Jerry Holway

FYI, the new M2 gimbal has the encoder ring hidden and fixed inside (!) to protect it.

BTW, the "hole at wrong angle" issue has been fixed.

whoever told you that... well, it helps with static balance, in that case, fore-aft balance... A rig in dynamic balance is also in static balance, so it doesn't hurt to do that, but just watch Chris's video, it's all you need.

Grayson - If the post size for the M2 is the same as the M1, what makes them different other than length options? Is the two stage post any lighter in weight, etc? Standard post diameter is 1.58, like the U2, Masters, Clippers, Shadow, etc. Posts are not indexed, lighter than M1's, and monitor rod spacing is at 60mm, not 100 mm like M1. Only comes in a 2 section post, but in two lengths, "standard" similar to Shadow and shorter. Exact lengths TBD. Monitor bracket at post slightly lighter than M1's and easier to use. Or you can use M1's 2 or 3 section post & monitor bracket, your choice. The new gimbals work with spacers for different diameter posts; all are the same with the encoder ring inside if equipped with the Volt. Can the V Lock release safety be retrofitted to the M1? I run my battery box upside down and the release is dangerous. Yes, it's a non-destructive add on. I made a bunch of prototype "protectors," 3D printed, that I (and others) glued directly to existing V-mount battery mounts. I'll sell a set for cheap (I made a bag of extras) and postage if anyone wants set. BTW, I made these for IDX V mounts, some other brands I know are different and don't have the same shaped release button. Overall is the M2 (in a similar configuration) lighter than the M1? Much lighter (no exact number yet, still shaving off excess material) Any chance that the motor strength can be raised from the M1 Volt maximum? Just curious. No - the same motors & power as the M1. Hope this helps...

The M2 has one new small thing for V-mount users - protection from the old "bump and release."

My list of features on the M2 follows - Alas, the final specs for weight and min and max lengths, and of course, the pricing, are not done. Some post-NAB tweaks are in the works, and I believe Tiffen will announce it all officially by CineGear, if not sooner. M2 highlights Overall Lightweight, stiff, modular, 12/24v + 3rdbattery, integral Volt electronics, Volt ready gimbal, +/– tilt head, 3x HDSDI lines. G-50X companion sled. Modularity Stage, base, and posts are fully interchangeable with M1 components, both mechanically and electronically. Stage features Very low profile Large size, longer dovetail plate, updated hole pattern Tool-free dovetail plate lock and release, identical to M1 Integral Volt “brain” electronics inside stage (optional feature) 3x HDSDI ports, 2x Lemo power ports, tally connector, 2x P-taps +/– 10 degree tilt head Post systems Standard 2 post system Shorter 2 post system Also available with M1’s 2 and 3-stage post systems Gimbal High precision bearings Volt ready Integrated Volt encoder ring Tool-free post clamp Handle for .500, .625, or .740 arm posts Monitor mount to center post Tool-free, solid design Clamp lever for height adjustment Inserts for different post sizes 15mm rods on 60mm centers Monitor Universal monitor mount Choice of many monitors Base 3x HDSDI connectors 2x Power port Monitor port Low profile Integral 3rdbattery mount (optional) Dovetail base (optional) Cheeseplate base (optional) Battery mount 2x IDX or AB (IDX mount now with battery release protectors) Switchable 12/24 volts 3rd battery on/off switch 12 volt P-taps on each battery USB power tap

To Deke and all who try this. One reason the dock supplied with the M1V is designed the way it is - is to avoid the potential of the balancing pin getting in the way of docking. It's quite possible, when the pin is slightly pulled out, that the motors and electronics can hit the balancing stud and break. So be careful!

Please find someone to help you. "Great" is a relative term, and not seeing your footsteps is a basic skill to be learned. You should not have shoulder pain, it's an indication of doing something not quite correctly. I applaud your eagerness and determination, but really hope you don't do more before getting some help.

Please have someone help you. If it's a very light rig, you probably won't damage anything, but you will instantly learn bad habits and likely be frustrated because you don't know how to balance the sled or balance the sled to you, how to stand, walk, what hand does what, etc.... If it's a full-sized rig, you could strain some muscles - not fun at all. Go slowly. Read the Steadicam Operators Handbook. But certainly have someone who does know what they are doing help you. Good luck!

Interesting!

Tiffen is working on a rain cover - I've seen a clever prototype but I can't test it as I don't own a Volt (yet!) - I'm going to give it to an op to test soon. I'll post the results when I know more.

The docking bracket helps when using the Volt in several ways, including preventing the small possibility of injury to the cables, and preventing a much bigger possibility of injury to the Volt motors and motor electronics. Also, the dock is padded, so there is less shock on the gimbal bearings when docking. A related minor concern, but still an advantage - no little bits of anodized aluminum get ground off and potentially drop into your gimbal. The gimbal is always at the right height for docking, regardless of how long or short the sled might be. The gimbal can get closer to the stage than with a traditional dock. The primary balancing stud is low and close to the stand center, so there is very little lifting off the dock for balancing (less effort!) and nothing to move around for balancing. Nothing slides or interferes with docking. The over-centers locking lever is easy to use and it is clearly engaged or not, and there is a secondary lock on the OC lever.

Oops- forgot... with long modes (high or low), a tilt head preserves that precious lens height, and keeps the opposite end of the sled from hitting things behind you. I learned that last thing the hard way, on my very first shot with a superpost without a tilt head...

An integral tilt stage (like on the Tiffen rigs) can be used to preserve dynamic balance when the lens is pointed up or down, which, of course makes operating easier. Trimming to aim the stage up or down with a "flat" or non-tilting stage will always take the rig out of dynamic balance. The more you tilt, the more out of balance you will be. A vertical post is easier to operate with than a non-vertical one. Again, it's a matter of degree. A tilt stage is really useful in low mode, when one is often looking up – it's hard to tilt up when the arm is boomed way down. BTW, a non-integral, an add-on tilt stage may give you re-balancing problems (big c.g. shift) or create viewing problems with wide angle lenses (i.e., seeing your MDR...), as well as increase the minimum lens to gimbal distance.

Guido - The electronics need a cover; a small "skirt" overt the gimbal does the trick nicely. Low temps should not be a problem. It's been tried in pouring rain (Kentucky Derby for one).