Jeff Muhlstock SOC

Hey Jason, just a few little things you might already know: You may need to change the "battery type" in the menus. Sometimes it is necessary to fool the camera when running power from a cable. This camera will send a warning and sometimes shut down even if you have battery power left. Try changing the battery type setting, if this happens. Also, the obvious, get your self an "ICON" down converter, if you don?t have a component HD monitor. Be sure you have the proper power cables for it. Good luck, fun camera, but gets a bit heavy with all the stuff on it. Jeff

Brian, lots of quirks, too many to list here, I suggest searching the sight , there should be a lot on this subject. For starters, have good batteries, very power hungry, Change the battery type in the camera menus. Have a downconverter handy, I wouldnt be to sure that HDSDI will run through your sled. You might just need to run better coax outside the rig. Overall, Varicam is a wonderfull camera, have fun. Jeff

Hey Marc, One last tid bit...you may have all ready got this info from Transvideo, but if not: The spirit level mount that they use on the ultra bright units, is capable of mounting several different ways (I think 4). The reason is, most of there monitors are not balanced for a center mount. The bulk of the LCD?s electronics and connectors are all on one side, making them way off balance. There mount gives you the option of off centering the monitor to give a better dynamic balance. The screen will be off center, but the weight distribution will be even. It might seem odd at first, but I think you will find, a flatter pan. Also you have the option of flipping the screen upside down to give a slightly brighter image. You should definitely have a discussion with Noel or Maryann with Transvideo if you go this route. Good luck, Jeff

Radio Shack, for sure. Its a standard power cable.

Yes Peter, They are readily available through some of the NY rental houses, I know LVR has em for one. They come with copper and without. I own the ones with copper, the size difference is next to nothing, so I perfer to have the power option. Very thin very flexy..... I prototyped with Mohawk cable 7 or 8 years ago. Jeff

Hi Bryan, Firstly, I am sorry I dont like to talk rate in here. But the choice to work solo, is yours, not the producers. You just need to learn the word "No". I understand the need to make a living, I have a family to support. But for me, I would just rather make more and work a little less often, then make less and work more often. respectfully, Jeff

I'm not going to go down this road again, most of you have read and know my position on this subject. But I will ask this, is anyone watching TV anymore? I can?t believe the amount of soft focus Steadicam shots on the air, on major network shows. Is it that know one cares anymore? Apparently, focus, doesn?t seem to mater... Integrity is gone; it?s all about the money. Pretty sad. You guys who work solo are all about making money, not making shots. I guess thats what this business has become. Call me crazy, I still want to make art. I will not compromise this issue. Jeff

Hey Brant, I have had this mod for about 5 years, never a problem. I know of 3 other ops, that have it as well, its a simple low tech solution to an age old problem. I would hope that Hill will implement the mod into future gorelocks. If machined properly, this is perfectly safe. respectfully , Jeff

Very smooth response, easy feathering, variable speed control. this is the best zoom control yet. As I have said, I own, and have used just about all of them, from J-7's to Preston. This little devil is great. My only complaint, is the cable. I will fix this problem soon. I would rather see a much thinner cable that can easily be replaced if broken. Connectors on the unit, so we can use a "jumper" cable. Jeff

Hi Marc, I think I used thin screws that mated to the existing threads of the Zoe housing. Very simple, 2 screws in place of the long screws that came with the unit. I used recessed type screws so they would sink into the rubber on the inside. And that is an XCS Ergo handle, pretty wide. Again, there are several different size options in the microphone clamping world. Pretty cheep too. Take note that my handle has a grip material on it, this my effect the "grip" or "hold" of this trick. Good luck Jeff

Here is my docking bracket mod. Be carefull, this could be catastrophic if not done carefully. Jeff

Here it is guys, I have struggled this problem for years, trying every zoom control out there, with a variety of mods. Very low tech but this simple solution works great for me. These mic clamps come in a variety of types and sizes, pick the one that works best for your gimble handle. have fun, Jeff

Yes, I did a very simple mod to my Gorelock. You can remove the fork and file a channel that the lower set pin meets, I filed a 180 degree groove that alows my fork to tilt. What's important here, is the groove must be smooth and deep enough for the lower set screw to hold the fork in and allow a smooth tilt (some sanding is required). I have safety marks on the fork stud that assures me that nothing is sliding out, periodic checking of the lower safety pin is important as well. I changed out the side set pin that holds the fork, with a Kipp handle, and milled a small set position on the forks post at the 90 degree mark. This handle locks the tilt in any desired position. I will try to post some photos of this mod. It works great for chip charts and the emergency lock off shots. Back in 1994, I worked with CBS on some custom docking stands that where able to tilt and pan for "on air" moves, we used them for the the Olympic prime time shows with Jim Nantz. They where fantastic, but a bit large and over built. I have always felt that it would be priceless to have this function in a dock. As I am not interested in manufacturing, I have some very specific ideas as to how this can be done to the Hill/gorelock device. Photos to come, Jeff

I would still like to pursue a pressure sensitive control at a future date but I didn't want to hold things up any longer. Jim, Please dont waste your time with pressure sensitive stuff, this system just is not very good for Steadicam, the analog feel of a rocker is much better if this unit is to mounted on a gimbal-yoke. We use to much force with the zoom hand while controling boom height and the rocker thing is easier to feather. In general, I dont think the pressure sensitive units, such as microforce, have good feel. I should send you a photo of the mod I made for the Zoe, I mount with a rubber microphone clamp instead of the supplied long screws. This give a nice clean feel, easy on and off, no silp. You know my order is in, I cant wait. Jeff

I am setting up my back-up rig as a rental, I am getting tired of looking at it sit in the case. This would be available in the New York area to qualified operators only (must have some formal training). This is a full system with the limitation of an EFP arm. I have not set a rate yet, but I will be fair. Highly modified EFP: PRO gimbal PRO D-box2 EFP Arm Master Vest Transvideo Monitor Lots of video extras This is a great little rig, and has done very well for me over the years. She's lonely and need's to come out and play. Jeff

Hey Denny, I have a loaded EFP that was my primary rig for 15 years. I now own all new stuff, and I am looking to either rent or sell my older equipment. My rig consists of : Modified EFP with fore/aft AB battery / 4 Hytron 100s 2 battery / set up for 24 volt operation PRO gimbal PRO D-Box 2 EFP Arm Master Vest or EFP Vest return video and tally system for multi camera lots more..... I would love to find a new operator that I feel comfortable enough to send on jobs with this gear. Someone wo isnt ready to buy, but wants to work. Give me a call if interested. Jeff

If you stop anything for 4 months and get back into it hard it will hurt! Common sense here. It sounds like you have a fit problem too. I played golf last week for the first time in a few months and my shoulder was sore, I am simply rusty, no equipment problems. Strech more, warm bath, advil... Jeff

Very nice work. May I suggest you add tally lights on your transmitter side as well. Most of us pull off the viewfinder of video cameras, thus loosing a front tally for talent. respectfully, Jeff

Bebob will gladly send you a wire diagram. I use this thing as well. I strongly feel that this control should have a jack not a cable, so that we can use thin jumpers that we will always have backups for. Fred made me a cable that I planed on working into this idea, just never did it. If the unit had a conector, we would have the choice of what ever type of wire that fit our needs. BLUETOOTH.... Jeff

This is a very cool device. Well done.... May I recommend that you consider a simple photo sensor relay on your sender half, so that it will work with any camera's existing tally light. There are too many eye piece connector types out there. I think it would be a more marketable item. I know Jim B is listening, Bluetooth zoom would be incredible. Or even better, just a Bluetooth relay for any zoom control.... A small sender at the zoom controller, and receiver at the lens. Like a dream. Jeff

I now own both the Titan and a Modulus. I will say that they are both hit or miss. I have been in spots of NYC that the Tian works better, and other spots when I am better off with the modulus. The point is, they both are far from perfect. Dont expect to turn it on anywhere and have perfect video. I am finding it helpfull to have both devices. Wireless is really based on the enviornment you are in, it is always different. Even the most expensive RF units are not flawless. RF is RF, never perfect. Jeff

Hey Chris, I have a potential project that has interest in the AR as well (starting in May) I have given some thought about a "shared" AR with other ops. Since the device will not be an every day item it might make sense to go in on a joint venture with a few fellows. Food for thought. Jeff

Welcome to my hell! You simply have to let the Director know what your limits are and when you need to hang it up. Don' try to be a hero. You will shorten your career. 2 years ago I ended up with severe shoulder surgery because of this kind of work. Needless to say, I have become much smarter in the type of work I except, the people I will work for, and the way I work. As mentioned many times before in here, keep in shape, strech, fluids, etc. You are running marathons in this world. Insist on lengthy breaks, a full song, or segment (usually there are some that are "not for air"). You must speak up, or you will pay dearly. And yes, charge alot. In some cases they will kill you to the point of needing 2 days to recover. Good luck Jeff

Tony, Chances are there is something loose. This vibration can happen on any Steadicam with any camera, all it takes is a little slop in something on the rig or camera. I would closely examine the battery connection (both on the camera and your sled), I have seen it with full size Anton B's, there is a slight bit of play that then causes a high end vibration when moving fast. If the battery can move at all when it is connected, this might cause your problem. Any play at all is no good. Shim it with some gaffer tape if needed. Rigidity is essential. This is the first thing I would look at. I have also seen some play in top stages (since other camera's seem fine, this is probably not the trouble), for instance, the PRO D-box has an adjustment for its side to side and fore/aft tension. If this is left to loose, it creates play and thus, shake. I have seen many shots on the big screen that have this vibration. Check it all, matte box, base plate, batteries, etc. All must be totally rigid and free of play. Good luck, Jeff

Jay, nobody is beating anyone up in here, just some opinions and advice, take it or leave it. If you post in here, expect to get responses. Its all good. Follow your instincts and do your own thing, is my advice. Peace. Jeff