Abraham, I think those three have some of the most extensive archives for what you’re looking for. 

Best of luck!

Considering that top stage is at least 32 years old, you might be better off buying either a Betz topstage or the DB3S (that optical support makes). Both have a rod mount option and will be more rigid than the diving board that you're trying to use. Even a well loved DB3 with the diving board will be less prone to vibration than the DB1. Consider too that the DB1 at this point I believe is unserviceable because the parts don't exist.

Alternatively, you could have something machined that clamps to the post, but you lose space as far as how high you can move your gimbal to the upper jbox. Talk to Jarrett Morgan here in Atlanta. If you need something custom, he's your guy. Also flies with the volt and has made some volt brain components that he already makes.

Hey Ed,

While I don't own anything made by Tiffen, the two most likely culprits for bumps, gitters and vibration are usually play in the topstage or something loose on the sled in general that is being transferred to the camera. Could also be the arm if you're overloading it.

Upgrading the arm to something more robust like the G50X could certainly help and there is a member in the forum with one for sale for around $5500. I don't know if the Zephyr vest is compatible with larger arms so that would be something to look into first. You should also be able to find a used Pro, Klassen, Exo or Xspine for around $4000. For something more old school Peter Abraham I believe still have Larry McConkey's old vest for sale for $1500. You'd have a comfortable vest there with an incredible amount of history. Plus it's for sale in Jersey. 

Hope this helps.

We generally try to tune the arm so both sections move as close to in unison as possible as we lift the rig up or push the rig down.

Personally for my arm, I tune it so both sections are angled down slightly, but at the end of the day, the answer will really always be "whatever works best for you". 

Perhaps do the dynamic balance without the external wiring running down the post. Then run your video line down the post and secure it as tight as possible to reduce any effect it might have on throwing that dynamic balance off.

Also, unless you're planning to do some intense whip pans, I wouldn't worry too much about dynamic balance.