Jump to content

Alec Jarnagin SOC

Moderators
  • Posts

    1,849
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    74

Everything posted by Alec Jarnagin SOC

  1. I, too, have always been too lazy to get remote cables made, but I don't feel as bad knowing that Jeff is doing the same thing. With ENG style lenses (servos built in) it is so easy to start the camera yourself because there is the convenient button on the lens, assuming you operate non-goofy foot. With Cine lenses and primes becoming more popular though, I've thought about getting start/stop cables made though, as now the port is freed up on the camera and it becomes a pain to start the camera. Way too east to hit the white balance or black balance on the front of the camera while searching for the run button located there.
  2. Larry, that reminds me.... About six or seven years ago, I was scheduled to work on a documentary (where they obviously don't have the grip truck, etc.) on Icelandic horses. By coincidence I was in a rental house before this job prepping for something else when I discovered they had a set of old baby legs for sale (dirt cheap). I bought them, went home, found a large piece of wood, drilled holes in it for the tripod's spiked feet to be inserted into, and added rings for ratchet strap hooks. Between the holes and the straps, it was very securely attached to the board. Called production and told them to bring a HUGE pile of sand bags and we'd be all set. Indeed we were. Plunked the thing dow inside a pick up truck and off we went. Very easy solution, gave me a good lens hight for horses, and I didn't have to worry about hanging off the vehicle when we didn't have a platoon of grips looking after my safety. I have since used this very set up in a utility golf car on another documentary. Mitch, thanks for pointing out Jayson was the DP - I was actually wondering if he was the grip. Jayson, just make sure your op has a Garfield mount to begin with! Good luck.
  3. Larry Not at all surprised to hear that Walter has explored that avenue. While I have only met him once, he is obviously a very thorough man (fyi, it was in NYC a number of years back, when he first came to demo the vest - he had just come from showing you on the set of... don't remember, oh well). My point was as much academic as anything - it seems many are convinced this vest works because the arm attaches to the back. While I am no physicist (that would be my father - he has a PhD in the subject), it seemed to me that ultimately it boils down to your mass and the rigs mass and the relation between the two. The key to the vest is its rigidity. Practically speaking, I am finally giving serious thought to purchasing a DSD/Klassen vest this year (which is it now? - another thing that worries me), but I'm just trying to make sure I understand it as well as possible. I'm still very nervous about spending $9000 and ending up with a tingle in my leg, as this is a problem I do not have at the moment. Is the general consensus, once you have a proper fit, this is not an issue? Erwin, yes, the ability to slide the arm up and down to alter lens height is a very nice thing. Also, I'm very eager to try a vest with an air bladder, as none of the ones I've used have had this feature. As I mentioned, Jamie's almost fit. I suspect if it had had an air bladder, it would have done the trick. It seems like a very good feature.
  4. Very interesting. As I've stated before, I've never been as uncomfortable in a vest, as I have been will an ill-fitting DSD. Recently, I tried Jamie's, which offered me my closest fitting yet - close enough to finally appreciate the merits of the system first hand (although with lots of the "tingle" in the leg, as it was still a little too big and pushing down too much). Anyway, I did find myself wondering why not attach the socket block to the front? The long, expensive carbon fiber arm just moves the socket block to the front. Bare with me for a moment here, guys. It seems to me, that the biggest difference in design is the shape and rigidity of said design, not the attachment point. Your entire back is enclosed with a rigid piece, and your entire waist is enclosed with a rigid structure as well. By moving the socket block to the front, you should yield the same results, but with a much slimmer profile - at least in theory. As said before, with a traditional front mounted vest, you are attaching to a front plate that pulls forward, placing stress on your lower back (and other parts). This is in part because there is no material of any substantial nature covering your lower back. This is why the famed "jumper" straps make such a large difference (if you are using a front mounted vest without these, I highly recommend adding them). Imagine taking a traditional front mounted vest and wearing it backwards (obviously, don't try this), yet you were somehow able to still attach the arm to your front side. Now you'd find the larger portion of the vest pushing into your back. It is the same with a DSD. The DSD offers lumbar support that pushes into your lower back. If the arm is attached to the front of the vest, it will still cause that lumbar to push into your lower back, as the entire vest is very rigid. The addition of a carbon fiber arm is simply connecting your socket block to your back via a rigid arm. If the socket block were mounted to the front of the vest, it would still be connected to your back via a rigid carbon fiber shell. I'm not sure if I'm explaining this right, but in a nutshell you have two large masses. You and the rig. The distance between these two masses is all that really matters. Right?
  5. When is you shoot? What part of the world? I just got off the phone with Greg and I know he has the plates in stock - I just got one for my D-Box II. Anyway, he'd probably be able to get it in FedEx today. Worth a try. As far as it working with D-Box IIs? It depends on the individual D-box II. I can make the plate slip with extreme pressure from my hand (I've seen others that slip with almost no pressure). I then added a piece of adhesive mounted anti-slip rubber to the D-box clamp. Can't make it slip anymore. True test is in the field though. Have done one job with an SRIII and so far so good, but this is a light set up (although I did have a Zoom and three motors on there, as well a RCU, transmitter, etc.). Would like to check it out with a 535B though. Oh, btw, it would seem that I'm not relying on the anti-skip properties as much as adding thickness to the clamp. I first tried camera tape and had the same positive results, but I thought the rubber would hold up much longer (and it is thicker too boot).
  6. Adam, Mine is an older one designed to interface with an EFP junction box. Not owning an EFP, I use a jumper cable for all lenses. Thanks though.
  7. One more thing. Still would love to be able to jump to the first unread post regardless of length of strand, but in the meantime - a useful tip: you can skip to the last post in a strand and scroll up to the first one you have not read. Simply click on "last post by" over to the right. Clicking the name of the person however brings you to their profile.
  8. I agree with Jim regarding the "first unread post feature." Can this be added to all the "View New Posts" strands rather that just the ones over one page long? I assume people realize this is the quickest way to see new posts - one click and they are all there. I actually like having the old posts just a scroll up in case you want to double check something. In the old forum, this was impossible. I think this forum is much better once you spend the time to learn the features. It lets you post pictures and diagrams right in your message rather than having to host them elsewhere. I agree that an email feature would be nice, but keep in mind that these pictures would be lost unless they were included as attachments. This is why in the final months of the old forum, I nixed my email subscription and began direct visits to the forum. For those without high speed internet, using a phone, etc (for me, if I'm in a hotel with a lap top) it is MUCH better to be able to do it through email though. Flash sessions (a quick sign, down load of email, sign off) are really a must when one is stuck with dial up. Regarding spell check. I use a Mac with OS X so spell check is built into all applications. Otherwise, just cut and paste from any word processor. I didn't really like the message area on the old forum anyway for creating posts. On the whole, I like this new site. Hidden email addresses are a must. I just added forsale@floatingcamera.com for a recent classified ad that I posted only here and the SOA site. Sure enough, I've begun receiving junk mail to it, Ugh.
  9. Peter, Yes, there was no zoom speed control on the lens - I always look. I think a lot of it has to do with the backwards direction of the control. I should rework it so it is normal - again, when mounted on a gimbal pushing the rocker away zooms you out and towards you zooms you back in. Impossible to deal with. I suspect the previous owner was goofy foot and wired it to be this way to make it correct for him. Now I remember the last time I played with it, I mounted it backwards which helped a lot, but makes it hard to reach the zoom control as it it physically farther from your thumb. I use an ergo handle so the curve of the J-7 does not match the gimbal anyway. One thing this does cure though is continually rolling the camera by mistake. When mounted normally, it would engage the roll button every-time I'd rest the rig on my shoulder. This could be cured with a small Delrin donut around the switch so it can not get pushed so easily. Basically, I have to reinvent this one to make it work. Do you have the schematics? Oh, what is the rocker switch on the side supposed to do? As far as I can tell, mine does nothing at all. I remember getting my hopes up that it would reverse the travel but no such luck. Thanks, Peter. We need to get together for lunch one day anyway. Perhaps its time I drive out to your place and see some snow covered woods anyway. Best, Alec
  10. Peter, No offense, but smooth... J-7? Can't say I've ever tried a $7 bottle of scotch, but I'd imagine it about as smooth as a J-7. I've found this controller all but useless. Bought a used one one a few years back, used it a few times, and have not touched it since. Maybe it is mine or the lenses it was attached to, but it was sloppy, way too fast, and jerky. To add insult to injury, it was wired backwards (presumably easy enough to fix, but never bothered) so your zoom in was in fact a zoom out. Yuk, yuk, yuk.
  11. Erwin, I know that you can't have all the possibilities in a poll, but I'd like to see model 1/2 users as its own categories, as I (and others) are adamant that they took a huge step backward when moving to the 3. If anything ever happened to my precious model 1 vest, I'd be looking at the PRO vest or DSD (and I suppose I'd take a look at the new Ultra). Thanks
  12. Matias, Yes, the Trimpacs are too wide - in the back position, but not the front. Right now I only use them in the front (away from the knees) as a jumper battery for 24 Volts. This is why I may switch to Performers in case I want them in the back too. I've noticed you are using the smaller battery in the back. Is your rig wired backwards? On most Jerry Rigs, the back battery takes the bulk of the load (in 24V) and the front one is just to boost to 24V. This si why I'd love a heavy duty battery like a Hytron 120 in back. Best.
  13. Last year I had an Anton Bauer salesman tell me that using the Performers for film work voids the warranty! Also true for the Hytron 50s. Clearly they don't think they are up for the task. I use a Jerry battery base as well and I'm currently using the Propac 14/Trimpac combo. With the Trimpacs having a ton of milage on them, I will soon replace them. I am fairly certain I will get the Performers though as at $150 each, they are almost disposable in terms of Steadicam gear and they do seem to last three years or so from what others tell me. Has anyone used the new Hytron 120s? Anton Bauer claims that the Hytron 100/120 will do anything a Propac will do amperage wise. Two guys here in NYC are currently using the Hytron 100/Performer combination (one with a Jerry Rig, the other with a Pro Light). They say it has worked well in all weather situations so I'm giving serious thought to this approach.
  14. Test... Hire Dave.... Test... Hire Dave.... Test... oh wait, we don't hire each other... test... Just teasing Dave (refuse to use smily faces though as I'm still in search of the perfect way to insert sarcasm into print without said crutches). Peace, Alec
  15. Yeah. One hell of a sexy arm... too bad. Peter, I got to see your Mini now with all the mods you've done. (I believe he was making a similar arm and a custom carbon fiber vest?)
  16. Erwin, In fairness to Glidecam, the specs on socket blocks seem to be... well, less than exact. While I've never witnessed it, I've heard stories of some arms not fitting some vests. A friend bought a PRO vest to discover his 3a arm would not fit. He ended up having to put his old socket block on the vest. These measurements are probably considered less critical than many on a Steadicam, and in most cases there is never a problem, but if both mating pieces are off in opposite directions.....
  17. Peter, A 1.5? post on a mini! Admit it. You?re back in the game. Enjoy, Alec
  18. It is amazing though, as it is indeed the young guys that complain about gear the most. They have never seen a Seitz/WRC-3, so they just don?t understand setting end points. If anything ever pushes me into a Preston, it will be the auto-calibration. I?m continually amazed at how every now and then, you?ll find an otherwise intelligent person who just can?t wrap their brain around a BFD. Luckily this is rarely a problem and most guys in New York like the Bartech and with an M-1, I think it turns lenses far faster than the Arri system. Of course when it comes to hiring ACs, I remember who rolls with the punches and who doesn?t. Recently, I was on a job and my trusty Bartech Focus unit went down (hand unit) and the 1st was required to pull focus from the Iris slider. The funny thing here is that he is my regular 1st and back in ?99 when I bought the BFD package, I asked him if he wanted a rotary and a slider or could I get two rotary units (better for me, as it provides better back up). He was adamant that I get one of each because pulling focus and iris simultaneously would be a serious chore with two rotary units. So, I listened to him (along with a few other ACs I polled) and bought one of both. A fact I quickly reminded him of while he was pulling focus from the slider unit. His response, ?man, sometimes I wish your memory wasn?t so good.? Oh, FYI, Jim fixed (and shipped back) the BFD the same day he received it.
  19. (1) Hill Gorelock with (2) docking rings (for 1.5" post) for sale. I'm selling the Gorelock by itself, so you'll need a docking bracket to mate it with. It fits any of the Telescoping CP/Tiffen docking brackets or the Hill Docking bracket (www.steadimoves.com/parts.html). Cost New: $570 ($485 plus $85 for second docking ring). Selling for: $450. Contact: Alec Jarnagin forsale@floatingcamera.com
×
×
  • Create New...