Jerry Holway

Just checking if you are attempting to adjust it while the arm is unloaded, then that definitely won't work. However, if you are carrying a load and have the spring roughly at 90 degrees to the lift adjuster and it is jammed, then something bad has happened and it should go back in for repairs (alas). Someone trying to adjust the arm when unloaded could cause such a problem. Email Joe Wilbur at Tiffen. jwilbur@tiffen.com

Scott- the post and the arcs are pinned and glued together. If there's shifting, I'd send the two back to Burbank for a re-pinning and gluing - if that's possible. Contact Joe Wilbur JWilbur@tiffen.com

The big plan is to make the M1-V as widely available as possible. Older sleds like Archer or Ultra (original and 2), Clippers, Shadows, etc. will all be able to have their gimbals modified to accept the M1-V. Final details and prototypes should show up at NAB. Patience!

Yes, just wait for NAB.

Answered on the Facebook forum, but yes, vest can be flipped. A bit more work on the waist panels (if it is really set fully goofy) but it only takes 10 to 15 minutes for the full flip, which allows the socket block to be set at its lowest. A temporary flip (just flipping the socket block) takes about 1 minutes or less.

It's good to have the ability to zoom in - really test your skills. I suggest you get a small video camera that records digitally (do they even sell tape cameras anymore) so it is easy to play back. Also test your work on the biggest screen you own.

The only thing that is frustrating is knowing that there is no more - or no less - to really understanding dynamic balance. The math originally written by Ed DiGuilio's brother, Arnold, even explains co-planar sleds.... and sleds with the monitor lower than the battery!

"Ive read a lot about dynamic balance, but i never saw people getting their rig in static balance without a camera on top. Isnt that the best way to archieve dynamic balance?" Absolutely not! Either read the book or the primer, both readily available. Or see Fawcett's video.

Just one thing; RE arm post diameter - there already exists an adapter for 5/8ths to .740 (a sleeve) which comes standard with the slanted F-bracket. Also, it's easy enough to have 5/8ths posts with .740 ends made. I'm sure someone makes these...

No, knob adjusts length of a crankshaft, which moves spring termination point as arm is boomed up and down. Smooths response and alters iso-elastic characteristics.

From the Tiffen website: The G-70x is the third release of Tiffen’s G-Series arms. The revolutionary, patented Geo spring geometry optimizes performance throughout its lifting range. It tames high/low arm travel with adjustable-length crankshafts that dynamically rock the spring termination as the arm is boomed up or down. Powered by coaxial titanium spring sets, the G-70x arm smoothly carries any load from 13 to 70 pounds (5.8 to 32 kg). The all new bearing performance enhancements on the G-70x arm makes even the slowest camera moves ultra smooth.

M1's gimbal post is 1.75. Some of the 1.5" posts are specified at a slightly smaller diameter. There are manufacturer's tolerances to consider, too.

I suggest she try either a used Compact Master Series or Compact Ultra vest, or a new Zephyr vest as Chris suggests. All these choices will fit well and easily handle the weight.

While hanging off the balancing post, it should be still. So either there is wind blowing on the rig, or someone is moving the stand. It can't generate a force on its own. When you are operating, you are moving, so you must learn how to prevent the swaying. The issue occurs with all Steadicams. It's a consequence of how we balance the rigs - slightly bottom heavy - so the sled behaves like a pendulum.

There should be plenty of info and images and videos later today!

Garrett, Steve Wagner, the rest of the Tiffen team, and I are looking forward to seeing friends at CineGear. We’ve got a new technological marvel to demonstrate, the M1V.

G-50X and G-70X arms are very iso (and adjustably so) regardless of the weight carried. (12-50+ and 13-70+ pounds/no tools). Best choice, IMHO. Look for good used arms if new price is an issue. "3 spring" arms always get less iso and more reactive the less weight they carry. It's physics and can't be avoided. Master Series arms had consistent performance but often had sticky bearings... good arm if kept clean. PRO arm with multiple canisters also a good choice.

Yes, of course.

Yes, it applies to all "3 spring" arms like the Model I II, III, IIIa, EFP and a host of others like the Luna arm. Arms like the PRO or the Master Series or the G-series have a different arrangement of springs and attachments so that they are more iso and more consistent in their performance regardless of the weight the arm is carrying. All these arms make, and have made, great shots...

Take your operating hand off the gimbal for a test. Does the panning stop? If so, it's your grip is too tight. You can also try to increase the sled's pan inertia by adding more weights but that will have other balance consequences. If the test shows the sled pans by itself, then there is likely an issue with the gimbal being sticky - NG - and you need to contact Tiffen. A video of the effect would be useful.

James- it sounds like you have a good gimbal with minimal friction, as it should be. Here's how to balance faster: Instead of waiting for it to come to rest, put it level with your operating hand, make it still, and then release it gently. If the sled moves off level, then tweak the balance. The faster it moves, the more out of balance you are.

clamp is of no value. Pin is everything

Yes, the Master (and IIIa and II arms with the gold springs) lifts about 65lbs max, 37 or so minimum. If you subtract the weight of the sled and batts, you get a different "payload" number. Change the sled and batts and you get a different payload. The Master Series Cine had a 7+ lb monitor and very heavy NiCad batteries (3 lbs? - I forget). Now monitors are in the 1.5 pound range, Li-ion batts so much lighter, so the payload can be much more.

As I said before, you must have a pin through the gimbal handle if you use an F or J bracket. A clamp won't hold and is not safe. Nor are the set screws in a J-bracket like the original Master Series one... see the book!

BTW, it's a Master Series vest.... Nice rig.