Alec Jarnagin SOC

"I also like changing the spring tension while wearing it, often adjusting as I walk to the start mark." I'm sure Larry is aware of this, but to clarify - as it is a common misconception with the PRO arm, you can adjust it while wearing it and walking to one - you just use an Allen wrench (which can be stored on your vest when you get to one; I do this all the time).

Larry, I cannot resit... eight years later... so much for your impeccable timing!

Absolutely Steve! Indeed, we do.

"Wave requires you to pin-lock, power off, reset, power on when high to low reset" Slight correction here. When switching form hi to low mode (or vice versa) with the Wave, you only need to lock the blue knob, make your switch and then unlock. You only need to reset the power if you forget to lock it while switching as in this case, the unit shuts down on its own.

Stephen, hope you're well. Try a shoe repair person as they may be able to replace the zipper (they have the heavy duty sewing machines), Otherwise: http://www.fikenca.com/steadi-cam-bags/ I forget the exact history but I believe this was the person who used to make the bags for Modular 51???? Anyway, you'll see they have a similar lineup

" And biggest of all, relax! I even get called out on this by DPs I’ve worked with for a long time. If I’m tense, that tends to telegraph into the shot, and sometimes I just need to take a deep breath and shake out my hands and try again." Excellent advice for all operating - not just Steadicam. I have found that 99% of the time I'm struggling with a shot (Steadicam, dolly, hand held, etc), take a deep breath and slow it all down a bit. Long lens Steadicam can be great fun, but I still hate long lens wide shots! With a long lens close up, you really zone into the subject and get to play. Long lens wide shots are so much harder for me. I recall one on "The Americans" where I was forced to track an actor head to toe perpendicularly though the woods on the other side of a small creek and I cursed the fibers of my being! Should have been a dolly shot, but no time (and the grips would not have been pleased) but at that distance, the slightest shift in headroom is so obvious (I wonder how a Volt would have helped that).

I've been doing Steadicam for 25+ years which is over half my life, yet every time I visit a workshop, I'm humbled and inspired by the talent as well as inevitably learning something new! It's like a second honeymoon with this marvelous instrument and career. I highly recommend the workshops.

It's to protect the operator (and the camera) from being influenced by the wind.

Guys, this is from Jan 2014!

Love this!

Paulius, Derek, thanks for the kind words. The app is simply called Omega Control. I messaged Ruben and asked he chime in here so let’s hope he does so.

Derek, Headed off to work, but quickly.... I used the Omega AR a few years ago for an Ok Go Video. Read about it here: https://www.alecjarnagin.com/ok-go/ SINCE we did this, Ruben Sluijter developed an App that controls the rotation of the AR Omega in all sorts of fabulous ways while keeping the stabilization working. I used it with great success (on a dolly) on the Netflix film "See You Yesterday." Take good care, Alec Jarnagin, SOC

I dare say, look at Volt versus Wave. The Trinity is an entirely different beast with an entirely different purpose in life. More importantly, start with your left pinky (right pinky if you're goofy foot) and learn Steadicam as it was originally created - an exceptional instrument with a magnificently simple mechanical design.

The white plastic.... Original Model 1 vest manufactured by Cinema Products in the late 1970s. The black plastic waist piece would be a replacement likely made by Peter Abraham. If not modified, there should be "jumper straps" in the back that connect the lower section to the upper section for more support. Amazingly, they got so much right about this vest - the GPI PRO vest has many of the same features. I used a Model 1 vest for years (and still own it as backup) until I bought a PRO vest.

It's worth noting, they are made of compatible parts (the "M" stands for "modular") so you can swap parts or custom build a sled. The M1 has a 1.75" center post (two or three stage) whereas the M2 has a 1.58" post.

Works fine here.

NO. The "1" stands for one axis stabilization.... At least until they come out with a "2" in which case the "1" stands for obsolete ;)-

Very strange! Call Jack at Pro. I'm really curious about this.

Claus, what is it doing? I believe the only change they made was adding another thread some years back. Does it mate, but just not tighten enough? If so, you can put a small spacer in.

James, who made them? Also, "3pin limo(pro sled)" Which size 3-Pin Lemo? (The standard changed from the original Pro 1/2/3/Cine when they switched to the new CineLive electronics). Thank you!

Buzz, the plate was originally designed for the XCS sled which has no side to side trim on the top (for those who don't know, the fine trim is done on the bottom - this allows for an incredibly concrete and stable platform at the top to to the camera). Because there is no gearing up top, the camera platform is much lower profile (and lighter) than other sleds so the small height increase of this plate is trivial. Overall, even when using this plate, I find my XCS sled to be very short with any camera build as it was designed to have all the weight at the bottom. As for using this plate in the Wave? Sadly, because of the way the Wave is designed, you have to raise the camera a little to get the CG higher and closer to the nodal point. Betz sells the Wave Rider for this, but it is way too big, heavy and tall. This plate is a good compromise. Furthermore, you need to balance the camera side to side in the Wave and this plate is the easiest way to do that. I like the Wave very much for some applications, but I'd never put a 35mm camera or anything that heavy it it. These cameras have so much inertia anyway, I see much less need for using it.

I'm going to add to Tom's comment about Wave set up. You need to set your preferences for when and how forcefully the Wave kicks in as you tilt. This is not a daily setup, rather a one time thing. I set mine up with the help of Tom and Larry McConkey and have never needed to redo it. As for balancing within the Wave, I use an XCS side-to-side plate (pictured here) to raise the CG of the camera and to balance side-to-side. Super quick and with a little thought on AKS placement, I usually don't even need to add the little weights Tom recommends (although I have them and keep them in the case). The Volt is a fascinating beast and I do believe may end up being the future of Steadicam, but I too had some issues with finessing tilts when I had a loaner for a week. This combined with the fact that they don't have a 2" version of their gimbal or the ability to install it on an XCS gimbal are deal breakers for me. I love the XCS post and gimbal. The very design of the XCS sled is great for the Wave as the weight distribution puts all the weight at the bottom of the sled allowing one to use the Wave without a long post. Its also worth noting that the Ultimate 2 is four pounds lighter than an M1 which also happens to be the weight of a Wave.

Thanks Paul! I'm going to to out our age here but Paul and I have been doing business with each other for over twenty years (25+). He has always been a great Allie to the Steadicam community. Another question, for people using cameras such as the Alexa LF or the Panavision DXL-2, would you still recommend the XT-90s over the Titons? The Titon seems a far better price point for most applications, but some of us need to be prepared for all sorts of high draw setups.

Paul, Is there a similar trade in for the more expensive XT-90? For those keeping score at home, the XT-90 is 99 Watt hours and is capable of 12 AMPS continual draw (versus the Titon which is 92 Watt hours with a 10AMP draw). Comes with a heftier price tag of course (I bought eight of them recently and they are fabulous). Same size and weight as the Titon. https://www.antonbauer.com/en/products/comparison?totalResults=6&categoryName=Gold Mount Batteries&productsSku=8675-0131&productsSku=8675-0125

Brett, as I understood it, Jack only made a few of them in the first run of 10. My arm is S/N 3. It was meant to be a special addition. How many camo ones did he make? I took it because I was building a lightweight sled at the time. I have since sold the sled but still have the arm which I keep in case I want to get into gimbal work or to use with my seldom used Twister. I may sell it one of these days because I've literally onlly used it a few times but I just love it and keep thinking I'll find more use for it! (Obviously, I have a Titan arm too).